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**Offical** Yamaha RX-V665 AV Receiver thread - Page 62

post #1831 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

so you have to do a hard reset for it to work again for another 1-2 weeks ??

Probably. My experience with the PS3 has not been pleasant. If the HDCP handshake doesn't have issues, then the console crashes at random times and corrupts some of my save games....just the way it has been for me. Others have had better luck.

Hopefully Sony will release some kind of software update to fix the issue? I dunno.

On a side note, I am not sure I believe this but, I have heard that using a different HDMI cable may help. However, you shouldn't be using anything other than hi-speed from monoprice or some other cheap online vendor of cables.
post #1832 of 1926
It's strange to hear of such problems with the PS3. Personally I do not own one, so cannot give a qualified opinion. However do we have several Sony BRP's and DVD players, and reading the Sony BRP forums here on AVS there are many who revere the PS3 as having the best Blu-ray playback. I guess in a way I'm a bit relieved to hear that it is not without its problems.
post #1833 of 1926
I have a PS3 for a couple years now and once in a blue moon I will get "invalid input" or whatever, but I definitely don't have to hard reset it.
post #1834 of 1926
So I went back into my RX-V663 settings and turned the EQ back on and set it to "Natural". Then I went in and found different levels for the center speaker's different frequencies. I raised them all up a little bit and made sure all of the frequencies had the same level (for now, I am sure I can tweak this later) and tested Sherlock Holmes BluRay. I ended up finding it easier to hear voices from the center channel through all of the conversation parts of the movie. So far so good. Only problem now is the center is starting to over power the left/right in the action scenes. I am going to do some more tweaking later. Might even raise the volume of the rears (Love hearing surrounds playing door/rain/sound of a dropped metal object/etc during a movie or game).
post #1835 of 1926
^^^
All of which is what YPAO is for.
post #1836 of 1926
PsiPro: If you run YPAO, and then go to manual mode to EQ it yourself, you UNDO what YPAO did in the first place, (like you never ran it at all).
Try this:
  • Set sub gain (level) to about 11 o'clock position (about 1/3)
  • Set LFE to SUB ONLY (SWFR)... not sub + mains .
  • Run YPAO in FLAT mode
  • Afterward, adjust your XO if required (I raise mine since I have flat panel mains similar to satellite speakers)
  • When it is done, raise the Center Channel trim volume.
Verify that you are satislfied with the sound. If not, some "other" options are:
Setting the "Dynamic Range Control" or whatever it is called. Your receiver will raise the volume of lower sounds, and lower the really loud ones, so that the overall "volume range" is lessened...(check the manual for this option & proper application)

***If you still find it 'unbalanced' where the voices are too low, you can lower your mains trim as well.... but you defeating the purpose in home theater experience by doing this, since the actions scenes are MEANT to be loud...so you should be cranking the volume knob to where the voices are good, and enjoy the punch of the loud scenes when they occur.
post #1837 of 1926
I ran my YPAO in Front mode because I have big tower speakers for my front left/right channels and smaller satellites for my center and surrounds. Should I have still run in Flat mode instead?

It sounds pretty good as-is, although I sometimes wish the surrounds were a bit louder. I need to re-run YPAO anyways because we changed some furniture (including the couch that I originally put the YPAO mic on).
post #1838 of 1926
Always worth a try. My opinion is that trying to make sats sound like towers is not a good idea, but it's all personal preference with the final sound. I don't use my surrounds for music anyway, so I use FLAT.
post #1839 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterZ0 View Post

I ran my YPAO in Front mode because I have big tower speakers for my front left/right channels and smaller satellites for my center and surrounds. Should I have still run in Flat mode instead?

It sounds pretty good as-is, although I sometimes wish the surrounds were a bit louder. I need to re-run YPAO anyways because we changed some furniture (including the couch that I originally put the YPAO mic on).

Depends not so much on the size of the fronts, but on their quality. If your goal is accurate sound, (true to the original), then "flat" is the best approach.

"Front" can yield excellent results too, especially where your center/surrounds are a poor voice match for the fronts. Try it both ways and listen to each for a week or two.

Keep in mind that a 7-band PEQ can only do just so much, and some of the differences you might hear between front and flat may be partly due to the limitations of the EQ. I've tried them all and always wind up back at flat. My speakers are pretty much flat to begin with, so the difference is small.
post #1840 of 1926
So it's been quite some time since I've posted in here, and after reading a few things about the Star Wars audio dropouts (bitstream or PCM???), setups, etc, it made me scratch my head and wonder if I did indeed have my system set up the correct way and I just wanted to double check with you all and I assumed this was the best thread to ask, so here goes:

I (obviously) have the RX-V665

I'm only running it in 2.0... a Front L and front R

Connected to the receiver is a JVC XVBP1 Bluray Player via HDMI (Output selected: MultiChanPCM)

Am I correct in saying that, because of my setup, the BLURAY player is bitsreaming to the receiver? Whenever I watch a movie and select, through the audio options on the remote, either LPCM (when available on the disc, example: Blackhawk Down) or 5.1 (or 7.1 or whatever) DTS HD-MA, the receiver displays "PCM."

