**Official EMP Owner's Thread** - Page 43

Great Post!

..in the lower midbass/sub-bass region right? I know the Songtowers, well..pretty much everything by Jim Salk is amazing stuff, but if you meant you think the EMP's can be close to the same ballpark as the Salks over the entire freq. range then that's a nice thing to hear! I've always wanted to here some of those Salks. Very nice looking speakers with great sound to boot


Yeah if you've got an spl meter that's good then you can easily figure out what you're -3db point is in-room. I wasn't trying to attack your opinions or anything btw. I know its VERY hard to judge what people mean on forums/text so just wanted to throw that out there.

You might want to explore more in the sub forums and really figure out what you need to get the sound you're after. I know exactly what you're talking about because I've heard it plenty of times. I know that boxy sound well and would HATE if my setup sounded that way. I don't have a sub in my house (..yet:D), but I've been through countless subs in my car and heard many also. One easy way to get rid of some or most (lots of factors) of that boxy sound is using a little EQ. You can really mess up sound if you don't know what you're doing though. My 2 most recent setups in my car were 12w6's (ran them in 2 different sealed configs) and my current 12v3 IDmax. After conversing with others that have these subs, my car, etc and using things like WinISD I've made some pretty good sound in this car. I will say that I heard my buddies AE (acoustic elegance) IB15's infinite baffle and my god....those things can run up into the midrange and actually not sound too bad. Seriously a great sub and if I ever get bored again or want to change I'll be going IB just for the ease of spl down low and low power requirements.

But enough about that....I'd seriously look into picking up a different sub.

Good drivers and a great enclosure will net you the response you desire. I believe the the enclosure is more important than the drive and is the ultimate factor in deciding power needed and what drive to actually use. Like ousooner2 said, take a look in the subwoofer forum. You will get a lot of knowledge out of the diy sub forum and if you want a great sub for a fraction of the price the dit sub forum is the way to go.

thanks guys.. i'll def poke around but we might have gotten off track a bit.. i'm actually pretty happy with the es1010i and have no concerns with sub-base performance in my room..

my main comment was always regarding the e55's themselves lacking in the 80-200hz region and i still stand by that.. some agree, some disagree, in the end it's not a big deal as long as each is happy with their purchase.. in the end, i am happy with my emptek setup, esp at the BF price point they sold at.. they just didn't do it for me right at the beginning out of the box and without introducing some eq and bit of dsp..

If you are happy with your setup, that is all that matters. Enjoy your speakers. I have said this before....I have my e55ti's running off of an Emotiva amp so what I hear could be completely different then what everybody else hears. That and our rooms are not identical.

Oh I thought you were saying you were getting a boxy sound. Maybe that was with other setups. "boxy" could also be from the e55's, but not likely as I can't hear any sort of resonance issues at all.

And yeah....those BF prices were CRAZY

I think EQ/dsp gets a bad rap with most "audiphiles". EQ/dsp can be a VERY good thing if done correctly. I think I like the my front stage even more now (especially with music) with what MultEQ XT did. Does anyone have EQ/dsp on theirs? (specifically multeq)

If you do try that tweeter let me know how it turns out. I actually had a tweeter go out on me and they sent me another one. I think that my warranty has expired (if it is a 1 year warranty) so if my tweeter goes out I will need to purchase another one. I am super paraniod about it now and I always am checking it. What avr/amp are you pushing the emps with?

Definitely will. On that topic, the girl wanted to watch Hotel Transylvania tonight and I could detect some resonance with certain vocals. Again, likely something I can figure out where with my 1/3 octave sin waves, but it was a bit puzzling. I thought it was coming from all speakers, but when I switched it to stereo I didn't hear it. I think I might be hearing some vibration from my center. The stand I have for now (until my new one gets here) has glass shelves and I think it's vibrating the glass, which is making the sound. I'll definitely be looking into this tomorrow, but I really hope it's just an issue of needing to isolate the center from the stand.

It just might be the glass. When I had my center in the stand I put a black blanket behinde it because the sound was really muddy and kinda boomy from the center being surrounded by the wood. The blanket helped out a lot by dampening the mids on it. I really need to get the e56ci because I am overpower the e5ci right now between the e55ti's and my sub. I have the center channel running a little hot and it still is overpowered.

FWIW:

I purchased a pair of E55Ti's just under a year ago and for a short time was very dissatisfied with their incoherent soundstage and what I heard as sibilance in the 3-10KHz range from one channel at a time.

As it turns out, one of my tweeters was wired out of phase!

Since finding this, the sound has (obviously) improved a great deal and I have verified that the tweeters in my E56Ci center and E55Wi surrounds are all wired in phase. For reference, the yellow wire with a red stripe should be connected to the tweeter terminal that is colored with a red marker.

The woofers and midrange drivers cannot be simply "hooked up" backwards because the terminals are two different sizes and require matching connectors.

My subjective observations on the E55s indicate that they become "bright" at moderate to high volume when underpowered. Moving from a Yamaha RX-V667 rated at 90W/Channel (2 driven) to two Emotiva XPA-100 monoblocks (250W @ 8Ohms) has improved the "balance" of the output at all volumes tremendously. Mine are crossed over at 80Hz, below which point two SVS SB12-NSDs round out the LFE with aplomb.

That is crazy that we almost have the same situation. I have the 667 also but not the monoblocks. I have the Emotiva XPA3 and I do agree with you that the speakers sounded so much better after connecting them to it. I replaced the tweeter in the e5ci a while ago and I dont think that I put the wires in the wrong spot but after reading your post you are making me second guess myself. I will put it on my list to do things. That damn list is very long right now.

