The Official AVS Dish DTVPal DVR Topic! - Page 472

I have had one DTVPal DVR (F201 firmware) since December 2008 and a second DTVPal DVR (F208 firmware) since July 2009 and the BEST ADVICE is to not schedule any timers over the time change. When Sunday morning arrives (after the time change) delete ALL of your timers and re-enter them. Having done that for 3+ years I have avoided the headaches and problems associated with the DST time change. BTW I have TVGOS time lock in my area.

It's interesting to note that both firmware versions that I have and currently use (F201 and F208) handle the time change differently but neither gets it right! On the F201 machine I have a Mon-Fri timer scheduled for 7:00 PM to 7:30 PM. Next week the timer itself is correct for 7:00 PM to 7:30 PM but the entire TVGOS program guide is shifted back by one hour so the program that I want to record is listed in the TVGOS guide from 6:00 PM to 6:30 PM. On the F208 DVR I have a weekly timer scheduled for Thursdays from 9:00 PM to 10:02 PM. Next week it is listed to record from 9:00 PM to 11:02 PM but the TVGOS program guide itself is correct and does not have the one hour backwards time shift that my F201 DVR has.

I would speculate that those using PSIP times MAY have more problems than those using TVGOS time lock. If some of your stations do not change their PSIP time over to DST at the appropriate time, that could possibly confuse your DVR further and cause problems with your timers. Perhaps that's why some people experience certain problems and other don't-using PSIP times vs. TVGOS time. Even though firmware F208 uses a "weighted average" of PSIP times to set the correct time in the absence of TVGOS time, it's anybody's guess how the firmware handles conflicting DST PSIP time changes and what the effects are on your scheduled timers.

It's hard not to avoid the timer since I record stuff and then watch them later. I will just have to check them before I go out. Now, if we could figure out the patterns when the changes happen. I assume it is random.

Jack Morris:

"...Just keep your DTVPals in open air(no enclosed cabinets) with room on all four sides of the box and it will probably last as long as would any PC in the same place left running..."

I have two F208 boxes - the one in the open air on our bedroom dresser is running significantly cooler to the touch than the one within an open front TV cabinet. Both are on large R/Shack rubber feet which significantly reduced their temperatures in both locations.

Donald1800

One other issue, which I noticed in my latest DTVPal when I replaced the HDD, is internal dust bunnies. I couldn't believe the big wad of dust which had accumulated in the unit next to the vent and around the fan. That dust HAD to cause a reduction in cooling in that DVR and might have played a major role in why the HDD failed in that unit?

Maybe you can add filter coverings on the outside of the fans? Mine is probably dusty by now. I know my computers and room get VERY dusty.

On Page 1 of this thread: Link to the most current Firmware F208:
http://www27.zippyshare.com/v/65643705/file.html

This file doesn't have an extension so I can't tell what program I need to unzip it or extract the tr50_f208_0huc00.upd file. Any tips?

I just downloaded it from that page and did a file compare of it to my copy of the F208 that came from Dish's web site back when it was available there.  They were identical.  All you have to do is rename it.

Instructions for Completing a DTVPal DVR Software Update via USB

1. Insert a USB stick into the USB drive on your computer. Open the USB network drive. Right click and select New - Folder. Name the folder update. If a previous update has been performed with the USB stick and an existing update directory exists please ensure you either delete the directory or rename it.

2. Open your internet browser and go to http://www.dishnetwork.com/dtvpal/dvr_support.shtml. Click on Download Software Update When the File Download window pops up, click Save. Save the file in the update folder you created on your USB stick.

3. When the file has finished saving, remove the USB stick from your computer. Turn on your DTVPal DVR and insert the USB stick in the USB port on the back of the converter box. When the popup appears, press OK -or- wait 30 seconds for the download to begin automatically.

