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CRT Gurus: how does Gain/Bias/Drive/etc. affect light output? Formula needed.

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
Hi,

I have finished the first draft of my blend calibration software and I need to know how G2 and DRIVE (in Marquee terms) affect light output.

I understand generally speaking light output is:

L = K * (b + c *x) ^ G

Where:

L -> Light output
K -> Max value (would be a factor a Marquee's CONTRAST, I guess)
b -> Brightness (black level offset)
c -> Contrast
x -> IRE (from 0..1)
G -> Display gamma

What I need to know is how G2/DRIVE affect the above formula.

The reason I need this is b/c I am writing an automatic calibration software for CRT blends and I've found that the regular mode to do grayscale tracking on a Marquee (iterate thru 30/70 IRE readings) does not yield a very good BLUE curve - and I want to further correct this by using the ability to individually control SUB-GAIN bias introduced in latest marquee versions.

My software currently does:

- Measure light output for all 3 channels (R G B) from ~10 IRE to 100 IRE taking 20 samples in total (configurable). With this it calculates the gamma curves for R G B. Measuring low-IRE output is possible using a digital camera. I wrote the software to do this using a DSLR camera in RAW mode, so I read 16-bit readings off the camera's CMOS sensors.. Each reading takes ~30 secs, but the process is fully automated (you need two computers, the one measuring/controlling and a pattern generator server which I also wrote).

- It synthesizes a gamma curve assuming different low/mid/high gamma, and it creates an ideal blend curve based on that. I am using my Blendzilla right now, and I've gotten the best blend I've managed to get.

I'll post some screenshots of the software if you are interested. I also contacted TV-ONE in case they are interested in this software working for their units.

rgs - Andres
post #2 of 24
Andres you are an amazing programer !!!! That sounds great, so what version software does the Marquee need to have for this to work with it? Also for the blue yuo would have to add into the software a way for it to defocus the blue to lower the blue hump you probably are seeing correct? Blue phosphor does not output the same amount of light as the other two colors at the same drive and G2 levels, the way to "catch" up is blue defocus to spread the beam out over more phosphor area, at least this is the theory as I understand it. If you could add the blue defocus into the program so you can watch the curve as it defocuses the blue that be cool !!

Athanasios
post #3 of 24
Hello

On a Marquee, G2 is a bias voltage originating in the hvps, ranging typically 525 to 650 volts, which enables the electron beam to leave the gun. The G2 value required is also a measure of the gun condition; a G2 setting of 58-60 being typical of new tubes, 72-75 means the remaining tube life is a few thousand hours or less, and 80 meaning the tube is about gone.

Drive and contrast and both gain adjustments. Drive is individual gain, adjusted in the VIM via the Service Menu and intended for setting gray scale; while Contrast is a user control for every day needs.


.
post #4 of 24
Thread Starter 
Athanasios - right now I am just measuring curves and synthesizing a blend curves. I have already a prototype proof of concept which communicates with the PJs via RS232. For the sub-brite to work I have to do some hacking on the RS232 protocol (sniff it, basically) as the sub-brite controls are not documented. I *think* sub-brite controls are available beyond 5.0.

Tim - thanks for the info - what I am looking forward is a formula that relates G2 and drive.

I think I've read that current intensity in the cathode is:

Ic = k * Vcut ^ e * Vd ^ Y

where e+Y = 3/2

Vcut is the cut-off voltage which is related to G2, Vd may just be the drive, but i am not sure.

Next weekend I will take some measurements changing G2/drive, then changing BRITE to see how they affect.

I think BRITE is just the DC offset, but I want to know how G2 and drive interact, and how G2 and drive are related to BRITE and CONTRAST.
post #5 of 24
Hello

Good hunting, but how do you factor in gun and phosphor wear?


.
post #6 of 24
Thread Starter 
At this point I don't. One of the benefits of having this system is that it would allow the recalibration of the CRTs as often as you'd like - so if there is aging and G2 needs to be upped as a result... the SW will do it for you.
post #7 of 24
How do you account for the changes in these relationships between CRTs with aging?
post #8 of 24
Thread Starter 
I don't - but it is not needed. I would expect the equations for have some parameters that vary with aging, and I would expect those parameters to have a range.

What I am looking for is a general idea to determine if:

- G2 affects the slope of the gamma curve, if so, how - or does G2 just OFFSET the gamma curve.
- Drive affects low end, or is a multiplier to the overall curve.

I think I am just going to:

Set G2 to say 60. Measure from 10..100
Get G2 to say 65. Measure again, see how the curves relate

Same for drive.
post #9 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 View Post

Blue phosphor does not output the same amount of light as the other two colors at the same drive and G2 levels, the way to "catch" up is blue defocus to spread the beam out over more phosphor area, at least this is the theory as I understand it. If you could add the blue defocus into the program so you can watch the curve as it defocuses the blue that be cool !!

Athanasios


This is correct the blue runs out of steam at higher IRE levels , defocus and much better results.
post #10 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

How do you account for the changes in these relationships between CRTs with aging?

The beauty of CRT is say the 10,000 hour+ life time for Home Cinema use.

