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The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 46  

post #1351 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberto View Post

That's really surprising. I plugged his settings into my 600M last night and have been quite happy with what I've seen so far. Nice deep Kuro blacks. Did you test them on TV or DVD/Blu-ray (or both)?

BTW, I have an October 2008 build.

This is surprising. I have a Jan. '09 build and love elite's (calibrated by D-Nice) settings. I have also changed all my inputs to these and have watched std def, hdtv, and blu-ray with them. They seem really accurate color-wise and brightness/contrast.

I wonder if this problem with bfdtv's 600m is an input settings issue? The light grey blacks sure sound like what was happening with mine on directv before I changed the video on the input settings from auto to RGB(16-255). I have an H20 receiver.
post #1352 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlb11 View Post

This is surprising. I have a Jan. '09 build and love elite's (calibrated by D-Nice) settings. I have also changed all my inputs to these and have watched std def, hdtv, and blu-ray with them. They seem really accurate color-wise and brightness/contrast.

I wonder if this problem with bfdtv's 600m is an input settings issue? The light grey blacks sure sound like what was happening with mine on directv before I changed the video on the input settings from auto to RGB(16-255). I have an H20 receiver.

agree with mlb here, what source are you using when you got the gray problem? was it dvd/blu ray or was it cable/satellite? if it is satellite, you may want to check out the rgb settings, because that is what we have heard so far with the gray problem, being in the settings for rgb and what not.

I'd be really surprised if you are getting gray scene and not true black if you are using dvd/blu ray as your sources, the reason why I'd say that was because with all the various settings from either pbjunior, hometheatermag's 141, to d nice/elite's, one thing I noticed is that the contrast is always at either 40 or 39, and the brightness is either 0 or +1, so the variance between all 3 is rather limited, and can't change a black screen to a gray screen with such minor tweak. it'd be interesting to see what source you are using to be sure. but hope at least it is better now for you.
post #1353 of 4963
Mine is Jan'09 build and it looks fantastic with elites settings. However, I still plan on getting D-Nice to calibrate mine in the future, because I cant stand knowing that its not PERFECT after spending so much money. I would still recommend everyone getting a pro cal done unless you are able to calibrate it yourself, but thats just IMO. The main reason I am waiting is to see how the ISFccc situation turns out and/or if it comes to reality. The secondary reason is to now allow at least 700 hours based on previous comments about blackness getting better during that timeframe. Peace!
post #1354 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdtv View Post

Elite's settings were horrific on my January build 600M. The picture was washed out and the blacks were gray in a room with no ambient lighting. I'm not talking subtle gray, but worse-than-LCD type gray.

I thought I must have entered the settings wrong, but I double and triple checked to confirm they were correct.

There must be a fairly significant variance between some 600M units.

Out of the box, I used the 151 break-in settings for ~165 hours.

You need to check your HDMI input signal type. As others have stated, you need to force the output instead on keeping it on Auto.
post #1355 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by ndisgii View Post
Mine is Jan'09 build and it looks fantastic with elites settings. However, I still plan on getting D-Nice to calibrate mine in the future, because I cant stand knowing that its not PERFECT after spending so much money. I would still recommend everyone getting a pro cal done unless you are able to calibrate it yourself, but thats just IMO. The main reason I am waiting is to see how the ISFccc situation turns out and/or if it comes to reality. The secondary reason is to now allow at least 700 hours based on previous comments about blackness getting better during that timeframe. Peace!
Good call on having D-Nice calibrating yours. I hear ya on not being perfect. Here is a report on 600M with Elite-Home's "D-Nice settings". I forgot to do Color on it. Sorry. I'll redo when I get home.

 

Pure-Elite-Home-Settings-Pre.pdf 152.5126953125k . file
post #1356 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBJunior2 View Post

Good call on having D-Nice calibrating yours. I hear ya on not being perfect. Here is a report on 600M with Elite-Home's "D-Nice settings". I forgot to do Color on it. Sorry. I'll redo when I get home.

Your charts show that you have a plus red set OTOTB. Elite-home's set was plus green. Recal your display and see how close they come to the 500M settings.
post #1357 of 4963
I just received an i1Pro and decided to start from scratch on calibrating Pure on my 600M.

*WIP*
Grayscale with no color adjustments.
Contrast 39, Brightness 1, Color 5, Tint 0 and CMS at 0's.

I believe my 600M has a serious plus green. Can anyone recommend any pointers on dealing with that? Do you work the grayscale to compensate for this?


Thanks,
PBjr.

