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Easy Button End Table MAX 26.5" x 24" x 37.5" hwd

post #1 of 171
Thread Starter 
OK so this is it for this series, I got lucky and found an alternate layout that allows for ~1/3 increase in volume over the original.

Specs:
26.5" x 24" x 37.5" hwd
Volume 8'³/13827.5625"² before driver displacement
Port 3-2.5" x 7" total area >8" ID port
Tuning is as yet unverified, likely in the range of 10.5-14Hz

Use a 1.25" round over for the port, MLCS item #8659
The cheap pillows from WalMart will still be a good idea.









post #2 of 171
Is 20" long for p3 correct? it looks like it should be 21.25" and i would snap it to the lower left corner of the board so you could rip the entire board at 24.5 before making the final cuts.
post #3 of 171
Add a black granite top with integrated cupholders and you're good to go! LOL. As always, excellent work Dan. My endtables are all downfiring due to curious dogs who like to attack moving objects.
post #4 of 171
This is pretty much perfect for what I want. I am space limited(new sectional is big) and this fits exactly in the space I have. Would an IXL-18.2.2 plus BASH500 combo work well in this?
post #5 of 171
Dan,

That looks sweet too! Man you are amazing!

Seeing how I haven't been able to start the monster build you set out for me yet, should I look into 2 of these? The specs you show for this build, are those in the ballpark with the eD's (190) you suggested I get? Remember I'm running the ep2500 with the mic2200. Not to "flip flop" on your other build, but this may be easier for me to balance out the peaks and nulls in the room after the build. But please also keep in mind that I'm currently running 2 Polk Audio SRT subs in there too, so I am really shooting for the deep octaves because the SRT's seem to handle the rest pretty well.

I've got time. Still in the process of finishing the basement....., but just hate looking at these things sitting in their boxes like caged animals!

Mike
post #6 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

Is 20" long for p3 correct? it looks like it should be 21.25" and i would snap it to the lower left corner of the board so you could rip the entire board at 24.5 before making the final cuts.

Tim,
thanks for catching that, it's fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 View Post

Add a black granite top with integrated cupholders and you're good to go! LOL. As always, excellent work Dan. My endtables are all downfiring due to curious dogs who like to attack moving objects.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinn View Post

This is pretty much perfect for what I want. I am space limited(new sectional is big) and this fits exactly in the space I have. Would an IXL-18.2.2 plus BASH500 combo work well in this?

That sounds like a good combination, let me know if you build it and I'll get you the resistor values for modding the filter.
post #7 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

Dan,

That looks sweet too! Man you are amazing!

Seeing how I haven't been able to start the monster build you set out for me yet, should I look into 2 of these? The specs you show for this build, are those in the ballpark with the eD's (190) you suggested I get? Remember I'm running the ep2500 with the mic2200. Not to "flip flop" on your other build, but this may be easier for me to balance out the peaks and nulls in the room after the build. But please also keep in mind that I'm currently running 2 Polk Audio SRT subs in there too, so I am really shooting for the deep octaves because the SRT's seem to handle the rest pretty well.

I've got time. Still in the process of finishing the basement....., but just hate looking at these things sitting in their boxes like caged animals!

Mike

Mike,
you really will be better off with the bigger box, the 19Ov.2 likes it's space.
post #8 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

Mike,
you really will be better off with the bigger box, the 19Ov.2 likes it's space.


Ok. I'm on it! BTW. I don't mind the size of the box at all. In fact, with my basement not yet finished, I'm putting the sub in the plans. So if you suggest a bigger build, I'd be open to your ideas.


Mike
post #9 of 171
Cool. I've already found someone to build the box for me(I don't have the tools or the time or the skill to do what you guys do and since this is going to be in my living room I would like a nice finished product). I will order up the driver and amp right away as well.
I assume you mount the plate amp on the side?

Alternatively I can go with the Mal-X(once it's back in stock), would I notice a huge difference between the two? I built a sonosub with a tempest-X and have been quite happy with it.
post #10 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinn View Post

Cool. I've already found someone to build the box for me(I don't have the tools or the time or the skill to do what you guys do and since this is going to be in my living room I would like a nice finished product). I will order up the driver and amp right away as well.
I assume you mount the plate amp on the side?

Alternatively I can go with the Mal-X(once it's back in stock), would I notice a huge difference between the two? I built a sonosub with a tempest-X and have been quite happy with it.

Stinn,
I don't think I'd go for the driver upgrade so much as an amp upgrade, I've done some reading and the ICE module based plate amp eD sells should be an excelent match for the IXL-18.2.2 in this box. From what I've the read the ICE module has a filter at 10Hz, so your best shot may be the LT/1300.
post #11 of 171
Very cool, I'll definitely take that advice. So it's got a high pass filter at 10hz? Sorry if I misread, I'm tired.
For only roughly $100 more that seems like a good deal.
post #12 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinn View Post

Very cool, I'll definitely take that advice. So it's got a high pass filter at 10hz? Sorry if I misread, I'm tired.
For only roughly $100 more that seems like a good deal.