Just want to make sure that this is the (or a) correct method of setup for the receiver/bluray. Is it the most efficient? Should I have selected StereoPCM as my bluray players output, since I'm only using a stereo setup? Or should I select Passthrough and let my receiver decode the information, which then displays "HD-MSTR" instead of "PCM."?

Just wondering if I'm doing it right or now?
post #1841 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJBeanPole View Post

So it's been quite some time since I've posted in here, and after reading a few things about the Star Wars audio dropouts (bitstream or PCM???), setups, etc, it made me scratch my head and wonder if I did indeed have my system set up the correct way and I just wanted to double check with you all and I assumed this was the best thread to ask, so here goes:

I (obviously) have the RX-V665

I'm only running it in 2.0... a Front L and front R

Connected to the receiver is a JVC XVBP1 Bluray Player via HDMI (Output selected: MultiChanPCM)

Am I correct in saying that, because of my setup, the BLURAY player is bitsreaming to the receiver? Whenever I watch a movie and select, through the audio options on the remote, either LPCM (when available on the disc, example: Blackhawk Down) or 5.1 (or 7.1 or whatever) DTS HD-MA, the receiver displays "PCM."

Just want to make sure that this is the (or a) correct method of setup for the receiver/bluray. Is it the most efficient? Should I have selected StereoPCM as my bluray players output, since I'm only using a stereo setup? Or should I select Passthrough and let my receiver decode the information, which then displays "HD-MSTR" instead of "PCM."?

Just wondering if I'm doing it right or now?

LPCM is not the same as "bitstreaming". Bitstreaming sends the raw un-decoded audio straight from the disc. LPCM is decoded audio. Whether you have the downmix to stereo done on your player or AVR is up to you, use whichever sounds the best.
post #1842 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

LPCM is not the same as "bitstreaming". Bitstreaming sends the raw un-decoded audio straight from the disc. LPCM is decoded audio. Whether you have the downmix to stereo done on your player or AVR is up to you, use whichever sounds the best.

Thanks for your input grimes... I figured you'd be the one to respond

So if my receiver is saying "PCM" on the front, then I am having the bluray player downmixing to stereo and then sending to the receiver... correct?

If I was letting the receiver decode this audio (bluray player set to passthrough), then it would display "HD-MSTR," and the receiver would be doing the downmixing and sending to stereo?

I just want to make sure that the way I have it now is correct, and that I'm not missing out on a "better" way to do it... does that make sense?
post #1843 of 1926
Is there anyway to increase the sound from the center channel in order to bring up voice volumes a bit while keeping things in Phantom mode?

I would think that in Phantom mode with no center the receiver is pushing everything to the front left and right anyway but is there anyway to make sure it pushes the center with a bit more power?
post #1844 of 1926
Hey everybody, I did a search of the site and of this thread and I didn't see an answer to my question, so I wanted to post it. If I should be in the gaming thread, please let me know.

Anyway, I have this receiver and I have my cable box, 360, PS3, and a DVD player all connected using HDMI cables (1.3a I think). Anyway, I've not had any major issues. The one concern I had at one point was that I'd have the volume for the cable box around -30, games typically around -34, but movies on Netflix or blu ray at -20 to -15. I've read that this is normal, so I haven't thought too much about it.

Recently, I downloaded and played the Battlefield 3 beta on both the 360 and the PS3. I was getting a decent surround sound from both systems, but the on the 360 it just seemed to sound a bit louder. I checked the audio settings on both games, and it was the same. I did a quick search and saw that the PS3 master volume can be increased, but that's not recommended due to the fact that it can create issues with distortion. I also saw that someone mentioned checking the volume trim on each input. Hoping that that was the issue, I checked last night and they were all set to 0.0.

My issue isn't that the 360 version was louder...if that's all there was to it then I could just turn the volume way up. It's more about the fact that the 360 version had more "impact" or "punch" with all the various sounds at the same volume setting without being all around too loud.

Here are my questions:
1. If the PS3's master volume is at it's "normal" setting, should I boost the volume trim on that specific input, or does that create the same potential for distortion issues?
2. Could it just be the fact that the game was a beta and not the finished version?
3. Could it be that the 360's volume is louder than the PS3 and that I need to check that?

