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**Official EMP Owner's Thread** - Page 96

post #2851 of 3142
18 watts rms or 18 watts at peak moments? Is that at100 db's? Power to spl is not linear as the volume goes up. With all channels driven on an inflated numbers that avr companies put out and listening at loud volume, it is good to have to headroom much less the power to hit those dynamic parts without clipping and with clarity.
post #2852 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post



looks good! the E56ci makes your tv look puni!
post #2853 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmooresucks View Post

I've been lurking on here for a while, posted a couple weeks ago asking for recommendations. I settled on a set of Empteks (55ti, 56ci, 55wi) to replace my Fluance SX-HTBs. The fedex dude should come knocking any minute today with 180lbs of happiness - will post pics after!

welcome to Emptek! you're gonna love these speakers!
post #2854 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMW View Post

I understand that. I was just fighting the belief that someone needs 200 watts per channel to play a movie.

I've posted before when the stock "B" E55ti's first came out i posted about should i run an external amp and the discussion got heated and eventually this new thread was created. seemed like most people agreed an amp was not necessary. some believed it helps. some believed that what was the point in buying an amp for speakers less than a $1000 dollars. so far for me I cant see needing that much more power when its loud enough. bit to each their own.
post #2855 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remythepug View Post

I hear you. My Marantz SR5008 shows volume on a 100pt scale. I'm watching movies and music at 70-80, hence the 80%.

We all know the emp's aren't the most efficient of the bunch. What kind of avr are you running?

nice! i have the same avr... love the combo with these speakers. i have been pushing it hard this week with music at 80 volume, with absolutely no problem whatsoever. running for hours at a time... tho i do have one of the small cooler guy fans on top, it doesn't get more than barely warm. pure awesomeness biggrin.gif turn it up... and enjoy!
post #2856 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

18 watts rms or 18 watts at peak moments? Is that at100 db's? Power to spl is not linear as the volume goes up. With all channels driven on an inflated numbers that avr companies put out and listening at loud volume, it is good to have to headroom much less the power to hit those dynamic parts without clipping and with clarity.

Actual measured watts. I'm talking about two channel reproduction. My receiver has no problem with 18 watts with all channels being driven. Yes that is 100 db. That is about 10 db of overhead. People who use on line calculators fail to realize that the calculators are based on an anechoic environment. Any modern AV receiver will drive these speakers loud enough to drive you out of the room - unless your room is an auditorium, of course.
post #2857 of 3142
To all ES1010 owners. Does your amp runs hot? Mine feels like 70c. Is it normal for class D?
post #2858 of 3142
At normal listening levels? How long have you had it on? Need a little more info. It might feel hot if you've been running it hard for hours, but shouldn't burn you or anything. I'll check both of mine when I figure out what kind of time span and usage you're doing when you get this heat problem

Also, where are your gains at? I don't know if my room, though large, has some significant room gain or what but my duals need just a little more than 1/4 to be about -1 to 0 for MultEQ XT. I raise them a hair after it's done as I like my bass about 4-5dB's hot on most quality material. I'm still amazed at what these sound like and are capable of for their sale price of $250/ea. During bass heavy movie scenes or 99% of music I can't locate the subs AT ALL with an 80hz crossover. I can't really locate my e55's most of the time either. During movies, the e56ci has a tendency to not disappear for me as much as I'd like, but maybe I need to play with placement a little more.
post #2859 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by koresuki View Post

To all ES1010 owners. Does your amp runs hot? Mine feels like 70c. Is it normal for class D?

That is a matter of how much power you dissipate. Most people tend to have their subs play too loudly. The class D amp in my subwoofer is a little above room temperature but not a lot. 70c doesn't sound like anything serious.
post #2860 of 3142
My new Impressions. Still in break in period. Waiting a few more days then will A/B listen test with my old Fluance SX-HTB+.



post #2861 of 3142
Eh. How do they sound now? Definitely look great!
post #2862 of 3142
It will take him about a week to get used to them.
post #2863 of 3142

Well I spent 20 hours on a plane and the second thing I did after taking my dogs for a walk was hook up the new stuff; e56ci, e55ti and SVS PB-2000. Not a bad homecoming!

post #2864 of 3142
Very strange. I did an experiment. There's no music being played, I switch the sub to on (green led) and leave it there for 20 minutes. Check back and it becomes hot about 60c-70c. The receiver is even off! What cause?