The information in this document may change without notice.
1 of 3 Copyright © 2009 DISH Network Corporation Rev. 1/12/09

4. You should then see the message, USB Download Available which will display the current software version and the new software version. Press Download to continue -or- wait 30 seconds for the download to continue automatically.

5. Once the file has been loaded, the DTVPal DVR will verify the download. DO NOT press Select. Pressing Select on the remote will cancel the update. Remove your USB stick from the DTVPal DVR to complete the update.

The information in this document may change without notice.
2 of 3 Copyright © 2009 DISH Network Corporation Rev. 1/12/09

6. You will then be advised not to switch off your DTVPal DVR. Once the update is complete, the converter box will automatically reboot.

The information in this document may change without notice.
3 of 3 Copyright © 2009 DISH Network Corporation Rev. 1/12/09

The link you provided in Step 2 is dead - 404 page. Second, the name of the file in the zippyshare.com site (page 1 instructions) is phpQYEZB5. It's not clear that that is actually the 208 firmware except that it's about 8MB which, I read, is the size of the firmware update. It's not likely that the DTVPal is going to recognize that file name as a fw update. Maybe I should just rename it to tr50_f208_0huc00.upd. ??

Why have all the legitimate sites removed any traces of support for this thing?

Thanks. I missed your comment when I replied to the next comment.

YOu missed long time ago - here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=13824

I provided the USB instructions verbatim/exactly as they were provided by Dish in 2009 and that's why I included the Dish copyright 2009 in the instructions. I assumed that those reading this thread knew that the Dish DTVPal website was no longer active (hence the 404 Page Not Found) and that was the reason the F208 firmware download link (from an alternate source) was provided on page 1 of this thread.

The exact file name for the F208 firmware is TR50_F208_0HUC00.upd and should be used to prevent any problems when updating the firmware. The size of the original Dish file is exactly 7.87 MB. If you follow the Dish instructions carefully and rename your downloaded F208 file to exactly what I have provided, you should be all set.

Yes on some, but not all, channels.

I had one weekly timer kick in an hour late last night (you'd think if anything, it would be an hour early).

Sunday morning I expect to review everything and reprogram whatever's messed up, including deleting and reentering all my repeating timers at the least.

You should review daily or right before the recordings just in case. I will be doing that. Our DTV Pal DVRs are crazy buggy!

Hehe... I was about to say that my units don't seem to have these problems until I realized that we only rarely use the repeating record function on them. Usually just go through the guides a few days at a time and hit the red button when I see and highlight a show I want to record.

Now that I think about it... last time I used the record all/every function on a DVR(Sony DHG), I ended up with about 48 Entourages(from 2 different channels airing old episodes)... which only included about 22 individual shows... and the rest just repeats/copies of those 22. We wanted to watch them in order in which they originally aired, but since the Sony groups program episodes under a single name(not individually like the Pal) it took us about a half hour just to figure out where in the listing to start for each channel chronologically.

Well after having it record every night for the last 2 years.I decided to put in a 1TB hard drive.The case wasn't easy to get apart.But I finally got it.Tons of dust inside.I put in an 1tb WD Caviar Green 7200. The box said cool,quiet,consumes 40% less power. I put it in and it runs.I did a short record and it did fine. Tonight I'm recording 5 hours of shows.So I'll see if everything goes well. Will Post

It's funny but I know what you mean about getting the case apart... kinda scary the first time since you follow ALL the directions and it still doesn't budge easily.... so you say, in your mind, what the hell, it is already broken and pull just a bit harder and POP and SNAP.. it is open.

I'd think the 2nd time is alot easier.

Good Luck and I'd guess it will continue to work now as long as would any HDD in a PC type component.

Congrats!

