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NEW Plasma Break-In Images - Page 4

post #91 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by hc2 View Post

we do a "proxy" watch by running break-in's, kind of having our cake and eating it too.

and I thought Oprah was bad
post #92 of 174
My 5020FD went through the first 150 hours largely nonstop...back in October and has suffered no ill consequences.
post #93 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by webapalooza View Post

Wow -- really? I wonder why? It's certainly not because it takes 7 seconds to load the images into memory -- the burn-in images are very small, only 33K each! Might there be a setting where you can adjust the delay between images?

Not at all...just a software "bug" on Pioneer's part. Talk about an extended break-in period.
post #94 of 174
As a result of that 7-second delay between image switching, I'm wondering if it would be detrimental to the Kuro to expand the duration to 30 seconds, much like is commonly done with the Evangelos break-in images.
post #95 of 174
Thread Starter 
At long last, I finally finished an article explaining the color theory and methodology behind the break-in images I created. For those of you who are interested, please visit:

http://www.webapalooza.com/plasma/index.php

Thanks!
post #96 of 174
Hey I found your images (120) was actually asking questions about them in another thread. Didn't know you were on here. (I actually e-mailed you this question too)
The question was about blacks? What is the point of having a black image if it doesn't do anything with plasma? (or does it?).

Do you have any evidence that using more colors results in a better picture? Or more what is the point of showing the secondary colors (and so forth) when the primary should break in the plasma enough? Right?
post #97 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubaloth View Post

Hey I found your images (120) was actually asking questions about them in another thread. Didn't know you were on here. (I actually e-mailed you this question too)
The question was about blacks? What is the point of having a black image if it doesn't do anything with plasma? (or does it?).

Do you have any evidence that using more colors results in a better picture? Or more what is the point of showing the secondary colors (and so forth) when the primary should break in the plasma enough? Right?

Reading through some of what you have up was interesting, but I was looking for an answer to my question and I found it. It was on page 15
"we cycle down to 100% black in order to give the phosphors a rest."
That is what I was thinking or figured out, but wasn't sure.
post #98 of 174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubaloth View Post

Do you have any evidence that using more colors results in a better picture? Or more what is the point of showing the secondary colors (and so forth) when the primary should break in the plasma enough? Right?

The point of breaking in your plasma TV is not to get a "better picture", any more than the point of breaking in a new car is to get a "better engine". The point is to use the phosphors as evenly as possible, to ensure they have all been "aged" equally. This makes them more resistant (but not impervious) to IR.

Breaking in a plasma is especially important if you intend to have it ISF-calibrated. A good calibrator won't even calibrate a plasma TV until it has displayed at least 100-200 hours of full-screen content. This is because the phosphors of a brand new plasma burn differently than they do after a few hundred hours of use, just as a new light bulb will usually burn brightly early on before it finds its level.

So, in summary, the idea of break-in is to get through the first 100-200 hours as carefully as possible, utilizing all of the phosphors as evenly as possible. Since you can't control the content shown on cable or satellite, the best way to do this is with pure color break-in images.

And, the reason I used all the color variations was to "put the phosphors through their paces" (so to speak), by ramping them up and down through the many stages of their power cycles in various combinations. This simulates real-life usage, whereas just putting up a single colored slide (or rotating between a few different colored slides) would not.

Taking the car analogy a step further, you could argue that driving it at either 20, 40, or 60 miles per hour for the first few weeks will break the car in just fine, but the idea of break-in is to expose the car (or plasma) to as much variation as possible early in its life. So driving the car around town for a few weeks at dozens of different speeds between 0 and 60 will be better for the car than just driving it at 3 different speeds the entire time.

A lot of this is conjecture, of course, and some will argue it's not even necessary. But the images are free, they are easy to use (just set them to cycle all night while you sleep or all day while you're at work), and you can be assured that -- used properly -- they will never cause any type of IR on your set because they are solid in color and match the dimensions of today's HDTVs (1080x1920).

