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Best Room in the House - Page 3

post #61 of 4472
Thread Starter 
So today they opened up the recessed box for the center channel because it's bigger, did some base molding and started on the door! It's looking great. They hung it with their stereo blasting and closed the door and I couldn't hear anything - I'm really happy about that








And trying out some fabric on the panels. I like the black one best, but I'm gonna keep looking.



Also, got my new JVC today!!
post #62 of 4472
Thread Starter 
One more update

I bought a Denon 3808 to replace my 2808. Now I can see the volume on screen
post #63 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Not a lot has happened since the last update since they've been working on other parts of the basement like the bar. But the hidden door is completed, crown added etc. They still have to build the projector shelf a couple small items. Unfortunately, the interior doors for the rest of the basement are delayed and won't be in until mid Feb, so I suspect progress will slow down for a couple weeks I want my house back and get rid of all this dust Oh well.














Oh and I picked out the carpet
post #64 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Then after the room is built, build a stage, false wall, and proscenium to hold the screen, house the speakers and hide the front wall acoustical treatments

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

I am just thinking about it. We had a delay in the progress because the basement doors are in, so we have a 2 week down time. In this down time, I thought, if I wanted to go this route, I could have them redo the front wall now.

My questions are:

1) What kind of microperf screen would you recommend? stewart, smx? And how much are they (120"-130"), approx?

2) How did you attach the GOM covered panels to the false wall - using clips from the hardware store or something?

3) Would I need a more powerful amp since the speakers are behind the false wall?

Thanks
Shawn
post #65 of 4472
Thread Starter 
I thought of another option. I could tear out the current screenwall now and finish, double drywall and "deaden" the wall behind the current screenwall. Then still build a false wall with a few studs, but put the speakers on stands behind this false wall (covered in GOM) on the left, right and bottom of the screen.

So basically it would be the same as doing it the perf screen way, but it would have a normal screen instead. This would solve my image loss concerns, but the only problem is the speakers wouldn't be behind the screen - but it also saves money from buying a new perf screen and it would solve the 'speakers in the cavity' problem. I think I would go to 130"-140" diag either way though. What do you guys think?
post #66 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Well after some thought about it, I'm tearing out the front wall (I should have listened to Big early on )for two/three reasons:

I want or a bigger screen and the current setup limits me at 119".

I want optimal sound and my recessed cavities aren't going to cut it.

I want flexibility to get other speakers and not worry about them fitting.

Basically it's gonna be a false wall with the speakers behind it. I may do an SMX acoustic transparent screen and put the speakers behind that, but if I don't go that route, I'll just put them behind the GOM covered front. Doing a Proline SMX would be about $2k more than a solid screen.
post #67 of 4472
Good move on going AT.

For screen material you could go the DIY route with the Seymour Sheerweave material. Check out the DIY screen section for it. It is the same material that was originally used by SmX. You could build your own screen for about $300-$400 in materials.
post #68 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Good move on going AT.

For screen material you could go the DIY route with the Seymour Sheerweave material. Check out the DIY screen section for it. It is the same material that was originally used by SmX. You could build your own screen for about $300-$400 in materials.

Wow that would be awesome. Although I'm not the handiest guy, is it hard to do and is quality pretty good? I'll check out the DIY forum, thanks.
post #69 of 4472
Only just re-stumbled onto your thread. I recognized your name from your post in my build thread and when I saw your first page I said "Oh, he's the Spider-Man guy." Build is coming along great. I LOVE the swinging movie theater door. Too bad I am nearly done or that would have been tempting. Not to mention that the budget got busted long ago too.
post #70 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I should have listened to Big early on

Cheap source for the fabric:

http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsam...=113044&t=2182

Instructions on the Seymour AV site.

http://www.seymourav.com/articles/DIYFixedFrame.pdf

Note: i see that Seymour is having a sale on the fabric so now their price is the same.

As for your question on attaching fabric panels to the false wall. Velcro works just fine, don't use too much. The panels below and to the sides of the screen can rest on the stage and you just need to hold them upright. Depending on your design the panel above the screen can rest on the screen.

Also this thread may of of interest:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ght=minimalist
post #71 of 4472
I was originally going to do a DIY screen with Sheerweave 4500 but ended up going for the SMX screen.

It was definitely a splurge (about 4-5x the cost of the DIY solutions I was concidering) but the final product is definitely incredible. The fit and finish on the SMX frame is fantastic. After talking about DIY options with my wife for a few weeks, I showed her the SMX site and she was sold (after I was able to haggle a bit with Ruben ).

It was one of those situations were we decided to splurge because we saved enough money in other areas (DIY, deals, etc). Then again, my AE3000 + SMX screen was still a couple hundred under the MSRP for a JVC RS10 (with no screen)... and I should own the screen for many years (which might not be the case for any projector I may have bought).

When we finished assembling the screen she said to me, "No offense, but while I know you could have made a nice screen... it would not have been nearly this good."... I agreed completely.
post #72 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help!! Surprisingly, my contractor is more than willing to change it and thinks it's a good idea (cause it gives so much flexibility)...and he's not charging any extra for it

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

When we finished assembling the screen she said to me, "No offense, but while I know you could have made a nice screen... it would not have been nearly this good."... I agreed completely.