You must have been watching me - tried to follow instructions - pop - pop- pop three of the locking tabs are broken off. And I just opened it to clean it and see if I could do it. How do you replace the screws that go in under the rubber feet? That and the one outside screw are the only things holding it together now.
I have two units running 24/7 for over 3 years recording and playing multiple shows daily.
One unit (the one I opened) has begun an occasional 'freeze' on playback - wait 3/4 minutes and it recovers or force reboot ; have locked the recordings that did it - too soon to know if it helped.
Considering a 'preemptive strike' and replacing hard drive don't really need more space but bigger does not cost much more than smaller. Instructions do not actually show how to replace drive - is it as simple as a cuple of screws and a plug?
There are so many available and post#1 does not include all current drives. On line I am overwhelmed with number of drives available. Some of us folk do not know how to choose.
Is this a bottom line?
SATA3, AV, Internal, 5200RPM, Transfer rate?, Memory? and some other specs/
Thanks
Bernieoc - saved over $3000 in cable fees

I opened the case of one of mine to replace the HD and realized that I was stupid for not snapping off the tangs so the case is shut solid again.

I would suggest that there is NO reason to close the case up again with the tangs in place. It is not going to impact the warrantee as for just about all owners there is NO longer any warantee that would be in place that would get voided.

There are lots of good reasons to make the case easier to open.

1. It's a pain in the neck to open with the tangs in place.
2. If it was easier to open people could regularly inspect the insides and clean out the dust that accumulcates and that would include the fans which are critical to the cooling. This would help the unit to stay in service longer.
3. If a hard drive fails it would be quicker to check and replace.
4. There is not a reason for most of us to have the top securely fastened like it is guarding Fort KNox.

This summer when reruns are on I plan on opening both of mine, cleaning them and breaking the tangs so the top can be popped off easily in the future. So I void the warrantee. Big deal at this point.

By the way. When I replaced the HD in my one unit I was amazed at how much dust is sucked into the unit and sitting on the components. It was only in use for a little while too.

Putting back screws in rubber feet - I just put on my reading glasses so I could see and carefully dropped in the screws threads down(of course) with a hemostat. Then used a small phillips head screwdriver to carefully align the screw with the hole while slowly turning the screw counterclockwise until it feels right while using a flashlight to see in the hole, then turn clockwise until the screw is fully tight. A small phillips with a magnetized end would make it alot easier.

Replacing the HDD - Slow and easy. I removed the 2 screws holding in the HDD bracket first, then carefully lifted the HDD up and turned it over to remove the TWO cables. Note the direction they are attached to the HDD so you can correctly reattach to the new drive(although they might only go back in one way?) and then remove the cables from the HDD. I left them attached to the DVR. Now holding the free HDD bracket, remove the 4 screws on the two sides and remove the HDD. Put in the new HDD, reverse the process and you are good to go. No need to do anything to the HDD prior to installing it.

What HDD to Use? - When I did mine it was suggested that for best performance I should get one of the listed units or a drive which is optimized for AV applications. Others said just about ANY drive will work fine. Since I was trying to repair a unit with unknown problems(I was hoping it was ONLY a bad HDD), I opted to go cheap but AV and got a manufacturer refurbed 500 GB WD AV-GP HDD on Ebay for $66 delivered. It works perfectly!

Good Luck with your HDD upgrade!

Only one factor is technically important - any SATA-x drive.

Customer's factors: noise, heat, durability.
Best: AV-GP
Good: 3.5" desktop type->server->2.5" notebook's drives.

Minimal requirements: SATA-I, 5400 RPM.
Limits: 80-1000 GB.

Of course; that goes without saying.

My problem is that I'm too much a worrier to leave well enough alone.  This time I swore I'd wait until Sunday morning to see the effects before I rescheduled things, but it was too much to bear.  I ended up deleting all my repeating timers and scheduling only one-shot events for next week.

I am writing here to ask questions about modifying my CM 7000Pal. I recently purchased a 1TB HDD and am currently trying to decide the best way to mount and use it, if possible with access to the original 250GB drive. I know how to do the internal swap mentioned on page one and have read over this thread fairly extensively so I have seen several contributors’ ideas of how to add an external drive mechanism. I have a few questions of everyone and some specifically of the three people who suggested ways to add an external drive apparatus. That would be P Smith, A V Empiricist and vmalhotra who have given really nice photos and descriptions of their methods.

