Wiring Light switches

Yes, you must ground each switch to meet code. The method how you describe would be sufficient.

You can use a GB steel compression fitting, slip over the ends, crimp and twist all four grounds upstream from the fitting in the back of the box. You leave several inches hanging past the fitting and then just snip one of the wires shorter and use the other 3 for your grounds. You do need a compression fitting crimper to do it right.
This all assumes you left ample wire danging from the box to begin with. I wouldn't try to twister nut 4 wires and 3 pigs with one nut. Divide it up.

I thinking Biggie mentioned it, too, but be aware that some local codes require copper compression fittings for the grounds rather than wire nuts, etc.

Code in our neck of the woods is that fittings as in Big's picture above are required. NO wire nuts on the grounds.

This is how Cathan did his. He used a ground ferrule and bonded the wires. He left long tails to connect to the actual devices.



CJ

The way I figured out how to do mine was to pull off the cover plate of a 3 switches near my front door and shined a flashlight in to take a look. All those extra pigtails and screw nuts you propose will make a tight box tighter.

If these are accepted in you area:



They are the easiest to use. They come in a bunch of different sizes 6 wire, 8 wire etc...

here is an eight wire one:

The BB home hardware stores are national enitities. Electrical code varies from area to area. Don't count on their stock to quantify local code.

Can't remember what those things are called...really handy though.

I asked around and couldn't get an answer in regards to "trade name" but, they are referred to as Push-In connectors on this site:

http://www.goodmart.com/products/ele..._connector.htm

Push Wire or push in wire connectors is what they are called

http://www.spoerle.com/cda/distilive...3,4257,00.html

You'll find them in the same area as the cap connectors.

The push in tabs on receptacles are notorious for coming loose over time. I'd be wary of using those push ins for pigtails.

Since you have a metal box, make sure it too is grounded.

I used steel boxes for all my outlets and switches. I paid a little extra for the steel boxes, but it cut down on wires when having multiple switches in a box. We would cut all the ground wires short to about 2 - 3" and leaving one long one. Then twist all wires together, and run a compression fitting over it to keep them together. Push the bundle towards the back of the box and have the long one that is left along the bottom corner of the box. Use a grounding clamp to affix the one wire to the box. Then cut off the excess grounding wire that is sticking out of the box.

Now instead of having an extra wire running to each switch, all switches are grounded by being affixed to the metal box. A little helpful hint that one of my friends from the electrical union taught me.

Cheers,
JJ

Believe me, I am the same way, a picture is worth a thousand words. Yes, you are correct. If the box is grounded the switches will also be grounded. This way with multiple switches or receptacles is much easier pushing the wires into and pulling the wires out of the box. Every box that my father and I installed was done this way. Here is some extra information for you.

Here is a picture of the grounding clip if you are unfamiliar with it.


I finally found a picture on the internet describing what I am talking about. Take all the grounds except one an cut them about 3" long. Now twist all the grounds together leaving the one long sticking out. Slide the compression fitting over the twisted wires and then crimp them down. Push the ground wires back out of the way and extend the long wire out past the box. The clip will have a hook on one side (not seen in picture above), this will go towards the inside of the box. Stick the long ground through the clip, slide the clip to the box and use a flat tip screwdriver to push the clip on using the hook portion.



Then for extra precaution you can finish the wire off as in this next picture or you can just cut off the excess which is what I do.



I didn't know if you messed with these clips before or not, that is why I went into the extra detail. Don't want anyone getting hurt from miscommunication with what I am talking about.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Cheers,
JJ

No problem, I am glad that could help! Let us know how it went.

Cheers,
JJ

While this method is acceptable for switches, you must use a self-grounding receptacle if you are not connecting the grounding conductor directly to the receptacle. You cannot omit the attachment of the grounding conductor on the typical receptacle you pick up at the Big stores.

The self-grounding receptacles are pretty expensive.

Tim

If you are using a metal box, yes you are required to also ground it.

I can understand that thought process. I had taken a course and my instructor was very adament about always grounding metal boxes. Back in the day the devices would be grounded by the box as mentioned but I believe they now prefer a ground going to each device. Each local community can be slightly different but better to overdue than not, good luck.