Your wife must know my wife because she would say the EXACT same thing to me

I am not gonna go the DIY route, I think I would worry about it too much and after spending as much as I did on the projector, speakers etc, I don't want the screen to be the weakest link.

So Ive narrowed it down to:

137.7" Proline SMX Weave with speakers behind the screen
or
133" Dalite with speakers on sides and bottom center

The SMX is about twice as much, but as I'm typing this I kind of think if I don't get the SMX I'll regret it and end up buying it and the dalite

The only thing about the SMX is Im afraid of screwing up on attaching the material to the frame since it's more complex than the simple snaps of a dalite. I guess if I go the SMX route, I'll figure it out.
post #73 of 4472
you may want to consider the fixed frame kit from Seymour in the mix, But SMX is the quality champ.
post #74 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

But SMX is the quality champ.

I think I'm gonna with SMX

Ok so I made a drawing of the dimensions of the front wall and drew the screen on:



So basically if I go with a 137.7" diag screen it would leave about 20 1/2 inches on the sides of the screen and about 13 1/4 on the top and bottom (although I may hang it higher or lower depending on seating).

I think that seems like a great size screen, but just for kicks, I figured the sizing on the 149" screen and it would leave 15.5" on the sides and 10.5 on the top and bottom. I think size would be great too, but it may be too much of a stretch for my RS10.

Anyway, if I do the 137.7, I'd put the center speaker dead center of the screen and then the left and rights about a foot in towards the center from the edge of each side of the screen or should I put them in the 20.5" of GOM on the sides of the screen? I guess in the screen would be best so they have more room to breathe?
post #75 of 4472
Have you considered a scope screen?

You could go with a 66"x158" (171" diagonal) 2.37:1 screen which would have a 16:9 viewing area equivalent of a 135" diagonal screen. That would leave you 5" on each side of the screen (including the 3.5" on each side for the screen frame).

This screen would be just barely smaller than the screen you are currently thinking for 16:9 material, but for 2.35:1 material, you'd need a 16:9 screen with a 181" diagonal to match it.

Granted, you'd either need a lens ($$$) or use the 'zoom method' (at least the RS10 has a powered zoom) to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 material... but it's something to consider.

I love my scope screen.
post #76 of 4472
I'd also suggest considering scope as well.
post #77 of 4472
Thread Starter 
I did think about it and the idea of the wide screen sounds really cool

The only negatives with it for me are: The screen is more $$ (I just emailed smx for a price quote so Ill find out how much more), the lens is definitely more $$ and I wonder if the RS10 can handle that big of a picture (if it was 2:35 movie playing for instance)? If I did get it, I would use the zoom function as spending $3-5k more on a lens is out right now. I've surpassed my budgeted promise to the wife $10k ago Would using the zoom show the black bars on the GOM fabric panels (when it bleeds over the screen height on 2:35 movies)?

What size screens do you two have? You both have the panny right?
post #78 of 4472
Thread Starter 
ps jamis - the index really helps

I see you have a 140 diagonal. I can't remember, but I think the panny is even brighter than the rs10?
post #79 of 4472
Thread Starter 
One more question about making the back wall (behind the false wall) dead. I cannot find linacoustic anywhere, tomorrow I'm gonna try some commercial hvac wholesalers to see if they carry it. If they don't I'll just have to use the 4" mineral fiber sheets by JM. They'll be more expensive, but I guess they may be even better than linacoustic? I could also cut in half and make em 2" thick. The only problem is they are yellow, so I'd have to cover them with a cheap black fabric. Argh! Did everyone here use linacoustic?
post #80 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

Have you considered a scope screen?

You could go with a 66"x158" (171" diagonal) 2.37:1 screen which would have a 16:9 viewing area equivalent of a 135" diagonal screen. That would leave you 5" on each side of the screen (including the 3.5" on each side for the screen frame).

This screen would be just barely smaller than the screen you are currently thinking for 16:9 material, but for 2.35:1 material, you'd need a 16:9 screen with a 181" diagonal to match it.

Granted, you'd either need a lens ($$$) or use the 'zoom method' (at least the RS10 has a powered zoom) to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 material... but it's something to consider.

I love my scope screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

I'd also suggest considering scope as well.

I got the price back, the scope is 18% more expensive than the 137.7diag 16:9. If it helps, I watch a lot of tv, (shows like CSI, House, 24, The Unit, etc) and I also watch a lot of movies. I work from home and often will work in the movie theater with a laptop and tv on. So given a ratio of say 50/50 tv to movies what screen would you recommend? The scope screen I guess I would need curtains or something on the sides that can be used as a masking system when watching 16:9.
post #81 of 4472
We watch about 80% TV and 20% movies. We also do not have a masking system. Again, no regrets going scope.

The only caveat is that we couldn't have gone any larger on the 16:9 screen due to the ceiling height, but we still had the width to go scope and not lose any of the 16:9 size.

You COULD go for a larger 16:9 screen.. so there are pluses and minuses to each choice.

