So I got my replacement W6000 yesterday (first one had a broken auto-iris.. it would step all the way down to complete black regardless of a scene).
This one's autoiris seems to be working okay. But here's a few concerns I have with this unit in order of priority.
First off.. I did a rough greyscale (with DB/Iris off of course) with my eye-one and ColorHFCR. 80 and 30 IRE are very good and just about anything in between. Below 30 there's still a bit too much blue, but it's a 0 hr pj and I'll have to calibrate in 100 hrs, so I'm not too concerned there for purposes of evaluating whether to keep and mount this thing.
Settings are Gamma 2.2, Brilliant Color off, Econo Lamp, User1 w/Cinema and then calibrated color, brightness and contrast. Fully light controlled room (pitch black)
1a) Iris issues - When the iris steps down in dark scenes (usually a title card or fade to black) if there's a bit of white text on the screen, it looks a little red. You can also see the black kinda turn greenish at one point too (but that's with no picture data). When the scene brightens up, you don't see that anymore.
But these are the areas in the range with DB on that are the most noticeable. When the iris is working in the brighter scenes, the iris action is barely noticeable and there's certainly no color shift.
1b) Now in addition to this.. take for example the PS3, when you push the button to quit watching a blu-ray the screen is mostly black with a couple of horizontal white lines and some white text.. the options "Yes" and "No", pulse. Now whenever this screen is up, this problem occurs.. the text has a faint red tinge to it, but even more peculiar is the text ends up looking umm.. blob-y. However, if I hit the menu button, opening the iris up, that text then looks nice and sharp and the burst pulsing of the options looks as it's supposed to.
What's the deal here?
2) Sharpness - The first PJ (Sept 2011 mfc date, v1.02FW) I think was sharper. I could see massive moire on my AT screen with that PJ. A new screen was pretty much mandatory with that. However this replacement unit (July 2011 mfc date, v1.01FW) doesn't seem as sharp. Movies still look great (I think if I had them side by side, I wouldn't notice a difference watching a movie) but even the menu text doesn't seem (literally) razor sharp. Did I read somewhere the optics may have been changed in newer units. How much should I really care about this?
3) Light Output - So first lets talk about the actual image data vs the actual projected light. There's a bit of a line (for arguments sake, say 20pixels) on either side of the picture data. On my CIH screen, it's very easy to see (I haven't put my A-Lens in front of the unit yet) against the lightless areas of my screen. With black on the screen, I turn the brightness down so that the picture area matches this thin piece of light on either side of the image. Turns out, of course, this is the right brightness setting when you use plume or the AVSHD disc with the flashing bars).
Now on my original unit, when the iris stepped down, that area could get to a point where you could not see the lightbar brighter than the lightless areas on the screen. This is what I expected the iris would do. But of course with the iris broken there, it was outputting almost no light to the point where I could look into the lens (and had to) to see menu options (upside down and backwards) when this happened.
I never calibrated the first unit as it was defective, but on this one I took the contrast down to about 18ftL (with 100IRE window) in my calibration.
But still on this unit, the iris never steps down to a point where you can't see that light on a black scene (or 0 IRE). You can tell the iris is stepping down (subtly), but nothing substantial is happening with that light on the screen. 0 IRE is measuring about 0.1ftL
So call me a bit confused here. Is this right?
Is there no way to eliminate grey-blacks?
My existing PJ, Optoma HD70 is 720p, no iris and right now only putting out about 9ftL at 100IRE in eco mode. Black there is pretty much as black as you can get as there's no contrast between the picture area blacks and the unlit portion of the screen.
Is this the issue with a bright pj, is having to deal with bright blacks? I mean I get that if I mask the sides or I'm watching a 2.4:1 movie through the A-Lens the contrast is more or less gone (save for my velvet frame on the screen). But I also kind of expect the iris in a dark scene with a bit of text to be closer to the unlit screen black.
4) The Firmware Version - 1st one was 1.02, this one is 1.01. Anyone know the differences between them? The Auto Iris also seems much more quiet on this unit but then again the iris was not working properly on the first unit. This unit the changes are rarely noticable.
5) Picture grain - This may be a result of my AT screen texture exacerbating the new sharpness of the image but I am finding movies to appear much more grainy that I would expect. Of course, throw something like Toy Story 3 on and there's no grain... is it simply that these units with 10bit color vs my 8bit on the HD70 and the sharpness and better optics is just showing the source film grain that much more? I did try Live Free or Die Hard which is a Tier 0 rated picture and it certainly is much better than something like Kill Bill Vol 1 which is Tier 1. But is this characteristic of just a newer unit with all around better specifications? Changing the sharpness level in the unit doesn't seem to make much of a difference on the grain.
Anyhow I could see me keeping this but the 1st item is really bothering me.
Thanks for any help you can provide on any of my concerns.