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BIC America F12 sub anyone ? - Page 88

post #2611 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sound Master BIC View Post

"Late to the party?"
"Misinformed?" There are so many studies debunking the global warming myth, try reading! There is far too much money for governments to make for it to be in the mainstream media but it's real. Remember where you heard it first.
My furnas, central air, fridge, dishwasher, washer-dryer, TV..., are all of the highest energy star rating available, they run and consume all the time. If that makes me not one of the "smart" persons here, then I'm OK with that. My subwoofer runs maybe 8 hours a week, maybe. The consumption charge from that is so minute it likely wouldn't be any more than $0.25 on my bill.
You want to spend hours of time and energy trying to figure out how to have your sub turned OFF when not in use, or spend who knows how much on a special power bar which would likely take years to recoup the cost of in energy savings, so who's the smart one?
Watched the Avengers last week, finally another 7.1 movie. Lots of real good low end stuff to shake the house, all encompassing sound with amazing FX, worth another watch or two!
The smart one is the one who only listens until he has something useful to add to the discussion. I know this discussion doesnt really belong here and I am not a tree hugger but I understand where he is coming from. If you are trying to show how intelligent you are then try something besides being rude.
post #2612 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sound Master BIC View Post

"Late to the party?"
"Misinformed?" There are so many studies debunking the global warming myth, try reading!

Those studies come from the same type of people advocating $1000 speaker cables and $1000 DACs. LOL
post #2613 of 2834
Have been experimenting with placement of the F12 the last few days. Noticed that it gets a little boomy when played loud and the back os about 8" from the wall in a corner location. When moved closer to the wall it sounds much tighter.

Anyone else experience this?
post #2614 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark4242 View Post

Have been experimenting with placement of the F12 the last few days. Noticed that it gets a little boomy when played loud and the back os about 8" from the wall in a corner location. When moved closer to the wall it sounds much tighter.

Anyone else experience this?

Placement of a sub makes a big difference, as does the size and shape of your room. An article like this might help http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/speaker-setup-guidelines/subwoofer-placement-guidelines
post #2615 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark4242 View Post

Have been experimenting with placement of the F12 the last few days. Noticed that it gets a little boomy when played loud and the back os about 8" from the wall in a corner location. When moved closer to the wall it sounds much tighter.
Anyone else experience this?

i have mine at around 8" from the wall from back of the sub, and around 6" off the side of the sub to wall on the side, corner location also. i agree its a little boomy especially when music plays in movies..im going to try moving it closer to the wall and see how it sounds.

nice informative article btw loveinthehd. i wish they would mention distance of side of the sub to the wall too.
post #2616 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradymartin View Post

i have mine at around 8" from the wall from back of the sub, and around 6" off the side of the sub to wall on the side, corner location also. i agree its a little boomy especially when music plays in movies..im going to try moving it closer to the wall and see how it sounds
Boom is sourced in the midbass, from 80-160Hz, not the sub bass and bass, 20-80Hz. While your sub signal may be low-passed at 80Hz most filters lack sufficient slope to remove enough above bandwidth content to stop boom. Also, at higher volumes the driver cone will create above bandwidth harmonics, exacerbating boom. A simple fix is to aim the sub at the wall. This acoustically filters the more directional above bandwidth frequencies, while also acoustically loading the driver for stronger output in the bass and sub bass.
post #2617 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Boom is sourced in the midbass, from 80-160Hz, not the sub bass and bass, 20-80Hz. While your sub signal may be low-passed at 80Hz most filters lack sufficient slope to remove enough above bandwidth content to stop boom. Also, at higher volumes the driver cone will create above bandwidth harmonics, exacerbating boom. A simple fix is to aim the sub at the wall. This acoustically filters the more directional above bandwidth frequencies, while also acoustically loading the driver for stronger output in the bass and sub bass.
Aim the driver or the port at the wall? What about bottom firing?
post #2618 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The smart one is the one who only listens until he has something useful to add to the discussion. I know this discussion doesnt really belong here and I am not a tree hugger but I understand where he is coming from. If you are trying to show how intelligent you are then try something besides being rude.

