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Parasound Owners Thread - Page 23

post #661 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blainthemono View Post

There is alot of praise, and following, for the Oppo 83se and alot of beta reviews on the upcoming 95. I sold a Denon 3930ci for the 83SE and have been very happy with the move. Great info in the Oppo threads.

I have the 83SE and I am very happy with it. I have to ask where have you seen alot of beta reviews for the 95? Do you have any links to these reviews?

Bill
post #662 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by steinram View Post

According to Parasound both the A21 and the A51 is rated at 25W in standby.

That's odd. Do you have a link or could you explain how you got that info? I have the A21 amp and have had a Kill-o-Watt meter hooked up to it for a few weeks now to monitor this for my wife. I'm finding that the A21 draws 150w when it is turned on (but not playing any music)! I'm not sure if this is what nvision was referring to when he mentioned the amp is 'idle'? And if you switch it off (but you still see the red logo glowing faintly) I dont even get a reading with the Kill-o-watt - 0w. When it's playing music at a fairly loud (but not ear-crushing) level it can go to 160-170w.

FWIW, the JC2 pre runs at about 30w when turned on whether it is playing music or not.
post #663 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by nnck View Post

That's odd. Do you have a link or could you explain how you got that info? I have the A21 amp and have had a Kill-o-Watt meter hooked up to it for a few weeks now to monitor this for my wife. I'm finding that the A21 draws 150w when it is turned on (but not playing any music)! I'm not sure if this is what nvision was referring to when he mentioned the amp is 'idle'? And if you switch it off (but you still see the red logo glowing faintly) I dont even get a reading with the Kill-o-watt - 0w. When it's playing music at a fairly loud (but not ear-crushing) level it can go to 160-170w.

FWIW, the JC2 pre runs at about 30w when turned on whether it is playing music or not.

It's from the user manuals. You will find the rated consumption at the
data page (second to last). If you don't have your at hand they can be found at:

http://parasound.com/pdfs/A51Manual.pdf

http://parasound.com/pdfs/A21Manual.pdf

I don't believe turned on, but not playing any music qualifies at standby (I would call it idle). In that mode you have turned on all the output transistors, and thus increasing the current drawn by the amp. I assumed standby mode is when the amp is connected to the power socket and turned off using the 12v remote trigger.
post #664 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by steinram View Post

It's from the user manuals. You will find the rated consumption at the
data page (second to last). If you don't have your at hand they can be found at:

http://parasound.com/pdfs/A51Manual.pdf

http://parasound.com/pdfs/A21Manual.pdf

I don't believe turned on, but not playing any music qualifies at standby (I would call it idle). In that mode you have turned on all the output transistors, and thus increasing the current drawn by the amp. I assumed standby mode is when the amp is connected to the power socket and turned off using the 12v remote trigger.

You may be right about what qualifies as 'standby' and what qualifies as 'idle'. It's still very odd though. I know my the Kill-O-Watt is not lying, and when the amp is connected to the power socket and turned off using the 12v remote trigger (as you say) I get a reading of 0 watts. Can anyone else confirm this?

I do see what the manual says in the links you provided. Thats why I'm rather curious.
post #665 of 1905
sorry guys, i meant to ask about "standby". thanks for the correction, great group!
post #666 of 1905
If I understand the kilowatt meter correctly. It seems to me you should be showing
0.025 of 1 kilowatt on your meter's display. How many digits to the right of a decimal point does the meter display
post #667 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by vulcan00 View Post

If I understand the kilowatt meter correctly. It seems to me you should be showing
0.025 of 1 kilowatt on your meter's display. How many digits to the right of a decimal point does the meter display

It's called a Kill-A-Watt meter, but when it is reading wattage it reads in just the Watts - I believe it only reads in single digits (no numbers beyond the decimal). See the second picture in this link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kill_A_Watt

There are other buttons to press on it that allow you to monitor voltage, current or keep track of Killowatt-hours.