The only difference my 1010i and yours is mine is running in 220v (with compatible fuse). I don't think it affects the sub.
post #2865 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by koresuki View Post

Very strange. I did an experiment. There's no music being played, I switch the sub to on (green led) and leave it there for 20 minutes. Check back and it becomes hot about 60c-70c. The receiver is even off! What cause?

The only difference my 1010i and yours is mine is running in 220v (with compatible fuse). I don't think it affects the sub.

UM...a fuse does nothing to change voltage. Actually 220v uses half the amps that 110v uses. Is the amp made for 220v? If not, I would unplug it right now and exchange it for a 220v amp if they have that option. Inside the amp there is a power supply. That has to be a 220v power supply or else you are at risk of burning up the amp or worse, start a fire.
post #2866 of 3142
Quick question regarding the use of banana plugs -- I hooked up my E5Bi's and E5Ci with banana plugs. I was watching the Led Zeppelin Celebration Day blu-ray the other day when I noticed a buzzing coming from the front right speaker. Forgot about it until yesterday when I was watching Pacific Rim and noticed the same buzzing. After 5-10 minutes I isolated the buzzing to the little plastic cap things on the back that the wires plug in to. Are these plastic pieces necessary with banana plugs or can I safely remove them to eliminate the possibility of future buzzing? They seem to be necessary if I was connecting the actual wire, but I think with plugs I might be ok removing them?

Also, after having these for a couple months, I'm still in love with them. Pacific Rim sounded incredible, even with just my Klipsch sub-10. Zeppelin, Adele, anything I throw at it and they are absolutely stunning. Definitely the best audio purchase I've made.
post #2867 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xonim View Post

Quick question regarding the use of banana plugs -- I hooked up my E5Bi's and E5Ci with banana plugs. I was watching the Led Zeppelin Celebration Day blu-ray the other day when I noticed a buzzing coming from the front right speaker. Forgot about it until yesterday when I was watching Pacific Rim and noticed the same buzzing. After 5-10 minutes I isolated the buzzing to the little plastic cap things on the back that the wires plug in to. Are these plastic pieces necessary with banana plugs or can I safely remove them to eliminate the possibility of future buzzing? They seem to be necessary if I was connecting the actual wire, but I think with plugs I might be ok removing them?

Also, after having these for a couple months, I'm still in love with them. Pacific Rim sounded incredible, even with just my Klipsch sub-10. Zeppelin, Adele, anything I throw at it and they are absolutely stunning. Definitely the best audio purchase I've made.

I'm a little confused. Are you talking about the top part of the banana plug itself or are you talking about a plastic cap that covers the binding posts?
post #2868 of 3142
Pretty sure he means the clear plastic covers on the binding posts. If it's not those, then play around with tightening the entire plate onto the speaker. ALSO!....if you have the feet on the speaker, make sure they're tightened and the chrome/metal 'feet' are tight also as those can rattle against the metal and make noise
post #2869 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenA07 View Post

I'm a little confused. Are you talking about the top part of the banana plug itself or are you talking about a plastic cap that covers the binding posts?

The plastic caps over the binding posts.
post #2870 of 3142
I think you would likely be find removing the plastic caps if they're causing an issue. I think the only real thing they do is act as a dust cap.
post #2871 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenA07 View Post

I think you would likely be find removing the plastic caps if they're causing an issue. I think the only real thing they do is act as a dust cap.

Someone asked EMP this a while back and their response was having to do with meeting EU regulations.
post #2872 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

If/when any of you guys run auto eq(MCCAC, Audessey, or YPAO) on your EF30C please share eq settings. Either PM me or drop something here. I have been toying with my eq settings but haven't found what I like yet.

You don't want your system calibrated to someone else's room.
post #2873 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post

Someone asked EMP this a while back and their response was having to do with meeting EU regulations.

Interesting! I wonder what regulation they have that would require those little caps. smile.gif I learn something new everyday on this site.
post #2874 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post

Someone asked EMP this a while back and their response was having to do with meeting EU regulations.

