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Benq w6000 - Page 70

post #2071 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by hingis_fan View Post

What about jacking up contrast? I know on most plasmas, I run contrast in the upper 90's usually.

I assume there are ill effects to doing that as well?

Yea, you can't go any higher than 50-55 or so without clipping bright areas. I think mine is set at 50. You need to use one of the calibration discs to determine this correctly.
post #2072 of 2421
i've had my W6000 since the middle of October and now have hit 1150 hours on the bulb. Tonight while watching stuff on netflix the bulb dimmed down a few notches. i know it has 2000 hour lifespan which isn't the best but i'm guessing i'll need a new bulb soon but how soon? anyone have some info on the last 800 hours of this bulb til it dies and what i should expect? love the projector but i wonder if another projector with higher bulb life would've suited my family better instead of replacing the bulb every four months at 200 a pop. i chose dlp for good reasons and have been extremely happy so far. how long will this bulb last and is the dimming effect normal?
post #2073 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

My filters arrived. It took 2 them days to get here. That's pretty fast seeing the distance. I will start my trials when the home is less crowded.

Still haven't tried on them filters?
post #2074 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by WormInfested View Post

i've had my W6000 since the middle of October and now have hit 1150 hours on the bulb. Tonight while watching stuff on netflix the bulb dimmed down a few notches. i know it has 2000 hour lifespan which isn't the best but i'm guessing i'll need a new bulb soon but how soon? anyone have some info on the last 800 hours of this bulb til it dies and what i should expect? love the projector but i wonder if another projector with higher bulb life would've suited my family better instead of replacing the bulb every four months at 200 a pop. i chose dlp for good reasons and have been extremely happy so far. how long will this bulb last and is the dimming effect normal?

No, it's not normal. I've had several projectors and none of them did this. The bulb just slowly ages and gets dimmer. Something isn't quite right. Either the bulb has a problem or it's something else like the iris closing down when it shouldn't. Did you try turning dynamic black off?
post #2075 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post

Still haven't tried on them filters?

I would have posted sooner if I had been more excited about the result. Here are my notes:

I used 2 filters so I could diminish light output in 3 steps: ND .1 .2 .3 (with both filters in front of the lens). Light transmission in order 79%, 63% and 50%.

I definitely saw a rise in contrast with the use of all filters. Blacks were also blacker but I had hoped for more. With the ND .3 at times it felt like I had upgraded the projector, there was less image noise and the contrast increase made it pleasant to just watch on. Dark scenes were also less distracting because the light gray was darker. The problem with using a strong filter is it tames the light too much in bright scenes. The great thing about this Benq is it has great colors and really pops in bright scene. Well all that was gone when I put the filter in front of the lens. Then I used the 2 other filters separately, the .1 was too weak to reduce blacks to an acceptable level and .2 was again too strong. I did also change brightness and contrast in the menus while using those filters but I couldn't find what I was looking for. Maybe with more time and working more methodically, recalibrating the gamma, white balance and the CCA you could achieve good results but I didn't feel like it.
You might be able to turn DB off with the ND .3 filter and set it to the level you prefer.

As far as I went, I think there are too many trade offs to using filters with the Benq.
post #2076 of 2421
I spent about 6 hours last night trying to get CCA to do what I wanted. I don't understand how it works, so its very frustrating. For example, I am looking at the color on HCFR and I know I need to move the x coordinate. So I adjust the x cooridinate, but can never get the actual color to move. If I adjust the "gain or luminance" control the color will change, but in unpredicatble ways. Like truning green to blue instantly, or turning yellow to green, etc. Each control in CCA goes from 0-2000 and it takes FOREVER to move through the range. I finally got frustrated, reset them all to default.

Grayscale is spot on. Gamma is good. Blacks and whites are great. All that remains is getting the colors the right "color".

