The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS1 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 14

As long as it's not difficult to get into the service menu, I have no problem going in there, ISF or not. Just write EVERYTHING down before doing anything. Ideally though, an ISF calibration would be best if you want to improve the colour. So I take it there is a CMS in the service menu area? Only G, V and Z series mention 3D CMS. Do the other have a 2D? Is that enough to tweak colours better?

Hi, i just bought a TC-P50S1 a week ago, and im also getting the sound cutting out that the 2 other guys were talking about. Mine cuts out about every 2-3 mins and only on SD stations. Playing HD channels or a dvd its perfectly fine.

Has anyone figured out a solution to it yet? If there's something wrong with the tv ill just bring it back to best buy and get a different one.

Thanks

I wish I had an answer for those with the sound cutting out issue, but I don't. My TC-P42S1 does not have such an issue and one person in this thread already returned one and got a 2nd with the same issue.

Has anyone contacted Panasonic about it?

anyone know when the TC-P54S1 will come in? im looking to get em from JR.com. any other good stores with better prices?

The TC-P54S1 will come in May per the Panasonic Web site

Hey new to forum, my question is how are firmware updates on panny plasmas, and if S/G/V are same hardware why couldnt i just update an S series plasma to G series firmware, sorry if I'm not making any sense, still learning about hdtv's, but as far as computer hardward goes, firmware updates are pretty common.

For those that put the test images on the SD card for the S1 break in - is there any way to constantly loop the slideshow? I just got the 46" set from Sears and we're digging it.

Change the slideshow setting to repeat.

We just got an S1 last night and either the panel is defective or somehow, after not even 5 hours of viewing on "normal" we managed to get burn in, or what I think is burn in.


The best way to describe it - it looks like flashlighting/backlight bleeding from an LCD, but two little circles in a row about 6" apart from one another towards the center/right of the screen:

http://www.spoilertag.com/burn.jpg

Sorry for the poor quality, it's from an iphone. The two circles (they are about 6" apart) are extremely faint, but you get the idea from that pic. During the screen wipe mode, you can see it clearly as soon as the white bar passes over that particular part of the screen. It's definitely visible during blue, white, and green static backgrounds.

Currently, I'm running a looped slideshow of the break in images and it just kills me to see this. The rest of the panel is perfect, but these circles are annoying because I notice them. Is it even possible to get burn in after not even 5-6 hours of watching the thing? Will this go away or should I return the panel?

i don't see any white circles, i see a faint pink oval/circle and i also see many horizontal lines (this might be from the camera not the tv i don't know) either way it doesn't look from that pic like burn in, it looks like something is wrong with the panel itself. if you purchased from a local store i am sure you can easily exchange it for a new one. i wouldn't even mess with trying to get it fixed. just take it back to were you purchased it and tell them something is wrong with the plasma and you would like to exchange it for another and it should be no problem. keep us posted and good luck!

What's weird is, it doesn't show up at all on black or dark pictures, just mostly bright white, green, or blue. We can't see it otherwise during gaming or full screen video, only during static color screens.

Still breaking in my 46S1 (about 40 hours into the break in disc), I did break down again and watch an episode of 24 and some of the USA soccer cup qualiying last night. I know I still have to adjust the picture but as it is set up now in Cinema, I do see a hint of green.

So I'm thinking more and more about going into the service menu once I'm done with the break in and Dnice has given the picture levels for the S1. However my question is, does this void the warranty with Panasonic?

once you go into the SM it voids the warranty so you should write down all the original settings before you change anything

that's the best piece of info i've read on this forum. i thought about going into the SM, and will instead wait 2 years(AMEX). Thanks a 1,000,000.

Yeah, so voids the warranty eh? So are you saying though, if you put the settings back to what they were all should be good? Or would Panny know you got in there no matter what. I don't want to void the warranty so I might not want to go in there unfortunately.

I would be interested to know that as well ....

If that were the case, wouldn't every person who's had a professional calibration voided their warranty? I don't know for sure, but I would think they (Panasonic) would have to prove something that you did caused the failure.

Worth looking into.

I've read the Panasonic warranty and there is no mention of the service menu.

Yeah, I just did too, nada. Still, I think I'm going to call them, but if they ask for my information I'll hang up! Ha, no seriously, this brings up a good point and will research this when I have time tonight.

if you go into the SM and mess things up then it voids the warranty, they don't have anything in their warranty covering the service menu so please tread with caution... Unless you can set the numbers back to the original settings i would let someone who knows what their doing handle the SM.

Can any of the forum members chime in on this please

My take on this is that let's say you get into the service menu and mess something up, then call up Panny and try to get them to repair it under warranty, they'll tell you to pound sand and pay up for a service call. Otherwise, you're ok. I have no idea if this is the case or not, but with the absence of specific language in warranty, it's a grey area and ymmv.

I've made some huge breakthroughs in calibration recently and thought I'd share the results. It turns out that Custom mode is THE mode to use. I had mistakenly thought I calibrated the set in Custom mode when in fact it was in Cinema mode the whole time. Things still aren't "perfect" but they are pretty damn good for user menu tweaks only. Here are my settings, which will likely stay final until D-NICE posts his SM tweaks.


Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: 75
Brightness: 65
Color: 42
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 25
Color temp: Normal
CATS/Video NR/MPEG NR: Off
Black level: Light

And now the goods! I was only able to get pics of Corpse Bride (Blu-ray) and some random HDTV show on HBO. I am NOT a digital camera expert so please forgive me, I tried my best .

Not too shabby Sanne, not too shabby at all! Thanks for posting. I tried to take pics with my camera, but they look like crap compared to everyone elses on this board.

Guess I shouldn't quite my day job eh?

I know I'm just looking for it, but I did notice alot of green in some of those pics, of course the film source is probably the reason, but couldn't help but notice! I'll try out these settings tonight.

You did mention you used the break in disc correct? (i'll have to reread)

My picture taking skills are really terrible. The green tint that appears to be there on the pictures is actually not there in real life.

Nice work. So what's your take on the colour situation? Is there at least 2D CMS in the S1 model plasma? Or did you simply calibrate with the regular settings menu?

The color accuracy in Custom mode is quite a bit better than it is in Cinema. Using AVIA still produces inaccurate results, it pushes the color saturation way too high which indicates that one of the color points is a little off of where it should be. I had to dial down the color by about 5 ticks from where AVIA told me to set it. I also had to switch from Warm to Normal.

They compared the G10 to the S1 in its THX color mode which several people have stated is far too dim for their liking.

I want to see a Custom mode to Custom mode comparison of the S1 and G10. I think both panels are identical in this mode.

if THX mode is too dim, than i say screw the G10. Custom mode is where its at. David K also mentions that the 800U has a better thx mode

So the S1 doesn't say it has a CMS..but the next higher in the line, the G10 does, and of course, so does the V10 and Z1. This would mean you could dial in the primaries, that is, if you knew what you were doing, hopefully using proper software, or, you had somebody do an ISF calibration for you.