Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 2

Lee,
What screen are you using in your setup and what size?

Thanks,
Scott

I didn't get into testing of anamorphics due to time, but though the Prismasonic CAN work at 1.85, with the recessed lens on the JVC it probably won't. The UH480 and ISCO III should no problem (UH380 not sure on).

Keep us posted on what you find.

Generally I have been recommending at least 2x with the new RSX series because of the recessed lens, but hopefully we'll find it works for short throws as well.

Jason, from your review,

What kind of things did you do? I'm gonna help tweak one of these and it would be nice to have a guideline.
Thanks.
Scott

Naughty nanny. Sounds like she needs a spanking.

Anssi at Prismasonic seemed quite convinced the the 5000R would work perfectly at 1.9 on the RS10/20. I don't know about the older Prsimasonic units with smaller input apertures.

The earlier Prismasonic lenses are smaller. My 1500FE works perfectly with the JVC HD1. This PJ as we all know has the lens protruding slightly from the front of the PJ body. This is primarily to allow access to the manual zoom and focus controls.

The RS20 lens is recessed but (I am guessing here) it should be possible to move the 1500 prismasonic right up close to the front of the PJ and have the beam fit well.

My throw ratio is 2.3-2.4 approx.

I don't like to guess when deciding to buy -

any others with thoughts on this?

For that throw it will work. But you cannot back the lens up to the projector lens due to the recess.

Thanks Jason.
What I meant to say was to place the Prismasonic as close as possible to the front casing of the PJ so as to minimize the distance between the PJ lens and anamorphic lens.

It is not so much that I am concerned about it working at that throw ratio, it already does that well for me with the HD1/RS1.

The issue here is that the lens of the RS20 is recessed compared to the HD1, therefore potentially increasing the distance between the PJ lens and prismasonic.
Jason's comments are reassuring though.

Hmmm. Received my RS10 today. Just got it unpacked and was going to test in on a table first. Outside of the case is beautiful! Plugged it in, and pressed the power button. Lens cover opened, excitement, then..... Nothing.... Warning light on top of unit is on with lamp light flashing 3 times. Quickly checked the instruction manual - that error code indicates lamp cover is open. Of course lamp cover is closed and screwed in tightly. Tried plugging it in again a few times, same result. Did not appear to be any damage to outer or inner shipping box. But this is not an auspicious start.

Off to remove the lamp cover and see what things look like.


UPDATE: Removed the lamp cover - all looked fine inside, so screwed it back on, plugged it in, and pressed power. Green power light on, lamp on, no warning lights. Problem - solved. Back to the projector - more later.

Thanks Lee.

Looks like another PJ upgrade on the way for me!

First Impressions:

The RS10 is my entrance into the projector world, replacing a very temporary Optoma HD65. First of all, I must say that little Optoma projector looked pretty good to my eyes. However, the RS10 is a noticeable improvement. The image is sharper, with considerably more contrast and depth. I am going to need others help to figure out the "proper" settings for the projector, but I initially set the RS10 on Normal Lamp Mode, Cinema 1, 6500K, Iris 3, gamma Normal. I may have to play with those settings a bit, as light areas on the screen were almost a bit too bright. My screen is a 120" 2.37 with a throw ratio of 1.6. All I can say is the image is incredibly good and engaging.

I mentioned my concern with the UH380 and the RS10 at my throw distance. I have never set up an anamorphic lens before, and as I will be ceiling mounting the RS10 once my Chief mount and new Panamorph plate arrives, I wasn't sure I would learn anything from trying it while the projector was table mounted. But I figured I would give it a try. I was about 6 inches in front of where the ceiling mount would have been, so I actually at a throw ratio of 1.55. I added the vertical stretch mode, and tried to hand hold the lens (that thing is heavy). I eventually think I got it in a pretty good position, as it seemed to fill the screen perfectly. I could not see any vignetting, and in fact the lens was not even right up against the projector. My only criticism with the lens, was that the picture didn't seem quite as sharp. It may be my imagination, or it could certainly be trying to hold the lens by hand. Does the focus need to be readjusted with the lens in front? Anyway, it seems like it works, even at a bare minimum throw ratio. I am way outside the "sweet" spot of the UH380, so that my also explain the slight decrease in sharpness, with a lens to screen distance of only less than 11 feet.

