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The Ortheum Theater....here we go! - Page 2

post #31 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mapitc0 View Post

I'm not seeing why soffits are necessary. You could just save the effort and expense and put that into equipment and budget overruns.

I needed a soffit on one side to cover up some water & sewer lines. The other one is so the room stayed symmetrical.
post #32 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragodrago View Post

I hope your Electrician is qualified?? He should have pulled a ground wire in the conduit to the panel because
1. He is using raintight couplings insted of set screw type couplings to join the emt.
2. He goes into a PVC Lb before entering into the panel.
He should make sure everything is grounded and bonded to be at the same potential. Using PVC and EMT does not constitute proper bonding.
Essentially your new panel isn't at the same potential as the feeder panel, and any plugs that he runs from the new panel won't actually be grounded.
Just something I noticed.

I finally got to take a closer look at the "elbow" piece. It isn't PVS, I believe that it is "pot metal".
post #33 of 278
For a subpanel, it's code that you need both neutral AND ground to the panel, with isolation between the two. Your panel looks very similar to the Homeline (Square D) that I installed. The white wire is your neutral and I suspect that both of the wiring bars on the left and right are connected to each other across the top bus bar. If that's the case, your electrician needs to buy a grounding bar which screws into the subpanel case. Of course, you need a ground wire run from you main loadcenter to the subpanel to connect to the new grounding bar you added.

Here's a good how to link that shows how a subpanel should be connected. Definitely get in touch with your electrician to sort this out.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/e...nel/01/new.htm
post #34 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

For a subpanel, it's code that you need both neutral AND ground to the panel, with isolation between the two. Your panel looks very similar to the Homeline (Square D) that I installed. The white wire is your neutral and I suspect that both of the wiring bars on the left and right are connected to each other across the top bus bar. If that's the case, your electrician needs to buy a grounding bar which screws into the subpanel case. Of course, you need a ground wire run from you main loadcenter to the subpanel to connect to the new grounding bar you added.

Here's a good how to link that shows how a subpanel should be connected. Definitely get in touch with your electrician to sort this out.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/e...nel/01/new.htm


Does the ground need to be run in conduit back to the main panel? Can it be out in the open since it is ground? I will have him do it, but I'm just curious.
post #35 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

Does the ground need to be run in conduit back to the main panel? Can it be out in the open since it is ground? I will have him do it, but I'm just curious.

Jailguy,
Not sure about that....I'm not an electrician and don't know that level of code to give you an answer one way or the other, but I'd think a separate ground running outside of the conduit would be frowned on, especially since your guy saw the need to run conduit in the first place. After looking closer at your panel, it appears you have 2 wiring bars per side. Maybe one on each side is grounded to the enclosure, and the other two are tied together for the neutral, and the conduit is the ground back to the main loadcenter? Never heard of doing that but maybe it's acceptable. If you need to get an electrical inspection, you'll find out soon enough

In lieu of giving you bad guidance, you should just ask your electrician how he has the ground set up for the panel, knowing that you need neutral and ground at the subpanel with isolation between the two.
post #36 of 278
Thread Starter 
Few pic of the riser I just built, the osb is just resting on top, so I could see what it looks like. Including the bar, it is 96" long and 103½" wide.



post #37 of 278
Thread Starter 
I just received my 20U rack rails from sweetwater.com. I saw Jamis mention this place in his build thread. I would recomment them highly. They actually called me to notify me that my order was received and when they would ship it. When I received the package they actually had a few pieces of candy in the box. Just a few things that made me say wow, I wish all companies were like that.


Anyways back to the theater.... I'm just about done with running my electrical and will soon start on other wiring. What can't I forget to run, I've seen a thread about this, but can't seem to find it.

Speaker wire to all 7 location - I've seen people suggest running a second as a backup, is that a little overkill? Do I wire for 9.1?

Subwoofer- I plan on building 2 DIY subs. I've seen Speakon used before, what is best?

Projector - 1 or 2 HDMIs, how about components or DVI,vga,cat5/6?

USB - I've seen some people run USB hubs to their risers. Is this a good idea?

What am I forgetting? Where else should I run Cat5/6?

THANKS for any suggestions!
post #38 of 278
Minor code requirements vary from place to place, but power distribution/grounding is fairly universal. You will need an insulated ground ran back to the point of origin within the conduit. Like previously mentioned, rain tight fittings do not give a "bonded" rating to installations.

The sub panel's neutral needs to be isolated from the panel's chasis/ground. This is normally done by removing either a small jumper bar or a large coloured set screw located on one of the neutral bars.

