The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS1 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 161

Originally Posted by redwolf4k

And I agree, $899 is what I paid, and thats really out of this world IMO. This isnt some Insignia, or RCA walmart tv. This tv leaves little to be desired at that price point. Again, if money is no object, obviously someone would want to get the V10, to Z series, but lets be serious, the V is nearly double the price for the same screen size.

Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper

Actually, after the firmware update that allowed the G10 and V10 to both hit an accurate color gamut in THX mode, I think the G10 offers some serious value. Having said that, the S1 does as well, and since the G10 doesn't come in a 58" size, I definitely wouldn't trade my 58" S1 for a 54" G10.

Originally Posted by MyPlasma

I have 65S1. I really want to try Droid6 setting but I can not find from this forum since so many pages here.

Please let me know the link...Thanks,

Originally Posted by Mike00

Interesting just got off the phone with Panasonic direct and now even the 65s1 is on backorder as is a lot of other plasma models.

Panasonic needs to pick up prodcution on these TVs.

Originally Posted by Nowucmenowudont

Where in the country do you live? They have them available locally where I live. (Indiana)

Originally Posted by wmuflyboy

nah im on the east coast, nothing high here. i hope its not a problem but from research on here it seems that they do buzz for some reason. maybe ill just call panasonic and have a repair guy come out. is this free if im within warranty???

Originally Posted by Hazefrog

Droid, Larry, mmoh00, et al,

I'm trying mmoh00's settings on my 58S1, and it definitely looks better than the factory settings. I have a question about "35FTL" though. This is a measure of the total brightness, right? If yes, 35FTL is pretty bright, no? Are these the settings you would use for a dim or dark room?

Would you recommend I try Droid6's 35FTL settings?

Thanks for your time.

Originally Posted by mmoh00

Yes, it's a brightness measure. My settings give me 35 ftL on my set. It's just about right for me for both day and night time. It also seems to be a level that a lot of professional calibrators shoot for. I think the optimum value depends a lot on your viewing distance. If you are watching your set really close like THX recommends (e.g. 54 inch TV from 6 or 7 feet), then most people probably want it lower than 30 ftL for dark room viewing. I watch from 10 to 12 ft away and I am fine with 35 ftL. Anything lower would be a bit too dark for daytime and I didn't want separate settings for day and night. A lot depends on your preference.

BTW, Droid's earlier "Warm" setting also gave me 35 ftL. I don't know about the new "Warm-35FTL" though.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

For my night time viewing in a nearly 'black' room I have always had my TVs adjusted for about 25 ftL. Yes, 35 ftL is quite bright.

Larry

Originally Posted by Mikeoz

Ok, so if I have this right (thanks to Larry's oh so helpful PM), droid's 35ftl settings shift the whole luminance curve down (or "brightness" for us non-experts)? Also, does anyone know how "bright" the non-35ftl warm setting is (no, his calibration post has the graphs/charts for the 35ftl setting, unless he posted it in another post)?

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

No, it shifts the high end up.

Originally Posted by Mikeoz

If it moves the high end of the luminance curve up, wouldn't that result in a higher peak luminance (for the 35ftl warm settings?), not a lower peak luminance?

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

Mike, see my edit.

Originally Posted by Mikeoz

Ok, well if nothing is "clipped," then it must shift the entire luminance curve down (the 35ftl setting compared to the non-35ftl setting), correct?

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

A professional calibrator will adjust the picture at the level you want not the level he likes!

Larry

Originally Posted by mmoh00

Of course Larry. And I didn't mean to suggest 35 ftL is their preference. I just happened to come across various cal reports and ~35 ftL seems pretty popular. I also found interesting that the big time pros at the 2009 HDTV Shootout had all the sets calibrated at 35 ftL (except for V10 which couldn't pump out that much) for the dim room they were in.

Again, I think a lot depends on the room setup and personal preference.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

Define "non-35 ftL." Is it 22 ftL, 40 ftL, or 55 ftL, etc?

The "entire" luminance curve will not shift! The 0% point will stay where it is assuming the Brightness control is not brought up so high as to move it above the minimum light level (MLL).

Originally Posted by Mikeoz

I was just referring to the "Warm" offsets droid provided. He has the 35ftl Warm offsets, and just a "Warm" offsets. The "Warm" I was saying was the non-35ftl. I was curious what ftl output these offsets resulted in.

Ok, so everything BUT the 0% point will shift down, IOW, so the curve merely gets "compressed" per say then? Like the difference between x^2 and 2x^2?

Larry, do you have a site/reference you would recommend reading that explains different fundamental concepts/terms so that some of us could more accurately describe what we're trying to convey, so there isn't a misunderstanding?

Originally Posted by Hazefrog

A quick and dirty Google search for "TV ftl dark room viewing" comes up with references to 35 ftl and even somebody stating that even 40 ftl is good for dark rooms.

Comments?

Don't know much of anything about this stuff, just exploring the topic.
Regardless, I am thoroughly enjoying the changes these settings have made to my new TV. Thanks for sharing folks.

Originally Posted by Steve L

Forgot where I read it, but I believe the Society of Motion Picture & Television Engineers (SMPTE) recommends 25 foot lamberts for "cinema" mode and 30 ftl for "normal" mode. THX recommends 30 ftl for "normal" as well, IIRC.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

I'm just trying to drive home the point that there is nothing magical about 35 ftL.

Larry

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

There is no way to know what the "non-35 ftL" value is without measuring it.

What you are trying to say is:
Light output is a function of stimulus^(1/gamma)

Originally Posted by Mikeoz

Thanks, I realize that.. You said droid posted his results, but I guess they were just for the 35ftl Warm calibration.


Ok, so that was a "yes" answer then to the question? Your responses are helpful, but you didn't answer the original question..? Your responses often times have partial answers and just seem cryptic.

I'll take a look at those links..