 

Pure-MK-Grayscale_Only_-4_0_14_0_0_-3.pdf 147.2861328125k . file
post #1358 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdtv View Post

Elite's settings were horrific on my January build 600M. The picture was washed out and the blacks were gray in a room with no ambient lighting. I'm not talking subtle gray, but worse-than-LCD type gray.

I thought I must have entered the settings wrong, but I double and triple checked to confirm they were correct.

There must be a fairly significant variance between some 600M units.

Out of the box, I used the 151 break-in settings for ~165 hours.

This is not a result of the Picture settings, more than likely you need to go into the input settings for the hdmi input you use and change the RGB setting from Auto to RGB (16-235) this will relieve the grayish tint to the setting and give you the picture you most deserve!!!
post #1359 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBJunior2 View Post

I just received an i1Pro and decided to start from scratch on calibrating Pure on my 600M.

*WIP*
Grayscale with no color adjustments.
Contrast 39, Brightness 1, Color 5, Tint 0 and CMS at 0's.

I believe my 600M has a serious green push. Can anyone recommend any pointers on dealing with that? Do you work the grayscale to compensate for this?


Thanks,
PBjr.

Please stop using the word push Wrong terminology. Its called plus green.

Your chart does not show a plus green set. It show the same issues at 100% peak white that most 60" Kuros have. You can try to reduce the contrast to see if that helps with the drop in blue at 100%.
post #1360 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Your charts show that you have a plus red set OTOTB. Elite-home's set was plus green. Recal your display and see how close they come to the 500M settings.
D-Nice, sorry that report is with all Elite-Homes calibrated settings. I was going to a do 'post' file after making minor adjustments.

This one is an older out of the box Pure report done with a Display 2 showing the plus green.

Thanks

 

HTPC-Pure-Pre.pdf 165.6708984375k . file
post #1361 of 4963
I forgot where it was mentioned but, the 141 speakers fit the 500M correct? Anything special you have to do or does the fittings and screws fit perfectly?
post #1362 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Management View Post

I forgot where it was mentioned but, the 141 speakers fit the 500M correct? Anything special you have to do or does the fittings and screws fit perfectly?

Don't you mean 111 speakers on a 500M? If yes, here is the info you need from RichB.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post16037782
post #1363 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Please stop using the word push Wrong terminology. Its called plus green.
.

Corrected.

Thanks.
post #1364 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBJunior2 View Post

I just received an i1Pro and decided to start from scratch on calibrating Pure on my 600M.

*WIP*
Grayscale with no color adjustments.
Contrast 39, Brightness 1, Color 5, Tint 0 and CMS at 0's.

I believe my 600M has a serious plus green. Can anyone recommend any pointers on dealing with that? Do you work the grayscale to compensate for this?


Thanks,
PBjr.

Just to make sure I'm reading this right, are your color temp adjustments for this report listed in the filename?

ie:
Color Temp: Manual
R High -4
G High 0
B High +14
R Low 0
G Low 0
B Low -3

Also, is Gamma set to 2?
post #1365 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlashJordan View Post

Just to make sure I'm reading this right, are your color temp adjustments for this report listed in the filename?

ie:
Color Temp: Manual
R High -4
G High 0
B High +14
R Low 0
G Low 0
B Low -3

Also, is Gamma set to 2?

Jordan - That is correct.
post #1366 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdtv View Post

Elite's settings were horrific on my January build 600M. The picture was washed out and the blacks were gray in a room with no ambient lighting. I'm not talking subtle gray, but worse-than-LCD type gray.

I thought I must have entered the settings wrong, but I double and triple checked to confirm they were correct.

There must be a fairly significant variance between some 600M units.

Out of the box, I used the 151 break-in settings for ~165 hours.

i have that same problem, but with my sony DVD player. its a older model, has only component outs (480i). sony goes to my DVDO edge then to 600m. my cablebox, blu-ray player and xbox 360 all dont have the grey washed out look. they all look amazing. i have tried different video setting on the 600m and the DVDO. non have fixed it. my solution put DVD movies in my samsung BR player, and dont use the sony.
post #1367 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by elite-home View Post

My 500 is mounted with the Peerless 660 and works just fine... not very expensive either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evenbone View Post

I just ordered a 500M, and a Peerless ST670 wall mount. It mounts to 3 wall studs, rather than 2 (which apparently many other, smaller mounts do).

If you are curious, I will let you know how it works out.