The Wattage reading is definitely 0 Watts when the unit is turned off.
post #668 of 1905
Just recently got myself a Parasound 7100 and have discovered that when driven via Optical input it cannot drive more that 2 V rms to the main speaker output . The handbook state it can do 8V rms. Anyone else have this problem? I suspect it can drive 8V if driven via analog input , but have not tested this
Peter
post #669 of 1905
Has anyone here tried using the surround by-pass on the Parasound P7? I'm trying to integrate the P7 with the Marantz AV8003. According to my reading of the P7 manual I connect the AV8003 to the P7 (from the pre-outs to one of the p7's 2 surround inputs) & from there to the power amps. Except that I can't get any sound through this configuration. Is there something I am missing?
post #670 of 1905
salmon, call Parasound tech suppport and they can talk you through it.
post #671 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicagorep View Post

salmon, call Parasound tech suppport and they can talk you through it.

Thanks Robert, unfortunately they are closed until Monday ...
post #672 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by salmonsc View Post

Has anyone here tried using the surround by-pass on the Parasound P7? I'm trying to integrate the P7 with the Marantz AV8003. According to my reading of the P7 manual I connect the AV8003 to the P7 (from the pre-outs to one of the p7's 2 surround inputs) & from there to the power amps. Except that I can't get any sound through this configuration. Is there something I am missing?

salmonsc,

Did you assign the correct input to be used for the HT Bypass?

From the P7 manual:

Press the Enter button to set the Theater Bypass option for In 9/Multi 1.
• Press the VOL Up or VOL Down buttons to select
Bypass Yes or No for In 9/Multi 1.
• Press the Enter button to set In 10/Multi 2.
• Press the VOL Up or VOL Down buttons to select
Bypass Yes or No for In 10/Multi 2.
• After you finish, press the Exit Setup button to return
to the main Setup menu.


It seems pretty straight forward but much more than setting up the 2100 for HT Bypass use. The other difference between the 2100 and the P7 is that the P7 has to be powered up to use the HT Bypass.

Bill
post #673 of 1905
What he said... It is in the manual. And do make sure it's powered up.

Good luck and let us know if you get it working. I use mine for Satellite TV sound through an old Nuforce AVP17--works like a charm.
post #674 of 1905
Thanks folks, I did actually read the manual! ;^)

Still no joy. I get sound with only the P7 or only the AV8003 in the system - it's trying to get them to work together that creates problems. I'll have another try tomorrow, otherwise I guess I'll call Parasound next week.

Thanks for your moral support!
post #675 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by nnck View Post

It's called a Kill-A-Watt meter, but when it is reading wattage it reads in just the Watts - I believe it only reads in single digits (no numbers beyond the decimal). See the second picture in this link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kill_A_Watt

There are other buttons to press on it that allow you to monitor voltage, current or keep track of Killowatt-hours.

The Wattage reading is definitely 0 Watts when the unit is turned off.

I'm also interested in learning what is meant by standby power.

I'm thinking of adding the A23 to my 2-channel system that is currently using a stereo receiver only. The receiver has pre-outs, but no trigger. I'm thinking of adding the amp first and then as the budget allows, adding a new preamp down the road.

For my situation, the amp will have to sit at the bottom of a cabinet (with an open back) behind closed doors when not in use. I'm concerned about the A23's spec of 25W standby. I was hoping this was for idle power.

I was looking at the 2125 for comparison and it spec's 3W for standby and could be more attractive for this reason.

On the other hand, if the Kill-a-watt readings are correct, I may have nothing to worry about...

Would Parasound customer service be where I can go to get the definitive answer to this?

Thanks in advance!
post #676 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by tt_toe View Post

I'm also interested in learning what is meant by standby power.

I'm thinking of adding the A23 to my 2-channel system that is currently using a stereo receiver only. The receiver has pre-outs, but no trigger. I'm thinking of adding the amp first and then as the budget allows, adding a new preamp down the road.

For my situation, the amp will have to sit at the bottom of a cabinet (with an open back) behind closed doors when not in use. I'm concerned about the A23's spec of 25W standby. I was hoping this was for idle power.

I was looking at the 2125 for comparison and it spec's 3W for standby and could be more attractive for this reason.

On the other hand, if the Kill-a-watt readings are correct, I may have nothing to worry about...

Would Parasound customer service be where I can go to get the definitive answer to this?

Thanks in advance!

I have been hoping that someone else with a meter could do a quick test to verify what I see. Only takes a few minutes.