The best way to handle the situation is to be onsite when the inspection takes place, and be certain that the inspector checks the panel's hook up. That way the inspector can provide you with a deficiency list that you can pass on to your electrician if something has been overlooked. You'd be surprised at how many panels I've done that simply get the sticker without being opened.

With that out of the way. You space looks great. Can't wait to follow the progress.
post #39 of 278
Jailguy:

I really thought about the wiring that I would need for my theater. I'm sure I've overdone it, but here's what I did in my theater:

The plan called for wiring as follows:

Front projector location to the equipment closet:
2 x HDMI
1 x Component cable
2 x Cat 5
1 x RG-6
Electrical cable (dead - using a PowerBridge type of solution)

Front projector location to screen wall:
2 x Cat 5

Rear Projector location to equipment closet:
2 x cat 5
1 x RG-6
Electrical cable (dead - using a PowerBridge type of solution)

Rear projector location to screen wall:
1 x cat 5
1 x RG-6

Equipment closet to screen wall:
2 x RG-6 (for subs)
4 x cat 5 (2 x for behind screen wall, 2 x for bar area)
1 x HDMI (for bar TV)
1 x Component cable with audio (for bar TV)
1 x RG-6 (for Bar TV)
2 x electrical cables (dead - using a PowerBridge type of solution...1 for bar TV, second for area behind screen wall - subs, etc)

Equipment closet to riser location:
2 x cat 5
2 x RG-6

Equipment closet to back of theater:
2 x RG-6
2 x cat 5

In addition, we installed a HDMI from the wiring closet to the bathroom (over the toilet location). This may be used to rebroadcast what is showing in the theater. We'll see if it gets used!

Hope this helps. Ping me if you need details.

CJ
post #40 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinghot View Post

Minor code requirements vary from place to place, but power distribution/grounding is fairly universal. You will need an insulated ground ran back to the point of origin within the conduit. Like previously mentioned, rain tight fittings do not give a "bonded" rating to installations.

The sub panel's neutral needs to be isolated from the panel's chasis/ground. This is normally done by removing either a small jumper bar or a large coloured set screw located on one of the neutral bars.

The best way to handle the situation is to be onsite when the inspection takes place, and be certain that the inspector checks the panel's hook up. That way the inspector can provide you with a deficiency list that you can pass on to your electrician if something has been overlooked. You'd be surprised at how many panels I've done that simply get the sticker without being opened.

With that out of the way. You space looks great. Can't wait to follow the progress.


What size ground can be used? I thought I read about the ground not needing to be as large as the rest. Could be wrong. There doesn't seem like much room is left in the conduit. Already has the 3 3# wire in a 1" conduit. I'm gonna be pissed if the electrician messed up my stuff.
post #41 of 278
Thread Starter 
I just got my 6 zone grafik eye qs yesterday. I can't wait to try it out, but I need to finish up a little more wiring before I'm ready. I need to find a place that has replacement covers since I want black. They guy I got it from only had white and gave me a deal if I got it without the covers.

post #42 of 278
Keep me posted if you find a source for covers. I have looked on the web, there is a site in the master thread, but their descriptions are leave me scratching my head as to whether its a cover for the QS line or the older one.

This is the one mentioned in the master thread:

http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/
post #43 of 278
in!
post #44 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

Speaker wire to all 7 location - I've seen people suggest running a second as a backup, is that a little overkill? Do I wire for 9.1?

I'm no expert by any means. But to me, as common sense, I'd do as much as possible (double wiring, 9.1, etc) so you only have to do it ONCE. There will be nothing more maddening then having to do something over again because you didn't take a couple extra minutes and couple extra bucks when you were originally installing.
post #45 of 278
Stick around with home theater long enough, and you'll need some wiring flexibility. First we had 5.1, then 7.1 and some 9.1 options, and now it's height and effect channels....
post #46 of 278
Thread Starter 
I never thought I'd be excited to get a 50lb box of wires. I received 2 packages from monoprice & smarthome yesterday. I ordered an IR repeater, 8" in ceiling monoprice speakers for the kids room (future lobby/concession), monoprice power bridge, bulk cable wall plate, 250' of 14g speaker wire, 100' of 12g for the subs, 2 HDMI, 1 component RCA, 1 VGA, 8 cat 5e cables of different lengths for future proofing, and 2 3.5mm extension wires for IR. I hope I didn't forget to order anything!



I hate packing peanuts!


post #47 of 278
Are you planning on using any type of PVC conduit for your wire runs? I highly suggest it. That way you can always run some string through it to attach any "other" wires needed to be pulled at a later date. If you do go this route, make sure to get a good size PVC to allow for the "ends" (fittings) of the cables to flow freely through as you pull them.

