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**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 52

post #1531 of 1896
Just picked up the receiver. Do you recommend the Polk Monitor 60 or 70 speakers?
post #1532 of 1896
I am using preamp out to drive external amps, but from what I have read the amps in this unit are more like 50 watts rms 20-20k driving all/multiple channels. I have also read the 70's can be power hungry. They may not be the best fit depending on how you listen.
post #1533 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by evec_sf View Post

Just picked up the receiver. Do you recommend the Polk Monitor 60 or 70 speakers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by graniterich View Post

I am using preamp out to drive external amps, but from what I have read the amps in this unit are more like 50 watts rms 20-20k driving all/multiple channels. I have also read the 70's can be power hungry. They may not be the best fit depending on how you listen.

At least with the 665, one has the option of adding power at a cost far less than new speakers. I'd advise to get the best speaker that your budget can handle and worry about power later.
post #1534 of 1896
we have RX-V665 receiver hooked up via a rocketfish RF ssvc6 speaker selector which is hooked up to speakers throughout the house. These were here when we bought the house so do not know too much about them. We had the receiver working really well and then it starts cutting out. It is playing very inconsistently, sometimes reception is fine and then the channel is no longer available. This is very puzzling.
post #1535 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMR1108 View Post

we have RX-V665 receiver hooked up via a rocketfish RF ssvc6 speaker selector which is hooked up to speakers throughout the house. These were here when we bought the house so do not know too much about them. We had the receiver working really well and then it starts cutting out. It is playing very inconsistently, sometimes reception is fine and then the channel is no longer available. This is very puzzling.

If the speaker switch has selectable "impedance protection", make absolutely certain this is engaged. If it doesn't have protection or "matching", get rid of it.
The available manual for that switch model is pretty vague. Connecting to that many speakers without protection will certainly cook the amp or at least cause a protection mode (audio cuts out).
post #1536 of 1896
Yes, it does have the protection impedence and it's been on the entire time.
post #1537 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMR1108 View Post

Yes, it does have the protection impedence and it's been on the entire time.

Remove the switch and connect the 665 direct to your main room speakers. Does it still have issues?
post #1538 of 1896
I noticed when I have good reception the sound is great, but when t looses reception, even momentarily, it seems to skip. No fuzz or hum, just nothing. Remotely locating the antennae to a better area resolved that issue.
post #1539 of 1896
are you suggesting we try switching the entire house directly to the receiver?
post #1540 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMR1108 View Post

are you suggesting we try switching the entire house directly to the receiver?

Forget the rest of the house. Remove the switch and connect the main room speakers direct to the 665. Does it still have issues?

You could provide some more information too. Do you use a surround system in the main room or what? What exactly are you using the 665 FOR?
post #1541 of 1896
or just one room?
post #1542 of 1896
This one receiver is just for the in ceiling speakers throughout the house. We have a sony for the home theater on completely different speakers. We just moved in and are installing this equipment. The speakers in the ceiling have been in the house for 10 years. new we're wondering if there are issues with them. But I'm leaning to something with the receiver or the selector because at times it's perfect and then we lose it.
post #1543 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMR1108 View Post

This one receiver is just for the in ceiling speakers throughout the house. We have a sony for the home theater on completely different speakers. We just moved in and are installing this equipment. The speakers in the ceiling have been in the house for 10 years. new we're wondering if there are issues with them. But I'm leaning to something with the receiver or the selector because at times it's perfect and then we lose it.

Seems like an odd use for a surround receiver, but OK.

Like I said, remove the switch completely, connect one room at a time to the v665 and see how that goes. If one room plays nice, try another. Connect just 1 room at a time and see if you can find a problem with any of the rooms. If everything works OK without the switch, one room at a time, then the switch is the problem. These are BestBuy brand switches, not the best hardware in spite of the inflated price.
post #1544 of 1896
can it be the polarity of the speakers?
post #1545 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMR1108 View Post

can it be the polarity of the speakers?

One thing at a time. Do the 1-room test and see what happens. Apparently you need to run it for a while to see if it acts up.

