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Irish Copper Top Tavern & Theater--An extremely modest build!! - Page 9

post #241 of 1361
Thread Starter 
An overview of the bar..
post #242 of 1361
Very nice edge on the bar!
post #243 of 1361
Nice work Mr. Questions. One recommendation. On your drip tray....I did just as you, and put down a wide grained piece of oak...I went to Lowes and got a $20 sheet of cabinet grade 1/4 in ply...tight grain and put it OVER my other piece in the drip tray....100 times better looking...you have the room and it will flush out your trim nearest the bartender....I love your work... keep posting.
post #244 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Nice work Mr. Questions. One recommendation. On your drip tray....I did just as you, and put down a wide grained piece of oak...I went to Lowes and got a $20 sheet of cabinet grade 1/4 in ply...tight grain and put it OVER my other piece in the drip tray....100 times better looking...you have the room and it will flush out your trim nearest the bartender....I love your work... keep posting.

You mean a 1/4" peice over the top of the drip tray? What that is is the 3/4" sanded ply that the bar top is and I just sanded it and wood conditioned and stained. Should I use the 1/4" oak stock over it? That is basically what I cut my end cap out of and it comes in various widths and lengths.
post #245 of 1361
yes! Wide grain looks a bit ordinary, your bar is extraordinary!!!

EDIT...EDIT...it's a 8X4 sheet of cabinet grade 1/4 inch PLYWOOD, not the 1/4 inch solid oak!
post #246 of 1361
Keep the pics coming, It's looking like a bar now...almost open for business.
Knowing the difficulties of the end cap, You did a great job on it. Can't wait to see though whole thing stained.
post #247 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

yes! Wide grain looks a bit ordinary, your bar is extraordinary!!!

EDIT...EDIT...it's a 8X4 sheet of cabinet grade 1/4 inch PLYWOOD, not the 1/4 inch solid oak!

What is the difference between the 4x8 sheet and the oak stock? I would only need a small amount and I would assume that I would gain the same thing with the stock but I may be wrong....correct me if i am wrong as I have been a few times in life...
post #248 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LSWHO View Post

Keep the pics coming, It's looking like a bar now...almost open for business.
Knowing the difficulties of the end cap, You did a great job on it. Can't wait to see though whole thing stained.

Man you ask alot of me.....I mean you thought I was MIA or atleast drunk next to the new beverage center so I came through with updates for you and now you want stain too??? Maybe I will have to post the 75 random pics of the rail installed......will that hold you over? As for open for business.....I hope so. I want to get it to the point that I can pour the e-tex atleast on the drip tray so that I can work on installing the cabinets and working on the back bar area. I am holding off on that until the e-tex is done to give myself enough work space back there. But I also have been working on the half wall bar. I have wood to stain and poly there as well as the dreaded AV rack area....that I have NO idea what to do with. It is all dryalled and I am painting it black but I am unsure what or how to do shelves in there. Any input from anyone? I dont need anything really fancy just some shelving probably out of MDF painted black so that its mainly unseen but for some reason I am totally blank on this part of things ........
post #249 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

What is the difference between the 4x8 sheet and the oak stock? I would only need a small amount and I would assume that I would gain the same thing with the stock but I may be wrong....correct me if i am wrong as I have been a few times in life...


Oak stock is more expensive, the 1/4 ply is a bit cheaper....your choice.
post #250 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Oak stock is more expensive, the 1/4 ply is a bit cheaper....your choice.

But other than price its the same thing? I used the oak stock on some other things in the room so I am more familiar with that. I only ask due to lack of knowledge
post #251 of 1361
can you use the solid oak stock without seams except the 90 degree turns? I was not aware that is was long enough.
post #252 of 1361
I love this great bar build thread. Very impressive indeed.

Hey - have you ever considered complementing your bar by building a home theater near it?
post #253 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

can you use the solid oak stock without seams except the 90 degree turns? I was not aware that is was long enough.

Yea my Menards has oak stock in various widths and lengths up to 12' long. I can get it in 1/4" thickness as well. Maybe that would be a good idea. Thanks for the tips.
post #254 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hanesian View Post

I love this great bar build thread. Very impressive indeed.