I did use the handy Excel spreadsheet and adjusted each colors' Y to the correct setting using the Range and Saturation controls. So, while the colors are wrong, they are all the same brightness as white.
post #2077 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by legierk View Post

I spent about 6 hours last night trying to get CCA to do what I wanted. I don't understand how it works, so its very frustrating. For example, I am looking at the color on HCFR and I know I need to move the x coordinate. So I adjust the x cooridinate, but can never get the actual color to move. If I adjust the "gain or luminance" control the color will change, but in unpredicatble ways. Like truning green to blue instantly, or turning yellow to green, etc.

I don't know what's happening with your calibration but it worked on my machine and colors are natural.
Are you sure you're making the changes in the desired fields?
Are you making changes in big steps? Try making small changes and see what happens.
Maybe your starting points are not set correctly. Try remeasuring colors in the service menu with the initial fresh settings.
Are you doing continuous measurements in HCFR?
Do you apply the CCA table after you changed the xy coordinates?
Changes are usually not that big. The y for red at a 75% saturation should be 0.3298. If for example you measure it at 0.359 there is a 0.03 difference. That difference is already enough to make a noticeable difference in saturation.

I remember having the same problem in the beginning but that was because I was doing everything wrong. Otherwise try finding posts from bub in the W5000 thread. There is somewhere a step instruction on how to use the CCA. I'll try looking for it. Also it takes time to get it right. And those high numbers you have to input in the tables sure were a pain to do. That's why I rarely touch the CCA. Be careful for that reset picture setting :-)
post #2078 of 2421
Question for owners with a PS3 or 360:

For PS3 - do you get any "judder/jitter" on the XMB? I had an animated background and it sounded like the iris is working extra hard. Is that normal?

For 360 - with the new Live update, my W6000 is having a hard time showing video on the main screen. When launching a game, with the main screen being 1080 and the game at 720, I sometimes lose synch, get a black screen, and then the game comes on. Not sure if it's the HDMI cable, pj or 360. Wondering if anyone was experiencing this?
post #2079 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRich View Post

Question for owners with a PS3 or 360:

For PS3 - do you get any "judder/jitter" on the XMB? I had an animated background and it sounded like the iris is working extra hard. Is that normal?

For 360 - with the new Live update, my W6000 is having a hard time showing video on the main screen. When launching a game, with the main screen being 1080 and the game at 720, I sometimes lose synch, get a black screen, and then the game comes on. Not sure if it's the HDMI cable, pj or 360. Wondering if anyone was experiencing this?

I have noticed none of this. My xbox experience has been great, gaming has become so much better
post #2080 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by talon95 View Post

No, it's not normal. I've had several projectors and none of them did this. The bulb just slowly ages and gets dimmer. Something isn't quite right. Either the bulb has a problem or it's something else like the iris closing down when it shouldn't. Did you try turning dynamic black off?

i guess the bulb dimmed down then went back to normal brightness and did that a few more times til it stopped. i'll experiment with the dynamic black. is an aftermarket bulb decent or is it best to stick with benq's bulbs? and what place is it best to get one? pm me if vendors aren't allowed to be mentioned in posts.
post #2081 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by WormInfested View Post

i guess the bulb dimmed down then went back to normal brightness and did that a few more times til it stopped. i'll experiment with the dynamic black. is an aftermarket bulb decent or is it best to stick with benq's bulbs? and what place is it best to get one? pm me if vendors aren't allowed to be mentioned in posts.

Well sometimes you can get some slow flicker also. If it keeps doing it, might try changing the bulb from low/high, opposite of whatever you are using. Did it come back to normal brightness, or stay dim(er)??

I don't know what vendors other than OEM bulbs are best. I've seen mixed results. Some very happy with 3rd party bulbs, others not so much.
post #2082 of 2421
Coolme - is this the post from bub in the W5000 thread you were thinking of?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post15930110
post #2083 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by idaho_mark View Post

Coolme - is this the post from bub in the W5000 thread you were thinking of?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post15930110

Yes that's the one.
post #2084 of 2421
Wow. Excellent find on the 5000 thread. Will give it a try (again) on another day. Today, I'll have to settle for slightly off colors.
post #2085 of 2421
Electric Haggis,
I've been reading the W5000 thread. I noticed you were having a problem with adjusting the xy values in CCA but not seeing any results (in the HCFR software...or by eye for that matter). Did you ever figure out what was going on? Did you ever overcome this? I ask because I am having the same issue with my W6000. I move x and y all over the place (from 0 to 2000) and don't see any difference. What am I doing wrong?

