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Best Room in the House - Page 2

post #31 of 4472
OK tape out 104 x 58 for a 119 16:9 image

then make it 104 x 44 1/4 for a movie. Then you can see where you want to sit and where you need to put your riser to fully enjoy "being at the movies".

A frequent mistake for every first time theater builder is too think too small on the screen size. I made the same mistake.
post #32 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

then make it 104 x 44 1/4 for a movie. Then you can see where you want to sit and where you need to put your riser to fully enjoy "being at the movies".

Makes sense, thank you I will do that tonight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

A frequent mistake for every first time theater builder is too think too small on the screen size. I made the same mistake.

Where were you when I was getting made fun of for wanting a bigger screen?

Believe it or not, this is my second theater and my first was a 100" screen with a room about the same size. I always wished for a bigger screen at that one, I hope I don't do the same here in this one..
post #33 of 4472


Assuming your studs are 16 inches on center your eyeballs will be about 15ft from the screen assuming you push the chairs up close like you said.

When reclined your eyes would be about there that thing is hanging on a stud. That stud is 4 ft in front of the rear wall.
post #34 of 4472
Thread Starter 
I went down and made some measurements - The front of the platform is almost dead center in the room, about 9 1/2 feet from the back wall and the screen. first there is the entrance problem. Here is a pic of the entrance



That's a 4' rough opening for a custom built hidden door (we're doing a double 1/2" plywood door with GG or foam board sandwiched in between, and then the front of it like the picture in my first post). The finished size will be a 3' 6" door.

Anyway, there is about 2 feet between the swing of that door and the platform. It swings towards the screen. Making the main platform 5 feet deeper would mean I would need a step into the room and then the door at that new height. I'm not sure it would work now with the image I'm going for.

Possibly a better solution for my needs would be just to take the curve out of the platform and use the main level in front of the platform the first row of seats. My only concern with that would be whether the screen is too high if the seats are that low. Screen starts about 30" from the floor.

One more questions about the center speaker too - my original plan of placement was just for aesthetics (in the middle of the stage) and I planned to 'angle' the speaker up right to my ears at sitting level. Do you still recommend moving it up?

Here's a pic of the screen wall drywalled with a water bottle on the stage for reference size. The black and gold are me testing my paint colors


post #35 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Possibly a better solution for my needs would be just to take the curve out of the platform and use the main level in front of the platform the first row of seats. My only concern with that would be whether the screen is too high if the seats are that low. Screen starts about 30" from the floor.

At this point, that's probably what I'd do (or curve it back the other way if you can). That'll put your first row of seats at about 9.5' from the screen. If you can cut the riser back a bit and make the first row of seats about 11', I think you'd be better off.

BTW, my room is similar sized (12.5' X 20'). I'm using a 126" screen with seating at 12.5' and 17.5' and the screen size is just about perfect. The actual screen (not the border) is 29" from the floor
post #36 of 4472
I am going to stop nit picking and just let you enjoy this great space. If you decide to go with two rows I would move it up for the reasons I stated earlier.
post #37 of 4472
Could you swing the door out of the room instead of in? Just thinking out loud, and don't know if you have the space. I do really like your doorway idea though, very cool.
post #38 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew4msu View Post

At this point, that's probably what I'd do (or curve it back the other way if you can). That'll put your first row of seats at about 9.5' from the screen. If you can cut the riser back a bit and make the first row of seats about 11', I think you'd be better off.

BTW, my room is similar sized (12.5' X 20'). I'm using a 126" screen with seating at 12.5' and 17.5' and the screen size is just about perfect. The actual screen (not the border) is 29" from the floor

Thanks, I will probably go this route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I am going to stop nit picking and just let you enjoy this great space. If you decide to go with two rows I would move it up for the reasons I stated earlier.

Not nitpicking - I appreciate the help big time! (helps me learn what to do next time too )

I did think of another option - maybe doing the first platform only in the middle 8' of the room with the corners on 45's. The only problem with this is it limits me to only 2 chairs on the first row. If I moved the riser back and was able to curve the other way I could fit three chairs in that first row, but it would be on ground level. From simplicities sake I think this makes the most sense for me at this stage.

I have the theater equipment set up in a spare bedroom and I adjusted the screen to the same height as it would be on ground level for the first row and it wasn't bad. I was comfortable viewing it reclined. I think I prefer about 5 inches down from there as the perfect spot for me, but it wasn't bad.

The bad thing about adding the first row and cutting back the riser is that it puts the second row even further back than it is currently. And if that's where I'll be sitting mostly, I just made my viewing experience worse so that I could have three extra empty seats. Haha, man so many things to think of, I don't know what to do!! I guess I could make the first row my main viewing row but then there's the non optimal screen height issue. Like I said that height is ok, just not as BigMouth called it the sweet spot.

Maybe the additional platform in the middle for two seats is the best option now. I dunno!!! lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc View Post

Could you swing the door out of the room instead of in? Just thinking out loud, and don't know if you have the space. I do really like your doorway idea though, very cool.

