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"OFFICIAL" Pioneer MCACC thread - Page 144

post #4291 of 5313
Just want to Mention that the output at 8 ohms between class d and the regular amps have way different thd numbers. Not sure how that plays into effect but the power is cleaner.

Next is the 1222 is advertised as ONLY having 600 ways of total output power. So pushing 7 channels that will net you just above 80 watts per channel. Regular a/b amps lose more with each channel added.
post #4292 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

As I pointed out, it would take twice as much power to achieve a 3dB increase in maximum SPL, which is not much louder. This is not twice as much power, or even half again as much power. If you are having insufficient-power issues, this alone will not solve them, although the ability to use external amplification with it is a step down the road to a solution.

As I also pointed out, its additional features alone may well be a good reason for an upgrade. And you've clearly managed the financial part of it so that, for $250 out-of-pocket, I'd definitely say you've done well. I just wanted to make sure you weren't expecting too much from the amplifier section.

I'm sure you'll enjoy the 1222.

Well you're talking about volume what about sound quality?

When i changed from my onkyo 705 to a SC37 i noticed an improvement in SQ. And i have a little bit more headroom. No, of course this improvement is not massively night and day, but it is noticeable and something you can appreciate. Since i love doing comparisons i hooked back up my 705 a few weeks ago just to what it would sound like. And i immediately noticed the change from what i've gotten use to with the pioneer.

The AB amps are definitely much more warmer than classD. The sense of grip on the speakers was lost as was the speed and little detail. Turning up the volume was another difference i noticed. At my usual listening level it just didn't seem to have that dynamic punch the pioneer has. And it wasn't as clean sounding.

These are just my observations and opinion.
post #4293 of 5313
In case anyone is interested: Pioneer Elite SC-75/77/79 Anticipation Thread
post #4294 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post


Well you're talking about volume what about sound quality?

When i changed from my onkyo 705 to a SC37 i noticed an improvement in SQ. And i have a little bit more headroom. No, of course this improvement is not massively night and day, but it is noticeable and something you can appreciate. Since i love doing comparisons i hooked back up my 705 a few weeks ago just to what it would sound like. And i immediately noticed the change from what i've gotten use to with the pioneer.

The AB amps are definitely much more warmer than classD. The sense of grip on the speakers was lost as was the speed and little detail. Turning up the volume was another difference i noticed. At my usual listening level it just didn't seem to have that dynamic punch the pioneer has. And it wasn't as clean sounding.

These are just my observations and opinion.

I think it would be a mistake to let another amplifier sound-quality debate break out here in the MCACC thread.
post #4295 of 5313
Just pointing something out. This isn't politics. But whatever.
post #4296 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by svadas View Post

Is there anyway to redo the sub level calibration without doing the entire calibration process? I'd like to fine tune it to zero, but seems to be a long process if I have to keep redoing the entire setup.

read the manual for choosing Manual MCACC in the menu, and if you mean channel level to the sub, you can go to channel levels, then adjust the sub's output manually.

if you mean something else, like distance or changing the sub's location, then you'll have to re-run Auto MCACC.
post #4297 of 5313
Remember the sub distance may not be technically accurate. My sub distance is 31 ft. which is no where near the real distance. MCACC may do this to align the sub with the rest of the speakers.
post #4298 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post

Remember the sub distance may not be technically accurate. My sub distance is 31 ft. which is no where near the real distance. MCACC may do this to align the sub with the rest of the speakers.

agreed. acoustic distance not physical distance. so adjusting sub distance to match a tape measure is actually the wrong thing to do. the acoustic distance takes into account signal delay through the processors & reflected bass waves off walls, corners, ceiling.

thanks for that reminder & tip smile.gif
post #4299 of 5313
Just got a new 5.1 speaker for my VSX 520 when I tried to do MCACC again it keeps give me noisy, retry error.

I have no problem doing it with my old home theatre 5.1 speaker and hardly any noise in the room. I have also tried reset the receiver to factory default but didn't help.

Any idea why?
post #4300 of 5313
Hey guys I noticed that hansel and gretel's sound was horrid on blueray, I have my ch set to 1 on my receiver? I'm running 7.1 should I leave it ther?
post #4301 of 5313
What does ch 1 mean?
post #4302 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

I think it would be a mistake to let another amplifier sound-quality debate break out here in the MCACC thread.