Hey - have you ever considered complementing your bar by building a home theater near it?

You know I hadn't previously considered it but thats a GREAT idea... Maybe I will incorporate that in my build....
post #255 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Heres a few pics of the rail instalation without the copper covered up


post #256 of 1361
]Nice job Steve , like you i built my bar with a lot of ideas from these forums . For those who happen along this thread - yup you can use anything on a bar top . The copper is a great idea . I actually used black - ribbed rubber mat, glued down and covered with E- tex . Looks great and most of all it's different . By the way , i've since finished the bar but too lazy to take more pics - LOL


post #257 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

]Nice job Steve , like you i built my bar with a lot of ideas from these forums . For those who happen along this thread - yup you can use anything on a bar top . The copper is a great idea . I actually used black - ribbed rubber mat, glued down and covered with E- tex . Looks great and most of all it's different . By the way , i've since finished the bar but too lazy to take more pics - LOL



Looks really good, thanks for the post and opinions. Any suggestions or recomendations on the Etex pour? I have never done anything like it so any tips, do's and dont's ahead of time are nice to hear.
post #258 of 1361
Hmmmm - OK - here we go.
1 - the more level the bartop the less Etex needed (1/8" - 1/4" would be prime thickness)
2 - I noticed your elbow rail but couldn't tell if you trimmed the back of the bartop too .
Obviously you need to do this to trap (dam) the Etex
3 - the Etex will flow into any gaps thus using more than necessary and could allow to flow into unwanted areas or onto floor .White glue forms a good gasket before putting any wood down (trim) on bartop . If wood is already down and you have gaps -, white glue can be used as a caulk . Don't use any silicons for this purpose , Etex won't adhere to some or most silicones .
4 - follow the instructions - vacuum real well a day before pouring , allowing dust to settle . I never tented my work area as suggested and got very little dust on my surface .
5 - do your pour all at once - might need a few hands to mix everything all at once and pour all at once
- Pieces of cardboard do work best to spread the Etex.

 

Environmental Technology Inc[1]. tips.pdf 63.357421875k . file
post #259 of 1361
IUSteve,
I love that copper. I will be watching this thread very close since I am in the process of starting my bar top. I also intend to do the enviro-tex on mine. I'm wanting to add the chicago style bar rail myself so I may have some questions as to how it attaches to the bar top.
post #260 of 1361
If you want bar building ideas - go here . This is where most of us started .

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277
post #261 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT1 View Post

IUSteve,
I love that copper. I will be watching this thread very close since I am in the process of starting my bar top. I also intend to do the enviro-tex on mine. I'm wanting to add the chicago style bar rail myself so I may have some questions as to how it attaches to the bar top.

Thanks for looking, and feel free to ask as many questions as you need to....heck thats what I do. If I cant answer them there are several guys that check in here often that have helped me a ton and have alot of input you will find helpful as well so feel free.
post #262 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

If you want bar building ideas - go here . This is where most of us started .

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277

That is just about dead on......feels like ages ago that I started reading that thread in its "early stages" between that one and Randy's build (HeyNow) they got me off to a jump start then I found Dennis'(LSWHO) thread (Corey Lane Cinema Bar) and it was all downhill from there.
post #263 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LSWHO View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

Hmmmm - OK - here we go.
1 - the more level the bartop the less Etex needed (1/8" - 1/4" would be prime thickness)
2 - I noticed your elbow rail but couldn't tell if you trimmed the back of the bartop too .
Obviously you need to do this to trap (dam) the Etex
3 - the Etex will flow into any gaps thus using more than necessary and could allow to flow into unwanted areas or onto floor .White glue forms a good gasket before putting any wood down (trim) on bartop . If wood is already down and you have gaps -, white glue can be used as a caulk . Don't use any silicons for this purpose , Etex won't adhere to some or most silicones .
4 - follow the instructions - vacuum real well a day before pouring , allowing dust to settle . I never tented my work area as suggested and got very little dust on my surface .
5 - do your pour all at once - might need a few hands to mix everything all at once and pour all at once
- Pieces of cardboard do work best to spread the Etex.

