The Harmony 1100 Owner's Thread... - Page 36

Alright guys I got my remote set up pretty good and it works great with the hot link. I didnt use the cat5 cable to my projector because it seems to work great now bouncing it off the screen.

My next plan is to add the two switches in my home theater with Lutron Maestro ir switches. I have a direct line of sight of the switches, but I would have to point my remote to the left of where I sit. Should I put those on rf instead? If so, what switches should I buy? I would prefer that both switches turn off and on with one button press and have the ability to fade to off.

I also want to control the rest of my basement lights. Those are on three switches at the other side of my basement with two walls in between and about 25 feet away. This tells me that I need RF switches to do this. I would prefer that I press a button and all three switches turn the lights on and off. What switches do I need to buy, and I will also need the logitech rf extender right?

Last question. Is there a way to control my thermostat from the remote without having to run any new wires to it? If so what do I need?

Try out the Maestro switches before bothering with the RF... at my old house my Maestro switch was on the wall to the left and behind me - and it worked fine pointing the remote towards the screen. You may not need to worry about it...

I don't think you need RF lights. I use some Lutrons ( can't remember which series) they have clear IR backs. I then have an IR long line to their backs and connect direct to the Harmony Extender. Plug it direct in to the extender and it works flawlessly. Or....... Just go with an RF solution. either way, the 1100 works like a charm for lighting control.

There are some screaming deals on the extender often at Amazon and other sites. You will need this.

I use the Lutron Maestro IR dimmer with the Harmony's RF extender - works just fine. The dimmer switch is about 15' or so behind the couch.

I'll eventually add a second dimmer to control the lights in the adjacent room. Luckily the two dimmer switches are next to each other, so the current RF extender should work just fine.

For most activities, the four left-side buttons are programmed to work the lights:

Full on
Dim +
Dim -
Preset

Perfect for our needs!

I am a little confused. The 1100 is sending ir signals only correct? I thought the rf extender is converting ir to rf, or am I mistaken? I thought it was similar to the bt adapter for the ps3.

If I use mastero switches for the ones on the other side of my basement, wouldnt my home theater and my basement lights all turn on and off at the same time? I want to keep those two separate, and I read all of the maestro ir switches are on the same frequency.

You are probably using the Lutron Spacer system. They can receive IR signals from within the box from an IR extender or a master switch with an IR receiver built in (which is still wired to the switch you want to control). As you said the back is transparent.


The 1100 will convert IR to RF as you suggest Remax for which ever device you tell it to, however it is doing so to communicate with the logitech RF extender. The extender will receive the RF signal and then convert it back to IR to either flood your equipment from the main unit or send the signal thru the assigned emitter port A,B,C,OR D.

The RF from the 1100 only works with the extender, it does not work with any RF switches out there. Only the 890 works with Z wave switches. The 1000 was also supposed to work with Z wave switches, but ended up not working resulting in a class action lawsuit. Logitech settled and gave 1000 owners who wanted z wave an 890.

To answer your question Remax, you either need line of site to the switches from the remote or from an extender. Since you want the switches to all do the same thing you can go with Maestro switches easily available at HD or Lowes.

You can add an RD extender to your system. You can find them on ebay for a good deal usually. Then assign port A for the first set of switches with a dual head emitter. You can do the same with port B and C for the other 3 switches or with just port B and get a tripple head emitter. You can extend the emitters with cat5 cable.

The other option is to get 2 rf extenders so you can position close enough to the switches, and not have to extend the emitters.

BTW the Maestro do have a preset switch, so you can have some customability besides on, off, raise and lower. You can have all the switches go to a preset of your choosing after you program each switch to its own preset.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info oman.

Instead of using the rf extender, could I run a cat5 cable from my hot link to the box across my basement if I use the switches with the clear back? That would be cheaper since I dont have to buy the rf extender. I should probably research the frequency between the two products so they dont interfere. I think the rf extender might allow me to customize it more though.

Ya, I forgot about the hot link pro you bought. Yes, that is one way to do it. Look into the spacer switches though, they are little pricier than the maestro's but they do a offer more versatility.

http://www.lutron.com/Products/Singl.../Overview.aspx

Below are the examples from the above discussion - the first one is the default Transport controls subscreen for "Watch Blu-ray" activity. You can see the four lighting control commands on the left side, which are consistent for all four subscreens:



^^ The "Record" button is active as I've programmed it to toggle the light for the Velodyne SMS-1 sub equalizer. Obviously the Oppo BDP cannot record...