I called Emptek 10-15 minutes ago and asked, he said I can remove them and it won't cause any issues, but the caps are required to have them on there to get CE certification in Europe. Fine by me, but now I'm wondering why they need to have them to get certified if they don't really serve a purpose. I wonder what they accomplish. Weird.

Edit: I did find this after a few minutes of Google searching. It's for JBL speakers, but I guess same concept.

Excerpt
The hole in the center of each
collar is intended for use with
banana-type connectors. To
comply with European CE
certification, these holes are
blocked with plastic inserts at
the point of manufacture. To
use banana-type connectors
requires the removal of the
inserts. Do not remove these
inserts if you are using the
product in an area covered by
the European CE certification
post #2875 of 3142
Just an FYI on the on going analysis of the EMPtek speakers (reminder, I have the e5Ti, smaller center, the 1010i sub and some cheap surrounds in a 12x 22 foot basement room). Because of cell phone issues in my basement, I have spent more time recently watching movies upstair, where the speakers are the Def Tech SM450/center. I recently purchased several members of the Iron Man movie family and have only watched them on the Def tech system. last night I left the phoen upstairs and fired Iron Man 1 up on my EMPtek system...Wow, i forgot what I was missing. Not only are the EMPs way better that the SM450/center, but that sub just kicks the Klipsch Rw12d in the ass!

Maybe not a fair fight, as the EMP are three-way speakers and have two 5.5 inch woofer/drivesr... but the original list prices for the SM450 was 599.00/pr and the EMP e5Ti was 500/pr, and there really is no comparison between the two in terms of SQ! As I have said several times, these also hold their own very well versus my buddies Ascenc Acoustic CMT340s...at almost 700/pr!
post #2876 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elihawk View Post

Just an FYI on the on going analysis of the EMPtek speakers (reminder, I have the e5Ti, smaller center, the 1010i sub and some cheap surrounds in a 12x 22 foot basement room). Because of cell phone issues in my basement, I have spent more time recently watching movies upstair, where the speakers are the Def Tech SM450/center. I recently purchased several members of the Iron Man movie family and have only watched them on the Def tech system. last night I left the phoen upstairs and fired Iron Man 1 up on my EMPtek system...Wow, i forgot what I was missing. Not only are the EMPs way better that the SM450/center, but that sub just kicks the Klipsch Rw12d in the ass!

Maybe not a fair fight, as the EMP are three-way speakers and have two 5.5 inch woofer/drivesr... but the original list prices for the SM450 was 599.00/pr and the EMP e5Ti was 500/pr, and there really is no comparison between the two in terms of SQ! As I have said several times, these also hold their own very well versus my buddies Ascenc Acoustic CMT340s...at almost 700/pr!

I dunno...my Klipsch really shakes the room literally! I've been torn to run 2 e1010i's like some of u. but with them discontinued I'm really looking to see what Emptek is gonna surprise us with?
post #2877 of 3142
I hear you and my klipsch can get really loud! Just not as smooth and accurate at the EMP! No question the Klipsch has higher output and can hit lower, but compared to the Emp it is boomy and less accurate!
post #2878 of 3142
If anyone is near Pittsburgh Pa I will have a pair of e55ti's, e56ci center and e55wi surrounds for sale next week, all in red burl and excellent condition.
post #2879 of 3142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

UM...a fuse does nothing to change voltage. Actually 220v uses half the amps that 110v uses. Is the amp made for 220v? If not, I would unplug it right now and exchange it for a 220v amp if they have that option. Inside the amp there is a power supply. That has to be a 220v power supply or else you are at risk of burning up the amp or worse, start a fire.

The emp's amp is 110v/220v selectable. It won't start a fire if you choose the right voltage and the right fuse. Been using it 8 hours per day non-stop for 6 months smile.gif
It would be normal temperature if it were a class AB amp, but since it's class D at 70c I thought I would like to ask.
post #2880 of 3142
I am thoroughly enjoying the new center, I am hearing so much more detail now, and effects and dialog are much clearer and defined. I think the biggest difference for me is the imaging, while the towers do a great job on their own, I really get the sense of sound moving in front of me.

I am really tempted to go grab a nice 60" Samsung plasma, but I need to wait... mad.gif
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