Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 19

CATBIRD- I have the same issue when I pass through my Cary processor. If I connect my Pioneer 05 directly to the projector, I get 12bit processing. It's still possible that an older HDMI cable can't handle the added bandwidth with audio added to the mix when passing through the processor. I plan to try an HDMI 1.3 compliant cable to see if that solves the problem but if you try one before I do, please report back on your results. I don't suspect the Cary since others with a similar configuration are able to pass through 12bit going through the Cary.

I would think the 876 should be able to pass 12-bit with no problems. I'm using a 605 and I have no problems passing 12-bit from my PS3. I'm also using a 35ft series 1 Blue Jeans Cable.

Sounds like further evidence it could be his (and my) cable.

Anyone here know of any good deals on a RS10/350 ?
I'm between it and a KURO (RS2) at closeout. Willing to pay a bit more for the 10/350.

Sent you a PM.

since projectorreviews section on the RS10/HD350 versus competition is not up yet I was wondering in terms of sharpness, how does it compare to LCDs such as Epson 6500/7500, Sanyo Z3000, or the Pana. 3000.
the review did mention that it wasn't as sharp as the sharpest 1080p projectors but if the "(controls were) Dialed up, the sharpness and detail enhancement bring the JVC closer still, to the IN83" ... my question is how sharp is the JVC? thanks!

Check out the competitors section of the RS20 review. Art comments about both the RS10 & RS20 Vs. there competition.






http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/...ompetitors.php

RS10/RS20 VS Epson 6500UB/7500UB

Bottom line: Similar placement flexibility, sharpness, general features, but the JVC is a bit more film-like than the Epson (at least the 6500UB, as I haven't worked with the 7500UB which can be more finely calibrated). While the Epson's black level performance is excellent, the JVC is simply the best. Also, since the Epsons rely on a dynamic iris, when the iris is working hardest on very dark scenes, it compresses the brightest areas slightly, so the JVC has more dynamic range at both ends of the brightness spectrum on dark scenes.

I just ordered mine Monday! Ha Ha! I can't wait. If anyone wants to know the great price I paid, and who from P.M. me. I've been using a BenQ PE-8700 (720 Progressive) and now it not only needs a lamp, but the color wheel is all messed up, so I thought I would spring for this one. I love this site, because just like when I bought the 8700, I can learn tons of stuff about it, before I ever open the box.

On the JVC site, I can't get the download manual link to work. Is there another link to the manual, so I can start reading up on it?

Dave,

Here is the link for the HD350 manual:
http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/01/14/47.PDF

It should be very similar to the RS10.

Fantastic. Thankyou!

HD-350 GRAYWOLF 2 120" clip taken with my Canon SX1 directly off screen......click it to watch....full HD 1920x1080 if photobucket have not spoiled it....

It's small and low rez.

Upload the original video to filefront.

When Art refers to "below average brightness" he's talking about the projector being in brightess mode such as Dynamic for watching sports. For movie watching in a theater enviornment he says "one of the brightest in best mode".

Hi Guys,

I'm close to ordering an RS10/HD350 - just shopping for prices right now. I went through first choosing the Panasonic 3000, Sony HW10, and Epson 6500, but all opinions point to the RS10/HD350 as worthy of the additional expense. And I'm the type that would rather just buy something to enjoy for quite a while and quit doing research.

This will be my first front projector (currently using a 50" Samsung DLP RPTV). It will be in a non-light controlled living room with plenty of windows. So it will only be used at night with all the lights turned off which gets my room pretty dark.

The question is, am I crazy for considering a temporary pull-down screen for this projector? I'm asking this for two reasons: 1. Cost (the RS10/HD350 is already more than I had planned to spend), and 2. I am living in a rented apartment for another 18 months or so before beginning construction of our new house which will have a dedicated theater room so I don't want to spend a ton for a screen now.

