The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS1 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 263

Just got around to doing a Spyder3 calibration using HCFR @2200 hours on my Panny TC-P58S1. I was out of the country for the first 20 months of ownership (bought it in Japan), and did not have access to my colorimeter.

Custom, Warm, Tint 0, Black Level "Light", Contrast setting of "80", Brightness "74", Color "36", Tint "0"

Contrast set at 34.7 ftL for a IRE100 windown using the colorimeter (set midway between 30 - 40ftL; which was a contrast in the video menu of "80"), and brightness setting equal to 0.65% of that ftL reading for a IRE10 window, about 0.224 ftL, is what I got at brightness of "74".

"Color" in the video menu was initially set at full red window giving "Y" value equal to 21% of a full white 100IRE, which ended up being Color of "36" in the video menu.

R-Cut 7F
G-Cut 80
B-Cut 7D

R-Drv D8
G-Drv E0
B-Drv 93

IRE-0 ftL: 0.004

Sorry I don't have the stock values (hence offsets), as that piece of paper I originally logged them on is now gone after the international move.

Grey scale is spot-on with deltaE values between 1-2 from 20IRE to 90IRE at D6500K.

I used "windowed" greyscale patterns: 80IRE to set the color-Drv levels first, and 20IRE to set the color-Cut levels in the HCFR "live" mode, to minimize delta and track at 6500K, with some back-n-forth to really nail it.

I must say the picture is good now vs. just using other people's offset numbers from the forum, like I did 20 months ago. Goes to show that each panel is a bit different, and it really takes a colorimeter to get each unique TV to it's best potential.

I've usually set the final color level using the "Steaming Rat" method (CLICK HERE)...it targets realistic skin tones to set color levels...usually color (for my taste) runs about 32-34 (vice the colorimeter calculated value of 36)

I'll try to post the HCFR file from my laptop, or post any further tweaks. I have an i1, too, which I might use to verify the Spyder3 settings, which I'll do next week. [EDIT: See post below, #7863]

Calibration disk used: HD709 (avsforum disk) through 1080p HDMI Playstation3 with optimized settings in the video menu.

Cheers,
Doc

Curt Palme: Calibration for Dummies

wow I've just got the same thing on my 65s1...and Im out of warranty. Does anyone know if this can be fixed?

Did an i1 calibration on my Panny TC-P58S1, which I think gives a better picture than the Spyder3 calibration I did a week ago. Better picture, better fleshtones, better CIE tracking and a better D65 greyscale.

Cinema, Warm
Contrast 80
Brightness 74
Color 36
Tint 0
Black Level "Light"

Service Menu (Cinema Warm):
R-Cut 82
G-Cut 80
B-Cut 7E
R-Drv E7
G-Drv DA
B-Drv C1

Flat greyscale from 20IRE to 100IRE ~D6500

Fleshtones look amazing, great black details, contrast, color and depth on HD sources (Cox Cable and Blu-Ray).

Rule here: stick with the i1 colorimeter, and ditch the Spyder3. I have both, so will not be using the Spyder3 anymore... maybe time to eBay it.

There may be some more work to do to try and alter tint/gamma, but it is the law of diminishing returns. I'll spend that time calibrating my Epson 8500 with a true CMS!

Cheers,
Doc Rings

I can't get HDCP to work with this TV (65S1).

Going direct from my PC (with either an AMD 4550 or NVidia GT440) to the TV with any of 2-3 different HDMI cables and the NVidia driver tells me the display doesn't support HDCP.

Going into my Denon AVR790 with HDMI then HDMI to the TV, the driver _does_ tell me I have HDCP. Unfortunately, it doesn't work - I think the screen blacks out between the Denon and the TV. I can watch e.g. live TV for 2 seconds, then I get a black screen.

I updated the firmware on the TV praying it would help, but to no avail.

Does anyone have HDCP working on this TV from a PC? I don't even think it works from a non-PC - when I try to view certain content (e.g. 1080p) from my DirecTV HD box, I also get a black screen.

It's frustrating to say the least.

To follow up on my own post, it was definitely a busted 65S1. HDCP did not work properly from multiple sources (including cable box). I got a new GT30 and it works perfectly, very happy with it.