Issue: I adjusted my luminance in CCA to those values posted by bub in the W5000 thread, just out of curiosity, while the pregame show was on. Didn't see any real changes until I went to a full white image on my HTPC (which is where my TV signal comes from). The picture all of the sudden goes really dim. If I go back to Media center (to watch TV, for example), the pic is fine...like nothing ever happened. I thought, maybe Dynamic Black (I think you guys say DB or iris, right?) was acting screwy, so I disabled it, but then the picture stayed dim. When I re-enable DB, the pic got bright again until I displayed a white background (a webpage, for example). How weird. Maybe it was the luminance value for White that I entered into CCA from bud's settings? I know entering values without measuring is silly, but hey, I can undo it. I noticed that if luminance is set to 0, then it deactivates it I suppose.

I would like to look into the iris settings you guys are using. I wish someone would just post a screenshot of their settings, as everyone uses different acronyms and appears to assume that we are all speaking the same language. I know you guys have like your favorite "min" and "max" settings. Anyone willing to post a pic of the menu where those settings are?

Thanks all. Good game too.
post #2086 of 2421
Just fired up the PJ for the first time since Sunday. Well, the problem with it going dim when I go to a white background page (on the HTPC) is gone. At least for now.

The PJ had been running all day on Sunday....maybe the iris was "tired"? Overheated? Hmmmm. Well, it's not acting up now, so I don't know. Will check it later this evening after it's been on for a few hours and see if it reoccurs.
post #2087 of 2421
I just upgraded from a BenQ PE8720 to a W6000 and I am very pleased. Hard to believe I paid $5000 about 5 yr ago for a 720p pj. I was also interested in the JVC RS45, Sony HW30, and JVC HD250. First, I wasn't in the mood to drop $3200. Second, reading about MotionFlow and other forms of frame interpolation made me cautious. I don't like that video or soap opera effect. I don't watch sports in the HT room and both DLP and plasma have never looked juddery to me. Finally, there is currently way too many problems with 3D. Ghosting, brightness loss, cabling, uncomfortable glasses, colour shift of the glasses……blah blah blah……it ain't ready for prime time. In the meantime, this $1400 BenQ W6000 is just the ticket.

The build quality of the W6000 is definitely a step down from the PE8720. That beast has got probably 10lbs on its little brother. I'll miss the motorized zoom and focus but it's a luxury I can live without. The W6000 manual lens shift feels cheap but gets the job done. I have the vertical lens shift fully down and if the optic are worse at such offsets, it's not bad at all, for such placement flexibility.

Focus isn't perfect across the screen. When left side is crisp, the right side is slightly soft. But corner to corner is pretty good. From my seating distance of 13ft, the focus difference is academic. With real material, this thing is sharp. Almost too sharp. I dropped sharpness to +2 and all clarity controls to zero. Just too much noise otherwise.

This PJ is bright. (Sounds like an echo here) I'm throwing it on a 120" Dalite Video Spectra 1.5 Gain in a windowless room. The fan is a bit loud and I can hear the DI. My 8720 has the same fan noise. It has never distracted me during a quiet movie.

I think I see RBE a tiny bit more than on the PE8720. Unless I'm darting my eyes side to side during the credits, it's not a deal breaker.

I'm not a videophile. I don't pixel peep and I don't pour over Xylon's high-rez comparisons. Using some of the recommended settings from the more knowledgeable members, this BenQ serves up an image that is very satisfying. It's not the best at any one thing, it just does a lot things well. My other BenQ has been reliable, and there has been very few reports of failures here. All this for $1400…..i'll be happy for a long time.

