**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 6

This may seem like a strange question, but it's a critical usability issue for me.

The current setup in my bedroom is a DVD and DirecTV into a Sharp Aquos LCD, then the audio outs from the Sharp into my old Pioneer stereo receiver. Vienna Haydn speakers and a sub. The Sharp acts as the source switch and also controls the variable, with it's audio setting at Variable. The Pioneer is also on its last legs, with the power supply starting to make popping sounds. Hence the need to upgrade.

I would like to reverse the signal flow when I upgrade, using the 665 as the switch, changing all of the signals to HDMI. Way fewer wires.

Here's the complication.

I like to watch TV after my wife is asleep using headphones. From reading the manual, it seems that simply plugging headphones into the Headphone jack mutes the speakers. Thus, I would have to go plug them in after she's asleep, and then unplug them before I go to sleep. Hardly user friendly.

The TV does not have a Headphone jack. Currently, I have the headphones wired to the audio out from the TV, which is split and also feeds the Pioneer. To watch in silence, I simply mute the receiver and control the headphone volume via the TV.

From reading the Yamaha 665 manual, it's unclear if muting the receiver will mute the sound being sent via HDMI to the TV. If not, then I'm in pig heaven - leave the headphones connected to the TV audio out. If it does, then I can't figure out how to leave the headphones connected to the system, and be able to remotely turn the speaker sound on and off and leave the headphone sound on at all times.

Of course, I could leave the architecture as it is now - TV as the front end and switch, using the digital audio out from the TV going to the digital audio in on the 665. But this seems inelegant.

(The headphones are bluetooth wireless, but that's irrelevant to this discussion.)

Anyone solved this problem?

I am having a hard time locating some information on the benefits of the 765 and its discrete amplification circuitry. Is this worth the $100 upgrade from the 665? Can someone explain this difference and how it affects the sound quality?

Thanks

Regarding the multi-zone:

Does anyone know if the ipod or HD radio addon will output through the multizone speakers. I have seen where most receivers in this price range only output analog signals along with "internal" FM or AM.

Thanks

Mark

Generally speaking, most modern receivers will not translate digital inputs to analog outputs because there's no way to pass along the DRM (digital rights protection). This is true even when the content is not actually protected. It's not a function of the price range or even a cost issue for the manufacturer.

Probably because no one knows. There's no information out there, that I could find, on what chips Yamaha may be using to reduce parts.

A lot of DIYs out there, were building amps using a chip amplifier, so I would not assume discrete is better.

Does this mean that you could not ouput XM or ipod music to zone 2?

Thanks

in the manual, it says that you can select xm, sirius and ipod dock as a source for zone 2, as well as any analog source.

It's not about passing along DRM. The zone 2 outputs are just speaker outputs, the same as the main zone. It's about cost.

The expense of dealing with digital signals for zones is not insubstantial based on my thoughts about it.

Only one processing path is allowed for digital, for one thing. That pretty much restricts zone audio to either the same digital audio selected in the main zone, or to two channel PCM. That two channel PCM would be unprocessed two channel PCM direct from source, so you would get no bass management or room correction. For two channel PCM, you would have to add a DA to converter to each zone, and I am not sure how useful it would be anyway.

A better solution would be to route the currently selected digital output to a digital out jack. That would require buying another receiver for the zone, but a budget model would likely suffice.

I've never really cared about a zone 2 situation before since I would probably do just what was suggested; get another receiver. However, we just purchased a new home with a covered patio that has a set of speakers in the ceiling. I would hate to leave a receiver outside so the zone 2 solution has merit. Obviously, only a two channel solution is needed, but I initially wondered if there was more selection than just an FM source.

From what I am reading here and downloading the manuals for the 665 and other receivers is that I can receive sat signals along with the tuner. I am a little unclear if I can get an HD radio source or if I can output the sound from my sat receiver to the outside. That would allow me to hear sound outside as I can see my 60 inch plasma through the window.

I appreciate the responses, and feel free to throw out more solutions or ideas.

