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Samsung DMD board replacement - Page 5

post #121 of 845
Catbird,If in doubt take the back panel off and check thenumbers on the light engine.....or if really in doubt, go ahead and take the light engine out and compare your dmd chip to the pictures I posted (mine was the pb02 light engine) and be sure and download Pez's assembly and disassembly manual, it shows both 01 and 02 versions of the light engine. All the info is around here.

Also, the full model off the back of your set will be a big help to you when you start this process. Take your time and it'll work out.
post #122 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by PezJunkie View Post

BP96-01670A is a DMD board. It has a socket where the DLP chip (DMD panel) plugs in, but it does not include the DLP chip. If you're having the white spot/stuck mirror problem, then that is the wrong part.

On either of those sites, go to the list of all parts for your model and search for "DLP". The part that shows up when I look is 4719-001981. (same as the PB02 version of my set.)

The DMD board listed for your TV appears to be different than the one for mine, so the directions from my TV may or may not be helpful... I can't promise anything.

This is why I ask questions, thanks again to Pez and Naseqp. So what I need is the DLP chip to go into the DMD board? Yes my set is having the problem with all the stuck white pixels.
Catbird
post #123 of 845
Thread Starter 
CATBIRD -

the pin configuration on the DLP for the PB01 version units is different from the PB02 version units, so make sure the DLP is for the correct version.

As I recall PEZ's unit was a PB02 version....
post #124 of 845
So what will be the one for the PA01?
I dont see anything up there
Cat and myself have the same one!
post #125 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by StickerDude View Post

So what will be the one for the PA01?
I dont see anything up there
Cat and myself have the same one!

The DLP chip / DMD Panel is part # 4719-001981, this is what comes up when I put in the complete model number and this is the one I'm going to order from samsung, if it's wrong I'll be returning.
Catbird
post #126 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by CATBIRD View Post

The DLP chip / DMD Panel is part # 4719-001981, this is what comes up when I put in the complete model number and this is the one I'm going to order from samsung, if it's wrong I'll be returning.
Catbird

Yea that the same thing I got written down But I got confused about the PB01 PB02 PA01 thing cuz it doesnt show anything like that!
Thanks You
post #127 of 845
Thread Starter 
After working on a bunch of other items, I finally returned to install the DLP engine in my HL-S4666W PB02 unit.

For others with this unit, please be aware that the configuration of the heat sink on the DLP panel is different from PeZJunkies unit but easily removable. I also found that the last of the cables that needed to removed - on the top of the DMD board- were impossible to remove, and so like others I lifted the DMD board up and stuck the DPL panel into its slot. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT TOUCH THE DLP with your finger tips since this is awkward to insert it upside down in the DMD board !

Just like everyone else the replacement removed all the white pixels !

The picture is really excellant !

Joe
post #128 of 845
Thread Starter 
After taking the bad micromirror chip out I was looking at it carefully with an eye loup (a magnifying glass that jewelers and watchmakers use).

If you look for reflections off the chip and rotate the chip a bit you can see tiny bright spots where the stuck mirrors are that are at a different angle than the normal mirrors.
post #129 of 845
Good to hear you're back in action Joe...
post #130 of 845
thanks for all the great information up here, guys.

in case someone is reading this thread and is collecting information, i bought my HL-S4666W in November 2006 and just got my first white spot a few weeks ago in March 2009. looks like mine lasted slightly longer than some of yours, but with the same results. i now have eleven white spots on my screen, and will probably see white spot #12 when i get home tonight.

a home repair might be in the works for me, too! will let the board know how it goes if i do go that route.
post #131 of 845
Joe and Pez,

First off, I can't tell you how thrilled I am to read this thread. I've talked about this ALL day long. Thank you for the research that you have done so that we don't have to spend 900 dolars to get our tv working like new.

Anyway, I too have the dots on my Sammy hls4266w. Some stay lit all the time, some twinkle like a star! Whatever the case is, they are spreading like chicken pox. So with that said, I do have some questions.

1. the manuals you posted, which one is the correct file to tear apart the tv for this job? Also, will this manual work for my tv hls4266

2. this is a tricky one How certain can one be that this will fix my problem? It doesn't seem to be dust related as I thought I saw mention that the chip has a plastic covering on it.

