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Got a CRT projector. Now for the screen  

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Well, I got a nice basic Sony KP-7220, circa 1980's. GREAT picture, but I need to build a screen for this pj.

Okay, my projector has an output between 300 and 400 lumens (Got the specs from Curt Palme) so I believe I'll need a high gain screen.
My question is--

What is the VERY BEST of the DIY screens to build?

The drywall screen? The Parkland Plastics Screen? Which one?!!?!?!?

I'm tryin' to get the best out of it I can..

post #2 of 10
Its best to use the search feature and read old posts firsts, and only ask more focussed questions which you havn't seen answered, rather than sitting back and expecting everyone to do your work for you.

This topic has been well covered a zillion posts.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

Can you suggest some threads for me?
post #4 of 10
Press search and type "DIY". If you want the best, build a TORUS screen.
post #5 of 10
I had a similar projector when I was starting out, and ended up with a Dalite Hipower screen (floor mount only). It was the only one that would give enough gain. Homemade screens just aren't bright enough. Also max size is probabaly 60x80 (100" diagonal 4:3 format). This will give you just enough lumens to get by. Cost is around $300 or less. I think AVS carries them, also cousinsvideo.com. If you must do a ceiling mount, then look for a Draper M2500 which is a little more expensive but has similar gain characteristics to the HiPower, but is reflective--light reflects on an equal angle (the HiPower is retroreflective--light reflects back to source). If you go homemade, then I wouldn't try for anything bigger than a 6 foot diagonal as you will overdrive the projector.

As a quick fix, get the biggest and whitest window shade you can find from Home Depot, or similar, and try this.

post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
I'm going to go ahead and do a floor standing PJ and only around a 70 inch screen instead of a 100 inch as I want to get the best possible quality and anyway, 100 inches is a bit big for me..

I'll go ahead and check out the Torus screen.

post #7 of 10

Making a Torus, typically requires some kind of stretch screen material from an existing screen or painted cloth (sealed). Frankly this adventure works more for the bigger projectors. A simple HIPower screen will do the trick nicely, and you will never see the difference for the small screen you are going for--plus the cost will be more.

That being said--if you really are in it for the adventure of doing it, then by all means do it--heck getting there is half the fun.

post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
What do you think would yield better results with my 300-400 lumen projector?:

The Parkland Plastics Screen or the
Drywall screen painted with Ultra-White paint???

Also, I probably wont need the very best.. I'm planning on fixing up the projector I have now, selling it, and buying a newer one from Curt Palme.
So, when you think mine, think Kloss Novabeam but a little bit better (Mine is from around 1983-86)

post #9 of 10
I would try plain drywall--first seal it with latex primer. Then try an ultra white satin or eggshell. This should give you some gain. If it hot spots, then try just plain flat paint. This is the cheapest and best way to get familiar with your projector I think...

post #10 of 10
Nathan I have some experience with the 722 after having one for awhile. Max Screen size with this is 72 inches (recommended by Sony) It will do 100 but loses alot of brightness. The 10 series was designed to go 100 inches.

My screen was a parkland with a 60 inch diagonal which worked out great. The screen was white and unfinished, I did paint it a very light gray once as an experiment and didnt really notice a difference. I bought the plastic for 9.95 at either Home Depot or Lowes and it was labled as white tileboard. The frame was made out of 2x3's and was hung on the basement wall. No hotspots or any other problems and it only required an occasional wipe down. Use liquid nails to attach the board to the frame.

My new screen is 100 inch and drywall. I primered the sheetrock with 4 coats of Kilz and wetsanded it several times. Two coats of Behr Ultra white applied with a quality roller finished it out. The finish is as smooth as glass. The trick is to paint the screen while it is flat so the paint levels and dont be afraid to go a bit heavy on the coats. This takes longer because the coats dry slowly but the paint levels out without orange peel. I honestly believe it doesnt give anything up to the cheaper screens and doesnt have the wrinkle problems I hear about occasionally. Not bad for an investment of a couple hours and less than 60 bucks. I'm using a Sony 1251 and Dwin LD-2.

Best of luck...I hope to have my theater finished by the beginning of March

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