The next pic is my Favorites subscreen under the same Activity, which I'll add the sub EQ volume up/down to the blank area in the middle (currently on page 2 of this subscreen):



^^ I just noticed my inconsistent labeling for the "Lights (full) on" buttons! Oops...

This next pic is the numeric keypad for watching HDTV:



...along with my default subscreen of "Favorites":



^^ You'll note that the lighting control under the Watch HDTV activity is now on the right side. I put the STB menu controls on the left sidebar, since that's what is used most under this Activity.

Mak99 -
thanks for the photos.

Oman321. you're good. They are the spacers and they are rock solid. Don't know much more than that but when I find something that works.... I go with it. I can recommend the spacers and don't have a clue how much more they cost than the Maestro stuff. My main switch powers 9 cans and cost somewhere around $90 on-line me thinks.

With the 1100, it is well worth considering lighting control.... I'm a fan!

Thanks Seattle,

It's nice to be able to put this otherwise useless knowledge to good use somewhere....

Is there a way to set up a "soft" button in a way that would allow a continuous press to send a continuous signal?
I have a light that has a dimmer function that requires a "hold" of the power on button... This doesn't seem to work with it being assigned to a soft button.

Have you tried learning that command from the original remote? I remember needing to do that with the 880 & maestro switch remote.

I had to make it learn the on/off code... bur had no luck with the dim command (prolonged hold of "on").

Good news PTAaron if you are using a Maestro,

I have 2 Maestro dimmers upstairs, and a grafik eye in the basement. The Maestro's respond to the GE's on and off commands. If you are using a maestro and wish to be have prolonged off which will start a timer, it did work with my 1100 soft buttons. The longer you hold off the longer the timer for the lights to shut. Each rising led on switch will indicate a delay of 10 seconds. The same worked with the on command. By pressing and hold the soft button, the on command was continuosly sent.

So if you do have the Maestro switches add the grafik eye device and edit as needed for you commands.

If you have a different switch, what type is it and what does the continuos on command do.

In any event a continuos hold and command being sent is possible as evident by my success.

Hi,

Anyone knows if the new Denon A100/4311 commands are online on the Logitech site? I haven't found anything.

Thks.

Hugo

Good news for when I re-install my maestro dimmers!

The lights I'm trying to get it to work for are some off brand battery powered LED lights that I got from Costco - trying to use them as "intermission" lights until I get the time and money to remove the large fluorescent tube lights an put in something better. Anyway - I can get on and off to work but the "hold it down" command seems not to function. I may try assigning it to a hard button just to test it out...

I have a question and hopefully this makes sense. How do I get back into an activity without turning off all of my equipment? For example I walk into my room and press play game. It turns on my projector, ps3, and receiver. If I hit the activity button again it brings me to my activities menu. How do I go back into the play game menu without turning everything off? When I click play game again it starts to send signals to all of my equipment. Will this turn all of them off?

Just pressing the activity button again should do it...no?

Not sure about the 1100, but on most harmonys you press the "Activities" button twice to return to the current activity without running the activity macro again.

EDIT: vancouver beat me to it.

As far as I know, you can also press again the same activity that you started earlier (eg. "Play game"). It won't power on the devices again, it knows they are already on.

Hi everyone! I just purchased and set up the 1100 today, love the remote so far, but have a few questions that I just cant seem to find anywhere?
1. Is there a brand and model ceiling fan that can be controlled with this remote?
2. Are there any certain brand light switches that work best with this remote?
3. If I purchase a remote control power outlet and plug my fireplace into the outlet can I controll the fireplace with the remote?
4. Is there any quick tips or pointers that you would recommend for new user with this remote?

Thanks for any help!

You can program just about anything that uses ir. If it's not in the system, you can use the remote from your device and use the learning feature on the 1100. I havent had to use that yet but im sure others will chime in.

Look in to x10 products. Do a web search I use x10 for my lamps They make wall switches and have modules that would turn your fireplace on and it all works with the 1100 remote

Do you know with these x10 light dimmer switches if I would need to buy the rf extender still or will I be able to control them with just my remote?

You need the ir543 by x10. It is a controller for lights put also will except the ir signal from the 1100 and send that signal to whatever module you have in place.

So if you place the ir543 in direct line of sight of the 1100 i think you do not need the extender. I happen to use the extender because I have it hidden away

When you installed your x10 light switches did you have to do anything with setting a house code as the installation instructions mention in order for it to work with the harmony remote?

Every module needs it's own house code. Otherwise the would all turn on and off at the same time