Polarity is an issue, but not here - it won't cause these type problems. Shorted wires will, but you wouldn't expect that speaker to be working well with a short.
post #1546 of 1896
ok thanks we'll give that a try, it will take a while, (we're going to have lunch) i'll let you know. Thank you very much.
post #1547 of 1896
quick update --- we had pulled the receiver out of the entertainment center and then had lunch. we kept it on and it never acted up. We believe it overheated in the entertainment center because we had another shelf pretty close to it with the selector on. Mystery solved -- it's been great all day. Thanks
post #1548 of 1896
I am trying to have my Yamaha v765 passthru audio to my Logitech z2300 2.1 setup.

Currently this is my setup:
Audigy 4 => Yamaha v765 => 5.1 setup
Onboard Sound => Logitech z2300 2.1 setup(sounds bad w/ onboard)

So is there a way to have my yamaha v765 pass the audio signal back to the z2300(both speakers and sub) when the yamaha is not in use? I only use one or the other and never both at the same time.

On my yamaha i see a 2speaker audio out, but i do not see a plug for my 2.5mm plug for my z2300?

Thanks!
post #1549 of 1896
To simplify, would anyone know how to get an audio passthru from my v765 to my 2.1 speakers?
post #1550 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezkils View Post

I am trying to have my Yamaha v765 passthru audio to my Logitech z2300 2.1 setup.

Currently this is my setup:
Audigy 4 => Yamaha v765 => 5.1 setup
Onboard Sound => Logitech z2300 2.1 setup(sounds bad w/ onboard)

So is there a way to have my yamaha v765 pass the audio signal back to the z2300(both speakers and sub) when the yamaha is not in use? I only use one or the other and never both at the same time.

On my yamaha i see a 2speaker audio out, but i do not see a plug for my 2.5mm plug for my z2300?

Can't you just uses a stereo 3.5mm jack splitter? How do you have the audigy connected to the 765?
post #1551 of 1896
The Audigy 4 is connected to the v765 by MultiChannel.

So the 3.5MM will have a 2.1 Audio Passthru?
post #1552 of 1896
Hi guys,

I received my Yamaha RX-V665 yesterday and got it set up so I thought I'd post some initial impressions as I compare it to the UMC-1
and also my Onkyo TXSR-876 when used as a preamp-processor.

To wit; my system includes:
Epson 1080UB
HTPC>ATI 4600 series>Xonar HD audio
Panasonic DMP-BD35 Blu-ray player
Dish Network VIP 211k HD receiver
JBL Professional actively bi-amped speakers, LSR6325P-1
Velodyne F1800RII 18" Subwoofer :-)


The Yamaha arrived from Amazon double boxed and the Yamaha box was one of the thickest I've ever seen, good stuff.

Initial setup was quick and easy, on-screen setup menu was intuitive and I didn't need to reference the manual at all.
I just did the manual speaker setup for now and haven't run the YPAO room correction yet.

The receiver was pre-set to pass-thru the HDMI video signal unaltered.
This appears to work perfectly, in fact my HTPC (ATI 4600 series)
doesn't "see" the receiver at all, but passes straight through to my
Epson 1080UB projector (shows EPSON PJ in display listing), nice!

For HTPC video adjustments I find that it works better to adjust the
ATI "video" sliders instead of adjusting at the display.
I'm using 4:4:4 full RGB
1920x1080 @ 59hz
and adjust the ATI "video" sliders via TMT3 and the AVS-HD test patterns

The Epson is set to Theater Black 1 and expanded color range

I watched some Blu-ray from harddrive (I Am Legend and i,Robot) and to my eyes this provided some of the best video quality I've ever seen through my HTPC, colors/contrast/sharpness/smooth motion even at 59hz,
in a word beautiful. When set to pass-thru the Yamaha doesn't even overlay the volume OSD so it appears to be a true pass-thru and it shows in the resulting video quality.

So far I've tried the HTPC and the Dish Network HD receiver. Switching is fast, say less than 3 seconds, and the audio has locked on every time with no drop-outs.

Audio test tones work well, I raised master volume to 0db and manually set all channels to 75db with a RS analog meter. I adjusted the subwoofers gain
control to approximate the same amount of trim the other channels needed to attain 75db.