3. Can you tell me how to get into the service menu? Or point me in a direction to get that info?

4. Any helpful hints that will help me on my journey

5. Also, did any of you notice if it's a 12 volt fan or a 120v ac fan that cools the chip. I'm thinking the heat maybe the problem and I was thinking changing the fan out on it.


BTW what do you guys think about watercooling the chip lol

Thnaks
post #132 of 845
Thread Starter 
Bremlin,

How stupid am I .... I should have looked more carefully at the fan to see if there were any model numbers or speds on it when I repaired my DLP ! In fact I should have tested the fan too to make sure it was working before sealing up the tv compartment! The fan is a bit skimpy, so a replacement to a higher capaity would make sense and probably cause more noise. As I recall reading somewhere, some of the earlier units did have noisy fans, so maybe the newer models has smaller/quieter fans of lower capacity???

In regards to the fan power, it is not an AC power line but a low voltage line. Pez's manual may indicate whether it is a

Joe
post #133 of 845
Hey, great news that you got yours fixed too, Joe!
post #134 of 845
samsung now wants me to get a repair estimate then fax them the information before they will consider my case in Case Management. seeing as how it's somewhere around or over $100 to get an estimate around here, and how that's money that will never be paid back no matter what, and how i find it unlikely that Samsung honor their product by agreeing to fix it, i am preparing to take matters into my own hands.

so, Joe, since i have the same model tv as you (HLS4666W), i wanted to ask you a few questions:

1. i've read on this thread that a part needs to be changed but i'm unclear as to specifically which part it is. DLP or DMD? i have the scattered white spots like most people have been commenting about.
2. where can i get a copy of the service manual or some other guide with detailed instructions on how i can change this part myself?

any other comments, hints or suggestions would be welcome, too.
post #135 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by olschl View Post

Wow!! After several fruitless nights of searching, I was beginning to think I was never going to find an economical solution to my "white pixel" problem on my Samsung 50" DLP. From what I have read in this post, I assume PezJunkie's fix would apply to me? My DLP's numbers are as follows: Model #HLS5065WX/XAA; Serial #B1C93CKLC00556D; Version #PB02. PezJunkie, does this mean I would need the same chip as you? If not, could you help me determine which chip I need? Also, I currently only have (3) dead pixels and (1) flickering but others are starting to flicker. Should I wait and see how many go bad before pursuing the fix or is it all downhill from here? I did buy this unit at Sam's Club in March of 2007 on the Sam's Discover card so maybe I should pursue this through them. Anyone have an idea of how Sam's Club would handle this? A lot of questions I know but the economic situation has hit close to home and a new TV is not in my near future.

Chuck

How great is the internet! After spending 2 nights randomly searching for an answer to my "dead" pixel problem about 6 weeks ago and finding nothing more than a bunch of other people with my same issue, I thought to try the AVS forums. I had done some research on my Onkyo receiver on this site a few years ago and remembered it being populated with highly intelligent people so I gave it a shot for no reason other than that and what did I find but Joe's original post describing my exact problem! I followed the thread until Pez found the solution and was successful in his repair and after some encouragement and help from Pez via Private Message, I took the plunge, bought the chip did the install myself two weeks ago. I have been somewhat afraid to post my success as I keep thinking that first pixel is going to appear but I guess I'll have to get over that. In any case, a hearty "Thank You" to Joe and Pez for running this issue to ground and saving all of us a lot of money. If either of you are ever in Tulsa, look me up and the first beer is on me! PM me as required!

On another note, I wanted to relay a couple of observations that came out of my repair. First off, although I am by no means a designer of electronic gear, I am very familiar with cooling CPU chips having spent a portion of my youth overclocking processors and I can tell you the existing heatsink and fan setup on my DLP was obviously an afterthought and extremely undersized. The fan itself is almost useless without a shroud around the heatsink to focus the airflow through the fins. Also, I don't know how you guys were able to replace the chip and NOT have to go through the alignment procedure! This took the most time in getting right as it was the first time to do it but is still a rather crude setup for aligning an otherwise marvel of engineering. Second, once reassembled and aligned, I do have an artifact showing up in all dark scenes and I am sure it is a spec of dust or something I failed to clean although I was very careful. Triple check all your lenses before reassembling! Thirdly, has anyone messed with the focus at all? I have read the procedure, can locate the mechanism but have not been able to affect the focus one bit although I seem to be turning some portion of the lens. The instructions aren't explicit as to which part should rotate and I could NOT get the grooved ring to budge in either direction. Maybe it is a more critical eye I am viewing with now but my analog cable signal seems "fuzzier" than before. HD and Blue Ray are as stunning as ever so I think it is just my imagination running wild on me. No HD cable to check against unfortunately. Well, I can't imagine most will make it to the end of this post but I felt the need to express my gratitude to everyone out there who takes the time to not only figure a problem out, but to post their finding and help others along as well. Thanks again!!

