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The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS1 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 118

post #3511 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post


Warm: D65
RCUT 80/7E/-2
GCUT 80/80/+0
BCUT 80/81/+1
RDRV F8/F7/-1
GDRV F3/D4/-31
BDRV 9E/9E/+0

thanks can't wait to get these in when i get off. in lamens terms what does the adjustments do? sorry i'm a noob and have no clue what IRE means.
post #3512 of 7895
Hi all, first post here. Just picked up a 46S1 form HH Gregg here in Cincinnati for $899 with the free BD-60 BR player and I am quite happy so far. I too have the green push and will need to tweak later on.

I have two questions.

1. Does anyone know how to access the S Video input to allow me to use an old laptop? I attempted to connect but couldn't pull up the S Vid as an input option on the settings.

2. Anyone more savvy than me have anything to ease my pain at looking at the latest review of our set by PC World? I am King of buyers remorse and with Black Friday next week, I just want to make sure I get the best my budget can provide from a plasma. I say this because I got burned on my last set (Sony KDSRX-60 for $4200.00 and 2 optical blocks and a class action suite later) and I really want the set to last. I cannot post the link becuase its my 1st post, but it's only a google away.

Thanks in advance! Big thanks to all the folks who have helped me get this far with their insight and postings, great community!
post #3513 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyd718 View Post

thanks can't wait to get these in when i get off. in lamens terms what does the adjustments do? sorry i'm a noob and have no clue what IRE means.

The first few times I calibrated my set I was using the 30 IRE (30%) and 80 windowed patterns to calibrate the grayscale. I had almost perfect results from 30 to 100 but anything below 30 was a little too red, so this time I used the 20 and 70 percent patterns and it alleviated the issue I was having with the lower end of the grasyscale.
post #3514 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyd718 View Post

thanks can't wait to get these in when i get off. in lamens terms what does the adjustments do? sorry i'm a noob and have no clue what IRE means.

it's the number of times you press the volume button...

-2 means you press the volume down twice

+4 means you press the volume up four times
post #3515 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anubys View Post

it's the number of times you press the volume button...

-2 means you press the volume down twice

+4 means you press the volume up four times

i know how to change the sm menu. i was referring to the reason for the changes themselves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

The first few times I calibrated my set I was using the 30 IRE (30%) and 80 windowed patterns to calibrate the grayscale. I had almost perfect results from 30 to 100 but anything below 30 was a little too red, so this time I used the 20 and 70 percent patterns and it alleviated the issue I was having with the lower end of the grasyscale.

thanks again.
post #3516 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by zappaisalive View Post

Hi all, first post here. Just picked up a 46S1 form HH Gregg here in Cincinnati for $899 with the free BD-60 BR player and I am quite happy so far. I too have the green push and will need to tweak later on.

I have two questions.

1. Does anyone know how to access the S Video input to allow me to use an old laptop? I attempted to connect but couldn't pull up the S Vid as an input option on the settings.

2. Anyone more savvy than me have anything to ease my pain at looking at the latest review of our set by PC World? I am King of buyers remorse and with Black Friday next week, I just want to make sure I get the best my budget can provide from a plasma. I say this because I got burned on my last set (Sony KDSRX-60 for $4200.00 and 2 optical blocks and a class action suite later) and I really want the set to last. I cannot post the link becuase its my 1st post, but it's only a google away.

Thanks in advance! Big thanks to all the folks who have helped me get this far with their insight and postings, great community!

The newest review for a Panasonic Plasma that I see on pcworld.com is for a 42" X1 720p. Is there an S1 review somewhere that you are referring to?
post #3517 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruiz00tx View Post

Why wouldn't the HD channels be on? So the channels are just blank when you tune to them? Are those channels you subscribe to?

not sure. they are "Special Channels" also a lot of sports alternative stations. Also noticed they have the same channle like "TBS HD" in two locations example (9986 and 126) Those are not the channels just and example.

Hope to play around more with it this weekend. Going to try and dive into the SM with the offsets first... Can't wait.. then Some Channel Surfing!
post #3518 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by zappaisalive View Post

I have two questions.

1. Does anyone know how to access the S Video input to allow me to use an old laptop? I attempted to connect but couldn't pull up the S Vid as an input option on the settings.

S Video input is the same as composite, input 7 or 8.
post #3519 of 7895
droid6 what picture settings are you using... cutom, vivid, normal, cinema... and what temp?

Your offset settings look really good. Im about to pop in a blu ray in a bit just want to make sure i have the right picture settings. thanks.
post #3520 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

The previous ones are still listed in the PDF at the bottom of the post.

Thanks. I guess I should figure out how to use the scroll bar so I could read the entire post.
post #3521 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

The first few times I calibrated my set I was using the 30 IRE (30%) and 80 windowed patterns to calibrate the grayscale. I had almost perfect results from 30 to 100 but anything below 30 was a little too red, so this time I used the 20 and 70 percent patterns and it alleviated the issue I was having with the lower end of the grasyscale.