The wall in question is white and has a high ceiling with no adjacent walls near the screen's location. I've been told if I place the projector at the planned ~12' away on a projector stand (behind the viewers) that I should consider a 110" matte white 1.0 gain (16x9) screen. Content will be DVD/Blu-Ray only via PS3 HDMI.

I'd appreciate any advice.

Thanks.

- Kam

P.S. One prominent internet dealer insisted the Panasonic 3000 was just as good as the JVC (which they didn't carry but could special order) and if I saw them side by side, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Now I may not have the best eyesight but surely from everything I've read the JVC thoroughly trounces the Panasonic. I'm not trying to start a comparison war but I really felt the dealer was doing a disservice with such a claim.

In your room with ambient light you may want to look at the high power screen. Lots of threads on this but if you are going to mount your PJ low and your seating is not too wide it coulld be a good option for you

If it's only for a few months, I would try the wall first. A cheap pulldown isn't going to give you much more to be honest.

As for the Panasoni, Projector Reviews compared the JVC to the Panasonic and Epson. He claims the JVC can't be beat.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/dla-rs20/index.php

I'm back to looking at a HD350 again due to a recent (expensive) screen change and finding my AE3000 not bright enough when calibrated to this 112" wide 2.35:1 screen, plus I'd still like deeper blacks.

I read Cine4home's review of production models and compared their HD350 results at minimum zoom (which would be my setup) to their results for the AE3000 in Cinema 1 mode at minimum zoom, but I'm worried that there isn't that much difference. I'd be going from 360 lumens to a maximum of 480 lumens (HD350 iris full, high lamp, minimum zoom, 15,000:1 contrast). This would be a 33% increase, which I'm not sure would be that big of an improvement as I've found playing with an ND2 filter (50% change) using a brighter, less accurate mode on my AE3000 mode is noticable, but not as big a difference as I'd hoped. Are there brighter modes available than the 'High Lamp D65' quoted by Cine4home that gave 480 and 700 lumens at min and max zoom respectively?

I also wondered if anyone has managed to get into the service menu of the HD350 and can the iris settings be changed from the user menu options of three settings? I realise this may be a moot point given I may well be looking at having to use the PJ in iris open mode anyway, but it might be useful to be able to trim it down a little when the lamp is new, as part of my problem could be that I'm not getting the full 360 lumens from my 130 hour old lamp.

I can just about justify changing to the HD350 and taking a hit on my 4 month old AE3000, but given all the CMS issues I couldn't spend almost double the cost to change on getting a HD750. I may later be able to get a secondhand Lumgen to help trim the colours of the HD350, so it just boils down to whether the HD350 would be bright enough once calibrated in my setup.

Just for info: My throw is 19' to a 112" wide 2.35:1 screen (equates to a 128" 16:9 diagonal from the point of view of zooming). The screen is supposed to be 1.5 gain, but if it really is (and assuming that my eye-one is measuring what my eyes seem to be telling me) I'm only getting 6fL once calibrated to D65, which means that my screen is really 0.6 gain, so something isn't quite right with the measuring/screen gain, but it gives me a reference.

I think I'm going to take my AE3000 into my local JVC dealer and demo the two together when set in the modes I'd be using them or at least from the same throw, but it might be a little subjective as if the HD350 isn't calibrated to D65 then it may well look brighter anyway. I don't suppose it would be practical to take my eye-one and laptop with me to measure the levels either, though in these tight finacial times, any help they could give me to assist with my choice might result in a sale.

Finally, it isn't possible to install the PJ any further forward than the back of the room as we have cables laid and wood floors.....I wouldn't 'get away' with a ceiling mounted PJ anyway!

Yes there is.. someone here shared that info. I thought it was a great find.

I should have done a search for 'service' in this thread as I found the answer. It seems that the three user iris settings can be changed to be anything from 1 to 16 as per the HD750, but only three settings can be accessed by the user menu (which is fair enough and probably a suitable compromise).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post15773991

I verified that this actually works. I changed all three iris positions to 1 and exited out of the service menu. When I changed the iris after that there was no change since all three saved positions were the same.