Check out some screenshots!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...935620&page=88
post #2088 of 2421
Another 6 hours yesterday and still can't get x or y to move. Oh yeah, they move, but not in the direction I need. Weird. Frustrating. Irritating. Most folks probably wouldn't be able to tell the colors are jacked up by just viewing content, so I guess I can live with it. But, I'd actually break down and pay someone to come show me how to get them to move. I mean, how do ISF calibrators know how to do it? Are they trained on every PJ? Do they have a manual? Where is that manual? Just venting.......did everyone else on the thread die?
post #2089 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by legierk View Post

Another 6 hours yesterday and still can't get x or y to move. Oh yeah, they move, but not in the direction I need. Weird. Frustrating. Irritating. Most folks probably wouldn't be able to tell the colors are jacked up by just viewing content, so I guess I can live with it. But, I'd actually break down and pay someone to come show me how to get them to move. I mean, how do ISF calibrators know how to do it? Are they trained on every PJ? Do they have a manual? Where is that manual? Just venting.......did everyone else on the thread die?

I still watch out for this thread.
If you're willing to trade a bit of brightness for better colors I think doing the calibration is worth it.
I don't mind to try to help you out. Did you follow the guide posted by bub? You say the x and y don't move. I'm thinking maybe you're measured values are not what they should be. I might be able to post my numbers as a starting point but I'm not sure this would help.
post #2090 of 2421
Your post was so considerate and encouraging that I decided to go try again since the laptop, colorometer and all is still hooked up in the theater.

Went to the SM to make the adjustments thinking that at least I'd see some changes. Set color to Warm. Measured RGB and W and entered those values in CCA.

Then went to Desired W and began adjusting. Got W pretty close. Then I went to R. Hmmm. Nobody ever said what to put in gain or luminance, so since W was at 1000 and grayed out, I figured I'd put about 210 in there since R is 21% as bright as W. Anyhow, I'm trying to get x=640, y=330. I finally got y=330, but x wouldn't go any higher than 510 even with the setting at 999, the highest it will go. So I went to the "Measured" R again and played with that thinking the "Desired" adjustment must be "out of it's range". Needless to say, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get any higher than about 510.

Gave up and went to G. Same story. 300 and 600. Should be pretty simple. Nope. This time I got x to about 300, but y wouldn't go any higher than 530. (I set the "gain or luminance" to 710 corresponding to 71% of 1000).

I can slide those little sliders all the from 0 to 999 and not get the numbers I'm looking for. It seems to get to a point and tops out.

I thought it may just be the RELATIONSHIP between x and y, not necessarily the exact numbers. When you adjust x for example, y will move also, usually in the same direction, either up or down.

So that's it for today. Like I said, the PQ is still fine. Green is the worst (out of spec) followed by yellow. I can get blue and cyan perfect but not using CCA. I did read most of the W5000 forum btw. Many different ways of tackling this.
post #2091 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by legierk View Post

Your post was so considerate and encouraging that I decided to go try again since the laptop, colorometer and all is still hooked up in the theater.

Went to the SM to make the adjustments thinking that at least I'd see some changes. Set color to Warm. Measured RGB and W and entered those values in CCA.

Then went to Desired W and began adjusting. Got W pretty close. Then I went to R. Hmmm. Nobody ever said what to put in gain or luminance, so since W was at 1000 and grayed out, I figured I'd put about 210 in there since R is 21% as bright as W. Anyhow, I'm trying to get x=640, y=330. I finally got y=330, but x wouldn't go any higher than 510 even with the setting at 999, the highest it will go. So I went to the "Measured" R again and played with that thinking the "Desired" adjustment must be "out of it's range". Needless to say, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get any higher than about 510.

Gave up and went to G. Same story. 300 and 600. Should be pretty simple. Nope. This time I got x to about 300, but y wouldn't go any higher than 530. (I set the "gain or luminance" to 710 corresponding to 71% of 1000).

I can slide those little sliders all the from 0 to 999 and not get the numbers I'm looking for. It seems to get to a point and tops out.

I thought it may just be the RELATIONSHIP between x and y, not necessarily the exact numbers. When you adjust x for example, y will move also, usually in the same direction, either up or down.

