Easy Button End Table MAX 26.5" x 24" x 37.5" hwd - Page 2

exactly and the idea came as 5 sofas cannot fit on the width of the room. This is why the End max table must be 24~25" wide

Yes i undestand your point about the plat amp inside.
as far as the direction you mean I should have the speaker facing the wall?
How far?

sorry but what means YMMV?
I may able to turn it 180 facing the wall but the max I can go will be 1'.
so it will face the room and be 22' from the next wall.
as far as the behringer can it be mounted vertically and hide behind the subs???

google is your friend.... for forum talk...

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=YMMV

"Specs:
Port 3-2.5" x 7" total area >8" ID port "

I'm trying to understand how to calculate a the dimensions for a slotted port. Does this mean that the surface area of the slotted port is equivalent to the surface area of an ID 8" port (of what length)? Can someone please show a simple comparative example of a round port eg. 6 inch inner diameter x 10 in length port is equivalent to what dimensioned slotted port and how you come up with these dimensions. Thanks so much.

Darren

I guess, I still am looking for more clarification. Dan, I don't quite follow. Perhaps I can learn by making a calculation below. Can someone please tell me if this is correct and if not please tell me how to do it correctly:

Bottom slot port inner area: 22.5 x 36 x 2.5=2025 cu in
Back slot port inner area: 22.5x 20 x 2.5=1125 cu in
Top slot port area22.5x24.5x2.5=1531.25 cu in
Total area with slat supports not subtracted=4681.25 cu in

Based on this slot port volume the equivalent volume in an 8 in diam port would give a port length of about 9.65 inches.

Therefore if I were building a cylindrical ported sub with the same volume as this sub, I would use an 8 in diam x 9.65 inch port and the tuning should be about the same.

"You can not successfully replicate the tuning of this box with a straight tubular port. The bends, their radius's, and port dividers all impart there own resistive properties that affect the final acoustical mass and it's dampening."

Sorry, I got it wrong the first time. I'm just trying to understand. 1. So, it is surface area that is calculated and totaled. 2. If one can not successfully replicate the tubular port to slot port tuning, how is it done? Is there a formula or a plug in calculator that one can use? The reason I ask is firstly to understand how to do it, secondly, to adapt your design to a different driver (AV15H), that I'm sure will necessitate some dimensional changes.

Thanks for the help.

This May be a stupid question but does anyone have a litst of drivers that would work well with this enclosure. I love the look of a slotted port. I have heard awesome things about the Mal-X. Would this be a good driver? Anyone started this project and have some pics?

After not getting a clear answer or at least not understanding the answers because of my lack of knowledge, I kept looking around for some sort of clearer explanation/info on the subject. I believe I found something. For those interested, I think this web page answers the question I tried asking in different ways. Basically how to calculate the slot port dimension.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/misc/portcal.htm

Thanks for trying to help me.

has the tuning been verified yet? great job with the design dan

Dan,

I found a way to pull speakers wire without tearing the brand new wall down.
so I will be able to use the ep2500 and the Mael-X
I am planning to have the top covered with a granit.
Any thing against it? In this case I will glue the granit with silicone to be sure it won't vibrate.
In this case I can make the top corner square?
as far as the MIC 2200 do I really need it?
what about the use of the LFE bass out and choose the cross over at 60,80hz,90 or even 100hz

Dan...

Area of a circle is pi*R^2 or pi*D^2/4; your formula is twice the circumference, 2*pi*D. You got the right answer only because 2*D = (D/2)^2 if D=8.

This may be a contributor to Dian's confusion...

Frank

Dan,

I found different dimension:

the Back should be 26" 1/2 not 27 " 1/2
the IB1 should be 21" 3/4 x 22" 1/2 and not 23" 3/4
P1 should be 22" 1/2 x 33"1/2 and not 21" 1/2
am I correct?

also as I will do a granit on top I will not do round over for the outside but just for the inside and the port as requested.
then the BOTTOM, BACK, FRONT, and TOP will be 24" wide. I will still do a small round over like 1/4"

I am planning to go and buy the MFD tomorow

Dan,

You still have P1 at 21 1/2 it should be 22 1/2
and The back and front are shown 27 1/2 it should be 26 1/2

about the round over of the port can I do it with a 3/4"
my router won't take a so big bit.

you should have been kidding me.
I went close it and re-opened it and one was fixed but not the other one. And now they are all fixed!!! I think you just don't want to give me a second cookie

For the router it is a porter cable 690 1 1/2 HP.
I will check tomorow morning but I don't think it will accept 1 1/2" bit

BTW the MDF is home. I read somewhere that people use wood glue. I was thinking to use liquid nail and screw, which in my opinion should handle the vibration much better

as far as the behringer ep 2500 will the ep 1500 be fine.
I am not planning to run two subs and will only have one with the Mael-X

the ep 1500 is still 1400W RMS on one channel

Hi Dan,
I have a question in regards to amp placement.
With your detailed cut sheets, i am confused if you had planed to mount the amp in this box or if secondary placement is advised.
I have been following your series (very awesome i may say), and you don't hear it enough, YOUR THE MAN!
Thanks for all the help through these posts!

p.s. you and the other builders should post completed pics of there subs! I bet they look fantastic!

Thanks,
John