Thanks for that, nice to know it really does work. I'd be looking to setup two of the user positions to help match brightness for 16:9 and 2.35:1 (zoom method), so they would probably need to be fairly close compared to factory default settings.

What mount do you suggest for ceiling mounting ? (I need 30cm clearance from the ceiling)

I have the Chief mount and I think it's a very good mount.


Earl

ssak,

Chief RPAU Inverted LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount (Black):

http://www.chiefmfg.com/search_results.aspx?quick=rpa-u

Received my RS10 yesterday and all I can say is WOW! I'm upgrading from a Sony HS60 and I just can't believe the difference. This is truly one stunning projector especially for the price you can find it if you hunt around. I'm projecting onto a Da-Lite 119" High Power Cinema Contour and it honestly looks better than a 120" Kuro would. Very very happy customer

We just returned an Epson 6500UB due to excessive mis-convergence and rather than chance another one, upgraded to an RS10. First impressions after watching some HDTV, Madagascar on DVD (our 5 year old watched it 4 or 5 times) and Dark Knight on Bluray:
- The RS10 throws an excellent picture, definitely a step up overall from the 6500UB. The detail on Dark Knight was amazing.
- I left the iris open (setting 3). I found settings 1 and 2 too dark. Maybe its an acquired taste. So the 33,000:1 contrast ratio won't likely be experienced in our theater. Never mind, still a great picture.
- Not nearly as bright as the 6500UB on any setting, but bright enough in our light controlled room.
- Out of the box color is way more accurate than the Epson was. The Epson would have required a calibration. The RS10 is pretty good already. Neither are close to the Samsung H710 we used for the past 3 years. If only it had been 1080p or its successors were affordable....
- I think I preferred the Epson remote with its direct access buttons to the various inputs. With the RS10 to move from HDMI 2 to HDMI 1 you have to cycle through all the inputs, which it does slowly. That's a pain.
- The powered zoom, focus and shift are really cool.
- For those who care about aesthetics, the RS10 is beautiful in comparison to the Epson.

After a few hours of viewing, I am very pleased with this projector and don't regret spending the extra dollars.

I was wondering if anyone who owns the RS10/350 and owns a 9G Pioneer plasma can comment on the differences. I'm a black level fanatic and am seriously considering this JVC ( I know the RS20 would be better but it's more than I want to spend). If I set the JVC close to maximum zoom and at the lowest iris setting will the brightness still be somewhat close to a calibrated 9G Pioneer?

Just curious. I'm hoping I can find someplace local to demo so that I can see for myself.

My Impressions of the JVC RS-10 Video Projector.

First I must describe exactly how I'm watching it to try to lend some perspective: The Screen is the DIY Parkland Plastics ver that I thought I discovered at a Menards. It's 7' diagonal 16:9. A few years back I rushed home to write about it here, but I found that there are a number of threads about it already. One thing that I did was to follow the advice of one poster here, who showed how painting the back of it with a certain silver latex paint actually increases the contrast, so I did that when I built it a few years back. The material is used for covering shower walls and stuff. It's as close to indestructible as you can get. I would THINK it is low gain. 1 to 1.1? It certainly has less sheen then many that I've seen in the stores - very close to flat white.

The throw distance is exactly 9' away, and my viewing distance is about 12 feet away. My field of vision is quite well filled up. My guess is that this would be brighter than many people who shoot 120" screen, and have the unit farther away. This might be an advantage for me, when I say how stunning it looks. The DVD unit is the Panasonic DMP-BD55. One reason that I selected that one is that it will play back my collection of DVD RAM disks, where hardly any other machine will do that. The up conversion of standard DVD's is excellent. The HDMI cable is a 6' Acoustic Research pro model.