Unfortunately I need to sell my 1010i subs

Check here if interested.

$225 each

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1454619/emp-tek-1010i-subs-for-sale-in-pittsburgh-pa

RS28f won't work as the faceplate is quite a bit larger than what's in the Impression series. The faceplate for it is around 96-98mm's. Now I'm not saying the tweeter is bad for all the new guys that might be looking at this. Just a thought that crossed my mind if it's in fact the tweeter and not other factors making the noise that I hear. I have very sensitive ears too! Blessing and a curse lol

Any reason for selling the subs? I might have to get one of the black ones that isn't a bad price.

If I had room, I'd buy all four of them. Lol. But, I already have two of them and even those, barely, fit! Very good subs. And at that price, a steal! I paid $186 for each of mine. EMP Tek gave me a deal since I bought all my speakers at full price and my 30 day trial ended just before they had a huge sale. Very nice of them!

That was nice of them to do that. You could always stack the subs. It would be like a line array with subs.

...STACK EM Eastside!

I can't wait to dive into subs soon. DIY is looking REALLY good right now and I'll have plenty of cabinet space for a sub amp. I think a sealed Stereo Integrity 15" should do nicely . The guy who built the first ER18 towers in Piano Black did a crazy good job at the finish. I'm hoping I might be able to have him build me something like that. Downfiring and piano black. YUM!

Get a pro amp for your diy sub. more bang for the buck by a longshot. I just made a 12vdc trigger this weekend for my pro amp so that it turns on and off with the rest of my system. let me know if you are interested in that i can show you how. Also What is your budget and what exactly are you wanting out of your sub? I can maybe help you out in that area too if you are not sold on the one you are looking at. If you are most concerned with appearance you can do an IB sub and just have the port coming through the ceiling or wall. you will never even see the sub. The sky is the limit.....kinda

Having 4 takes up too much room. I am going to go with just one more powerful sub.

I am not downgrading based on performance.

I will ship but the buyer will have to pay shipping.

I was telling Eastside to stack them not you. What sub are you going with?

I can tell you with a very high degree of certainty: yellow wire with red stripe -> terminal colored with red marker.

That level of confidence can only be obtained by removing seven tweeters in a single sitting, just to make sure!

I could stack them, but I live in a townhouse and I have a feeling, my neighbors already don't care for me. I can't imagine what would happen if I had a few more. This is in a relatively small downstairs living area too. This pair I have just SLAM!

What do you mean by pro amp? From my limited looking at DIY sub stuff...there's basically plate amps and stand alone amps. I was going to go for the stand alone amps and just fit them in my tv stand cabinent. Stuff like the Crown XLS, Behringer ep, etc seem to get a lot of good reviews. Haven't really looked into which ones are better, pricing wise, etc yet though.

I will ask...does anyone know if there's a difference or anything added/taken away by having a sub downfire vs. having it fire into the room? I'd like to have my sub up close to the wall for space and if I DIY'd I likely won't be able to make a nice grill or anything like that so I was just thinking downfiring would be the way to go

The amps you listed are the pro amps. Pro amp is pro audio or live PA amps. That is the stand alone amp you are talking about.

You can buy grills for your subs and you can also built them with a grill kit from parts express. Check out parts-express.com for all the parts you need. There is another website (forgot the name) that you can buy flat packs if you do not want to make the cabinets yourself. what is your budget for your sub setup?

I didn't know you could just buy grills. I'll have to check that out. I've seen the grill/cabinet combo's at PE, but they're a tad expensive supposedly, the bracing is pretty mediocre and from one review I've read it seems you can't recess the sub very much so any sub with a good amount of excursion will hit the grill. Maybe they make extenders to put into the hole or on the "legs" of the grill to make it stick out slightly further. I dunno. Something else for me to check out lol.

Budget....I don't know yet since I'm not ready to build yet. Definitely doesn't hurt to get ready for it though. Once I'm ready I'd say I'd like to build something in the $600-650 ballpark. I see you can pick up the Epik Empire or Outlaw LFM-1 for near that (or slightly more on the Epiks part), but I'd assume I might be able to best them. I don't know that though as I haven't put anything into WinISD, looked up much SPL data out there, etc. I've got just shy of 4,000cuft of space, plus it's pretty open so i'll need some sub for that lower umph. I don't need anything crazy overkill like an 18" or something that will rattle the hell out of the house. I'm sure I'd think the Outlaw/Epik were plenty output wise, but it never hurts to have more if needed. Another concern is sq. I realize some guys build diy subs for sheer output or crazy low extension, but I'd want to build something that has very good sound quality also. I don't know much about these drivers used in HT applications.

Most of the diy subs have great sq. If you are concerned with the speaker grills you could always just make the sub so that the driver is facing the wall or if you have room you can build a horn sub. The thing with the horn sub is you do not need very much power at all to run it and it is very efficient with very low distortion. very clean crsip bass with plenty of overhead. The downsid of the horn sub is they tend to be larger than most subs and at <20Hz they roll of a bit but you can hear below 20Hz anyways. You can build a horn sub and buy an amp for about 400 bux and nothing will come close to that sub for even double the money.

Probably something from PowerSound Audio. The issue I have is I only have room to stack them. When I do, you can't see the whole tv from the sides as the subs stick out too far and are too high when stacked.

From what I hear on the forum, those subs are great. That will be a huge difference in your setup.

Anyone know just how often "B" class speakers go on sale from EMPtek? I wouldn't mind waiting for the E55Ti speakers but I don't want to wait for a sale which may never come. Also is it true that "B" class speakers are often discounted as much as 50%?
Thanks