Thanks

So I have only seen a few responses from people who have actually purchased the RX-V665 and I am very close to buying one myself, can those of you that have one please comment? I was looking at this unit vs the Onkyo TX-SR606 or the Onkyo H7-S7100 system but I have read some horrible reviews regarding the Onkyo 606's video upconversion.

I am by no means an audiophile but I do want a good receiver and I am really looking at this price level.

If I do go with the 665 any advice on a speaker system for the budget minded?

Thanks to all.

So I have only seen a few responses from people who have actually purchased the RX-V665 and I am very close to buying one myself, can those of you that have one please comment? I was looking at this unit vs the Onkyo TX-SR606 or the Onkyo H7-S7100 system but I have read some horrible reviews regarding the Onkyo 606's video upconversion.

I am by no means an audiophile but I do want a good receiver and I am really looking at this price level.

If I do go with the 665 any advice on a speaker system for the budget minded?

Thanks to all.

Onkyo has the new 607 which replaces the 606. The problems with the 606 that some have reported may of been fixed, to new to say. The funny thing is that THIS year as the new units come out the older ones are going up in price !! The new units so far this year are a disappointment and are a down grade in many ways !! They just maybe saving the best for last ..

I just tested this and yes the 665 allows you to set the DTS-MA bitstream as 7.1 channel PLIIx but only on the HDMI 4 input.

Can you tell me if you like this receiver? I am actually considering the 765. Just wanted to hear some opinions. Thanks.

Sounds odd, I don't see why the HDMI 4 input is special. Which DTS-HD MA 5.1 track were you testing with and what is your BD player? If it's a PS3 then you can't bitstream DTS-HD MA, so you won't be able to do the test that was requested.

After much research here and talking to RickD (AVS member) I decided to purchase this reciever. I primarily want to use this as a Pre/Pro. It has all the features I need and wanted at a very good price. I have been using a old school Technics Dolby Digital/DTS processor for my Blu Ray audio so I am expecting this to be quite a step up. I have been watching closely for a affordable HDMI 1.3 processor...unfortunately most of the processors are very expensive so this Yamaha will definately fit the bill. I won't see this till next week, so untill then I am going to keep on researching.

I can get this for $320, good deal? Worth pulling the trigger on?

Okie-Dokie, all up and running...

Thank you for all who contributed to my questions on setting up my HT system. I ended up running 16 gauge to the fronts and center, and 14 gauge to the rear and surround back (center-rear channel) and so far, it sounds good.One HDMI from Display (in-wall) to the AVR,and everytthing into that. The only bummer is I have three different remotes..Turn on/off TV with Samsung,2) turn off Time-Warner cable with TW remote,and 3) push the Master power OFF on the top right side, usually twice to shut off. As far as programming,I inputted the codes for each component,VCR,CD/DVD player,Time Warner cable and Samsung TV,so is it still normal to use three different remotes? No Biggie.

All I have to do is to read more on my RX-V665 Yamaha receiver as far as the surround modes go. Basically, I'm guessing I won't get all the good stuff as far as effect features from this AVR until I watch a BD movie?

On watching regular TV broadcasts, I am using the DOLBY DIGITAL setting. From there I can use the 7 channel,or 2 channel Stereo setting, or the Straight Enhancer. There are other buttons on the remote like the PURE DIRECT,which when I press the SURROUND DECODER, it displays"NOT AVAILABLE".

In order to use the other features on this AVR, I'm guessing I can get more effects out of this AVR by watching a 5.1 broadcast,or a Bluray, then and only then, will I see features like the Dolby TrueHD,DTS-HD Master Audio,Kick in. I have not checked out the Neural surround with the music feature.

Not a big deal, but is this normal? When I turn UP the volume on the remote,the sound level on the AVR displays that it going minus(-) down,not up. ie: -20.00db,instead of +20.00db


This receiver is running hotter than I thought, it is in it's own cabinet shelf, with the window open all the time. I will consider buying an "Antec Low Profile AV Component Cooler" for on top of the receiver to help cool it...if they really work.

