Benq w6000 - Page 72

Ahh.. Must've missed this post before.

Very sorry to hear all this.

Sounds like the .1 filter is the best of a bad lot.

Maybe if there was a filter with something more like 70%, that might give the best of both worlds.

Given there is a slight improvement with the (79%) .1, what's stopping you going with that?

just wanted to share my thoughts on my new JKP .8 dalite screen. I have NEVER seen an image so smooth and clean before. I urge anyone looking for a new screen to give Dalite's JKP screen a look.

Check the Great Found Deals Forum here for some seriously discounted pricing on the W6000.

Hey guys I just picked up this Projector and wondering if there is a quick link to the calibration settings that most people are using??? If anyone could put down what most people use for color,brightness,shaprness etc.... and do you guys use the w6000 in Eco mode or Normal for lamp settings?? Any info is greatly appreciated!

Stylz25, congratulations on your recent purchase. I purchased my W6000 in January 2012 and I am very pleased with it. For reference, below are my current settings which you can then modify to your personal preferences:

Brightness - 60
Contrast - 46
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 2
Black Level IRE - 7.5
Noise Reduction - 2
Detail Enhancement - 0
Luma - 0
Chroma - 0
Color Temp. - Normal
Gamma - 2.2
Brilliant Color - Off
Dynamic Black - On
Lamp – Economic

Eco mode is very bright.

Thanks so much for the info!!! I was wondering what the Black Level IRE is exactly??

Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis

Throw distance is 3.7 metres. Screen is matte white.
I zoom all the way out to 230cm wide for scope films, and usually around 180cm wide for 16x9. This is pretty much constant height.

The unit I bought had just under 500 hours on the lamp, which was really a good thing as I didn't need to wait for the lamp to settle down.
Firmware is the latest (1.01)


Settings (Economy lamp mode):
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 46
Color: 50
Sharpness: 3
Gamma: 2.2
ISF: On

Clarity Control: All three set to 0

Dynamic Black: On
Brilliant Color: Off
Black Level: 0 IRE


* The black level is slightly deeper than the W5000. Turning on and tweaking the DI improves it a little further still. More experimenting to do here.
As the peak white level is a good deal brighter than the W5000, you get a noticeable boost in contrast.
This concurs with Spexman's findings here.

* The DI ( Dynamic Black ) is a huge step up from the W5000.
It's very quick to respond, and the best thing is that you can tweak it.
As others have noted, setting +66 for Aperture Max eliminates clipping on peak whites, along with associated colour fluctuations.
This was often pretty horrible on the W5000. Here it's terrific.

I'm a bit confused about a few things though...
?* DB Aperture Position is a wierd one. This effectively acts as a global iris.
However, on a few occasions the iris won't budge until you hold the button down for a few seconds. (You'll hear it trying, though)
One other time, lowering the number actually brightened the picture! Hmmm...

?* Anyone know what DB Strength does?
I remember reading somewhere that changing the default of +2 to +1 or +3 actually deactivates it. That seems weird.

?* DB Aperture Min obviously sets the lowest limit for the black level.
Any reason why 11 or 13 is recommended? I tried dropping it all the way down to 1 for deeper black level, and didn't observe any crushing of shadow detail.
That said, I still preferred the extra punch up around 10, although for some films it's a nice option to have.

The settings I'm very happy with for now are...

DB Aperture Position: Around +46 (although setting this lower/darker can help some material)
DB Aperture Max: +66
DB Aperture Min: From +1 to +13 (around 10 seems to be the sweet spot)
DB Strength: +2

With these settings, the visibility of the DI is almost completely invisible, no crushed shadows, clipped highlights or wonky coloured peak whites.


* Sharpness! Despite using a smaller chip than the W5000, it's every bit as sharp. The extra brightness & contrast pushes this a good notch further.
It's slightly sharper (and punchier) than the far more expensive Optoma HD8600 / HD87, and miles ahead of LCOS projectors like the JVCs.
Gotta love those Benq optics...

* Rainbows... No problem at all.

I left CCA alone for now, and just settled on this...

Colour Temp: ISF1

White Balance: (with Color Temp in the Factory menu left on Cool)

Red Gain: +491
Green Gain: +474
Blue Gain: +520

Red Offset: +507
Green Offset: +487
Blue Offset: +512

Hey guys, want to join the W6000 circle of happy people
who to buy from? Fry's is a no go for me. Any retailer you know who can match their price or at least lower their advertised price. Thanks a lot.

Try projector people.

yea, tried but they wouldn't budge. Aren't they still making W6000? A lot of retailers do not carry anymore. I just want to pick one up before new units are all gone.