I thought of this, but the design of the door has this great thick frame that will really help out with sound. And if it swung the other way I'd lose that frame. Here's some pics of another hidden door I have in my study. This one is only one sheet of plywood and weighs a ton, I can only imagine how much the new one will weigh. Sorry its so bare, we just moved in



post #39 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

The bad thing about adding the first row and cutting back the riser is that it puts the second row even further back than it is currently. And if that's where I'll be sitting mostly, I just made my viewing experience worse so that I could have three extra empty seats. Haha, man so many things to think of, I don't know what to do!! I guess I could make the first row my main viewing row but then there's the non optimal screen height issue. Like I said that height is ok, just not as BigMouth called it the sweet spot.

Understood. I made my front row the sweet spot.

How tall is the existing riser? If you cut it back, couldn't you make a smaller 6" tall platform to put the front row of seats on (like a mini riser)? Then the screen would be at the perfect height.


Or, to get really weird, you could extend the current platform even further toward the screen so that you could place the first row on it. Build a smaller riser on top of it for the rear row.
As for the door, you could have a step up going into the theater (raise the whole door up the height of the riser)
post #40 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post



We drywall next week!

See that bottom part of the door? That could actually be a permenent step and the rest of the "booth" is what opens into the room.
post #41 of 4472
Clever! You could actually even make it come out a little more and it would still look right.
Kind of like a foot rest at the ticket booth.
post #42 of 4472
Exactly.
post #43 of 4472
Thread Starter 
I've been reading up on accoustic panels and I'd like to try to make my own. From what I've read mineral wool or rigid insulation with fabric would work? If I go to home depot - what all do I need to buy? And what type of fabric would I use to cover it? Would a velvet type material work or?

Thanks
Shawn
post #44 of 4472
Thread Starter 
So over the weekend I masked out the screen placement and set up a chair down there. It is not as bad as I thought - both the seat on the platform and in front of it was a very comfortable placement. And the screen didn't seem small. I talked to the contractor and he has everything glued down like crazy and said it would be extremely hard to redo the platform at this point. He did say we could add an additional one on top of it or in front of it. I have a few days to think about it, but I think I'm probably just gonna stuck to what I have now. And the hidden step at the bottom of the door he felt would feel wierd and thinks people would trip on it and figured it wouldnt pass inspection especially if the inspector tripped Thank you very much for the advice on it.
post #45 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I've been reading up on acoustic panels and I'd like to try to make my own. From what I've read mineral wool or rigid insulation with fabric would work? If I go to home depot - what all do I need to buy? And what type of fabric would I use to cover it? Would a velvet type material work or?

Thanks
Shawn


JM Linacoustic RC or semi-rigid fiberglass panels are most commonly used for acoustical panels. Neither tend to be stocked in Home Depot. Linacoustic is sold by HVAC insulation suppliers since it's original purpose is to line ductwork to reduce sound transmission. Johns Manville has a dealer locater on their web site.

Rigid fiberglass panels are available from insulation dealers and sometimes can be special ordered from other building suppliers.

You can get various materials and fabric suitable for DIY panels at www.Sensiblesoundsolutions.com. The operator of that site Bpape has been a poster to this forum.
post #46 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post




Shawn:

That looks really interesting. Can you take a few photos of both sides of the hidden door, as well as send along some photos of the hinge and support mechanism. I'm really interested in how this has been done.

CJ
post #47 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

JM Linacoustic RC or semi-rigid fiberglass panels are most commonly used for acoustical panels. Neither tend to be stocked in Home Depot. Linacoustic is sold by HVAC insulation suppliers since it's original purpose is to line ductwork to reduce sound transmission. Johns Manville has a dealer locater on their web site.

Rigid fiberglass panels are available from insulation dealers and sometimes can be special ordered from other building suppliers.

You can get various materials and fabric suitable for DIY panels at www.Sensiblesoundsolutions.com. The operator of that site Bpape has been a poster to this forum.

Thanks, I found some decent tutorials online to help too. Where do you recommend placing them (height wise). I plan on doing them in between the trim (flat) columns. Should I do them a few inches below the crown molding down to a few inches above the baseboard (entire wall), or just the upper 2/3 of the wall or?

Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Shawn:

That looks really interesting. Can you take a few photos of both sides of the hidden door, as well as send along some photos of the hinge and support mechanism. I'm really interested in how this has been done.

CJ

Sure! This one just uses 4 standard hinges, but with 3" screws. The theater one will either need several more of these hinges or a piano hinge instead.



post #48 of 4472
this may be helpful in deciding where to put your panels:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=acoustic+faq
post #49 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

this may be helpful in deciding where to put your panels:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=acoustic+faq

Thank you - my head hurts from reading all the info on this. So up to ear level is best? I'm assuming that means from floor to ear level?
post #50 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Thank you - my head hurts from reading all the info on this. So up to ear level is best? I'm assuming that means from floor to ear level?