Chuck

P.S. I meant to post this link for where I found the cheapest DMD chip: http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?4719-001981
See the following link for a cool demo of DLP technology!: http://www.dlp.com/includes/demo_flash.aspx
post #136 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by olschl View Post

Also, I don't know how you guys were able to replace the chip and NOT have to go through the alignment procedure!

During the repair, I never touched the screws that you loosen to do the tilt alignment/adjustment... Maybe yours was already a little bit loose and doing the repair was enough to knock it out of alignment?
post #137 of 845
Hey folks,

Just a little FYI for ya. My GF was doing some searching and found that some people filing complaints with the NJ BBB (I guess that's where Samsung's HQ is) were getting their sets fixed compliments of Samsung. I can't confirm or deny that this actually works but it's worth a shot. She said that she too filed a complaint So I guess we'll see what happens. I've already ordered a chip, and it finally shipped yesterday after 3 weeks of being on back order. I would post some links but I have no idea how she found all the info. You'll just have to do some creative googling I guess.

After 4 weeks my white dots have grown from 1 on day 1 to 26 last night at last count. I had 6 new dots total yesterday so they're really starting to add up quickly. Thankfully my new chip will be here on Thursday and hopefully I can end the madness.

Cheers!
post #138 of 845
This is what mine is doing:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...9&d=1238946844

Anyone else have this issue?
post #139 of 845
With a repeating pattern like that, my first guess would be DMD board... but I don't really have any way to know that for sure.
post #140 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by PezJunkie View Post

With a repeating pattern like that, my first guess would be DMD board... but I don't really have any way to know that for sure.

as opposed to the DMD chip? and is that what's listed as DLP on the parts sites? i'm still trying to figure out from this post whether i need a DLP (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLS4666W) or a DMD Board (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLS4666W). which did you replace? you had the scattered white spots, right?
post #141 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by hahn74 View Post

as opposed to the DMD chip? and is that what's listed as DLP on the parts sites? i'm still trying to figure out from this post whether i need a DLP (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLS4666W) or a DMD Board (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLS4666W). which did you replace? you had the scattered white spots, 086Wright?

Yes, I had white spots and replaced the DLP Chip (DMD Panel). (part# 4719-001981)

BTW - if you have the Type X/PB02 version of the HSL4666w, then the correct DMD Board is part number BP96-01636A. (Not the BP96-01580A you linked... that's the Type A/PB01 version.)

Go to http://drop.io/HLS5086W and download the "Parts code list for each DMD Panel type.xls" file. It has part numbers as well as a page about diagnosing a defective DMD board. Your exact issue doesn't show up in the examples, so I can't say for sure... but it seems similar.
post #142 of 845
I, too, got wammied from my Sammy. I've got a HLS 5686W that I purchased back in Nov 2006 and now has the permanent night sky as a background. But ya gotta love the internet and its ability to transmit info to anywhere in a blink of an eye. With that said, Joe and Pez, you guys ROCK! I knew this set could be fixed, but you guys detailed it to the knat's as#! I'll be purchasing the DMD *Panel* and am quite confident this will fix it. Crazy as it sounds, the replacement set I bought a few months back was another 56' Sammy, only the 1080 model. Of course, there was a method to my madness (was confident I could fix the old one for about $200, but convinced my wife we needed the new 1080 model!). With some luck, I'll soon have two 56 dlp sets for a total of $2300, about the price of a smaller LCD set. I was stuck, too, because we have a built in entertainment center with a front panel that was custom fit to the 56" Samsung. The new one fits right in, but I had hoped that the old one would last a wee bit longer than the 2 years it did, but if $200 bucks fixes these things, I can handle that every couple of years until something better comes along. I'll definetely look at providing better cooling to the DMD panel and accessories, too.
Wish me luck, and thanks again, for all the great info!
post #143 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by olschl View Post

......,In any case, a hearty "Thank You" to Joe and Pez for running this issue to ground and saving all of us a lot of money. If either of you are ever in Tulsa, look me up and the first beer is on me! PM me as required!
........,

Chuck

I second that. In fact, if you guys are in Tulsa, I will buy you dinner and drinks. My DMD is on its way and I hope it fixes my problem.