How would I even go about getting something like that fixed (HDCP not working on HDMI input), anyone know?

You could look at the SD hex values if you haven't tweaked them yet, they should be the same as the default HD ones

Is anyone using the Boxee Box with the TC-P42S1? I have the latest f/w installed (1.2.0.20310). I recently reset to factory and reloaded the latest via the USB port (had an occasional issue with shutting down properly via the remote). In any case I want to better understand the Display Settings and how to properly choose/set them up.

Here are the options in question:

• Resolution (options - NTSC, 480p, 1080P 24Hz and 1080P: 1080P selected)
• Match Screen Refresh (enable/disabled: enabled)
• HDMI Outputt (RGB Low, RGB High, YUV422 and YUV444: YUV444)
• HDMI Pixel Depth (24bit, 30bit and 36bit: 36bit/I think this is redundant for the TC-P42S1 as I thought it's 24bit)
• Enable EDID (enable/disabled: enabled)

Would appreciate any help/feedback on this.

Here's what I've been doing commonly with the Boxee Box:

• Streaming Vudu (SD/HD/HDX)
• YouTube/TED and other Videos
• Accessing my NAS for Videos (rarely photos or music)

Hi everybody!

First, I want to say I'm new on this forum and I'm not retarded, I'm only french canadian! lol

I don't know if I should explain my problem on this thread or start another one.

Last year, I bought the TC-P54S1 as DEMO from a big shop, Best Buy. I also take 4 years warranty...

I also have a TH-42PZ85U. This one have maybe 3 years and work like a charm. 2-3 burned pixels but no other problem.


Now the problem with my 54S1... The pixels twinkles and the picture is grainy... it's not pretty

I no longer have the "wow effect" with my TV

But I dont have this problem with my PZ85... I still love my old Panny.

My first problem was to buy a demo probably...

But I have a performance warranty so... Should I return the TV ???

How can I look how many hours the TV has already?

Is it a normal problem or this type of Panny have all these problems???

thanks everyone!

just calibrated my tv after 4600+ hours for grins, thanks to docrings and everyone that made that real easy. i'll post my settings if anyone cares, but i just used what the guide said. thanks to all those that made that possible. new picture looks good, was very seriously thinking about relegating the 42s1 to the bedroom because i was unhappy with the picture quality but the calibration looks good so far so maybe i will try and ride it out.

side note, anyone know how to kill these things so geeksquad will replace it?

Quick question.. Should All-drv be the same in SD and HD by default? I'm noticing a difference of -10 in my HD setting.. I've used offsets before but im pretty sure none of them said to alter all-drv.

Also I'm trying to apply the firmware update but cannot find the pdf for instructions that's supposed to come with it. I dropped the bin and the sqsh file onto an sd card via my android phone and also tried dropping just the zip and popping it into the tv and it just says No Photos. I realize this thread is mostly dead/dying so I appreciate any help.

Has anyone found a fix for this? I feel that my TV does the same thing. Using an HDMI cable to connect my PC to the TV, going through a Denon 591 receiver.

OMG i had no idea we watch that much tv... 4778hrs and 46mins .still a STUNNING STUNNING image.
(65" s1)

Hey Fellas,
First of all if this has already been addressed - forgive the redundancy. But all searches I did came up negative.

Second, this post is for anyone (like me) who owns an S1 series TV and also has an Oppo BDP-93 Blu Ray player hooked up directly to the TV via HDMI from the Oppo's HDMI 1 primary output.

Not long after I bought my BDP-93 - I became aware of a commonly known issue with Panasonic Plasma TV's in the S1 series.

The issue is that if you boot up the TV and the player and the TV has to switch to the input that your HDMI 1 output from the 93 is hooked to you get a red screen on the TV that can only be fixed by switching inputs on the TV and going back to the correct input. (this was only if you were going directly to your TV from the Oppo primary output 1 and not through a preamp or receiver)

This was apparently due to the fact that the Panasonics were booting up into "PC" mode rather than straight video mode. However, I've discovered that it may be a different reason. Read on!!

