The Harmony 1100 Owner's Thread... - Page 62

I am using the preset for when I hit play - it kills the front 2 sets of cans and keeps the back set on at about 10-15%. I have the option then of turning that off fully if I want. Pause gets the 5 level bump up, and stop goes full bright - I still have to adjust the ramp up time on that so it doesn't get too bright too fast.


I like it so far... Honestly I haven't had a chance to really watch a full movie since I started messing with the switches and lighting - I've been in the middle of either installing new lights, installing new switches, rewiring the room, or painting the room for the last 3 weekends so I haven't had time to relax and enjoy it.

Well what do you know, the lights worked as they should for our movie tonight, then I hit the OFF bottom on the 1100, and all the components went off...but the lights didn't come on!!!

Man! What do I have to do!

I just checked my computer, and the settings are correct. Is there a delay or something I should set?

As a work around until you figure it out - you could try using oman's method to make the lights come on when you hit "stop" ...
I don't know what else to suggest

...or add the lights on command to the "power off" command of your AVR or BR player - so when the remote goes to shut down that device it also puts the lights on...

Of course you will have to get everything on rf first like you mentioned before...

I ordered my 1100 last weekend and it is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Can't wait to dig in and get it all setup. I am sure I will spend a lot of time in this thread learning from all of you who have gone before me.

This is another thing we can try, I had suggested this to someone else at some point but I thought you had it mostly worked out.

To have the lights to come on every time you hit power off lets try the following.

Add power commands to the switch instead of indicating that you leave the lights on all the time.

Go thru the wizard for the light device, and set the power on to be preset, set power off to be Lights ON or vice versa. Personally I would prefer full on entering activities and preset when leaving because of the bright lights at the end of a movie or tv watching hurts the eyes.

Assuming you have your lights on already you will likely be on your preset anyways, so likely no change in scene or it will go to a comfortable level. Then when you switch activities their should be no change from where you have the lights already, and when you hit the all off button you will raise the lights to on because that is the power command which is set.

Other than that it's making sure the lights on command took on the last activity you exited from.

Welcome to the club.

The above does not work my H1100:

NOTE: Only my Lutron Maestro IR dimmer is operated via RF; all other devices operate via IR.

• To test, I first updated the extender and remote as normal.
• Then, I went back and made a Channel button change for an Activity that does not include the Lutron device (Watch HDMI Laptop).
• I clicked the "Update remote" button and got to the "Connect the Wireless Extender..." screen.
• I then plugged in the H1100 remote (not the extender), but the screen never updated to give me the "Skip" option.

Kinda disappointed in this, as I was very happy to see this post. Has anyone been able to get the Skip button to appear when updating your remote?

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A bit off topic, but I recently bought the new TouchSquid remote (TSR) as an Early Adopter back in December, and have been pretty impressed with it so far. It has features that the H1100 does not (macros, user-customized buttons, more Activity icons such as Blu-ray, HD DVD, etc., ability to upload HEX codes...). The TSR does have a built-in IR sender, but does not do RF. Since it is an Android tablet you can connect to your network and use the Global Cache devices for IP/WiFi to IR control, etc. You can also download the TSR app to your own Andriod tablet from the Marketplace.

One thing I love about the TSR is the lighting-fast channel changing on a Motorola DCX3400 cable box. Where the H1100 (and H-One) seemed to send the signals a bit too slow no matter what the delay settings I had, the TSR is ridiculously fast. There seems to be no delay in sending the first digit, and the next digits are sent at 10 ms apart (user adjustable).

The only hardware features I miss from the H1100 are the hard buttons, but the TSR's 7" screen sure is nice and razor sharp. Below is a screenshot of my Watch TV activity from a few days ago, set to the Favorites screen. Activity buttons can be seen on the top row:



Favorite buttons (24 per screen, 3 or 4 total?, not just six per screen like the H1100/H-One) can be either a channel, webpage, or a custom button. If I press one of the webpage shortcuts on the bottom row, the webpage opens up in the window currently occupied by the Favorites buttons, while the Volume, Channel and Activity icons stay onscreen. Note the lower right button I programmed to be the Prev Ch button, where I selected both the image (ccw arrow) and button color. If the H1100 gave me this kind of customization, I would have 100% happy!

The TSR staff have been very quick to fix bugs and make improvements suggested by the EA's. They've even incorporated a few of my own suggestions. You can upload your own icons (channels, buttons, etc) if you like by just copying them into the tablet's TSR folder via USB. The TSR could give Harmony a real run for the money, if Harmony doesn't already have a similar device being worked on behind closed doors...

Bummer, i haven't tried it yet but had planned to later hopefully. I'll giveit it a shot but won't hold my breath.

TSR seems pretty nice. When the time comes to upgrade I certainly envision a network solution.

My almost year old 1100 had an untimely premature demise, (my fault) so I ran out to the the local store for a replacement, came home set it up and all is well again except... I cant get the back light setting to hold. I make the adjustment and press OK and all is fine until i put it in the charger. When removed from the charger for use, it resets the back light to about the 3/4 bright setting every time. Does not matter where you set it, full low, full bright or anywhere in between once its placed on the charger it resets to about 3/4. I never had this problem with my original 1100. Tried updating firmware/software and also a reboot by removing battery, no help. Any others experience this? Am I alone?

