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Design help !

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Im going crazy trying to figure out how to maximize my room space in all ways (screen size, seating etc.) of course all the while on a minimum budget.

I have ran into quite the snag, below is a sketch up drawing of the room and the ..... doorway (queue evil scary music)...... in a load bearing walll !!!

I fear moving the door opening over will: blow the budget and be outside my handyman-ness

So Im looking for tips on room design, I know some may say the room is too small to do what I want, but I have to atleast try.

Im looking for 2.35:1 screen, AT to better use space, seating for atleast 6, due to size I was looking real movie rockers.

Thats about it. Please tell me there is a design that fits the room for all these things. Maybe something simple that I missed ?

Thanks !!

 

theater bar.zip 30.1083984375k . file
post #2 of 19
Can you save that as a jpg file?
post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 
Sorry about the file type, here are a few jpg shots of the issue.

As for the real room, Im almost ready to put up drywall. Im stuck at electrical / wire running as Im not sure the final layout of the room. So placing outlets and such is crawling along. Of course if the doorway does need to move that will have to happen before drywall as well.

The finished room dimensions are 10.5 feet by 12.5 feet, to get the door centered it needs to be moved over about 10 inches.

All walls are cinderblock, I have used extruded foam insulation and 1x3s to act as studs for the drywall.
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post #4 of 19
We ran into the same problem moving a door opening on a load supporting wall with a 7'6" ceiling height and a side obstruction. We found a piece of 3/8 U channel angle iron that wrapped perfectly around the main support beam at the top of the door opening. Then braced it in with 2x4s on either side. It worked and passed inspection. We used firring strips along the top plate to even things out for the drywallers and used construction adhesive for the top door moulding.

Like I said, it passed inspection and with the firring strips you would never know what or how we solved this problem.

Mike

OOPS! I missed the cinder block wall! My bad. But, same deal, been there done that! It is not that hard to do what you want to do. But, do you have a picture, a real picture (photo) of the opening you want to move from the floor to the ceiling. And the ceiling height we are working with. If it is what I think, it is not that big a job. And with all of the concrete/block guys out of work, you should be able to find someone easily that knows what they are doing if you don't want to mess with it. I had similar work done, and it ran me around $300 in and out, took him a couple of hours tops.
post #5 of 19
Two rows of seats, albeit rockers in 10 or 12 feet plus an AT screen - are you planning inwalls?

How big a screen are you planning? Have you run a few models through the throw calculators at projector central.com? Just an FYI with limited throw you might get a bigger screen with a 16:9 screen unless you use a horizontal expansion anamorphic lens.
post #6 of 19
Continuing on regarding the door opening...

You can cut the wall and fill in the void with wood. I believe code here in Michigan is that it has to be treated lumber to match the thickness of the wall, ie, a 6 inch wall use 4x6's. Going by memory we put a header in at the top and went 10 or 12 on center with the treated studs that were doubled up. It worked and passed inspection.

Been awhile, trying to remember what we did.

Hope this helps.

Mike
post #7 of 19
I really think you need to bite the bullet and do what it takes to move that door. Anything else will be a compromise.

You can get a feel for the dimensions of "real" theater rockers at seatsandchairs.com

Last thought, with so many people and a projector in a relatively small space, HVAC should be at the top of your pre-planning list. It is going to get hot!!.
post #8 of 19
Also, why not enter on a side of the room, and have an aisle on one side? Then you you aren't giving up the best seat in the house to the aisle.
post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Two rows of seats, albeit rockers in 10 or 12 feet plus an AT screen - are you planning inwalls?

How big a screen are you planning? Have you run a few models through the throw calculators at projector central.com? Just an FYI with limited throw you might get a bigger screen with a 16:9 screen unless you use a horizontal expansion anamorphic lens.

Want a good laugh ? Remember this is on a budget sooo.....

Im not exactly doing inwalls, more so going to put my speakers on wall. I am planning on using the SeymourAV screen material, and his new "XD" material is supposed to allow for closer seating distances before the fabric texture is seen. From what I have read I can get away with keeping my speakers 2 inches back from the AT material.

Heres the laugh part: Im planning on 9inches of space between the rear wall and the false screen wall, and below the screen widening that to 18 inches in order to have a small equipment rack, and my 16inch wide sub, sit on the floor.

What speaker fits that 7inch space ? why a Bic Acoustech ht-85 center channel, with the horn tweeter rotated 90 degrees. 3 identical ht-85s across the front. I like the sound of klipsch so this is a cheap similar sounding thinner alternative.