RD,

How much and how fast can you get to my house, to setup tweak my new sc-1222-K and the rest of my equipment? I'm in central Jersey and am having a helluva time
getting it right. Comparing the sound to my old Yamaha 5.1, playing standard music, is abysmal.I also just got a brand new Rythmik LV12r sub, which pounds out the bass on my old AVR.
post #4303 of 5313
Using Gamelover's notes/settings, where would be the best place to put the MCACC mic to do the calibration? I really don't have a primary listening position. Should I place the mic (on a tripod) in the center of the room, in front of the table? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. TYIA.

post #4304 of 5313
So, it appears my kids somehow lost my calibration MIC. Therefore, I need a new one. I could either buy another Pioneer calibration mic from their online store approximately $50 bucks shipped. Or should I buy a different calibration MIC such as miniDSP for $100 bucks?
post #4305 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

So, it appears my kids somehow lost my calibration MIC. Therefore, I need a new one. I could either buy another Pioneer calibration mic from their online store approximately $50 bucks shipped. Or should I buy a different calibration MIC such as miniDSP for $100 bucks?

You need the correct Pioneer mic. MCACC takes the frequency response and directivity pattern of that specific mic into account when processing its input. (IOW, it doesn't matter if it's a crappy mic, as long as MCACC knows in what precise ways it's crappy.)

You can get a Pioneer CD-MC20 calibratiob mic (if that's the correct one for your AVR) from Amazon for $21.
post #4306 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAW View Post

Using Gamelover's notes/settings, where would be the best place to put the MCACC mic to do the calibration? I really don't have a primary listening position. Should I place the mic (on a tripod) in the center of the room, in front of the table? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

You can do a 3-point ("multi-point") calibration with Advanced MCACC. It's in the manual.
post #4307 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

You can do a 3-point ("multi-point") calibration with Advanced MCACC. It's in the manual.

Is that's what's recommended when there isn't a primary listening point?

It's been far too long since I originally did this.
post #4308 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAW View Post

Is that's what's recommended when there isn't a primary listening point?

It's a place to start. In difficult rooms, sometimes moving your head six inches can have a profound effect. In other rooms the differences are much more subtle. You'll just have to listen and find out. It's useful to know what problems you're trying to fix, if any.

Are those surround speakers really in front of the sofa like that?
post #4309 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

It's a place to start. In difficult rooms, sometimes moving your head six inches can have a profound effect. In other rooms the differences are much more subtle. You'll just have to listen and find out. It's useful to know what problems you're trying to fix, if any.

I just recently moved the whole set up counter clock wise from the wall where the chair is, to the wall in the photo. The wall behind the couch/sofa is a half wall that opens "up" (sunken family room) to the kitchen, which over looks the family room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Are those surround speakers really in front of the sofa like that?

Yeah, but those will be getting moved back to the sofa/couch wall when I get longer wires. rolleyes.gif

I'll try that three/mulit-point calibration tonight. Thanks.
post #4310 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

You need the correct Pioneer mic. MCACC takes the frequency response and directivity pattern of that specific mic into account when processing its input. (IOW, it doesn't matter if it's a crappy mic, as long as MCACC knows in what precise ways it's crappy.)

You can get a Pioneer CD-MC20 calibratiob mic (if that's the correct one for your AVR) from Amazon for $21.

I sent and email to Pioneer and the part # for the mic is APM7010. The price for the mic is $27.50, but after shipping, taxes and "handling fee" it comes to $43.96. WOW!
Edited by GusGus748s - 7/29/13 at 9:36am
post #4311 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

I sent and email to Pioneer and the part # for the mic is APM7010. The price for the mic is $27.50, but after shipping, taxes and "handling fee" it comes to $43.96. WOW!