Hey,

I remember you saying that you had the RCut +3 because you had a problem with red levels over 30 being too low. So you said you increased the 0-30 range, to compensate for that issue.

Now you no longer do that...but what about that issue?

Can you provide the CalMan RGB report, 0-100 with your new settings?

Also...one of my main concerns is all that green in the warm setting, makes skin tones look really natural too me. once its removed skin looks too red. Anyone agree?
post #3522 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atticustrd View Post

droid6 what picture settings are you using... cutom, vivid, normal, cinema... and what temp?

Your offset settings look really good. Im about to pop in a blu ray in a bit just want to make sure i have the right picture settings. thanks.

I use cinema with a warm temp.
post #3523 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

I use cinema with a warm temp.

does that mean you used the cinema setting in the offset menu?
post #3524 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwolf4k View Post

Hey,

I remember you saying that you had the RCut +3 because you had a problem with red levels over 30 being too low. So you said you increased the 0-30 range, to compensate for that issue.

Now you no longer do that...but what about that issue?

Can you provide the CalMan RGB report, 0-100 with your new settings?

The reason RCUT was at +3 is because that is what was proper when calibrating at 30 IRE. I'll post a new report sometime this weekend.
post #3525 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atticustrd View Post

does that mean you used the cinema setting in the offset menu?

You can input the offsets in any mode in the SM but you have to input the offsets with the proper color temp selected.
post #3526 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

The reason RCUT was at +3 is because that is what was proper when calibrating at 30 IRE. I'll post a new report sometime this weekend.

Oh ok. Sounds good. Your new warm offsets are very close to just simply turning down green, with tiny tweaks to red and blue. Seems to make sense to me!
post #3527 of 7895
Quick question: No matter how well the color calibration is done, nothing can fix the incorrect color decoding, right? Or can a color actually be adjusted close to the 709 standard?

Wish I had THX mode.... lol
post #3528 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwolf4k View Post

Quick question: No matter how well the color calibration is done, nothing can fix the incorrect color decoding, right? Or can a color actually be adjusted close to the 709 standard?

Wish I had THX mode.... lol

Unfortunately the best you can do is color and tint on these sets but that being said when you dial everything else in the color error isn't that bad.
post #3529 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by fhamel View Post

The newest review for a Panasonic Plasma that I see on pcworld.com is for a 42" X1 720p. Is there an S1 review somewhere that you are referring to?

thisonehttp://www.pcworld.com/reviews/product/307535/review/viera_tcp46s1.html
post #3530 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

The first few times I calibrated my set I was using the 30 IRE (30%) and 80 windowed patterns to calibrate the grayscale. I had almost perfect results from 30 to 100 but anything below 30 was a little too red, so this time I used the 20 and 70 percent patterns and it alleviated the issue I was having with the lower end of the grasyscale.

Droid6,

It appears that you have never really finished your grayscale calibration.

Using either the 30/80 points or the 20/70 points are fine since the purpose for using them is simply to get in the ballpark. The only way to complete the grayscale calibration is to adjust the cuts and drvs using the full 11 point range from 0% to 100% stimulus making small changes until a near flat curve is realized. Actually, depending on the capability of the meter, it probably would be more like a 9 point range from 20% to 100% -- with the 30% to 70% (or 80%) range being most important.

I'm not saying that it will make any significant change in your results but you may want to give it a go.

Larry
post #3531 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Droid6 View Post

Unfortunately the best you can do is color and tint on these sets but that being said when you dial everything else in the color error isn't that bad.

I haven't even done all the extra calibration (read that it voided your warranty) and I am fairly satisfied with the colors *knock on wood*. Maybe a LITTLE too red. And I notice some light yellowing on people's chins, etc. when it should be shadowing. But both are minor. And again I'm going to *knock on wood* as I'm very superstitious and I've already had a number of problems with this TV, outside of the colors.
post #3532 of 7895
Issues?

Larry....do you own an S1 or an X1 or both? You seem very knowledgeable.
post #3533 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-A-G-L-E-S View Post

Issues?

Larry....do you own an S1 or an X1 or both? You seem very knowledgeable.

I own two X1s, a 42 and a 50. I've calibrated a few S1s and as far as I can tell the only difference is in the screen resolution. BTW, calibration technique is the same for any TV.

Larry
post #3534 of 7895
Not to cause trouble, but I'm curious...

I emailed panasonic when I first got the s1 and before running break-in slides. I'm not too worried, and nonetheless I run the slides, but they finally emailed me back the following:

"Thank you for your inquiry.
We do not recommend using any pictures or CD's to break the TV in.
Thank you for contacting Panasonic.
Thank You,
Panasonic Consumer Support"

I obviously don't know the technical level of the support person, but I did specify the color slide details to them when inquiring. I also just responded asking for an explanation...