My meter is still plugged in (monitoring my Killowatt-hour usage for a month just for fun). Readings always 0W when the A23 is switched to standby. When turned on, but not playing music, the reading is 150W. I found this to be a bit surprising as well.
post #677 of 1905
I have a Halo A21 for my main speakers and am looking for an amplifier for the center channel in a 3 channel HT set up. One possibility is a 125 watt stereo amplifier (could be the Classic 2125 or the A23) bridged to mono. The complication here is that the center channel is 4 ohm, and Parasound does not recommend bridging in this case (at least according to the instructions for the A21). Another possibility would be a monoblock in the 200-300 watt range. This would mean another manufacturer, and sound match might be an issue.

I would welcome any suggestions, including recommendations for a specific amplifier.

Thanks.
post #678 of 1905
I have the same scenario and was recommended using one channel of the a23. At 4 ohm Parasound said it'd get 225W as only using one channel would help the power supply.
post #679 of 1905
Or of course bi-amp with the a23 if the center speaker allows
post #680 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn94 View Post

Well, after finally locating an authorized dealer with a good return policy (about 1.5 hour drive from home), I ordered a Parasound Classic 5250 and have been using it for about a week now. I was not able to audition this amp prior to purchase, so I was relying on feedback from Parasound owners, many e-mail exchanges with Richard at Parasound, and a dealer willing to work with me (one much closer to home could not offer a return option, so they were out).

Long story short, I am thrilled with the performance of this amp and am surprised how much improvement I noticed over my old Hafler amps, so much so that I am seriously reconsidering my decision to look for speakers to replace my ADS L1290s. Parasound may have just saved me a couple grand!

I want to thank the owners here who provided great feedback that helped me make a decision.

Bad news, my 1 year old Parasound 5250 is having issues. It's periodically making clicking noises (relays?) with the sound cutting off and on. I spoke with a tech at Parasound earlier this week and he had me turn off the 12v trigger to see if that was the issue. Well, even in manual mode tonight it was doing the same thing. Looks like it will need servicing.

Has anyone else had this problem?
post #681 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn94 View Post

Bad news, my 1 year old Parasound 5250 is having issues. It's periodically making clicking noises (relays?) with the sound cutting off and on. I spoke with a tech at Parasound earlier this week and he had me turn off the 12v trigger to see if that was the issue. Well, even in manual mode tonight it was doing the same thing. Looks like it will need servicing.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Anyone?
post #682 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn94 View Post

Anyone?

My 5250 is one year old as well and I have not experienced this issue.
post #683 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by UTHT View Post

My 5250 is one year old as well and I have not experienced this issue.

Thanks for the reply.

I took my 5250 to the Parasound/Halo dealer today (they are 90 miles away ) and they will send it to Parasound for repairs. Since they do mostly custom installs, they don't keep much equipment on hand. As such, they did not have a 5 channel amp on hand to loan to me, but they did have a 2125 which I'll use until I get my 5250 back. This shop, Sound & Image Design in Richmond VA, has been very good to me in the past, so I'm confident I'm in good hands.

Out of curiosity I did a web search to see if others have reported the same problem. I found next to nothing which I'll take to mean that Parasound amps tend to be very reliable (I use to have a 750A that never gave me any problems).
post #684 of 1905
I've had an A51, an A52, and a P7 with no issues.
post #685 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn94 View Post

Thanks for the reply.

I took my 5250 to the Parasound/Halo dealer today (they are 90 miles away ) and they will send it to Parasound for repairs. Since they do mostly custom installs, they don't keep much equipment on hand. As such, they did not have a 5 channel amp on hand to loan to me, but they did have a 2125 which I'll use until I get my 5250 back. This shop, Sound & Image Design in Richmond VA, has been very good to me in the past, so I'm confident I'm in good hands.

Out of curiosity I did a web search to see if others have reported the same problem. I found next to nothing which I'll take to mean that Parasound amps tend to be very reliable (I use to have a 750A that never gave me any problems).

UPDATE:

I have to give serious kudos to Parasound. They received my amp, repaired it, and shipped it out, in less than one day! Talk about FAST turnover time!

So it looks like I won't be without my 5250 for too much longer.