Aaron -- have you had any issues with your splitter? Does it work flawlessly?

I want to try mine again, but want to make sure I have the right equipment.
I am thinking the reason my splitter didn't work was because I got the stereo 3.5m splitter...and you got the mono splitter.

I also want to connect my AVR the way you did...but again, want to make sure I get the correct cables, etc...

I've heard of folks having this issue before. Nothing short of a swap for a different one will be able to resolve this, that I know of.

Mono splitter worked great - I've been out of town a bit so I haven't played with it a whole lot beyond the first day. It worked perfectly at that time though.

Mono cable to the AVR works perfectly - that actually came with the HK IR extender I got a few years ago.

^^
Okay...would you mind listing in order how you have yours hooked up?
Is the mono splitter plugged DIRECTLY into the extender? Is there enough room to do that, etc...
Then where is the 3.5m to 2.5m adapter, etc...

Thanks!

I have this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60 plugged into the RF extender - there is plenty of room for that style, the other style probably wouldn't have enough clearance. One leg has the IR emitter attached to my BR player plugged into it, the other leg has a long headphone extension cable plugged into it -> then the 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter -> then the mini IR blaster.

EDIT: The headphone cable is stereo... but since it is getting a mono signal from the splitter and going back to the 3.5mm stereo to 2.5mm mono adapter it seems to work just fine.

EDIT 2: I have my cable box hooked up to A; BR player/lights hooked up to B; TV hooked up to C; and AVR hooked up to D. I have them devices set so they only send their signals to those emitters - the AppleTV2, PS3, and X10 stuff are controlled by the emitter on the RF extender.

Thanks. I suspected that but thought i'd ask first. Looks like I make a run to the store this weekend.

Just in case anyone wants to see the macro workaround in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSOTtH7xy90

I ended up programming "enter and dim" to the "slow" button for starting movies... Works nicely.

Nice PT...I re-did my entire wiring today so that I could do the macros...works nicely so far.

Do you know if there is a way to make the lights dim slower?
Yours seem to dim slower than mine.

You can program the "on" and "off" times using the advanced settings on the switches.

A few pages back there is a link to the guide for the advanced settings - I have mine set to take 10 seconds to fully turn off, and you can go as long as 15 seconds if I remember right.

You can also set what level they turn on at - BUT I discovered that it doesn't work when turning on by the remote, only when hitting the button in the wall. That stinks.

I setup a Harmony 1100 for my parents a little over a year ago. It's setup with the RF extender, and was working flawlessly until they switched from Time Warner to DirecTV. I believe the model of their receiver is a HR-24 or HR-25.

When navigating up and down in the DirecTV menu or guide with the directional pad, it consistently jumps 2 positions, instead of one, which is extremely frustrating when your trying to select a show to watch.

I've tried learning the command from the DirecTV remote, as well as a few other options, and it's still doing it. Any ideas as how to fix this?

I looked up online and found the advanced settings for the Maestro, but it said that they do not work with the wireless switches, so I didn't even try. I'll look through this thread and see if I can find the link you are talking about.

I saw that too - but the manual that came with the switch had a link.

Sorry for the off topic - but this might help:

Pull out the little tab a the bottom of the switch, push and hold the switch, push the tab back in and hold until the LEDs start blinking.
Use the "bright/dim" buttons to pick an LED - bottom one is to set the on level, 2nd one is to set the on fade time, 3rd is for off fade time.
Use the main button to choose which one to set - set the option with the dim/bright button - then hit the button to select.

Go to that device in the software and select troubleshoot or more options. One of the options should be that my device responds too much or not enough. Change the number accordingly (down i believe in your case) and update.

Good luck.

Nice job on the video PT.

Thanks

I was going to demo the pause/lights go up too - but I forgot. LOL!

I changed the number multiple times in prior troubleshooting with unsuccessful results. The up and down buttons are the only buttons we have any problems with, all other commands are working fine.

Could this possibly be an issue with the IR blasters from the RF extender?

Is the signal being sent out of more than one emitter?

I'm having problems customizing my buttons. When I go into the custom buttons, I can only do the favorites (star) or hard buttons. I can't access the other parts of the screen. Can anyone help me on this issue? My apologies if this question has been asked before. I have version 7.7.0 by the way.

EDIT: I figured it out. Love this remote!!!

I don't have the emitters assigned to specific devices in the Harmony software, if I recall correctly. Could this possibly be the issue? Ill try assigning them to their own ports and see if it works.

The way their setup is has the DirecTV box on its own shelf above the Yamaha receiver. The DirecTV box has the emitter attached directly over the IR receiver with the Logitech supplied black covers. The Yamaha receiver has the emitter attached to the right of the IR receiver. Don't know if that helps or makes a difference.

I would think there is a possibility of getting double signals bounced around.
I have all of mine assigned to specific emitters just for that reason.