So that's it for today. Like I said, the PQ is still fine. Green is the worst (out of spec) followed by yellow. I can get blue and cyan perfect but not using CCA. I did read most of the W5000 forum btw. Many different ways of tackling this.

ok you have a problem with your luminance. Ideally White should be left at 1000. You luminance also affects the other coordinates which might explain why you are out of red. For green it's a different story as the projector most likely has a deficit in green and you can't do anything about it.
What you have to do now is get the luminance right. In HCFR it means you measure the luminance Y of a white pattern and note it. All the other colors will be related to that number. So if white is at 90cd/m3 red should be at 19 and this is the number you need to focus on. You either rise or lower the desired luminance until HCFR reports the right target number. Then you adjust x and y for red and it should be easier. xyY all affect each other and sometime you have to change x first to get Y right or the other way around. Try not to change the measured values fields as this disturbs the calibration too much. Don't be afraid to use number above 1000 in the desired fields, it goes as far as 2000 and that's no problem. Not all colors can be set at what they should be and that is the fault of the projector and you need to compromise.
You can also make color measurements of the gamut of presets you like and see if they are close to the norm and also see if they have colors that are off or on target so you know what to expect from your calibration.
One last point, I think you did your white balance first and maybe that could also explain why red is a trouble spot for you. I did my CCA with my white balance numbers left to default, and did my WB when i was finished doing the color calibration. The WB also affects the colors.
post #2092 of 2421
I do understand that luminance will affect x and y, but you're saying its critical to x and y. OK. Will try again and place more emphasis on getting luminance right then adjusting xy. Will have to keep adjusting luminance as each control affects the other.

I did do WB first. In fact, I have done WB in the SM for every preset. I guess because it was so easy, I did them all. You're suggesting I reset (at least one preset) them to default (512) and just do CCA? I'll try that.

Also, I should do desired W last? I know they are in order that way (in the menu), I just assumed I should start out with white as the first thing I always do is get my luminance of 100% white. I think that is always the starting point right? I input that Y reading into your handy Excel spreadsheet and all my target points are right in front of me.

Others reading this may be thinking, "Why is this guy having so much trouble"? Trust me, if it was just a matter of moving numbers (in the menu) and watching the readings in HCFR I'd have it perfect by now. As stated, the numbers (xy) get to a point and won't move anymore. Thanks for your patience.
post #2093 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by legierk View Post

I do understand that luminance will affect x and y, but you're saying its critical to x and y. OK. Will try again and place more emphasis on getting luminance right then adjusting xy. Will have to keep adjusting luminance as each control affects the other.

I did do WB first. In fact, I have done WB in the SM for every preset. I guess because it was so easy, I did them all. You're suggesting I reset (at least one preset) them to default (512) and just do CCA? I'll try that.

Also, I should do desired W last? I know they are in order that way (in the menu), I just assumed I should start out with white as the first thing I always do is get my luminance of 100% white. I think that is always the starting point right? I input that Y reading into your handy Excel spreadsheet and all my target points are right in front of me.

Others reading this may be thinking, "Why is this guy having so much trouble"? Trust me, if it was just a matter of moving numbers (in the menu) and watching the readings in HCFR I'd have it perfect by now. As stated, the numbers (xy) get to a point and won't move anymore. Thanks for your patience.

You shouldn't really have to change the luminance of white as it is the reference value. It will also change as you set the Y of the primaries and secondaries. Just measure it in HCFR and set the other colors accordingly.
You are right about keeping adjusting values. The way I did it is I changed in small amounts all 3 coordinates and sometimes you need to change one so the other can get closer to it's position.
Ideally your starting point should be neutral, and I don't really know how the SM affects the ISF mode.
Did you mail Benq to find out if some projectors have problems like the one you described? Maybe your's is just at fault somehow.
post #2094 of 2421
I currently have a w5000 but has been lamp failure issues the past 2 months and Benq is unable to fix the problem, would a W6000 be considered an upgrade due to its smaller DLP chip compared to the W5000? The W5000 projects a very sharp image and the projector is very quiet, my screen is a Dalite Cinema vision 1.3 gain 92 inch screen. Would the W6000 be to bright for my set-up? The theater room is completly light controled with flat paint, black on the ceiling and front wall and quiksilver ( light blue-grey) on the side walls. The W6000 looks cheap compared the the W5000 and I'm still unsure if the W6000 use a DC3 or DC2 chip? if it uses the DC2 .65chip I would think it would be a step down from the .95 chip in the benq W5000? I have read that the W6000 black are a tad betteer than the W5000 but if the W5000 has a cr of 10,000 to 1 and the W6000 has a cr of 50,000 to 1 then it should be a nice improvement. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
post #2095 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bing View Post