Maybe its the smaller size of the screen, but using the original Avia test DVD I came up with the following settings:

After finding it on the Panny, I have it set for 24 frame/96 Hz, 12 bit color.
Lamp time at this writing 24 Hrs
Cinema 1
Contrast = 0
Brightness = 1
Color = -2 to -3 (on the Avia DVD -3 BARELY shows flicker on the saturation blocks
Tint = 0
Sharpness = 0 (and I am a sharpness fanatic!) This unit has all of the sharpness that you can imagine. I used to run the BenQ almost full out.
Color Temp = 6500K
Gamma Custom 1 = 2.4 - from people's opinions on this thread
Lens Aperture = 1
Lamp power = normal
Mask = off
My room is HLC - Hillbilly light controlled.
When the reviewers say that this unit is quite accurate out of the box, they aren't kidding.

"The Dark Knight," seemed really saturated, but I think most of that is do to the film, so I wound up turning the color down for it. Flesh tones seem to have that sunburned look to them on -2. Further, from scene to scene, sometims the flesh tones looked way over the top, such as Eric Roberts, and everybody in the courtroom. On other scenes, such as with Michael Caine, his face looked pale and pink. This certainly seems to me to be the different way that all of the scenes were shot. I felt like I couldn't get it right, because the producers never got it right.

Subjective stuff: So on Sat I watched, "The Dark Knight" (Blue-ray) and I'll tell you, I was just gassed. The makeup on the late, great Heath Ledger's face was so incredibly detailed. You could easily see where little tiny bits of makeup were starting to dry up, and flake off, as if you could walk up to him, and peel a chunk of it off with your fingernail. Morgan Freeman is one of my favorite actors, and for the first time I have to say there is a LOT going on with his face! LOL I felt like I could see the detail of it for the first time. People on this thread have mentioned an almost three dimensional quality to the look of this unit, and ITA with that. There were times when it looked like the images were one foot in front of the screen. Last night I watched, "The Worlds Fastest Indian" (Blue-ray) with Anthony Hopkins pursuing the motorcycle world speed record. (If there is any gear head in you, you will LOVE this film. ) It's a bright film with plenty of color when it's needed. The flesh tones looked real good, with the settings that I've described. To my relief, when I popped in, "Blue Crush," and moreover, "New York Minute" Kate Bosworth and the Olsen twins looked perfect!

I sit about 1/3 of the way from the screen in the theater. (I'll hardly be going there at all anymore) The other thing is that on this unit, what little, tiny screen door effect there is, I can't even see it until I'm about 3' from the screen. That means I'll be rearranging the furniture, and moving my chair up to about 6-7 feet away. That right there is a HUGE improvement over where I am now, because of the tech behind this unit. Another shocker is the dynamic range. There were times, while watching Batman, that I was loving the different levels of grays and blacks in a dark scene, then POW a bright scene would pop on, and it was almost scary. The RS10 draws you in, and it won't let go.

What I don't like: the response of the unit when changing inputs takes about 2-3 seconds each. You can't save the basic adjustments to 2-3 users etc. The remote is flimsy. and the thing that others have mentioned is the lack of proper color settings. Maybe somebody can help me here, but in the AVIA color decoder settings, which it doesn't look like we can adjust, it LOOKED like it needed about 1 to 1.5 steps up on blue, VERY hard to tell on green, and possibly even a bit more on red. The thing with me is, to get the color to match the surrounding gray area on that disk, I have to experiment back and forth. For instance with the PE8700, I could get it dialed in perfectly. On this, I wasn't able to adjust them any farther up. There is no "forth" only back. THAT, for the money is maddening. That totally, completely annoying thing said, the basic picture is just a knockout, but I would sure like to be able to get tat last 8% out of the color.

Anyway, I hope this gives a little help and perspective, and certainly if you're using the Parkland Screen, (FAT CHANCE!) now you know almost exactly how it will look. I think I will wind up having it calibrated. Thanks for all of the info on this thread, and I have a LOT more questions than answers.