Ruben should be able to give you an idea on if the RS10 can handle the screen sizes you are considering.
post #82 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

I'd also suggest considering scope as well.

Me too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I did think about it and the idea of the wide screen sounds really cool

The only negatives with it for me are: The screen is more $$ (I just emailed smx for a price quote so Ill find out how much more), the lens is definitely more $$ and I wonder if the RS10 can handle that big of a picture (if it was 2:35 movie playing for instance)? If I did get it, I would use the zoom function as spending $3-5k more on a lens is out right now. I've surpassed my budgeted promise to the wife $10k ago Would using the zoom show the black bars on the GOM fabric panels (when it bleeds over the screen height on 2:35 movies)?

What size screens do you two have? You both have the panny right?

You could use velvet around the screen to absorb more light than the GOM, but others have more insight on this than I.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

One more question about making the back wall (behind the false wall) dead. I cannot find linacoustic anywhere, tomorrow I'm gonna try some commercial hvac wholesalers to see if they carry it. If they don't I'll just have to use the 4" mineral fiber sheets by JM. They'll be more expensive, but I guess they may be even better than linacoustic? I could also cut in half and make em 2" thick. The only problem is they are yellow, so I'd have to cover them with a cheap black fabric. Argh! Did everyone here use linacoustic?

Try Bryan (bpape). He might have it or something similar.

http://sensiblesoundsolutions.com/
post #83 of 4472
On finding Linacoustic you need to go to the JM web site and look on there dealer locater for commercial HVAC insulation supplies. It should tell you who is likely to carry the product in your area.
post #84 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

We watch about 80% TV and 20% movies. We also do not have a masking system. Again, no regrets going scope.

Thanks - do you have a lens or do you zoom? I would use the zoom method and curtains for masking until I was willing to pony up the extra $$ for those two. Do you just watch 16:9 with no masking in place then? How does it look?

Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

You could use velvet around the screen to absorb more light than the GOM, but others have more insight on this than I.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

On finding Linacoustic you need to go to the JM web site and look on there dealer locater for commercial HVAC insulation supplies. It should tell you who is likely to carry the product in your area.

Yeah I found that yesterday and am gonna call some local ones today. I called one yesterday that was listed under commercial suppliers (not neccessarily hvac) and asked them about it and they said linawhat?
post #85 of 4472
Thread Starter 
So I measured the 150" wide 2:35 scope screen and it would leave 5" inches on the sides and 15" on top and bottom. The whole wall would be a biiiig screen

It's 16:9 image would be almost the same size as the 120" 16:9 screen.
post #86 of 4472
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

So I measured the 150" wide 2:35 scope screen and it would leave 5" inches on the sides and 15" on top and bottom. The whole wall would be a biiiig screen

It's 16:9 image would be almost the same size as the 120" 16:9 screen.

That makes the decision easy right?

The whole front wall is a screen, doesn't get any better than that!
post #87 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

That makes the decision easy right?

The whole front wall is a screen, doesn't get any better than that!

Haha, yeah it sure sounds nice and it would definitely never leave me wanting for a bigger screen

I'm afraid if I don't get the scope now that I'm going to want to down the road and have to replace the screen again.

On the other hand, Im afraid if I buy the scope I'll end up buying a masking system and ana lens I'll just have to promise myself to use the zoom method for as long as I can
post #88 of 4472
Thread Starter 
I found Linacoustic! Thanks Big. Prices I got are:

1 x 47 x 100 - $195.00

1 x 59 x 100 - $244.50

Is just one layer (1") enough for the back wall?
post #89 of 4472
Awesome build.....love the door. I plan to have our door into the theater mimic a ticket, but probably not as jaw-dropping.

I think the one layer should be good on the back wall, but BIGmouth or chinadog, or Dennis would know how to address that much better than I would.

looking good.


Sean
post #90 of 4472
Thread Starter 
Thanks Sean.

Ok several updates - I bought the SMX 2:35 150" wide Proline CineWeave!! It's gonna be awesome It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I figured it was a smart move because it allows me the most flexibility in the future, ie if I ever wanted to go 2:35 and I only had a 16:9, I'd have to buy yet another screen.

And If I set this up and for whatever reason don't like the 2:35 zoomed, I can always just leave it masked all the time as a 16:9 and it would be the same as a 16:9 screen with the advantage of looking much cooler when the projector is off So thank you to all that helped me go with the scope!! I'm already glad I did

And today I bought a roll of linacoustic! I had to drive like 1 1/2 hours there and back, but I think it'll be worth it.

They also tore down my old front wall, kind of sad actually, but I think the end product is going to be so much better!! Tomorrow is framing, wiring, and insulating the new back and side dead walls, then drywall!

A couple questions though - is there anything I need to do special on this back wall? I wanna do it right the first time (actually the second but who's counting).

And second, that false wall that is there now is actually from the old front wall. So we might just keep that one there and remove a few of the vertical 2x4's. My question is, that space behind the false wall is 27" from the back of the 2x4 to the front of the concrete. So once the back wall is framed it will be about a 23" space, or 27" if you count to the back side of the screen. Is that enough dead space?









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