Thanks in advance for your replies.
post #1845 of 1926
Well, since I didn't get a response from my previous post, I've tried a few things and have tried to look up some more information, but I'm still not completely sure I have it down. Just in case anyone is still following this thread, I have a new question that relates to using the PS3 for both video games and blu-rays:

Since blu-rays, games, and Netflix all sound slightly quieter on the PS3 than with any other sources, would it be better to turn up the internal volume of the PS3 (while watching a movie), or would it be better to slightly boost the volume trim on that specific channel on the receiver itself? The DRC is turned off on the PS3, but that should only affect blu-rays and DVDs. I'm not sure about the setting on the reciever, but that's my next step.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
post #1846 of 1926
I've read about this problem concerning the PS3. I think it should be ok to adjust the volume on the PS3 if needed.
post #1847 of 1926
Is there a preferred way of dealing with it? By that I mean, is it better to use the PS3's volume setting or the volume trim on that specific HDMI input?

Also, I was going through some of the settings and while watching TV it seemed that the Adaptive DRC sounded better when set to "auto" instead of off. Any thoughts?
post #1848 of 1926
If the PS3 has an internal volume, then it would generally be better to turn it up there unless it causes distortion. Using the RX-V665 per-input volume trim is going to be generally less optimal since it will also amplify noise.

Note that for DVD and Blu-Ray, however, the PS3 ought to be passing a pure digital stream from the disc to the RX-V665 (assuming you're using HDMI, TOSLINK or coax). If this is the case, then the PS3 should have no control over volume levels in the first place.
post #1849 of 1926
With the PS3, you have to be watching a DVD or blu-ray. Then you can go into the "Volume Control" option and change it. Does anyone know if this just changes the volume for when you're watching a DVD/blu-ray, or does it apply to the system as a whole (including Netflix and games)?
post #1850 of 1926
I think it only applies to BD/DVD watching. For Netflix and gaming, volume will have to be controlled through your receiver.
post #1851 of 1926
Thanks. Maybe I'll keep the PS3's volume at the "normal" setting then and just adjust the specific input volume trim to see how that affects everything.
post #1852 of 1926
Hi!

I've a Yamaha RX-V665 and now I bought a Xtreamer Prodigy 3D media player. When I connect the player direct to TV it works ok (3D image) but when I connect it to receiver the image on TV is 2D. I can't find on receiver's menu and manual nothing about 3D configuration, so I imagine it doesn't need any.

Can someone help me?

Thanks!

Rivelino
post #1853 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by rivelino View Post

Hi!

I've a Yamaha RX-V665 and now I bought a Xtreamer Prodigy 3D media player. When I connect the player direct to TV it works ok (3D image) but when I connect it to receiver the image on TV is 2D. I can't find on receiver's menu and manual nothing about 3D configuration, so I imagine it doesn't need any.

Can someone help me?

Thanks!

Rivelino

The 665 is HDMI-1.3 which does not support most 3D formats. You have to bypass the AVR.
post #1854 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

The 665 is HDMI-1.3 which does not support most 3D formats. You have to bypass the AVR.

Thanks for answer. When I saw specifications before buy it I saw V667 and I bought V665. Now I have to sell this. Bad for me!!

Rivelino
post #1855 of 1926
I forgot how to do this but how do I use the receive and speakers when I'm watching TV? I tried all the settings but I can't seem to get it work ( AMP, THROUGH, AMP+TV )
post #1856 of 1926
Quote:
Originally Posted by matryx View Post

I forgot how to do this but how do I use the receive and speakers when I'm watching TV? I tried all the settings but I can't seem to
  • get it work ( AMP, THROUGH, AMP+TV )

  • set to AMP
  • connect cable box to amp (HDMI 1)
  • Select hdmi 1 on amp,
  • connect output HDMI-1 to TV.
  • Set TV 'input' to HDMI-1
post #1857 of 1926
I forgot to mention I'm using OTA for TV. Should I be connecting the RG6 cable to the Yamaha reciever?
post #1858 of 1926
No - the AVR has no way of tuning a RF signal.
post #1859 of 1926
Might work if you connect it to the TV and use the TV OUT Audio to the AVR
post #1860 of 1926
I just hooked up my Outlaw sub to my 665 and for a bit I had my front L,R + sub running fine. Then I did something and can't get the sub to play now. I ran through the setup with the mic and the sub made noise and the system recognized it. Still, when I go to play a cd, only the L and R icons show on the display.

What the heck did I do? It must be something silly. I've cycled through the sound programs to make sure those weren't the cause. I'm also sure I'm not in Pure mode.

Edit: Figured it out... I had LFE/Bass set to just subwoofer and my FR/FL set to small. Changed those to large and set the LFE/Bass to both. Xover at 80hz and all sounds peachy.
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