Question 1: Has anyone had any problems with the simple swap out internally to a 1 TB HDD and do they have suggestions about the swap? Should I use gloves when touching HDD and wire plugs? Is there a concern for static charge doing any damage?

Question 2: Has anyone had any problems with their external hardware additions either with use or durability? Are your new drives still working after a year or more and have you found any problems with any particular size or model HDD? Does anyone have thoughts or reservations about using the internal power source for an external HDD?

Question 3: Has anyone reading this tried any other method to add an additional HDD or found a switch so the wires or HDD did not have to be continually disconnected and reconnected?

Question 4: I assume there is still no one who has successfully managed to move recorded files from one drive to another except P Smith? P Smith has mentioned at one point or another that one could use “GHOST” or “Clonzilla” to copy a PalDVR HDD. He has also mentioned MHDD and SMART as well as “Victoria” to investigate various attributes of the HDD. I am not very savvy about the tech aspects spoken here. Is that software that is used on a PC? Is there anyone who could give me the directions of how to accomplish these tasks or direct me to where I can find more detailed instructions please? There is also a mention at one point “In case if your backup drive is bigger then original [250 GB] you will need to make reverse copy to that one what will be inside of replaced DVR.
Using bigger disk [with small partitions] inside of new DVR will destroy your copy - be vigilant to the process.”( #12082) Is there somewhere I could read instructions how to do this procedure?

Question 5: P Smith…did you consider doing the same change to the power wires (yellow, two black and red) that you suggested for the eSATA so that the internal HDD could be powered down when using the external HDD? (#8926) If it is possible why not do this to allow the internal drive to stop while also providing power for the external drive or does the internal HDD stop spinning as soon as the eSATA is disconnected?

Question 6: A V Empiricist…Has your mount stood the test of time? Do you have any new thoughts or improvements? Would you still use the Kingwin KF-1000 rack or do you have a different idea now? Anyone found a rack that would allow mounting two drives and have a switch so you did not have to continually disconnect and reconnect the HDD? What do you do with your out of use HDD to protect it?

Question 7: vmalhotra… Have you changed anything to your setup? Is it still working?
Thank you to all suggestions.

One common answer - you can't avoid power off for changing/switching drives.
There is no difference(in an eye of all PC users) if you're talking about SYSTEM drive.
Transfer file system with expansion to bigger drive... well, you can't do that.
My recommendation - use something like BlacX dock and add eSATA connector to your TR-50 and disconnect internal drive [or cut power at least ].
Wires ... again, BlacX would be the choice - no heat, no load to TR-50 power supply, easy access to change drives, etc.
As an alternative - see there ...

Thanks.

Just checked my PALDVR this AM. I am in the NY City area and my PALDVR clock's time was perfect this AM and my timers that I set Saturday for Sunday recordings are perfect.

I have never had clock issues and timer issues due to the time changes and that is still true.

Umm, I see you do manual formatting of your posts; so, please make your post is suitable for following, do separate quotas if you continue asking different questions - just try to quote your post pretending you do answering - see ? Your inline questions gone.
Your kind of response using for remarks when no need to follow.

Do you have any weekly timers, or just timers set to record once? It is recurring timers that seem to become confused by the time change.

Mark

I agree that recurring timers seem to have problems with the time change. My F201 DVR had a Mon-Fri timer set for 7:00-7:30 PM before the time change and it has now changed to 8:00-8:30 PM. My F208 DVR had a recurring Thursday timer set for 9:00-10:02 PM before the time change and it is OK for this week (March 15th) but the following week (March 22nd) it has changed to 9:00-11:02 PM. The fact that it is OK the first week but is then wrong the second week should reinforce the advice on this board to delete and reenter all of your recurring timers today to avoid any future problems.