Thanks guys. Please do share your experiences. Any advantage/disadvantage to a tilting vs non tilting mount?
post #1368 of 4963
I do want to get a calibration myself, but am on the fence about it due to the following reason:

1. I am at an apartment, so the settings for my monitor may change, if I moved to a different place, am I right on that? unless I always keep the environment controlled and relatively dark.
2. the 700 hour mark. that part of it from D Nice and Elite is holding me back too. I figured I would just wait til I get at least 700 hrs in before doing any calibration.
3. cost. I have checked a few local places that offer the services. prices varied quite a bit. if someone can PM me and let me know what is the correct range for a calibrated service, I would greatly appreciate it.

D Nice/Elite's settings is bringing my monitor closer to perfection, but we all know no 2 monitors are exactly alike, so I know there is still a room for improvement. what do you guys think about my "apartment" situation, and Elite, do you know or remember at all when was your 600m built? Thanks.
post #1369 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by mousse View Post

Thanks guys. Please do share your experiences. Any advantage/disadvantage to a tilting vs non tilting mount?

Here's some pics of my 600M mounted:







The mount is an "OmniMount ULPT-XA Ultra Low Profile Xlarge Tilt Mount". It's a very nice, well-designed flat-panel mount.

When upright, the panel sits about 1.5" from the wall. I went with a tilting mount because there's a window opposite from the panel. The anti-glare screen on the 600M does a remarkable job even with the window. But I sometimes use the tilt feature when I want the absolute best picture during the day.

I bought the mount on Amazon for about $160, but it looks like the current price is over $200. Not sure why the prices have gone up so much recently.

BTW, there's a lot of windows in my room and I have no problems with either brightness or glare. The Kuro seems plenty bright to me and I absolutely don't regret going with the Kuro over the supposedly brighter LCD screens.

If I want a really bright picture, I just set my picture mode to Standard. I'm currently using Elite's settings for Pure mode and PBJunior2's settings for Standard mode.
post #1370 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody888 View Post

I do want to get a calibration myself, but am on the fence about it due to the following reason:

1. I am at an apartment, so the settings for my monitor may change, if I moved to a different place, am I right on that? unless I always keep the environment controlled and relatively dark.
2. the 700 hour mark. that part of it from D Nice and Elite is holding me back too. I figured I would just wait til I get at least 700 hrs in before doing any calibration.
3. cost. I have checked a few local places that offer the services. prices varied quite a bit. if someone can PM me and let me know what is the correct range for a calibrated service, I would greatly appreciate it.

D Nice/Elite's settings is bringing my monitor closer to perfection, but we all know no 2 monitors are exactly alike, so I know there is still a room for improvement. what do you guys think about my "apartment" situation, and Elite, do you know or remember at all when was your 600m built? Thanks.

I would assume that moving the tv around to different apartments should not necessarily sway you. Without the option of ISF for really bright environments, I dont see where you can change much to compensate, and it should look good if there is any light control at all. Just throw up some curtains or something if it super duper bright

Pricing for calibrations average $350-$450 for really good calibrators + travel expenses. You may catch a break on the travel expenses if you catch someone doing a tour, but it varies. That would be a good estimate IMO.
post #1371 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by ndisgii View Post

I would assume that moving the tv around to different apartments should not necessarily sway you. Without the option of ISF for really bright environments, I dont see where you can change much to compensate, and it should look good if there is any light control at all. Just throw up some curtains or something if it super duper bright

Pricing for calibrations average $350-$450 for really good calibrators + travel expenses. You may catch a break on the travel expenses if you catch someone doing a tour, but it varies. That would be a good estimate IMO.

thanks for the response, I typically don't like my apartment to be too bright anyway, which is why I am happy with Elite's pure setting for all of my sources for now. when I first called a local AV place around town, they do sell pioneer, but I do not think they have any plasma in their showroom. they wanted to charge me $600, I was like what?! they said it's because of all the equipment. but thanks for that price range. should I think about Magnolia/Best Buy geek squad for $250? I certainly think that the extra $100-$200 is definitely worth it. But I am curious to know if anyone ever had a geek squad calibration before.....
post #1372 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by elite-home View Post

This is not a result of the Picture settings, more than likely you need to go into the input settings for the hdmi input you use and change the RGB setting from Auto to RGB (16-235) this will relieve the grayish tint to the setting and give you the picture you most deserve!!!

Thanks guys. I'll do that tonight and report the results.