Does anyone know what could be bad about running color slides, or why they would say this? The only thing I wondered (and this is why I emailed them) is if you run the slides would you actually not be evenly burning in the phosphors? I realize the screen may be made up of red blue and green, hence the slides, which mix to make every color, but does anyone know on a technical level if these would be the only "states" of the colors needed to evenly break in the set. For instance, why wouldn't you use every degree of the color instead of just a few?

I'm running them nonetheless and have no issue (as many others don't), but I'm just curious if anyone knows...
post #3535 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

I own two X1s, a 42 and a 50. I've calibrated a few S1s and as far as I can tell the only difference is in the screen resolution. BTW, calibration technique is the same for any TV.

Larry

How far away can you notice it personally on the 50's?
I briefly owned an X1 and liked it.
post #3536 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post

Not to cause trouble, but I'm curious...

I emailed panasonic when I first got the s1 and before running break-in slides. I'm not too worried, and nonetheless I run the slides, but they finally emailed me back the following:

"Thank you for your inquiry.
We do not recommend using any pictures or CD's to break the TV in.
Thank you for contacting Panasonic.
Thank You,
Panasonic Consumer Support"

I obviously don't know the technical level of the support person, but I did specify the color slide details to them when inquiring. I also just responded asking for an explanation...

Does anyone know what could be bad about running color slides, or why they would say this? The only thing I wondered (and this is why I emailed them) is if you run the slides would you actually not be evenly burning in the phosphors? I realize the screen may be made up of red blue and green, hence the slides, which mix to make every color, but does anyone know on a technical level if these would be the only "states" of the colors needed to evenly break in the set. For instance, why wouldn't you use every degree of the color instead of just a few?

I'm running them nonetheless and have no issue (as many others don't), but I'm just curious if anyone knows...

I would guess they are just saying that cause they have not done any lab testing on it. If it was bad then I would have expected a "We recommended that YOU DO NOT Run".. Recommending something like that opens up a can of worms for them. So instead of coming out and say Yes we recommend you to do that or No we recommend that you do not run them then they are placing themselves in the middle.

Also it would be a HUGE Marketing Weapon for LCD makers to point out that "Plasma Manufactures recommend you waste 120 hours before you can even watch the tv... LCD Watch it tonight!"

Just My Two Cents..
post #3537 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherokee_Outlaw View Post


Also it would be a HUGE Marketing Weapon for LCD makers to point out that "Plasma Manufactures recommend you waste 120 hours before you can even watch the tv... LCD Watch it tonight!"

This is brilliant. If you're not already, you should be in marketing.
post #3538 of 7895
I guess I will throw my offsets into the mix. Hopefully they can help someone.

This was a prof. calibration. He didn't post the SM values or offsets in the pdf just some graphs fom Calman, so I will just post his offsets in this post.

He adjusted the Warm temp only.

Here were my initial SM values just for reference (in Warm):

RCut 80
GCut 80
BCut 80
RDrv D8
GDrv F3
BDrv 98

Calibrated offsets:
Warm
RCut -1
GCut 0
BCut -3
RDrv -3
GDrv -18
BDrv 0

His UM settings after the calibration:
Mode Cinema
Contrast 65
Brightness 62
Color 34
Tint +6
Sharpness 0
Temp Warm

I have no idea what the graphs mean so if you ask I will be no help.

A side note, I'm using a higher contrast value right now, like in the 80's.

For some other options, here are my Spears and Munsil calibrated UM settings using Game and Custom modes but the same Warm offsets:

Mode Game
Contrast 85
Brightness 61
Color 45
Tint -2
Sharpness 0
Temp Warm
(this has more pop like my 60u, of course you can always adjust Contrast down to around 82 or so to your liking if it's too much)

Mode Custom
Contrast 85
Bright 61
Color 45
Tint -1
Sharp 0
Temp Warm

 

S1 Calibration Report.pdf 175.42578125k . file
post #3539 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by barb1978 View Post

I haven't even done all the extra calibration (read that it voided your warranty) and I am fairly satisfied with the colors *knock on wood*. Maybe a LITTLE too red. And I notice some light yellowing on people's chins, etc. when it should be shadowing. But both are minor. And again I'm going to *knock on wood* as I'm very superstitious and I've already had a number of problems with this TV, outside of the colors.


Can anyone confirm this about it voiding your warranty?
post #3540 of 7895
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Droid6,

It appears that you have never really finished your grayscale calibration.

Using either the 30/80 points or the 20/70 points are fine since the purpose for using them is simply to get in the ballpark. The only way to complete the grayscale calibration is to adjust the cuts and drvs using the full 11 point range from 0% to 100% stimulus making small changes until a near flat curve is realized. Actually, depending on the capability of the meter, it probably would be more like a 9 point range from 20% to 100% -- with the 30% to 70% (or 80%) range being most important.

I'm not saying that it will make any significant change in your results but you may want to give it a go.

Larry

After I finished the calibration I did reading of the entire grayscale and they were all within the bulls-eye.
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