Which part did you find rude James? I thought it was quite polite! Really
'Adding to the discussion,' to indicate that the power usage of a subwoofer amp is very low. As someone else indicated, your DVR, cable box and especially your AVR consumes much more power that a sub amp! The original problem someone had was his auto on didn't work unless he turned up the volume, then when the sub turns on, turn the volume down, this is common with subs. Opinion, just don't think it's worth the time and/or effort to plug it in when needed & unplug it, or buy some special power bar just for this auto on problem.
ps; IQ, 124 but I don't think I'm trying to show my intelligence here! I do that at Mensa meetings but they don't usually let me in.
post #2619 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Aim the driver or the port at the wall? What about bottom firing?
The driver. Down firing works equally well.
post #2620 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

The driver. Down firing works equally well.
Are you suggesting lying a downfiring on its side (not the port side of course) so that the cone points at the wall? Or would the floor work for the same purpose as you are stating the wall will?
post #2621 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Boom is sourced in the midbass, from 80-160Hz, not the sub bass and bass, 20-80Hz. While your sub signal may be low-passed at 80Hz most filters lack sufficient slope to remove enough above bandwidth content to stop boom. Also, at higher volumes the driver cone will create above bandwidth harmonics, exacerbating boom. A simple fix is to aim the sub at the wall. This acoustically filters the more directional above bandwidth frequencies, while also acoustically loading the driver for stronger output in the bass and sub bass.

People frequently refer to a peaked response in the 45-60hz area as "boomy", correctly or not. Usually, nothing but EQ or placement/treatments will help that.
post #2622 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Boom is sourced in the midbass, from 80-160Hz, not the sub bass and bass, 20-80Hz. While your sub signal may be low-passed at 80Hz most filters lack sufficient slope to remove enough above bandwidth content to stop boom. Also, at higher volumes the driver cone will create above bandwidth harmonics, exacerbating boom. A simple fix is to aim the sub at the wall. This acoustically filters the more directional above bandwidth frequencies, while also acoustically loading the driver for stronger output in the bass and sub bass.

I thought it was odd that the sub started to sound boomy, regardless of how I moved it. The F12 suddenly didn't sound like it used to a day or two ago. So I started to look at the parameters on the Yamaha HTR-4064 receiver, and the cross over frequency for the sub out was set to 180! I normally keep it at 60 or 80 because the speakers have a frequency range starting at 80 hz. I must have been messing around with the settings and forgot to set it back to 80. After setting the sub crossover at 80, the boom went away, an odd muddiness went away, and the detail came back to bass instruments.

The F12 definitely sounds better when keeping the cross over frequency as low as possible. My understanding is that the sub cross over frequency set on the HTR 4064 cuts base to the front and satellite speakers at the same frequency. The 4 little Sony speakers I'm using have a nice tight bass sound, but they just can't produce it well below 80hz. They work well with the F12, and 80 hz seems to be a good crossover point for my setup.

Thanks for your post, it helped me realize what was going on with my setup.
post #2623 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by leninGHOLA View Post

People frequently refer to a peaked response in the 45-60hz area as "boomy", correctly or not..
Most untrained ears, and a fair percentage of trained ears for that matter, are off by a full octave when they estimate the bandwidth they're hearing. If it's boomy it's in the midbass.
Quote:
So I started to look at the parameters on the Yamaha HTR-4064 receiver, and the cross over frequency for the sub out was set to 180!
That definitely explains the midbass output. rolleyes.gif
post #2624 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by leninGHOLA View Post

People frequently refer to a peaked response in the 45-60hz area as "boomy", correctly or not..
Most untrained ears, and a fair percentage of trained ears for that matter, are off by a full octave when they estimate the bandwidth they're hearing. If it's boomy it's in the midbass.
Quote:
So I started to look at the parameters on the Yamaha HTR-4064 receiver, and the cross over frequency for the sub out was set to 180!
That definitely explains the midbass output. rolleyes.gif



People do not even agree on what frequency range the mid bass covers.