I wish I had $1 for every person who has e-mailed me in a panic, asking if my break-in images will repair the "burn-in" that their kids created on their new plasma TV by watching letter-boxed movies all weekend long. (Answer: eventually, yes, but only if you ensure the images are full-screen and set to rotate. The scrolling bar will also work if used enough times, as will watching full-screen content for a few days or weeks, depending on how bad the IR is.)
post #99 of 174
If I am going to use D-Nice's post break in settings, I should probely use the Evangelos Angelides images right, considering thats what D-Nice used to break in for 150 hours, His setting might not look the same if I used other break in images.

Somebody please tell me if I am right or wrong.
post #100 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by parker4983 View Post

If I am going to use D-Nice's post break in settings, I should probely use the Evangelos Angelides images right, considering thats what D-Nice used to break in for 150 hours, His setting might not look the same if I used other break in images.

Somebody please tell me if I am right or wrong.

In theory you are right. with different break in process D-Nices settings might not be 100%. But even if you did use the other break in images and the settings, it still might not be 100% TV's are a little different, your lighting could be different.

I don't plan on using D-Nice and just leave it. I'll start with D-Nice settings (when he gets them posted) and tweak after that anyways. So which set of images you use doesn't really matter, unless you just plan on trusting his settings and never changing it.
post #101 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zookster View Post

Wow! These are great! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the links. I'll look for the 1920x1080 images, but if I find some I really like in a smaller size, I'll see how successfully I can upscale them in Photoshop.

Edit: Say, I noticed these each have a little credit on the bottom left edge. Not to be overly paranoid about BI/IR, but are you cropping these out before you use them, or do you have an overscan setting on your TV that pushes them outside of the frame of your TV? It would be nice to have the beauty of the photo unmarred by the graphic regardless.

I'm surprised you don't know how to get rid of that credit in the corner, if you use Photoshop. How about a cloning stamp, for example?
post #102 of 174
What should I set my slide show to time wise for these images? How many seconds per image?

Thanks web!
post #103 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guerillah View Post

What should I set my slide show to time wise for these images? How many seconds per image?

Thanks web!

+1

I was just going to ask this...
post #104 of 174
does breaking in a plasma have any effect on the uniformity of the screen?

or is the uniformity just going to be the way it is out of the box no matter what content you put on screen or how you break in the panel?

I recently bought a kuro 5020 and broke it in with the dnice images- and the uniformity was pretty uneven. I am having that set replaced for several reasons, but i would like to avoid having an screen with uniformity issues-

the one i had, looked to have a light coming out of the bottom center of the panel in a all dark room-
post #105 of 174
I can not download these break in images because my web browser can not find webapalooza site so is there any other way or any other site for downloading these images.
post #106 of 174
Is it better to run the 20 slide break-in or the 120 slide break-n DVD.

Is one better than the other?
post #107 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdgodfrey88 View Post

Is it better to run the 20 slide break-in or the 120 slide break-n DVD.

Is one better than the other?

I like this one. It depends if you believe that a broader spectrum of colors will help stimulate/exercise the phosphors more during break-in.

webapalooza - Any logic as to why your read me file suggests a 10 second slide transition time vs. 30 secs suggested by some others ?
post #108 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOG9 View Post

Thanks for the new images. Very well done.

So I remember that I read about this a while back, but I want to bring it up again to see what you guys think. Say you run these images for ten seconds each (as the creator suggests in the readme file "It is suggested - although not required - that you set the transition delay to no longer than 10 seconds per image. This will ensure that no pixel be required to exert its full power for more than 2 minutes at a time."), and on the Pioneer plasmas, there is an approximate seven second delay between the images when switching from one image to the next, then for every 17 hours this is run, you are really only exercising the pixels for ten hours. The other seven hours the screen is blank because of the transition between the colors.

After 100 hours of running these, you have really only had the images on the screen for about 59 hours.

This was just a thought that some might want to keep in mind when they are totaling-up the break-in hours.

I see knowbody has responded to this. is this accurate?
post #109 of 174
I cannot get the slides to fill the entire screen on my B560. Any suggestions?
post #110 of 174
Stretch the image to fit the screen. Under picture options, should be an option for it.
post #111 of 174
Quote:


Originally Posted by SOG9
Thanks for the new images. Very well done.