So the age process is slow, this system could also be used for digital systems, In those cases the age issue is much greater, the first 50-100 hours of a 1000 lamp life has massive changes, this system sounds like it will be able to quickly adjust and adapt.

good news for all.
post #11 of 24
Very Cool Andres!
Look forward to seeing the results.

My best to the family & Happy Holidays!
post #12 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mark.

Andy - yes, you are right in that it could also be used with digitals - especially with regards to calibration.

I am in talks with TVONE to see if they are interested in adding gamma correction on all three R G B channels using (uploaded) gamma curves. Having R G B gamma correction is a very powerful feature but honestly, without a way of automatically setting it up, calibrating it manually using manual touching of the curves would make the offering relevant to hard-core tuners, whereas the automatic reading/calibration would make grayscale calibration accessible to a broader consumer audience.

Those gamma correction curves would be generated using the luminance readings for each channel... and now that I think of it, it could also be used to achieve perfect grayscale tracking for digitals & CRTs, using 256-point gamma correction in an automated way, for any projector.
post #13 of 24
Quote:


... and now that I think of it,....

Ha ha ha......

Read the PM I just sent you.........

Your last line I just spent half an hour typing about !!!

.
post #14 of 24
Thread Starter 
PM and email sent.

I asked this to tse and he's confirming that G2 ~ offset, DRIVE ~ multiplier:

--
Perhaps overly simplified:

DRIVE x signal = light output

G-2 + signal = light output

BUT, DRIVE is scaled such that minimum is not "0" nor is 50% one half 100%. The green DRIVE only makes a few percent change in green output when changed from min to max. Red and blue DRIVE have alot more effect.

The sub brite adjustments do the same as G-2. Sub-brite + signal = light output. BUT the sub-brite controls can crush the video at the black end or the bright end. Unless you have a scope to check the video crush it is best to leave the controls at midrange. Use G-2 for offset adjustments.

Hope that helps.
--

Which is good news in that at least now we know more, but bads in that you cannot really control the SHAPE too much with these parameters, hence you need an X-point curve correction (a Lumagen or better yet R G B gamma compensation in the blend box) to achieve PERFECT grayscale tracking and hence perfect blend.
post #15 of 24
Interesting experiment, but it seems pointless IME. CRTs just vary too much from the start, and vary drastically with age. The aging process is not linear. The whole reason that we have to calibrate them so much is the variance and the lack of consistency and linearity over time.
post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 
That's one reason I started this. The calibration process is manual and time-consuming. I want to streamline it, so if I need to recalibrate it due to aging, I'd just leave the software & PJs doing the auto-calibration.
post #17 of 24
I hope TV-One will implement the gamma controls to a larger point system than the 11 point system on the Lumagens, I love having that control. Andres, I think there is a way to do gamma individually for each color in the Lumagens, not sure though. I guess Id have to ask Jim.

The hardest part is to get the blue calibration to work, you need to figure out a parameter for the defocus otherwise it there would still be a manual entry needed
and then it will have to run the whole calibration over again. For a digital system this will work great but for the CRT aspect that you want it more for, you need to get that defocus control into the software.

Athanasios
post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
Athanasios - I agree re: B defocus.

Stupid question: when you do electronic defocus to gain light output on blue do you need to change static focus UP or DOWN? (well... I guess the question is mostly for the stock yokes as people with modded frankenyokes may have reversed polarity of static focus inadvertently).
post #19 of 24
you need to de focus it, so down in the service menu .

Athanasios
post #20 of 24
Dear Andres;

When you get to the point where you are looking for beta testers, I offer my humble little blend pair as a test facility.

William
post #21 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks William.

BTW:

Quote:


humble little blend pair

sounds SO FUNNY! :-)
post #22 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

Interesting experiment, but it seems pointless IME. CRTs just vary too much from the start, and vary drastically with age. The aging process is not linear. The whole reason that we have to calibrate them so much is the variance and the lack of consistency and linearity over time.

With views like that don't ever torture yourself with a digital

Which ever way you look at it calibration is there for a reason , To keep a constant no matter what is being calibrated. Once you decide calibration is required it needs to be maintained - That's life........But a better life........

(Only my opinion, and a good thing I think thats well worth doing)
post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMrH View Post

With views like that don't ever torture yourself with a digital

Which ever way you look at it calibration is there for a reason , To keep a constant no matter what is being calibrated. Once you decide calibration is required it needs to be maintained - That's life........But a better life........

(Only my opinion, and a good thing I think thats well worth doing)

I don't quite get your point, but it seems like you think that I am arguing against calibration. The opposite is true. I make part of my living calibrating displays, and do lots of CRT based products. My point is that attempting to automate the process in this manner is interesting, but my experience with automated calibration schemes, and three decades of working with CRTs, tell me that manual calibration is always going to be much more precise. The variables will be difficult to manage, at best.
post #24 of 24
"The green DRIVE only makes a few percent change in green output when changed from min to max. Red and blue DRIVE have alot more effect."

Good then tune green drive as high as possible without blooming and then tune red and blue up to it. Preserving the tube life with the overall correct contrast and brightness settings should balance things out after that, for longer tube life. Next time I break out colorfacts I'll try it. Hope gamma comes in at about 2.50.
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