Btw, when is a good time to replace the lamp in the TV (5086 model)? Mine has been running for ~3900 hrs.
post #144 of 845
First I want to say thank you to naseqp, Joe Demuth, and PezJunkie for all of the info you've provided thus far.

I also have a Samsung hls5086w that has white spots on the screen. We bought the TV 11/06, and the spots started appearing about two weeks ago. The TV is in our living room, and rarely used. We spend most of our time in family room where our kids can play, and I don't have to worry about things getting broken.

Naseqp, can you tell me how to get the lamp time from the service menu?

What other info do you need? Where do I find all of the TV info again?

PezJunkie can you PM me a copy of the service manual stuff you have?
post #145 of 845
About 90 minutes and I had the t.v. back up and going! It's great! At times I think that the picture could be out of focus, but it could just be my eyes getting used to not getting around the dots...*shrug*.

As a side note, I would recommend taking that pad off the heatsink and putting some thermal paste on it. Those pads are mostly useless, and maybe putting some decent thermal paste on there might help the heat exchange a bit. I've been building computers for a while and with the overclocking guys getting the right paste in the right amount is critical. I've seen 10°C drops by removing those stock pads and putting a good thermal paste on there. Arctic Silver I think is what I had sitting around.
post #146 of 845
If DLP Technology has been used in other TV like Toshiba and Mitsubishi, are they having failure rates like this? The only thing we have in common is the spots and the amount of time the TV has been in service. The amount of time the TV has been used (lamp time) varies on a vast scale. Like I said.the TV is hardly ever used. The lamp has 996 hrs on it. Others have over 5000 hrs. Maybe this is a design flaw in the heat sinks the Samsung unit, one that I might want to fix before spending time in money on a repair the might have to be replicated 2 years from now. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all of the help, but I don't want to have another club meeting in the future.

Hahn, did you have any luck with Samsung. We faxed our info, and we were suppose to hear back from Case Management today..but all we got we nadda.
post #147 of 845
Like I posted previously, I feel inadequate heat removal is at the root of our issue and, like others, I removed the "thermal pad" from the heat sink and replaced with a quality thermal paste. I do believe this will help significantly as the factory "thermal pad" appeared to be more of an insulator than anything else. For $165 fix, I have already bought and extra chip and plan to see how the thermal paste fix lasts.
post #148 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by NASFD35 View Post

If DLP Technology has been used in other TV like Toshiba and Mitsubishi, are they having failure rates like this? The only thing we have in common is the spots and the amount of time the TV has been in service. The amount of time the TV has been used (lamp time) varies on a vast scale. Like I said.the TV is hardly ever used. The lamp has 996 hrs on it. Others have over 5000 hrs. Maybe this is a design flaw in the heat sinks the Samsung unit, one that I might want to fix before spending time in money on a repair the might have to be replicated 2 years from now. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all of the help, but I don't want to have another club meeting in the future.

Hahn, did you have any luck with Samsung. We faxed our info, and we were suppose to hear back from Case Management today..but all we got we nadda.

There's multiple people that believe this is a heat related problem and therefore could be center around one generation of TV sets. I am also going to look into cooling the set better if possible. I'll be doing the thermal paste thing and looking at replacing the fan with something that puts in more air. I will also take a look at the orientation of the fan too. If it's pushing air directly out of the tv, then it's taking warm air and trying to cool the chip. I imagine the outside tempature will be much cooler and will then turn the fan around and force it to pull the air from outside the TV and directly on the chip
post #149 of 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by gremlin190 View Post

I'll be doing the thermal paste thing and looking at replacing the fan with something that puts in more air. I will also take a look at the orientation of the fan too. If it's pushing air directly out of the tv, then it's taking warm air and trying to cool the chip. I imagine the outside tempature will be much cooler and will then turn the fan around and force it to pull the air from outside the TV and directly on the chip

Please let me know what you come up with and/or find out. I think I'm going to explore my options better before I jump in and replace the chip without figuring out why it happened.
post #150 of 845
small update ... I purchased the chip from ebay for less than $200 and over the weekend I replaced the broken chip. No more white dots ... my tv is back. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and helped me resurrect my television.
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