PS. My speakers are from HSU Research Sound in Orange County, Ca. They are amazing!
Thanks again for all who chimed in to help me.

The remote should have some sort of Surr Decode button that will give your Dolby Pro Logic II for two channel sources such as TV. Look for that, and read the manual completely if you are new to Audio Video receivers.

Your volume is measured in. dB is a measurement of where you are at compared to a reference value. The reference value is usually somewhere around the max clipping volume without clipping*, so negative values are normal. You will get used to it.

Also note that different shows and movies and music have different average levels, so your volume level can vary quite a bit.


* Technically speaking we don't know exactly what 0 dB represents; my best guess is that 0 dB represents max unclipping pre amp input to the power amp, or around 1v peak to peak. dB is calculated as 10 * log ( A / B) where B is the reference. In this case, A would represent the current volume, and B some reference volume. When A is equal to B, the value is zero, or A is the same as the reference. Sometimes dB uses a factor of 20 rather than 10, but that's not important here.

I was finally able to hear the 665 at Ultimate. I thought it sounded great. Whether or not they use chip amps, it achieved reasonable volumes in the Ultimate Electronics listening room.

I was not jazzed about it's display and stripped down look, but the amp section seemed fine. I heard the NIN demo off Blu-ray, a track I know really well, and it sounded like it should.

The RX-V565 fared POORLY. I don't know what to say. I had the volume at -15 dB and it barely put out enough sound. Either there was something wrong with the 565 or it's hookup, or people should avoid it. Connection was digital, so that's not a problem. An Ultimate sales person said he set them both up, and that the 565 was just weak. I hope it's not as bad as that demo would indicate. Having to turn up a Yamaha AVR with a Dolby Digital source off a Blu-ray disc to almost 0 dB to get some sound out of it seems crazy!

I have been reading the manual and I must be missing the section that explains how to edit the passthrough/upconversion option. How do you set the 665 to allow passthrough only without upconverting?

from what you describe there just HAD to be some setup problem or malfunction. there is no way the distinction is that large.

That's what I told Ultimate Electronics. They insisted it was correct, and there were no remotes available for me to play with to look at settings.

I'm interested to hear about the video scaling capabilities of the 665. From what I read about the 663 they were really poorly implemented. Were they improved in the 665? I know they went from 480p scaling to 1080p scaling but are they worth even turning on?

My TV does ok at scaling so this isn't too much of an issue but my TV takes a long time when switching between 480/720/1080 channels and I'm hoping the receiver will be faster and *might* do it better? I know the Pioneers and Denons do it pretty well but I prefer the Yamaha sound.

the slow channel changes will not be fixed by a receiver and will have nothing to do with the video processing in the receiver. it's a matter of your TV re-syncing to the new resolution. if it really bothers you, set your cable box to a fixed 1080i output for all channels, that's really the only true solution as you won't have any resolution changes.

The 663 does not scale anything, only converts from analog to digital. You should not be using any scaling in an entry or even mid-level AVR if you can avoid it. Your monitor scales everything already. If your monitor has enough inputs, you should be passing analog inputs in the AVR to the monitor as analog, and passing digital inputs to the monitor as digital. This is the only way you can get quality monitor calibration for the different inputs.

I've noticed on this thread and others that this unit does not have assignable inputs. Would someone please define this for me and point out the shortcomings? Thanks.

where do you get this price? would you mind to give out the place?

thanks

I hate to get off the subject, but I need to ask a question about the front-panel indication for the audio encoding contained in blue-ray discs. I have my Pioneer Model BDP-51FD connected to one of the HDMI inputs of the Yamaha 665 and I am playing a blue-ray disc that contains a Dolby True HD audio track. I did set the Pioneer to output the HDMI audio as "auto", but the Yamaha 665 does not show the Dolby True HD indication. Is there a setting on the Yamaha 665 that I don't know about? Any help would be greatly appreciated.