Johnsteph10's HT 3.0 Build Thread - Page 5

Are you still getting the rs20 to go with the 150" smx?

I was just going to suggest that if you're looking at the jvc's to look at the 20 instead of the 10. My 10 was great, but knowing what I know now (how picky I became lol) I would have got the 20.

Hey, anything for a fellow AVS'er
Garen

How many hours do you have your bulb now and do you have the space in the bonus room to zoom out that large to test it? That'll give you a good idea of how it will look. If it's normal flat paint, it will be even brighter on the smx screen, especially if you'll have a completely light controlled room.

The bulb will be it's brightest for the first 100 hours or so, and after 500 or so it gets to almost half the brightness that it was when it was new.

An alternative I thought of before getting the Sim was changing bulbs more often in the jvc, say every 500 hours or so. I think for me that equals a new bulb every 4 months or so (I use it every day).

When I upgraded my screen to an smx, I wanted to go as big as I could. I was originally going to get a 137" wide screen and Jason at AVS said I was pushing the limits of the rs10 too much at that size. So what did I do? I went even bigger to 150"

Anyway, I would do the test and see how it looks to you.

I've got the RS20 on a 130" wide 2.35 1.16 AT screen and it's plenty bright. Wasn't sure whether your 150 was diagonal or width. But then again, I'm only at about 160 hours so according to Shawn I'm still in the prime bulb stage.

Sure I'll trade!

Ok sorry I removed my post swaying you the other way

Well obviously the cheaper method would be getting the smaller screen. As Jason told me on the phone there really isn't much of a middle step between the jvcs and the 3 chip dlps. So it's gonna be several times as much to go to a brighter (calibrated) projector.

Queen and some others have 130" and I tend to think that's the max sweet spot for the jvcs. 120" would be a little brighter still, but it's smaller. So figure out what screen size you have to have and go from there

I just started following your thread John, looks good so far and an interested in seeing what the final product is.

As for advice: What about going with a 120-130" screen but getting enough SMX for the 150" screen and not trimming to size. Then theater v2 could be getting a new projector and rebuilding the screen wall for a larger screen.

Who knows you might even like the smaller screen (OK, we all know everyone wants bigger, but if we say it enough one of these times it has to actually come true right?)

The most expensive item from smx is the frame. Once you're a customer you can buy replacement fabric for not a lot of money. So if he buys the 120" frame and 150" fabric, he would have to cut/stretch it to fit on the 120" frame.

John how close is your front row to the screen? I designed my room around only having one row in the back. Now that I added one in the front, I feel it's too close sitting in the front row. It's not even 1 times screen width. So if yours is similar, a smaller screen may be a better choice.

Ahh, I missed the part where he was going with the SMX frame also. I was just thinking the fabric and DIY frame.

Come on man!!! What do put up like two rolls and quit for the day??? The only way to do insulation is to do it all at once. I was my own insulation sub when I built my house. Roll after roll but you just have to keep plugging along so you can finally take a shower and be done with it. It doesn't get any better as the weather gets warmer.

Get it done, then get the fans with filters going.

I was going to suggest Logan but I don't think his back is that strong either.

Somehow, when the going gets tough, LOGAN figures out how to get the OTHER guy to do it.

DANG! That IS a lot of drywall. I'm thinking I may need HALF that. 12 foot 5/8's will be heavy...hope you have some help lined up.

John,
If your framing is pretty much right on, have you thought about going vertical with the drywall and getting 10's??? I am not sure if you are hanging and taping it but those tapered seams are WAY easier to do(for you or a pro) and it would eliminate all those butt joints as well as not having three rows of drywall on the 10' high walls...

Just a thought...

Garen

BTW We want pics of the speakers un-boxed after delivery!! let everyone over here see those Catalysts that most folks here don't know about!! and hey, I thought those were stopping at my place!!!

Great, we do it all the time in commercial applications, hope it works out...


Too funny, totally LOL I have been on a road trip since Monday, so that must be the problem

Now don't forget those pics!! oh, and I have carried those speakers before, so make sure and have someone help you(not kidding this time!)crazy heavy...

Garen

Oh, yeah and about getting those Catalysts.....YOU $UCK!!!!