I just upgraded from a BenQ PE8720 to a W6000 and I am very pleased. Hard to believe I paid $5000 about 5 yr ago for a 720p pj. I was also interested in the JVC RS45, Sony HW30, and JVC HD250. First, I wasn't in the mood to drop $3200. Second, reading about MotionFlow and other forms of frame interpolation made me cautious. I don't like that video or soap opera effect. I don't watch sports in the HT room and both DLP and plasma have never looked juddery to me. Finally, there is currently way too many problems with 3D. Ghosting, brightness loss, cabling, uncomfortable glasses, colour shift of the glassesblah blah blahit ain't ready for prime time. In the meantime, this $1400 BenQ W6000 is just the ticket.

The build quality of the W6000 is definitely a step down from the PE8720. That beast has got probably 10lbs on its little brother. I'll miss the motorized zoom and focus but it's a luxury I can live without. The W6000 manual lens shift feels cheap but gets the job done. I have the vertical lens shift fully down and if the optic are worse at such offsets, it's not bad at all, for such placement flexibility.

Focus isn't perfect across the screen. When left side is crisp, the right side is slightly soft. But corner to corner is pretty good. From my seating distance of 13ft, the focus difference is academic. With real material, this thing is sharp. Almost too sharp. I dropped sharpness to +2 and all clarity controls to zero. Just too much noise otherwise.

This PJ is bright. (Sounds like an echo here) I'm throwing it on a 120" Dalite Video Spectra 1.5 Gain in a windowless room. The fan is a bit loud and I can hear the DI. My 8720 has the same fan noise. It has never distracted me during a quiet movie.

I think I see RBE a tiny bit more than on the PE8720. Unless I'm darting my eyes side to side during the credits, it's not a deal breaker.

I'm not a videophile. I don't pixel peep and I don't pour over Xylon's high-rez comparisons. Using some of the recommended settings from the more knowledgeable members, this BenQ serves up an image that is very satisfying. It's not the best at any one thing, it just does a lot things well. My other BenQ has been reliable, and there has been very few reports of failures here. All this for $1400..i'll be happy for a long time.

Check out some screenshots!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...935620&page=88


Thanks for this write up Bing. And nice screenshots! I agonized over the W6000 vs the same JVCs & Sony as you did and I have the W6000 on order for very similar reasons as you. I am coming from Mits HC3000 720p and will be projecting onto a Seymour Centerstage XD 125" wide 2.37 . I can't wait until it's all set up.
post #2096 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

I currently have a w5000 but has been lamp failure issues the past 2 months and Benq is unable to fix the problem, would a W6000 be considered an upgrade due to its smaller DLP chip compared to the W5000? The W5000 projects a very sharp image and the projector is very quiet, my screen is a Dalite Cinema vision 1.3 gain 92 inch screen. Would the W6000 be to bright for my set-up? The theater room is completly light controled with flat paint, black on the ceiling and front wall and quiksilver ( light blue-grey) on the side walls. The W6000 looks cheap compared the the W5000 and I'm still unsure if the W6000 use a DC3 or DC2 chip? if it uses the DC2 .65chip I would think it would be a step down from the .95 chip in the benq W5000? I have read that the W6000 black are a tad betteer than the W5000 but if the W5000 has a cr of 10,000 to 1 and the W6000 has a cr of 50,000 to 1 then it should be a nice improvement. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I think some owners here came from a W5000. I'm thinking of Electric Haggis.
The W6000 is a DC2 unit but is considered to be very sharp. I don't qualify it as being silent on operation. I also think black level is one of it's weakness.
post #2097 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