BTW, turned out to be some "intermittent solder connections" in the power supply.
post #686 of 1905
Anybody know much about the HCA-1500A? I have a chance to pick one up used. I already have an HCA-750 - wondering if there will be any discernible difference and in particular, more headroom.
post #687 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osamede View Post

Anybody know much about the HCA-1500A? I have a chance to pick one up used. I already have an HCA-750 - wondering if there will be any discernible difference and in particular, more headroom.

I have four Parasound amps in my home theater rig and the 1500A is one of them. I bought it off eBay about 4 years ago. I use it to drive a pair of Infinity Prelude MTS front l/r towers. Seem to have plenty of power and sound fine. I was using a 1000A to drive the towers and noticed a big difference moving up to the 1500A. The peak current is what is the primary difference between these models. The 1500 has 60 amps compared to 45 amps for the 1000A and 20 amps for the 750A. So, moving from the 750A to the 1500A is a big jump in power, should you need it. I can attest personally to the importance of high current speakers having a dramatic effect on even fairly small speakers. I had a Denon 3806 AVR and was only using the internal amps on the AVR to drive the surround speakers in my home theater ( I was using the parasounds for the fronts and center). I moved up to a dedicated pre/pro that didn't have amps and purchased the little 275 Parasound (30 amps peak current) to drive the surrounds. It made a HUGE difference in the sound quality coming from these speakers. The speakers are fairly large for surround speakers but they do not have any drivers bigger than 5-1/4". Now, Blu-Rays with Dolby HD and DTS-HD MA that have a good surround track sound much, much better.

BTW, the 1500A is fairly similar to the A21/A23 Halo models and they sell for a pretty penny.
post #688 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

I have four Parasound amps in my home theater rig and the 1500A is one of them. I bought it off eBay about 4 years ago. I use it to drive a pair of Infinity Prelude MTS front l/r towers. Seem to have plenty of power and sound fine. I was using a 1000A to drive the towers and noticed a big difference moving up to the 1500A. The peak current is what is the primary difference between these models. The 1500 has 60 amps compared to 45 amps for the 1000A and 20 amps for the 750A. So, moving from the 750A to the 1500A is a big jump in power, should you need it. I can attest personally to the importance of high current speakers having a dramatic effect on even fairly small speakers. I had a Denon 3806 AVR and was only using the internal amps on the AVR to drive the surround speakers in my home theater ( I was using the parasounds for the fronts and center). I moved up to a dedicated pre/pro that didn't have amps and purchased the little 275 Parasound (30 amps peak current) to drive the surrounds. It made a HUGE difference in the sound quality coming from these speakers. The speakers are fairly large for surround speakers but they do not have any drivers bigger than 5-1/4". Now, Blu-Rays with Dolby HD and DTS-HD MA that have a good surround track sound much, much better.

BTW, the 1500A is fairly similar to the A21/A23 Halo models and they sell for a pretty penny.

You indeed have a fine setup. I've always thought that Parasound amps/Harman brand speakers make for a very good system.
I use a Parasound P7 pre-amp & HCA 2205 power amp to drive my JBL Performance Series speakers, which are also quite large (8" mid-bass drivers). And the sound is super.
post #689 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DHD View Post

You indeed have a fine setup. I've always thought that Parasound amps/Harman brand speakers make for a very good system.
I use a Parasound P7 pre-amp & HCA 2205 power amp to drive my JBL Performance Series speakers, which are also quite large (8" mid-bass drivers). And the sound is super.

Yes - it does sound great and I wonder why I continue to seek out BETTER sound.

I have the 1500A driving the Preludes, a 1000A driving a pair of Kappa 600 floorstanders, a 2125 driving 2 Prelude center channel speakers and a 275 driving a pair of Alpha 25ES surround speakers. Then there are the built-in sub amps for the Preludes. If I can find one, I may pick up another 1500A to drive the 2 center channel speakers to match tone with the towers and I sometimes think they need a little more ummpfh anyway. And for movies and stuff, 90% comes out of those speakers....
post #690 of 1905
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

Yes - it does sound great and I wonder why I continue to seek out BETTER sound.

One can always go to better, like using Mark Levinson amps, but the cost difference between a Parasound JC 1 ($3000) and a ML #53 ($25,000) IS HUGE (both mono amps).
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