So I remember that I read about this a while back, but I want to bring it up again to see what you guys think. Say you run these images for ten seconds each (as the creator suggests in the readme file "It is suggested - although not required - that you set the transition delay to no longer than 10 seconds per image. This will ensure that no pixel be required to exert its full power for more than 2 minutes at a time."), and on the Pioneer plasmas, there is an approximate seven second delay between the images when switching from one image to the next, then for every 17 hours this is run, you are really only exercising the pixels for ten hours. The other seven hours the screen is blank because of the transition between the colors.

After 100 hours of running these, you have really only had the images on the screen for about 59 hours.

This was just a thought that some might want to keep in mind when they are totaling-up the break-in hours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I see knowbody has responded to this. is this accurate?

The seven second delay between showing one image to the next doesn't sound right to me. The screen is actually blank for seven seconds between images ? I don't think so.

I have a Panny not a Pioneer, but in Picture/slideshow medium mode it shows the image on the screen for 10 secs and then takes about a milli-second to switch to the next image. To the human eye the screen is never blank when switching images. So total time where an image is displayed would be 100 hours not 59.
post #112 of 174
We have three plasmas in our house now.
None have had any "break in". Unless you count non-stop gaming as a break in.
All work perfectly and do just what they were designed to.
Maybe some chanting would also work?
post #113 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricky_rocket View Post

The seven second delay between showing one image to the next doesn't sound right to me. The screen is actually blank for seven seconds between images ? I don't think so.

I have a Panny not a Pioneer, but in Picture/slideshow medium mode it shows the image on the screen for 10 secs and then takes about a milli-second to switch to the next image. To the human eye the screen is never blank when switching images. So total time where an image is displayed would be 100 hours not 59.

While the Panasonic does instantly switch to the next image, but my friend's Pioneer 6020 (via USB memory stick) acts differently - it has a long delay between images and the screen goes black for several seconds (i don't think it was quite 7 seconds, but it's been a while and i didn't time it). What your Panasonic does has no bearing on what the Pioneer does - they both do it differently.
post #114 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

While the Panasonic does instantly switch to the next image, but my friend's Pioneer 6020 (via USB memory stick) acts differently - it has a long delay between images and the screen goes black for several seconds (i don't think it was quite 7 seconds, but it's been a while and i didn't time it). What your Panasonic does has no bearing on what the Pioneer does - they both do it differently.

So what he said is correct? i dont think its 7 seconds, its more like 3 or less. thats what i see when i run slides on my 151.
post #115 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

So what he said is correct? i dont think its 7 seconds, its more like 3 or less. thats what i see when i run slides on my 151.

My 111 has between 6.8 and 7.0 seconds of black screen between images. I just got the stopwatch out again to verify it.
post #116 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by optivity View Post

Like running the Break-in DVD with your new $5000 PDP for 100s of non-stop-hours makes more sense because some anonymous individual you chatted with in an Internet forum told you to.

I dont know who you are.. but I couldnt agree more. Its just silly.

If I could fit your above quote in my signature I would.
post #117 of 174
Hey guys,
I'm at about 30 hours break in using the 20 EA slides posted on his site. Would there be any harm to download these 120 images and start using them after already starting the break-in process using the EA slides? Also, I have a Panasonic and am using D-Nice's high brightness settings, are there any suggested settings for these break-in slides? I can't really think how it could hurt but any advice would be appreciated.
post #118 of 174
I'm getting a new S1 Panny tomorrow.

I don't want to just use the break in slides for the first two weeks. Can I watch full screen, varied TV (w/o any gaming) and then use the slides at night or when I'm work?

Thanks,

NB
post #119 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by nbpc View Post

I'm getting a new S1 Panny tomorrow.

I don't want to just use the break in slides for the first two weeks. Can I watch full screen, varied TV (w/o any gaming) and then use the slides at night or when I'm work?

Thanks,

NB

Yes. Breaking it in doesn't mean you can't watch it, it just helps when you aren't using the tv.
post #120 of 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by webapalooza View Post

At long last, I finally finished an article explaining the color theory and methodology behind the break-in images I created. For those of you who are interested, please visit:

http://www.webapalooza.com/plasma/index.php

Thanks!

Thanks for your work... I preferred using these images on my KRP-500M for the break-in.
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