The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 154  

Are we talking mostly the low level glow from a black screen or overall with normal programming?

Honestly, the biggest advantage I've seen in going for the 500M is in the lack of DSE. My 111 had what I would call light to moderate DSE. It didn't bother me at first but it's become increasingly annoying over time to the point that when conditions are right to see it, I can't tear my eyes away from the problem. The 500M is essentially perfect in this regard, and for me the purchase was worth it for that alone. As I have never seen a 111 that did not suffer from the problem to some extent (most were worse than mine), I'm making a guess that it's been addressed with the "newer tech" panels.

As far as black levels go, the difference is clearly seen on a black screen and while watching lower APL material. The dimmer your room the bigger the difference becomes. I would not, however, sacrifice ISFccc for the improved blacks between the two.

Thus, if you want to make 100% sure that your warranty remains intact, then there'd be little question in my mind that you should keep your Elite.

Your mileage may vary.

Thanks for the clarification. I've decided early on with the 111 that it's so good only perfect blacks are going to make me want another tv. I'm looking forward to that day and only a marginal jump in this area is not worth it to me. I don't want to take a chance on a dead pixel etc. As far as DSE I had it big time on my first 111 and some other issues but not on this panel.

I do not get why Elite owners are upset that the M's got their ISF restored. It was removed at the last minute for crying out load.

I hope the 20's get unlocked, even though I do not have one

- Rich

Ok, issue found with the 500M...

I've got all of my HDMI components going through my AVR (passthrough) and into the TV via HDMI 1.

With RGB set to Auto on HDMI 1, my PS3 works fine. However, upon switching to the cable box (SA 8300HD), the black levels are highly elevated. I have to switch from Auto to 16-235 to get them back to normal. In doing this, the PS3's colors are completely skewed.

How do I set things up so that both sources are correct without my having to constantly toggle the RGB setting back and forth?

Thanks.

Do you need to run the PS3 in RGB 1-254?

Well actually if you do or not you should still check the FAQ.

I've tried setting RGB from the PS3 from Limited to Full and back, and it makes no difference when the 500M is set to 16-235.

Hold on, I may have figured out the problem. Back in a few...

Ok, I switched from YCbCr to RGB and both sources seem fine now when the TV is set for 16-235.

Are there any drawbacks to this approach? Most places I've seen recommend YCbCr for the PS3.

There is a thread here that discusses PS3 HDMI settings ad nauseam, and the PS3 FAQ thread is here. Search for ChrisWiggles' posts in the first thread for information on possible clipping and banding issues when video is remapped to 0-255 on both devices. For games it seems that 0-255 is correct.

Maybe we should add a link to the PS3 FAQ in the KRP FAQ?

I think that's a great idea as it seems to come up often enough. Would be nice to have it all in the same place.

Check the S&M chroma multiburst pattern. My Sony S550 borks it in YCC. That's the motivation for the comment in the FAQ.

Totally dude! An excellent idea.

I'm not really happy yet but this will go in the Monday update.

Q. What are the right settings for my PS3?
a. The PS3 video FAQ discusses this at length but note the RGB bug above. In the Kuro community there is some disagreement. For video range inputs (television, DVD, BD) this should work. There is further commentary here.

-EDITED-
To say it was restored or unlocked infers it was there to begin with. Based on what I've seen myself a more accurate verb is added. This is only speculation on my part.

Looks good to me.

Edit: On second thought, you may want to mention that the PS3 settings can be problematic when another device uses RGB 16-235 on a shared KRP HDMI input via an HDMI switch or AV receiver switch. My understanding (I don't own one) is that on a dedicated HDMI input, the PS3 can be set to use RGB 0-255 for games and YCbCr for video - it will switch between the two, as will the KRP when set on Auto. (How's that for adding to the confusion?)..

Just a question... whats so hard about turning on the AVR and keeping the volume low? A harmony remote will handle all of that with one button press, and be a lot cheaper than a good soundbar.

Thanks for the note/idea.

Q. Speaking of YCC what are the right settings for my PS3?
a. The PS3 video FAQ discusses this at length but note the RGB bug above. In the Kuro community there is some disagreement. For video range inputs (television, DVD, BD) this should work. There is further commentary here. Note that mixing certain devices on the same port (5 or 6) via a switch or AVR may cause problems. If you have the right setup a good solution is to connect the PS3 directly to the KRP and send the audio to your AVR.

There's nothing wrong with that if it suits your habits, your housemates' habits and you're willing to have an ... abomination ... in your house.

Hmmm, was that my outside voice?

I suspect volume isn't the issue for anyone.

Does anyone know what the model number is for the 111FD speakers? Edit: Found it!

There is nothing HARD about turning on the ARV. I do intend to buy a harmony remote.

This idea was not to have all of those systems running if I just want to check the weather, local news or business news before going to work.

i never mentioned a thing about the volume, that is not an issue.

Jim

Drop the coy dance and spit it out. If you're saying what I think you're saying, your post makes no sense in the context of that posters situation. Then again, you could be saying something entirely different than what I think you're saying so again I say.. spit.it.out.

Jim_in_Boston, if it's a question of saving a little electricity, then it's probably a wash comparing the power consumed by a sound bar vs. the receiver.

if it's a question of saving a little wear 'n tear on your receiver by not having as many on/off cycles, well, I'm not sure what the receiver failure data is on that sort of thing and what the cost/benefit is of being more or less discriminating on how often you go through the receiver even for trivial viewing situations; weather, talking head programming, etc.

As far as your speaker system goes, there's really no significant wear on them from more frequent on/off cycles.

I was referring to the Harmony. Not a big fan.

I like to control my remote control and be able to import Pronto files which means editing software and I don't like touchscreens so MX-900 it is (for me). Sadly, like the KRP, the Genesis intended for the custom installer.

Which reminds me, I need to find out if the discrete size switching can work. Anyone know?

Thanks for the feed back on that.

Jim

I know you found a solution but I'm just curious. What make and model # AVR are you using?


Jim

bodosom -

aah, ok then. That wasn't what I thought you might be saying, so you're off my hook.

Many like or prefer Harmony remotes, but many others prefer URC remotes. Nothing too controversial there. I've always wanted to try one of those URC's, but too rich for my blood.

Well the retail pricing does seem unreasonable.

Onkyo TX-SR805.

Hello, Where can I find info on the expected life expectancy of the 500M?

Oh, also, is there a way to make the 500M volume control operate my Yamaha RX-Z7's volume?
Thanks!
Douglas

Abe's of Maine has a good price but i heard they arent the best people to buy from...how true is that????

(where would i talk about this???? not sure if i can talk about such in here)