As far a screen size I already have my projector so running it through the calculator gives me a 90 inch wide 16:9 screen, (50 inch high) and with a HE anamorphic lens I get 120inch wide. Im tired of black bars so I really want to go CIH.
post #10 of 19
IMHO I wouldn't waste an inch of throw distance and avoid an AT screen for this space. You can do that at your next place.
post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I really think you need to bite the bullet and do what it takes to move that door. Anything else will be a compromise.

You can get a feel for the dimensions of "real" theater rockers at seatsandchairs.com

Last thought, with so many people and a projector in a relatively small space, HVAC should be at the top of your pre-planning list. It is going to get hot!!.

My home is older, built in late 1960s, and the heat is baseboard hot water. So there are no ducts in the house, and no AC. Also retrofitting AC means ducts would need to be added all over and thats a major costly project.

The answer that the previous owner used was what I like to call 6 zone cooling ..... window or in wall AC units throughout the house.

In the theater, there are 2 windows not shown on my drawings (they will be covered over with fabric panels (oc703 sheets with black fabric). 1 of the windows has a 6000 btu unit mounted in it. I hope that does a good job, last summer while using it as a temp setup (the old bedsheet screen, and crappy couch deal) the room stayed nice and cool with that on.

The room also has a exhaust fan like you would find in a bathroom, it vents to the outside and is flush mounted in the ceiling. This is a quiet alternative to running the AC to remove heat in the room for non-summer months of the year.

I hope that setup can keep the temperature reasonable all months of the year.
post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by gonthorn View Post

Heres the laugh part: Im planning on 9inches of space between the rear wall and the false screen wall, and below the screen widening that to 18 inches in order to have a small equipment rack, and my 16inch wide sub, sit on the floor.

I am planning a small space also, and have alternated between either doing a shadowbox screenwall or low profile speakers like the kind you would see by a plasma behind the screen. I have AT screen material from the original SMX group buy (similar to Seymour). I recently realized that throw could be a bigger issue than hoped. I might consider going AT and putting treatments behind the screen, or do a solid screen.

Here is good example of a shadowbox screenwall from a forum member, FYI:




More here:
http://mysite.verizon.net/res8ycu4/id4.html
post #13 of 19
On HVAC. You are a candidate for a Mr Slim (Mitsubishi) mini split AC, You only need to run electrical and connecting pipes between the inside and outside units. No ducts, and reasonably silent in the theater.
post #14 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

On HVAC. You are a candidate for a Mr Slim (Mitsubishi) mini split AC, You only need to run electrical and connecting pipes between the inside and outside units. No ducts, and reasonably silent in the theater.

Always the best alternative to avoid ductwork this unit is very popular in the older victorian homes where its impossible to run duct...Great unit.
post #15 of 19
From britinNoVA thread another design where the screen hugs the wall and the speakers are hidden.

post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 
With a shadow box layout, since I would have the room, should I put the center channel above or below the screen ?

I still like the idea of 3 identical speakers across the front, but the exta foot or so of throw distance is tempting.
post #17 of 19
I hear you. I have the same mental debate. Most folks say above or below doesn't matter much - whichever is easier to implement, and aim the speakers at the ear level. Which row is being optimized front or back. I recall Larry had two center channels, on high one low - there were technical issues associated with that, so I'd drop him a note if you were inclined to go down that path.
post #18 of 19
Put it were you can see it in every seating location. If you can see it, you can hear it without obstruction.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
After thinking over the whole AT screen or not issue, I took some more measurements, or lets say I put more thought into the measurements I already had.

What I found was based on the riser height calculator (figuring on Theater Rocker seats using measurements from seatsandchairs) if my screen is not at least 36 inchs off the ground, with my short distance between rows, my riser shoots up to be 16 inches. That 16 inches with a finished ceiling height of only 92 inches, leaves 76 inches when standing on the riser. Now I am 6'2 and that seems a little close, not something I want to put up with.

So I feel my riser cant be higher than 12 inches. Where is this going ? It means that my screen needs to be 36 inches off the ground. (based off of screen height, that does put viewers eyes between 1/6 to 1/3 of the way up depending on row, which should be comfortable)

So when I add it all up: 92 inch - 8 inch soffit above the screen to install lighting, - 36 inch off the ground, = 48 inches

48 inches does not include screen borders. if you figure at 3 inch frame around the outside then its even less, but I can shorten the soffit or lower the screen to say 34 inches.

Point being, my screen height cannot go more than 48 inches, so at my PJs max throw, it can do more than that, so in fact I CAN spare 9 or 10 inches behind the screen for slim speakers and still have the max screen size.

I think a 48inch screen height is respectable, in such a small room it should look quite large. Am I right ? thats 98inch diagonal, for 16:9 and 123 diagonal for 2.35:1 if I use a HE anamorphic lens.

Enough rambling I doubt anyone cares to make sense of what I just said, I barely can myself hah.
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