There was no fix on the Oppo or Panasonic side (or one that could be found) so those of us who had the issue just had to live with it.

Anyway, I think I have found a solution....

I was re-calibrating my TV using Disney's new WOW (World of Wonder) calibration disc. In the section that deals with overscanning. I learned that if the Panasonic TV's are set to "Size 1" in the "HD Size" setting of the "Advanced Picture" section, the TV is overscanning by about 5%. This was helpful if you could see SMPTE coding bars at the top of your screen on some broadcast channels.

However, I learned that if you chose to overscan - the picture was no longer transferring the source at a 1:1 pixel rate - it was, in fact, scaling the picture! And dropping the quality. (significantly)

So if you switch the "HD Size" to number "2" size/setting it turns off the scaling and you get a true 1:1 pixel transfer... and best of all: You no longer get the red screen requiring an input switch!

Anyway, I don't know if someone has already figured this out - but in case no one has I thought I'd pass this tip along for anyone else that is/was dealing with this issue.

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks

k-hud and others;

I have no idea if my 65" S1 is set to HD1 or 2, but should overscan be set to off for all inputs?

"So if you switch the "HD Size" to number "2" size/setting it turns off the scaling and you get a true 1:1 pixel transfer... and best of all: You no longer get the red screen requiring an input switch! "

If you want the best resolution then set the "HD Size" to 2. Otherwise it is scaling the picture.

However, on some standard def channels you may see the thin line of SMPTE coding at the top - if that bothers you then you can switch back to size 1. If it's a standard def channel or programming it's not going to make much difference on the picture quality.

The setting can be input independent.

My couple year old 50s1 has a fan that just last night went from near silent to loud.
Do I need to order a replacement fan from Panny, or can I buy one second hand online?
Which fan am I looking for?
TIA!

Not quite an answer to your question, but maybe it's dirty and can be cleaned.

That is very possible, should I just remove the back panel screws and clean the fans?

Before taking the back off , try suctioning out all of the top vents. I do the every couple of months on my S1. There is some accumulation of dust that gets pulled out of the fans .

Two birds with one stone, I need a new vacuum cleaner and my current one doesn't have enough suction power to do the job.
I will go buy one today and see if it makes enough difference that I don't need to replace a fan.

I did set it to HD Size 2. Cant really say if I am seeing any difference.

However, I n the advanced sttings I also noticed a slecetion to adjust the black level, and I switched that. HOLY COW are the blacks BLACK now! I just wonder if making that change changes the settings of my set, as I had it ISF calibrated.

I just watched a movie via my Oppo and noticed that the image was bigger than the TV. I checked with my DirecTv HD DVR and its the same problem, the image is too big (The sides are being cut off).

I went to the advanced portion of the setup menu on the TV and I am unable to change the HD size, but I can change the H size. It is currently at H1 and if I change it to H2 it gets even bigger (more of the image is lost off the sides of the screen. When I scroll down th emenu it skips HD size and goes right from "Black Level" to "H Size".

Why am I not able to change the HD size? Someone please help....



EDIT

I figured it out 2 minutes after I posted; I had to select "format" in the middle of the remote. One of the kids mustve been pushing buttons because I used that to select the right picture mode/size and that corrected the larger image and put the right size on the screen and allowed me to select HD1 or HD2 for the size.


Edited by cp1966 - 8/20/12 at 11:44pm

You beat me to the punch.. I was going to say make sure your aspect is set to "full"

my 50s1 is just about two years old now with 4968 hours on it. my overall black levels look pretty grey - almost cheap lcd-like.

ive never screwed around with the service menu. are there some specific adjustments i can make in there to try improving my black level?

just ran into this.
cut the cord this week having an issue. OTA connected to TV via coax and optical out to my preamp. i get audio from preamp on the non HD channels but not the HD ones.. ??? is there a work around or am i SOL ?

You should get Dolby Digital 5.1 "bitstreamed" from off the air reception through the coax to the tv and then out to the preamp through the optical. Where your preamp would decode it. The previous poster was refering to HDMI to the tv, not OTA through coax.

hmm perhaps its my dac then....