AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Maelstrom sealed help having odd issues....
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Maelstrom sealed help having odd issues....

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I recieved my Maelstrom a few weeks agoand threw it into a sealed 7.2 cubic feet box. I'm using a Behrinnger 2500 and was going to run the 2500 bridged mono into the sealed. The Maelstrom I recieved I think is 4 ohm single voice coil.

When I turn on the amp the clip light for channel one is stuck on red. I pulled out my multimeter to see how many ohms and it was showing 10ohms?

For people who have had this clipping issue when bridging what button allignment on back did you end up with. I have 6 and 7 on and the rest off.

Thanks.
post #2 of 17
when measuring the resistance with the multimeter, did you have the sub still connected to the amp?
post #3 of 17
Have you tried another amp?
Have you done the fan mod to the 2500?
With the speaker disconnected, the amp will turn on without the light?
Made sure the wires are not shorted anywhere?
post #4 of 17
It seems the EP2500's are problematic, as I have read about this problem a number of times....


Is the amp brand new...? I got 2 of these amps, one arrived with the same issue, It worked for a little while, but then went bad. They replaced it without question, though shipping was on me...
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderMoser View Post

when measuring the resistance with the multimeter, did you have the sub still connected to the amp?

yes
post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by digital desire View Post

Have you tried another amp?
Have you done the fan mod to the 2500?
With the speaker disconnected, the amp will turn on without the light?
Made sure the wires are not shorted anywhere?

I did try my carvin and it worked however with a bad ground loop.

I did do the fan mod

Did't try that

I'll check it
post #7 of 17
The fan mod nearly killed mine. I returned it to stock, and all is well.
I too, thought I had the same problems, and when I pulled the amp after running, and took it apart, the heat sink was WAY to hot to touch..
Return to stock and see if it helps.
The red clip light lights up for thermal problems also.
post #8 of 17
I don't think I have ever heard of the fan mod causing this issue, nice to know. I checked the back of my EP and it sounds like you have the dips set correctly.
post #9 of 17
some ep2500 dip switches were labeled wrong
so do a google search a make sure they are correct...
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by digital desire View Post

The fan mod nearly killed mine. I returned it to stock, and all is well.
I too, thought I had the same problems, and when I pulled the amp after running, and took it apart, the heat sink was WAY to hot to touch..
Return to stock and see if it helps.
The red clip light lights up for thermal problems also.

Make sure that the fan is blowing from back to front like the stock one was. The problem you describe would be caused by changing the direction of airflow.

I've done the fan mod to mine and the top is cool to the touch even after running for several hours.
post #11 of 17
Initially, I did have the fan reversed. Putting it the right way solved about 90% of the time. I still had heat issues. the suggested fan for the mod moves less than 1/2 of the mass of cooling air. IIRC, the stock one drew.25 amps, and the suggested replacement was .009. That current draw is more or less a direct relationship to mass flow.
I am running mine bridged into a 4 ohm load also, and it may at times be a bit less than that. DC IIRC was 3.1 ohm. So when I have it turned up, it was working. Once I put the fan in the right way, I beat on it like a rented mule, (to the point it deformed the driver ) and no more problems. Cost me $40 in cable to move it into another room though.
post #12 of 17
My red clip lights stayed on at initial power up until i turned up the volume enough to get them to recognize a signal. All four of mine behaved in this way.

Todd
post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
I think the fan is blowing out the back. I will try changing it. Oddly enough when I switch 8 to on (which is actually turning the high passes off) it will work in bridged mode.
post #14 of 17
If I had the ability to bet money on it, I would.

Like I said, that took care of 90% of the problem right there. Somewhere is a web page that suggests to reverse it. That should be changed.

I still think the original fan is the one to be there.
post #15 of 17
I finally got my sealed Mal-X up and running last night and I had a similiar problem. The red clip light is on until you are fed a signal and boosting up the gain will not make this disappear. It of course helps to raise the incoming signal so you can actually get some output from the sub, but at least for me it never made my light go away.

I have a LMC-1 running to the EP2500 and then I'm using it bridged to the sub. Thanks to NeoDan I finally figured out what my problem was. Try these dip switch settings:
L
L
R
L
L
R
R
R
L
L

Since you are are obviously sending your sub lower frequencies you need to turn the filters to off. Switches 3 & 8 are there to prevent lower frequencies from reaching your equipment so when you are only sending these lower frequencies the EP2500 will choose to not recognize them. Therefore it thinks there is no incoming signal, thus the light stays on.

Good Luck,
Nate
post #16 of 17
Also, make sure they get switched over firmly. They are not the most, eh, well NASA would not use those switches on a space shot.
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
thanks guys!! Up and running.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Maelstrom sealed help having odd issues....