Nasty. A little quick Googling doesn't turn up significantly more attractive alternatives for that particular mic, either. I suppose you could sell one of those kids. biggrin.gif
post #4312 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Nasty. A little quick Googling doesn't turn up significantly more attractive alternatives for that particular mic, either. I suppose you could sell one of those kids. biggrin.gif

With my luck they would be returned...I guess a NO RETURN policy should be applied. I found 4 mics on ebay that look the same as the one missing for my SC-1522-K. However, none of them have a part #. I've email all 4 sellers and hopefully one of them will have a part # that matches.
post #4313 of 5313
@CRAW: If there is a wall behind the sofa you would get better sound moving the sofa forward and away from the wall a couple of feet, and/or treating the wall to reduce the reflections from it. Maybe move the table in front of the chairs? Looks like a tight layout...
post #4314 of 5313
Hey guys,

I was just wondering if anyone here is using the x-curve feature? If so, what benefit has it had to your sound? From my understanding, the x-curve just reduces the treble for applications in large rooms. I have a 4400 cubic foot room, and I just turned on the x-curve for my b & w m-1 speakers. It seems to have reduced some of the harshness on very high treble scenes. So, does turning this on reduce some of the strain put on the speaker? Perhaps the equivalent of setting a crossover on the lower frequencies. Am I understanding this right?
post #4315 of 5313
Update: found a mic on eBay brand new for $28 bucks.
post #4316 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

@CRAW: If there is a wall behind the sofa you would get better sound moving the sofa forward and away from the wall a couple of feet, and/or treating the wall to reduce the reflections from it. Maybe move the table in front of the chairs? Looks like a tight layout...

Thanks, but it's a half-wall - like it goes up to the back of the couch, and then is open to the kitchen w/ a banister. I like this lay out a lot over how the room used to be. Now, I need a bigger TV since the sofa/couch is so far away. smile.gif

I did some calibrations last night (over and over again), and I can't for the life of me figure out this "3-point ("multi-point") calibration." Can anyone offer any simple instructions for me? Or maybe they are in this thread somewhere? IDK - looking for help, guys. TYIA.
post #4317 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmanyon View Post

Hey guys,

I was just wondering if anyone here is using the x-curve feature? If so, what benefit has it had to your sound? From my understanding, the x-curve just reduces the treble for applications in large rooms. I have a 4400 cubic foot room, and I just turned on the x-curve for my b & w m-1 speakers. It seems to have reduced some of the harshness on very high treble scenes. So, does turning this on reduce some of the strain put on the speaker? Perhaps the equivalent of setting a crossover on the lower frequencies. Am I understanding this right?


Any insight on the x-curve would be much appreciated!
post #4318 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmanyon View Post

Hey guys,

I was just wondering if anyone here is using the x-curve feature? If so, what benefit has it had to your sound? From my understanding, the x-curve just reduces the treble for applications in large rooms. I have a 4400 cubic foot room, and I just turned on the x-curve for my b & w m-1 speakers. It seems to have reduced some of the harshness on very high treble scenes. So, does turning this on reduce some of the strain put on the speaker? Perhaps the equivalent of setting a crossover on the lower frequencies. Am I understanding this right?

Most soundtracks mixed for cinema sound too bright when played back in large rooms. The X-Curve setting acts as a kind of re-equalization for home theater listening, and restores proper tonal balance of movie soundtracks.
Since the principal is the same, X-Curve isn’t applied when you’re using any of the Home THX, Pure direct or Optimum surround modes.

I'm pleased with the results from using it. To me it sounds more natural, less sharp or bright.
post #4319 of 5313
Quote:
Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post

Most soundtracks mixed for cinema sound too bright when played back in large rooms. The X-Curve setting acts as a kind of re-equalization for home theater listening, and restores proper tonal balance of movie soundtracks.
Since the principal is the same, X-Curve isn’t applied when you’re using any of the Home THX, Pure direct or Optimum surround modes.

I'm pleased with the results from using it. To me it sounds more natural, less sharp or bright.

You can set it at different levels. Right now I have mine at -0,5db/oct. What did you set yours to? Also, do you notice less of a strain on the speakers with this activated or are my ears playing tricks on me?
post #4320 of 5313
That -.05 db setting you are using is att. The frequencies between 2k-20k hz by .05db. The adjustment choices are between 0-3 in .5 increments.

If you set your receiver to one of the thx modes that will give you an idea of how it is intended to be heard.

Then, if you use a mode that does not apply the x-curve you'll have an idea what it should sound like and can then choose between .5-3 db.
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