I currently have a w5000 but has been lamp failure issues the past 2 months and Benq is unable to fix the problem, would a W6000 be considered an upgrade due to its smaller DLP chip compared to the W5000? The W5000 projects a very sharp image and the projector is very quiet, my screen is a Dalite Cinema vision 1.3 gain 92 inch screen. Would the W6000 be to bright for my set-up? The theater room is completly light controled with flat paint, black on the ceiling and front wall and quiksilver ( light blue-grey) on the side walls. The W6000 looks cheap compared the the W5000 and I'm still unsure if the W6000 use a DC3 or DC2 chip? if it uses the DC2 .65chip I would think it would be a step down from the .95 chip in the benq W5000? I have read that the W6000 black are a tad betteer than the W5000 but if the W5000 has a cr of 10,000 to 1 and the W6000 has a cr of 50,000 to 1 then it should be a nice improvement. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I had similar concerns, but am now very happy.
The W6000 is a cheaper build with a slightly slower colour wheel and noticeably more fan noise.
But picture performance is a clear step up. Black levels are slightly deeper, but peak brightness is higher, so better contrast.
Sharpness is essentially the same.
The dynamic iris performs much better, and the extra zoom and lens shift are handy.
post #2098 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post

I had similar concerns, but am now very happy.
The W6000 is a cheaper build with a slightly slower colour wheel and noticeably more fan noise.
But picture performance is a clear step up. Black levels are slightly deeper, but peak brightness is higher, so better contrast.
Sharpness is essentially the same.
The dynamic iris performs much better, and the extra zoom and lens shift are handy.

I'm really concerned about the fan noise, I really like a quiet projector. Did the new firmware lower the iris and fan noise? Did u notice the slower color wheel, does it show up in degraded pictured quality? I'm thinking about upgrading to a 120 inch screen to take advantage of the W6000 brightness and to set the projector back further to from the listening position. I guess my main concern if the noise factor.
post #2099 of 2421
Coolme -
I was wondering when you calibrated, after working a while in the CCA, did you go back and re-do the grey scale in the service menu? If so - was this done with CCA off selected in the service menu, or did you leave it on?

Thanks

Nevermind - after playing with it for a while I see it doesn't make much difference in the RGB levels.
post #2100 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

I'm really concerned about the fan noise, I really like a quiet projector. Did the new firmware lower the iris and fan noise? Did u notice the slower color wheel, does it show up in degraded pictured quality? I'm thinking about upgrading to a 120 inch screen to take advantage of the W6000 brightness and to set the projector back further to from the listening position. I guess my main concern if the noise factor.

If you really need your quiet, then the W6000 might be a bit too loud for you.
Then again, maybe not. In my previous room, I had it mounted about 3 feet above the couch and 3 feet behind. There, it was a trifle too noticeable, but only during quiet scenes. Now with the new room, it's about 2 feet above the couch and 6 feet behind, and it's fine.
I have firmware 1.01. With the DB tweaks mentioned earlier, iris noise is reduced but not eliminated. The latest fw is 1.02, but I believe the DB is the same with that.
Having acoustically absorbent surfaces or shelving around the pj helps a bit.

Picture-wise, if you're used to the "look" of the W5000, then the W6000 is much the same. For me, RBE is slightly more noticeable, but only if I go to the trouble of looking for it.

Admittedly, the 0.95 chip does make a very slight difference, but the W6000 makes up for it in other departments and is really as sharp as it gets. More than sharp enough for films. Graphics are pin-sharp.

I also briefly had borrowed an Optoma HD87 (HD8600) between the two Benqs.
It's a much more expensive DC3 with a slightly more "refined" picture, deeper black level and better native contrast, but the W6000 is sharper and brighter with a much better dynamic iris.

A 2nd hand or refurbished W20000 might be worth considering. It'll be DC3 with marginally better contrast, but will be dimmer, and the DB will be inferior and not tweakable.
I considered this too, and am glad I went with the W6000.

What other contenders are there, in your case?
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