I found the answer, apparently it's from floor to ear level. So I guess I should eliminate the chair rail from the room in case I do acoustic treatments?
post #51 of 4472
There are a number of approaches. 1) hit the key first reflection spot wall mounted approach with others added to balance the look in the room and the manage overall room echos and reverb. , 2) the cover it all with modular wall panels (Gpowers) and 3) the cover all the wall with fabric with Linacoustic for ear level and below and cotton batting above (See Dennis Erskine designed spaces)

If you are just hanging a few panels they can go above ear level and they don't have to go all the way to the floor.

I'm not real sure of your intentions.

Also there is the concept of bass traps which even out the bass response in the room and that is a whole other topic.

Acoustical treatment is a topic that makes my head spin as well and it is difficult to read a thread and decide if the proposed method is a "one size fits all" solution that will work in your space.

There are guys who will model you room and make recommendations for a fee. Bpape for one.

The problem is you are going for a very specific look in your room and not all the recommendations can be accommodated. For instance based on what I've read, general wisdom suggests making the front wall acoustically dead by covering it with acoustical treatment and employing bass traps in the front corners all hid by a acoustically transparent false wall.

I suggested that earlier and you indicated it was too late and too $$ to change at this point.
post #52 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The problem is you are going for a very specific look in your room and not all the recommendations can be accommodated. For instance based on what I've read, general wisdom suggests making the front wall acoustically dead by covering it with acoustical treatment and employing bass traps in the front corners all hid by a acoustically transparent false wall.

I suggested that earlier and you indicated it was too late and too $$ to change at this point.

Thanks - I do see the advantages of doing what you recommended now. The good thing is, and I'm just assuming, that I can always add a false wall and do this in place of my current one if it doesn't turn out the way I had hoped, but I hope I don't have to go that route!

The treatments on the wall - well I could wrap the front wall still and the stage, and then for the treatments on the side walls, I read somewhere that using painters tape to hold up a tshirt or something on the side walls to see if it makes a difference and if it does, put a panel there. No idea if that would actually work?
post #53 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Thanks - I do see the advantages of doing what you recommended now. The good thing is, and I'm just assuming, that I can always add a false wall and do this in place of my current one if it doesn't turn out the way I had hoped, but I hope I don't have to go that route!


One more question about this - I've got 2.5 feet behind my current screen wall, totally just curious here if I went that route, but would it work to remove all the drywall from the front wall and leave the framing and put all the speakers and such in that 2.5 feet of empty space and then wrapped the framing of the front wall, stage etc in GOM instead of the drywall. Would that work, or would all the 2x4's from the framing of the stage and such ruin the sound?
post #54 of 4472
If I were in your shoes I would have the contractor build your room out with straight walls all the way to the front of the room.

To do what you propose would defeat the purpose of putting two layers of drywall on the ceiling and you would be opening the sound up to the bones of the house. Also to leave all that framing in place just gets in the way of where you might want to place the sub.

Then after the room is built, build a stage, false wall, and proscenium to hold the screen, house the speakers and hide the front wall acoustical treatments

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html
post #55 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

Wow that really is a great help - I wish I had seen that earlier. I especially like how he didn't even have to paint the walls, just put the fabric up. Almost makes me want to tear down what I have and start over But I dunno if I can stomach that.
post #56 of 4472
Thread Starter 
So the past couple days we've gotten the stage and rack built and they are going to start the hidden door tomorrow. I'll take pictures of the progress. I also have been looking at fabrics to do on the acoustic panels.

A couple things have come to mind - I'm feeling the urge to "upgrade my system". I'm thinking about upgrading either some or all of it.

If I had to buy these things again (and didn't already buy anything I probably would have bought:

paradigm studio 40's for fronts
" Studio CC-590 for center
Studio ADP-590 for surrounds
Denon 4308 amp
and JVC RS20 for projector

I also would have done the AT screen and hidden all my speakers behind it, but I live and learn.

Anyway, given my current setup - would upgrading to any of these items make a noticeable impact on my outcome? I'm thinking the studio 40's would help a lot for the fronts because they are not rear ported and because I have the recessed cavities. But the other items I am not sure about. Like would I need the more powerful amp? Would I see a huge impact by going to the RS20 over the VW40 etc?

Thanks for the help
post #57 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Just wanted to update - I bought the Paradigm Studio 40's for my fronts and a CC-570 for my center. The 590 was available, but I got the 570 at almost half price so I jumped at it. Actually, I got the 40's at a great price too since they're going out. I compared them at the store with the monitors and center I have now and they are so much clearer. I can hear the dialog so much better, and better sound overall. I think I'm gonna be very happy with these
post #58 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Finally got some pics taken. Today they worked on the columns, the rack and started some trim. It's coming along!! The rack has a removable back and the corbels are for the projector shelf.








post #59 of 4472
looking good!
post #60 of 4472
Thread Starter 
One more update - I ended up contacting Jason at AVS and bought a JVC RS10. I thought it would be a great upgrade from the VW40 while not breaking the bank. I figured the features of the RS20 weren't worth the extra price (to me) especially since I'll probably upgrade in a year or two. So when I get it, I'll post my opinions on the comparison of the two.
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