In this pic where the arrow is pointing I have a peice of 1"x4" oak and then a peice of moulding on top of it forming a "lip" on the counter top. My question is I plan on pouring Etex here and wonder if it will find its way through or between the moulding and the 1"x4" oak board and end up running down the front of it and on to the floor? And if so what can I do to keep it from going through these seams and similar seams?
post #264 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

In this pic where the arrow is pointing I have a peice of 1"x4" oak and then a peice of moulding on top of it forming a "lip" on the counter top. My question is I plan on pouring Etex here and wonder if it will find its way through or between the moulding and the 1"x4" oak board and end up running down the front of it and on to the floor? And if so what can I do to keep it from going through these seams and similar seams?

I used regular blue tape when I did mine and it held it fine. Did you use glue when you put the molding on top of the 1x4? If so I think you'll be fine but I would add some blue tape just in case. When I did my rail I had the holes already drilled for my molding pieces (poured it before I attached my moldings) I just put the blue tape on the bottom and it held the envirotex just fine from dripping on the floor.
post #265 of 1361
I have a question for those experienced bar top builders. What is the depth of your bar tops? At this point I have a 42" tall kneewall that I plan to set my bar top on once it's built. My thought is if I make the top itself at 15 to 18 inches deep, by the time I add the bar rail I would have 21 to 24 inches of bar top depth. Does this thinking sound correct?
post #266 of 1361
My bar top excluding the bar rail and drip tray is only 12 inches or so. Plenty of room.
post #267 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT1 View Post

I have a question for those experienced bar top builders. What is the depth of your bar tops? At this point I have a 42" tall kneewall that I plan to set my bar top on once it's built. My thought is if I make the top itself at 15 to 18 inches deep, by the time I add the bar rail I would have 21 to 24 inches of bar top depth. Does this thinking sound correct?

Mine is a sheet of 3/4" ply that is roughly 18" (without measuring) which leaves me roughly 3 1/2" drip tray area, and a little less than 3" area for the bar rail to mount too. I then used a 12" wide peice of 3/4" mdf on top of the 3/4" ply to give the rail something to rest on. The reason I used the 12" width is that is the width of the copper roll I got and though I havent used the bar yet for its true purpose 12" surface area is plenty...I think that too wide is overkill and waisted space.
post #268 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT1 View Post

I have a question for those experienced bar top builders. What is the depth of your bar tops? At this point I have a 42" tall kneewall that I plan to set my bar top on once it's built. My thought is if I make the top itself at 15 to 18 inches deep, by the time I add the bar rail I would have 21 to 24 inches of bar top depth. Does this thinking sound correct?

Mine is also only 12" wide of actual bar top not counting the drip rail or the bar rail. Plenty of room to drink and eat at with a full dinner plate and everything. I usually during the week sit there with the laptop and eat dinner while watching T.V. and have plenty of room.
18 inches deep would be overkill in my opinion...bar top speaking
post #269 of 1361
Nice job on the bar - that is my next major project in the basement. I am still mulling over designs and like the originality of your copper top bar....

I will be lurking as you finish. The width of the top was a question I had too. I measured some of the ones at the store and they we 12-14 inches deep (without accounting for the rail) so 12" should be good?
cheers
jerry
post #270 of 1361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spydrman View Post

Nice job on the bar - that is my next major project in the basement. I am still mulling over designs and like the originality of your copper top bar....

I will be lurking as you finish. The width of the top was a question I had too. I measured some of the ones at the store and they we 12-14 inches deep (without accounting for the rail) so 12" should be good?
cheers
jerry

Thanks for looking and feel free to ask any questions or give any tips you feel necessary. While I cant take credit for the copper idea.....I stole that one fair and square but I am trying to replicate my version with the upmost respect to the originator of the idea. Yes 12" is plenty for a beer and a dinner plate as your elbow room is actually on the rail itself. In my case I will have cabinets behind the bar and if the top was wider than 12" I wouldnt be able to reach the bar patrons to give them their drinks only to slide them acrossed to them. Again thanks for looking and feel free to chime in anytime as I will be working for a while here as I have this bar as well as the half wall bar and a theater to build......fun days ahead for me!!
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