So, initial tests with Panamorph lens seem encouraging at short throw ratios. Projector looks good, looking forward to getting setting tips from those far more experienced than myself. So far, pleased with my purchase.

Just noticed that the guys in the UK have just released a video review http://www.avforums.com/tv/index.php

That is indeed impressive performance. Was that at max throw?

For those with screen sizes of 110" diag and below, 400 lumens is plenty IMO, especially if you have some gain such as 1.2 or 1.3.

I plan to run the RS20 at about 300 lumens on my 106" diag Firehawk, producing about 12fL, in order to eek out as much CR as possible, without trading too much brightness (though I may decide to go even lower like 200 lumens if it means 50,000+:1 CR...).

Years ago I would have instead chosen to max out brightness more - aiming for more like 20-25fL. But I've come to learn that is not necessary at all to enjoy my pj and I'd rather have the inky blacks.

For instance I am running at about 8.5fL (about 200 lumens) on my RS1 with aged bulb (about 1000 hours) and it still looks PLENTY bright. In fact the other night I was watching Sin City on Blu-ray and I thought to myself that portions of the movie looked too bright!

Bottom line is that I encourage people to aim for 12fL or perhaps lower, even if you can get a lot more out of it, and enjoy the best blacks possible. Then again I do my viewing is a pitch dark room so if you are watching with some ambient light then that's another story - but that's what the adjustable iris is for!

Jason, I posted this question to you elsewhere, but I think this is the better location. If any of you are replacing previous RS versions with the RS10, your observation would also be appreciated.

Are you seeing any significant improvement in intra-scene/ansi contrast?

I think in a pitch black room you can get away with as low as 9 ftlamberts but if it is just black (can't see the screen) i would say 12 to 16

A given...but that still will keep the lens about 1"+ away...if you don't plan to move the lens at all (if you do you'd need more like 1.5"). In any event, that is a decent amount to have to work with.

Update:

Played around with the UH380 lens again. Actually works extremely well. I did not see any vignetting. I seemed to detect a very slight decrease in sharpness with the lens in place, although that could be due to my short screen to lens distance (only 10.6 feet). Would that be expected with that short a distance and the Panamorph lens or do I need to work on focus and adjustment more? Or is that just a fact of the UH380 vs UH480?

In any case, the picture is incredible. My first projector and in a CIH setup, everything works as planned. So Panamorph UH380 anamorphic lens confirmed working with RS10 as low as a 1.57 throw. Outstanding. Now I just need to get the whole operation ceiling mounted...

Note that my UH380 was modified by Panamorph at purchase as the JVCs had a problem with ghosting. No such problem with the modified UH380 and the RS10.

What is the formula to figure out throw ratio? The front of my Panamorph UH480 will be 15ft from the screen. Will be using the rs20.

It is projector-screen distance divided by the 16:9 width. The UH480 should work fine with just about any projector. You just want the throw close to 2.0 to minimize pincushion, but the lens is plenty big.

Wow, the RS10 is looking like a sleeper and better than even an RS2. Keeping my fingers crossed that the uniformity, etc. on the RS20 is as good as the RS10's

For those of you with RS10s (or HD750s for that matter) can you please run a check to see if the issue with color fringing with horizontal movement, which was present with the RS1 and RS2, is still an issue on these new JVC pjs?

Best way to check for it is to watch the zebra stripes on a referee and he runs down the field, or to watch the scrolling text in a new ticker. If the issue is still present you will see some red fringing as the referrer/sticker moves horizontally.

This is my only gripe with the RS1 and I sure hope they resolved it. I'm not too optimistic though since I think I recall Mark reporting that JVC had not changed something or other that was thought to be the root cause of the issue - not sure though.

Jason, can you try out the gamma tweak gregr and Alan tried for the RS2 to see if it makes for a more 3D-like image?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=337

How do you know which gamma is which on the RS10?