I'm not sure they're making the w6000 anymore. looks like Fry's is liquidating the stock.
Wish I could have gotten one of those Sharp ZX15000 when they did the same with it. They were sold off at $400.

I am confused, do you want dynamic black on or off? and I am assuming that is the same as dynamic iris

On..once you get your screen up you should see a difference for the better. Especially in those dark scenes.

You want to have it enabled, if your in the Market for a screen I would recommend the JKP .8 gain screen.

I was curious on your color setting? 50 seems pretty low to me! I put in Avatar and for the colors to look awesome my setting is around 62-64!! Am I missing something? Anyone else have theirs higher?

Has anyone gone from using 0 IRE to 7.5 IRE (as above), and noticed any improvement?

Seems to me that once you've corrected this in the Brightness setting, it works out the same.
Am I missing something?

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/t/11...-7-5-ire-0-ire

Anyone? Is something wrong with my W6000 if I have to put my color way up?

That does seem high, if your using one of the USER modes like USER 1,2, or 3 I would check in the color management and make sure the gain and bais are at 50. Are u using a test disk to set or colors? I would not adjust the colors without a test disk.

I will check that out when I get home!! I'm using User 1 and I didn't adjust any specific colors yet. Just the color near brightness and contrast. Maybe cause my ceiling is white from my drop ceiling tiles?!

I have color set to 60 as well. My walls and ceilings are white also. I adjusted it by comparing the color to my 5080 pioneer. Im happy with it at 60, adjust to your liking.

I noticed the W6000 is now noisier at 24Hz than 60Hz where in the past it used to be quieter. I presume the firmware is speeding up the refresh rate 3 times 24Hz to 72Hz or even 4 times at 96Hz? I believe before it was doing 48Hz (2X color wheel?) and if one can stand the increased chance of rainbows can it be adjusted in the service menu back to 48Hz? Hopefully, I prefer the lack of noise.

Do you mean after a firmware upgrade?

I was trying to read back to see what FW you're on now, but couldn't track it down...?

(Curious to know if there's any point going from 1.01 to 1.02.)

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. Over the years I have used several W6000s in my room. The last two I have noticed 24Hz is much louder than 60Hz and I believe it's the color wheel speed. I can easily tell this when I switch between the menu and test patterns as the menu is 60Hz and the test patterns switch to 24Hz. The moment the test pattern is displayed the noise is increased and it sounds like a color wheel... medium to high pitch whine.

If I remember you can adjust the color wheel multiplier in the service menu. Which would allow me to lower the speed for 24Hz... back to 48Hz I'm presuming. Firmware wise the current unit is 102. I believe I did such a while back and it indeed got quieter however I could spot rainbows (much easier).

Update: I searched the thread and found the related info... I guess it was always louder. Until you changed the multiplier to slow down 24Hz.

There is also a color wheel multiplier that changes from 2 for 30 fps video to 3 for 24hz video essentially making it a 6x color wheel for 24hz movies.

Have you spotted any visible differences switching from 4x to 6x, apart from RBE?

How about 1.02 images & functionality, versus 1.01 ?

All things being equal 72Hz (96Hz?) should be better than 48Hz... less strain on the eyes, better motion and whatnot. In the past when I slowed it down I never noticed any real difference regarding the image. I just noticed with test patterns (small white lines with a black background) it was easier to see rainbows if I moved my head quickly. The real difference I heard was much less noise. At 60Hz the projector is a loud whirl and when you switch to 24Hz the whine kicks in. It might not bother some but (for me) it's rather obnoxious. If I remember I never got the setting to stick (perhaps I was too scared to save it) as once I set it to 2x in 24Hz all was fine. However the moment I went back to 60Hz and then back to 24Hz it was back to 3x.

Firmware wise I haven't played around with either enough to offer a valid opinion.

I played around with this last night. 24Hz is definitely louder (plus higher pitched) than 60Hz. The moment I lowered the Multiplier to 2x (from 3x) it quieted down to roughly the level of 60Hz. I could't tell any difference in the image... what little I tried.

I would like to find a way to save the 2x setting for 24Hz as it does indeed go back to 3x the moment you display 60Hz. There is a save option in the service menu but I haven't messed around enough or had the nerve to check it out.

I have noticed 24hz is louder too but lately after 20 seconds it gets just quiet as when its at 60hz.

I did a big search and was unlucky in finding any conclusive information. How does this compare to the Optoma HD8600 and the Infocus IN83? Which throws out the best picture. My room is light controlled and has a 120" 2.35 screen. I also watch sports so I'd like to be able to torch the screen with lights on. Color in brightest mode doesn't really matter as long as it's not disgusting.

When dynamic is selected can you push the green tint out any way? I like it for daylight viewing in ambient light. But the skin tones are not too good.