Build looks sweet! About the same size as my project....

dbldare
post #48 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

and 2 3.5mm extension wires for IR.


I hate the peanuts too, but I love the goodies under them!

If you don't mind sharing...Which IR kit are these cables for? I just bought one of xantech's kits and need to extend the wire about 40'.

Thanks and enjoy the build...before you know it you wont have anything to do but watch movies.....

Longrange10X
post #49 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange10X View Post

I hate the peanuts too, but I love the goodies under them!

If you don't mind sharing...Which IR kit are these cables for? I just bought one of xantech's kits and need to extend the wire about 40'.

Thanks and enjoy the build...before you know it you wont have anything to do but watch movies.....

Longrange10X

Sorry, for the slow responce. I ordered something like this from monoprice for the IR extender. http://www.smarthome.com/8186/Xantec...-784-00/p.aspx

All the Cat5e is for future proofing.
post #50 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

Are you planning on using any type of PVC conduit for your wire runs? I highly suggest it. That way you can always run some string through it to attach any "other" wires needed to be pulled at a later date. If you do go this route, make sure to get a good size PVC to allow for the "ends" (fittings) of the cables to flow freely through as you pull them.

Build looks sweet! About the same size as my project....

dbldare


I plan on running smurf tube for the speaker wires and some sort of PVC for the rest. I won't be actually running the wires in them yet. Just for future proofing.
post #51 of 278
Thread Starter 
Ok, so I'm getting WAY ahead of myself as I've just started my sub build. I got a good deal on the sub and couldn't let it just sit in the box for the next year!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1178073

I posted a while back about building a sonotube, (which I may still do once my theater is done) but for now I wanted to build something a little smaller for my living room. I decided on NEODAN's easy button max design for the time being. I have no previous woodworking skills, but I'm fairly handy. It will be powered by a EP2500. I've read through NEODAN's thread a few times, but I don't think I ever found what the final tune was for the box in it's MAX configuration. Anybody know?

So, it has been a few years since I worked with MDF. I forgot how much I hate it. I really should have had on a mask. I used a table saw to cut up 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF. (bonus! I got home and looked at the receipt, they charged me for 1/2" mdf)



I am not known for having a neat work area. Plus I'm in the middle of replacing all my windows, a little but of siding, and new trim on the inside. All while building this sub and trying to get my theater done in the next couple years.



Gen II Maelstrom X I just got.



I plan on getting a jasper jig for my future projects. (When I'm done with everything else I'd like to build some statements for my LCR.) In the meantime, I just built my own circle jig.



Of coarse I broke my cutting bit with only a little but left to go. I think I may have tried to cut too much. I did 2 passes and should have done 3. I finished the cut with my jigsaw.



I don't have a lot of clamps, so I had to make due. This is sitting out in my driveway right now.

post #52 of 278
Thread Starter 
I just ordered the 1.25" roundover bit last night. I also ordered a 5/8" roundover for all the edges. I plan on finishing this in a DIY bedliner since eventually it will be in my HT behind a AT screen.

Today's progress. I can't go much further until I receive the large router but for the port edges.

Gluing the port runners to the bottom.


Gluing the back on.
post #53 of 278
Thread Starter 
Glued up one more side.


Couldn't help but dry-fit the rest of the pieces except the one side and the front baffle.


Gluing up the rest of the sides.


and the front baffle.


New playhouse!
post #54 of 278
Thread Starter 
I finished my sub and had to put it in my living room to try it out. I LOVE IT! This room is open to our entryway as well as the dining room/kitchen. I'm sure it will sound even better EQ'd in my sealed theater.

Something new for my 3yr old to climb on.

This is her Jimmy "Superfly" Snuka impression!
post #55 of 278
That picture is hilarious! That sub looks pretty nice. How are you going to finish it?

CJ
post #56 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post



Sweet wheels bro. Love the color scheme.

ROCK ON!!!! :P
post #57 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJO View Post

That picture is hilarious! That sub looks pretty nice. How are you going to finish it?

CJ

I agree. That picture made me laugh out loud. She is SOOOOOO adorable
post #58 of 278
Nice Snuka impersination!!

Great job on the sub, must sound awesome.
post #59 of 278
I love the 'Clampressor'...

That is one honkin' sub!
post #60 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJO View Post

That picture is hilarious! That sub looks pretty nice. How are you going to finish it?

CJ

Finish it? C'mon bare mdf is the next big trend!

J/K! I'm going to finish it in a DIY Bedliner. One place quoted me $180 for spray on liner! ouch! The finish isn't all that important because all the speaker will be behind a false wall and AT screen.
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