It was probably a mistake to comment without testing on more equipment (which was in another room at the time).
post #1373 of 4963
I'm seriously considering pulling the trigger on a KRP-500M to replace the 5010FD in the bedroom; I have a 6020FD in the living room. I received scathing derision for my preference of the dynamic mode (the anathema of a board dedicated to accuracy) on the "non-9G" board and pray that I will be afforded a modicum of clemency here, as I am only after information. Elite, your comparisons were revelatory and much appreciated. At the risk of being lampooned, I'm compelled to ask you: how much better is the KRP-500M than the 5010FD in dynamic mode? Aside from the black level, does the grey scale apportion more detail? How three dimensional does the image look out of the box? How night and day is the difference? Can calibration emulate the high contrast, vivid, highly detailed look of the dynamic mode on other modes? Is there above white, below black clipping? Should I pair it with the Denon3800, regarded as the best quality blu-ray player or stay with the Pioneer BDP 51FD? Any response would be greatly appreciated!
post #1374 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdtv View Post

Thanks guys. I'll do that tonight and report the results.

It was probably a mistake to comment without testing on more equipment (which was in another room at the time).

I was having the same issue, tried this over lunch today and am getting much better Blacks.


Question - should I be doing this for all inputs? What is the significance of this setting (what does it mean)? It appears to be a vital setting.


I'm running my Xbox 360 through Input 2 via component video cables, and my Dish Network DVR via HDMI through Input 6. Input 5 will be used for Blu-Ray once the Oppo is available.

Thanks!
post #1375 of 4963
Sorry for asking this question, as I know this has been covered before in various threads. But...

My 500m is scheduled to arrive tomorrow , and I just want to confirm that it's correct to use the Pioneer 101FD/111FD/141FD/151FD 150 hour break-in settings with Evangelo2's Break-in DVD listed at the start of this thread. Is that right?

Thanks everyone.
post #1376 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody888 View Post

thanks for the response, I typically don't like my apartment to be too bright anyway, which is why I am happy with Elite's pure setting for all of my sources for now. when I first called a local AV place around town, they do sell pioneer, but I do not think they have any plasma in their showroom. they wanted to charge me $600, I was like what?! they said it's because of all the equipment. but thanks for that price range. should I think about Magnolia/Best Buy geek squad for $250? I certainly think that the extra $100-$200 is definitely worth it. But I am curious to know if anyone ever had a geek squad calibration before.....

I would avoid Best Buy/Magnolia calibration like the plague. Heard nothing but bad things about their services. Basically a waste of money. Stick with the pro calibrators that can be found on here. If you are in no hurry, you can get just about any of them at some point or another via tours, or you can just find a locally listed one on here.
post #1377 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by danimals View Post

Sorry for asking this question, as I know this has been covered before in various threads. But...

My 500m is scheduled to arrive tomorrow , and I just want to confirm that it's correct to use the Pioneer 101FD/111FD/141FD/151FD 150 hour break-in settings with Evangelo2's Break-in DVD listed at the start of this thread. Is that right?

Thanks everyone.

Yes. and good luck with the delivery. make sure you check the panel thoroughly, and report back in the shipping damage thread. thanks!
post #1378 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody888 View Post

thanks for the response, I typically don't like my apartment to be too bright anyway, which is why I am happy with Elite's pure setting for all of my sources for now. when I first called a local AV place around town, they do sell pioneer, but I do not think they have any plasma in their showroom. they wanted to charge me $600, I was like what?! they said it's because of all the equipment. but thanks for that price range. should I think about Magnolia/Best Buy geek squad for $250? I certainly think that the extra $100-$200 is definitely worth it. But I am curious to know if anyone ever had a geek squad calibration before.....

yup check turbe's thread on ISF techs that have Pioneer experience, hopefully you can find a good one in your area or that does tours through your area.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1058269

no no no on the bb/geeksquad
post #1379 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by dssturbo1 View Post

yup check turbe's thread on ISF techs that have Pioneer experience, hopefully you can find a good one in your area or that does tours through your area.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1058269

no no no on the bb/geeksquad

Thanks guys for the feedback. I did check into the thread for the one available in my area, and unfortunately there is only 1 for my region. and he is booked over a month, which I really am not in a hurry, cause I wanted to get to the 800 hour mark, to be honest, before I seriously think about calibration. But good to know, well, I guess, bad to know, on geek's squad's reputation! lol, when I was thinking of getting the 111, I asked the sales rep, if the calibration person would do all 3 modes for ISF day/night/auto, she said she has no idea. She shot an email to the "calibration tech", and they said they don't do it. at that point, I kind of knew what we're dealing with here, but still good to get feedbacks from you guys.
post #1380 of 4963
thanks, woody! will do.
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