Originally Posted by millerwill
Guys, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit it, but I bought a EyeOneLT colorimeter several months ago and only yesterday finally got to learning how to use HCFR to do my GrayScale calibration. I have been using the settings Jason put in initially, and I now have 460 hrs on the lamp so it's reasonable that it has wandered.
One of the reasons for my procrastination is that I'm a 'mac person', and on a pc (for running HCFR) didn't see how to get the driver for the EyeOne into the 'same directory' as HCFR. But an AVS buddy from Palo Alto, Les Alderson (htwaits on the forum), was up yesterday to get his first look at a RS20, and he solved this problem for me.
So with the grayscale calibrated (see below), I'm using THX with Color = 0 and find it plenty 'colorful'. Contrast is 0, and Brightness is 0 or 1. When I use a pluge pattern that has other bright material on the screen, I can't see the 2% bar with Br = 0, and need Br = 1. If it's a pluge pattern with a dark background, I can see the 2% bar with Br = 0. So I'm inclined to go with Br = +1.
Here are the GrayScale/Color Temp settings that I come up with; I know that they vary (perhaps considerably) from one pj to the next, but I would appreciate hearing from you if these seem within the realm of what you find:
RGB Gain = 0, -16, -40; RGB Offsets = -5, -4, 0.
Several people have suggested keeping all the Offsets at 0, but I couldn't balance R, G, and B this way. (But I was careful to make sure that I used no boosts for the offsets, as has been emphasized.)
And finally, even to my unsophisticated videophile experience, I find the pq to be noticeably better. The colors seem deeper, though completely natural, and the 'intrascene CR' or whatever, seems even better/crispier.
Millerwill, glad to see you've beaten procrastination!
Your gains look in line, but your offsets look very negative, and it's surprising you have to take that much red out. Are you doing it by eye, or are you using the i1? The latter is not of much use below 30 IRE, so make sure if you use the meter to work on the offsets to tick "average many read in low light" in HCFR, and to use 30 IRE to balance offsets. Otherwise you're calibrating the meter more than the PJ...
A good way to check this is to check the offsets after you've moved the meter, say 24h later. It's unlikely you'll find the values still apply.
I would trust the i1 at 30 IRE and above, and below that make any adjustments primarily with your eyes. I usually try to adjust so that I get the best result between 30-100, and I ignore 0-20 unless there is something that I can see by eye.
Also make sure you calibrate with the same iris setting as the one you use most often.
Finally, re your brightness setting, it's normal not to see 2% grey if there is another bright area on the pattern screen, so I would stay at 0 as long as you can see a +2 with a normal pluge. Brightness at +1 is probably hurting your black level quite a lot, especially on a HP! Another way to check is, on the pattern with a pluge and no bright area, watch the black background rather than the +2. If the background gets ever so slightly lighter with +1, stay at 0. Your optimum brightness level should not make your black lighter.
Now of course I don't have much more experience than yourself in calibration, so we should expect some of the real experts to correct me