I don't listen at theater reference level (0db) out of respect for my hearing.
I listened to the previously mentioned Blu-rays at -30db and the results in my small (23'x11.5') theater room were most impressive.
Dialogue clear and intelligible
highs clear but never harsh or fatiguing, perhaps slightly rolled off
bass REALLY strong, deep and well defined @ 80hz x-over
integration between speakers and sub sounded really, really good

At the -30db master volume setting audio peaks during the movies measured as expected at about 75-80db and the loudest bass at 85db.
This allowed me to enjoy power and detail of the lossless soundtracks for 3 or 4 hours without any listening fatigue whatsoever, and without using any dynamic range compression.

In short, when used as a preamp-processor I can't tell that this receiver is giving up much (if any) performance compared to the other, higher priced units referenced above.
In fact, I think it sounds better than the Onkyo which I've spent a lot of time with.

The Yamaha does run pretty warm on an open metal-mesh rack in my probably 80 degree room, about the same as the UMC-1 but not as hot as the Onkyo, so I may add some additional cooling.

It appears to only draw about 50 watts when used as a preamp-processor, compared to the Onkyo at 150+ watts.

In summary, my initial impression of the Yamaha is very positive and it looks and sounds like a keeper, especially when considering the low price.

P.S. The Harmony 890 remote control has a good set of codes for controlling the Yamaha, with discrete on/off, discrete inputs, etc.

Thanks so much for all of the input in this thread.
post #1553 of 1896
How is the composite video -> hdmi conversion delay with this receiver?
post #1554 of 1896
I have a Yamaha RX-V630 (bear with me). My family room has the usual 5.1 speaker setup, while the adjacent kitchen has two speakers mounted in the ceiling. We use these when watching TV while making dinner, etc. The kitchen speakers are connected as the "B" speakers of the RX-V630. Click the little "B" toggle on the front of the receiver, kitchen speakers come to life. Nice.

Now ..... I am finally going HD, which means new receiver. RX-V665 (or RX-V667) is the natural choice. But what I am concerned about is the lack of an A/B switch on the front panel.

I downloaded the user manual from Yamaha.com, but I can't figure out whether there is a simple way to "add" two (front) speakers without a bunch of fiddling. I see the "zone 2" thing but it sounds complicated, and does not seem like the same thing anyway. The "b" switch was great, because my wife could just click it, and voila, family room TV sounds great in the kitchen.

Can this be done on the RX-V665?
post #1555 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by aine View Post

I have a Yamaha RX-V630 (bear with me). My family room has the usual 5.1 speaker setup, while the adjacent kitchen has two speakers mounted in the ceiling. We use these when watching TV while making dinner, etc. The kitchen speakers are connected as the "B" speakers of the RX-V630. Click the little "B" toggle on the front of the receiver, kitchen speakers come to life. Nice.

Now ..... I am finally going HD, which means new receiver. RX-V665 (or RX-V667)...


Lateral thought:
Keep the RX-V630 and just retask it for dedicated 2 channel kitchen use...?
post #1556 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by gameplaya15143 View Post

How is the composite video -> hdmi conversion delay with this receiver?

What do you mean by delay? I havent noticed any.

One point to note is that it this line of AVR has problems converting "primitive" composite video. I liked the idea of using one cable (HDMI) from AVR to tv with ADC, so that I could use the V-AUX jacks in the front of the AVR, but the SNES, and other children's video games will not convert. I have to connect the video cable to the TV and switch inputs, and then connect the audio cables to the AVR (separating the yellow and red/white cables). These types of games aren't used much so it's ok, but if they were, I would be a little pissed since I don't believe there is mention of "some composite video not able to be converted" in the manual. One time I forgot to change the TV input back to HDMI-1 and my wife had no idea why she had no picture when trying to watch TV...
post #1557 of 1896
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

SNES, and other children's video games will not convert

That pretty much answers my question. Thank you. Looks like I can cross this receiver off my list...
post #1558 of 1896
Yeah, sucky...although not on "go or no-go" list, I was a little let down to find this out. But mine is a 565, and I noticed the 665 cross converts (565 doesn't) so I am not 100% that the 665 falls into the same category.
post #1559 of 1896
Has anyone got this working with a Kameleon URC-8206?
post #1560 of 1896
Im thinking about getting this receiver,does it have a manual eq or just different presets,also can you select separate crossover settings or are you stuck with one setting for fronts,rears ect.? thanks for any help
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