post #2625 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

People do not even agree on what frequency range the mid bass covers.
Bass was traditionally considered the octave from 40-80Hz, 40 Hz (41.2Hz to be precise) being the lowest fundamental of the double-bass and electric bass, and until the 90s the bottom of the range for most speakers. Mid bass was the next octave up, 80-160Hz, and when sub woofers came along sub bass was 20-40Hz. But not being strictly quantified by the engineering community other definitions exist.
post #2626 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

People do not even agree on what frequency range the mid bass covers.
Bass was traditionally considered the octave from 40-80Hz, 40 Hz (41.2Hz to be precise) being the lowest fundamental of the double-bass and electric bass, and until the 90s the bottom of the range for most speakers. Mid bass was the next octave up, 80-160Hz, and when sub woofers came along sub bass was 20-40Hz. But not being strictly quantified by the engineering community other definitions exist.


Definitions are all over the place.


post #2627 of 2834
How do you use the sub on two channel music and tv shows?
post #2628 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff6666p View Post

How do you use the sub on two channel music and tv shows?

Check your receiver's speaker settings. Set the mains to small, so that the sub will be given the low frequencies.
post #2629 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff.lebowski View Post

Check your receiver's speaker settings. Set the mains to small, so that the sub will be given the low frequencies.

speakers are set to small. it's two channel music (2,0). After setting the speaker to small and installing the sub i don't have bass anymore on two channel stuff.
post #2630 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff6666p View Post

speakers are set to small. it's two channel music (2,0). After setting the speaker to small and installing the sub i don't have bass anymore on two channel stuff.

That's weird. My receiver has the mains set to small and all 2 channel music has output from the sub.
post #2631 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff.lebowski View Post

That's weird. My receiver has the mains set to small and all 2 channel music has output from the sub.

I have the power set to auto. Could that be the reason why it's not working on two channel, because there not lfe signal going to to it so it won't go on?
post #2632 of 2834
Yep that was the reason. I put the sub on in the back and watched a two channel tv show and the sub was working.
post #2633 of 2834
Not expensive. Pretty common on Amazon. Here's a search, although some of these just provide extra energy savings and don't allow you to turn components on and off simultaneously. A lot of them do allow you to turn everything on just by powering your receiver, though.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_12?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=smart+power+strip&sprefix=smart+power+%2Celectronics%2C210
post #2634 of 2834
Just got my Bic vk12 sub. I pludded everything up and I can't get it to work. I've checked the cables and everything else works (I have an old sub). I checked the fuse and its fine.... I'm very disappointed and was looking forward to texting it out....and input?
post #2635 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by blatallic View Post

Just got my Bic vk12 sub. I pludded everything up and I can't get it to work. I've checked the cables and everything else works (I have an old sub). I checked the fuse and its fine.... I'm very disappointed and was looking forward to texting it out....and input?

Going to sound dumb, but do you have the switch turned to the on position ? If it's in the auto position, perhaps the signal settings are too low and it won't power on with the auto feature. Put the swith in the on position, then try again.
post #2636 of 2834
Yes,I did do that.I had to return it
post #2637 of 2834
My BIC F-12 hums VERY loudly after the home theater system powers off. It is set to auto off and is connected to the RCA jack via a bare wire to RCA connection. Any suggestions?
post #2638 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkrutherford View Post

My BIC F-12 hums VERY loudly after the home theater system powers off. It is set to auto off and is connected to the RCA jack via a bare wire to RCA connection. Any suggestions?
Buy a good subwoofer cable.
post #2639 of 2834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Buy a good subwoofer cable.
It's virtually impossible to find a 'bad' subwoofer cable. The only cable properties that matter are resistance, capacitance, inductance and shielding. Resistance is not an issue with interconnects. Capacitance and inductance only affect high frequencies, and shielding only prevents high frequency noise, not issues with sub bass frequencies.
Quote:
is connected to the RCA jack via a bare wire to RCA connection.
Say what?
post #2640 of 2834
"Say what" was my thought too. I just thought I would throw out the idea of a cable.
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