Not to slight eD on the filter, I found it in the B&O ICE module documentation. It's built into the module from B&O then Keiga integrates it into the final product. Thus eD would never have known.
post #13 of 171
Would it be a problem to narrow the box an inch? I remeasured and I have 25" between the couch and the wall where I want to put this. With the plate amp I figure I'm going to need some extra room for plugs on the side. If I narrow it should I also make it an inch taller? I have about 30" of height to play with.
post #14 of 171
Quote:


Would it be a problem to narrow the box an inch? I remeasured and I have 25" between the couch and the wall where I want to put this. With the plate amp I figure I'm going to need some extra room for plugs on the side. If I narrow it should I also make it an inch taller? I have about 30" of height to play with.

Just run the new volume numbers in WinISD to find out the port length.
post #15 of 171
Well if I decrease width by an inch and increase height by an inch the total volume should stay exactly the same, only difference is the port should become one inch longer.
I've tried to do stuff in unibox but I can't seem to figure it out. I'll try winISD and see if I can get any further. Since they are slot ports and not round, would I just calculate the volume of the port then translate it to an equal volume circle for the calculations?
Maybe this should be a new thread...
post #16 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinn View Post

Well if I decrease width by an inch and increase height by an inch the total volume should stay exactly the same, only difference is the port should become one inch longer.
I've tried to do stuff in unibox but I can't seem to figure it out. I'll try winISD and see if I can get any further. Since they are slot ports and not round, would I just calculate the volume of the port then translate it to an equal volume circle for the calculations?
Maybe this should be a new thread...

Stinn,
I think your proposed change WILL WORK. I'll make the changes to the drawings. If you want to start a build thread I can post the drawings and numbers over there, otherwise I'll just PM you. The LT/1300 will eat up a sizable chunk of volume as it has a plastic box covering the components, I'd ask eD if it is easily removable. IIRC Alex has posted pics of the internals of the LT/1300, I just don't remember where
post #17 of 171
Done: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1094560

You are the coolest Dan.
Could I get away with the size loss on the amp with a bunch of stuffing? I'll email them about removing the cover as well.
post #18 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinn View Post

Done: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1094560

You are the coolest Dan.
Could I get away with the size loss on the amp with a bunch of stuffing? I'll email them about removing the cover as well.

I wouldn't build any End Table box and not use some pillows for stuffing.
post #19 of 171
Yay! Better and bigger! I guess the Maelstrom would mate well with this box?
post #20 of 171
Thread Starter 
8'³ & >8"id port
I hope so
post #21 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

8'³ & >8"id port
I hope so

Hehe, but seriously. Would there be a problem, or should I go with the previous design?
post #22 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post

Hehe, but seriously. Would there be a problem, or should I go with the previous design?

The bigger box is definately worth building
post #23 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

The bigger box is definately worth building

I'm building it as I'm writing this.

Well, I'm assembling the two sealed Tempest-X boxes first, then getting it on with the Maelstrom box. Thanks for the drawings, Dan!

I just hope the guy sawed correctly..
post #24 of 171
Anyone else building this?

It seems that I'll get getting my Mael-X in April...
post #25 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post

It seems that I'll get getting my Mael-X in April...

Sucks...did you talk to Kevin? We're you on "the list" of those that were slated to get drivers? I'm starting to wonder if I should start considering another driver...

Jason
post #26 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post

Anyone else building this?

It seems that I'll get getting my Mael-X in April...

Fackamoto,

April?...is that for real? When was it ordered? I was getting ready to order one but don't want to wait that long.

Regards,

Dennis
post #27 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonColeman View Post

Sucks...did you talk to Kevin? We're you on "the list" of those that were slated to get drivers? I'm starting to wonder if I should start considering another driver...

Jason

I ordered mine from StreamingAudio.se, the (only) retailer in Europe. So I have not spoken to Kevin directly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djarchow View Post

Fackamoto,

April?...is that for real? When was it ordered? I was getting ready to order one but don't want to wait that long.

Regards,

Dennis

It was ordered in October. Remember, I'm in Europe and I ordered mine from StreamingAudio.se, I don't know how it (or when) it ordered the batch from Kevin.

I know, it sucks big time.
post #28 of 171
Dan,

Those dimension are perfect for me.
I am planning to put a Maelstrom-X in it and a ed LT1300 plate amp.
I will go to home depot tomorow and buy the mdf sheet as per your drawing.
anything I should know before ?
is the 1.25 round is required for the port?

I won't buy the plate amp now but will power it with my sherwood 2x250 W RMS for a month.
then I will buy the plate amp next month.

I also don't understand why the top and back are 23" and not 24"
post #29 of 171
Thread Starter 
Smoke,
taking into consideration the price of the LT1300 being up where it is and the hi-pass filter in the amp being of the non adjustable variety, I would recommend the EP2500 and a MIC2200 for the same money. Also, I would not do this without the 1.25" round over.
post #30 of 171
I can use a ep 2500 but it must set at the same location as the sub .
My problem is that I already pulled 2 RCA wires and I did not pull any extra wire for speakers.
therefore the amps must set at the same place as the sub.
I heard that the ep 2500 is noisy.

Is a plate amp as bad as this.
I can have room for an amp on the back of the subs.

The subs will set between two sofas like those one

[url="http://www.afwonline.com/ic280frm.asp?PRODNO=A-BRAZ-A&HID_SID=169328139&COMBO1=2078&ProdDesc=ARMLESS%20CHR%202TONE-BROWN/LINEN"/URL]
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Easy Button End Table MAX 26.5" x 24" x 37.5" hwd