Benq w6000 - Page 80

its good price i thiink about buy this

It's not only enhances sharpness but also enhances the perceived contrast & details
Edited by WereWolf84 - 1/24/13 at 4:26am

The better the source the better it works. I used my test disk to confirm it was not altering peak black/white levels and also looked at sharpness patterns for ringing and everything looked clean. I recommend Hidef mode at 45%, I notice at higher levels the faces become waxy looking and at 45% everything looks natural but with enhacements. I noticed on Directv the results varied depending on the material, it took Dexter on showtime to a whole different level and on other channels the results were not that signiifcant. I then switched to blurays and WOW, I was not expecting much since blurays usaully look great from the start but was I surprised at the results. I watched several clips of movies on bluray with turning the Darbee on/off and with it off it gives you the impression that the W6000 is out of focus. I removed the Darbee completey out of the chain to confirm the darbeee was not degrading the picture while off and it did not. The darbee gives you the sense that you just upgraded your lens/ projector, Highly recommend it.
Edited by Mike Butny - 1/24/13 at 8:56am

The darbee is NO gimmick.

I, like most all AVS'rs were very skeptical of the darbee, but after trying it, we changed our mind. I say 'we' 'cos if you read through the darbee thread here, you'll see about a 98% or more praising rate. I've never seen any one product get such a favorable opinion here on AVS, and I've been around AVS for a LOong time

It does Look like a gimmick though (the box that is).

Anyway, makes my Mits HC3800 look like it has a WAY more expensive lens. Also works great with my LCD/LED flatscreen. It doesn't matter how 'sharp' you consider your display, the darbee will put it in focus just a little more.

 

I agree it's not a gimmick per se. By increasing the intrascene contrast ratio it gives the image an additional perceived sharpness. Quite a few of the Blu-ray players play the same game (based on their user settings - old Pioneer players did such to a large degree) and over the years I have always been instantly impressed with the result. Especially, with a very large image and viewing it from less than 1.5 screen's width or so. However often the image will take on a roughness that becomes artificial such as skin complexions becoming coarse.

 

Once you lower the affect to the level you no longer see its artifacts the result isn't all that different. Based on again your image size and viewing distance. I will say its side affects are more noticeable with still images and tend to be less obvious under normal viewing conditions. Perfect example is their home page... their images wouldn't get me to purchase one. :) Click on the gal in the gallery... up close the before look dramatically better... further away you can make a case the after is better...

Yeah, I looked at the Darbee thing too....until you begin to realize the fact that you simply cannot add information to video/film/photography that wasn't there to begin with. Looks like artificial enhancement (degradation?) with extra contrast and saturation to me.

There is processing going on no matter what in our video devices (nice theater btw). There is really no such thing as an unprocessed image anymore, though there are images that are less processed. Everything our devices are doing to get the image onto the screen is processing it. Did you know that some projectors sharpen the image even with sharpness at 0, and also that MOST digital cameras add essentially SOME sharpening to an image even when you have sharpening off when you take a picture?

The Darby doesn't affect all images the same and on some scenes it isn't worth it, but it adds a little bit of enhancement that can definitely improve the image when combined with other sharpening filters. Even in the original filmed source, the end result is remastered, processed, and filters are often added (sometimes in the re-mastering they add their own sharpening). It depends what you are doing and watching. The closest thing to a natural image would be on an ANALOG film (35mm, 70mm, etc...), but most movies are no longer filmed that way except for a few "showoff" ones.

http://www.imatest.com/docs/sharpening/
"The algorithm for standardized sharpening takes advantage of the observation that most compact digital cameras sharpen with a radius R of about 2 pixels (though R can be as low as 1 for DSLRs). This has been the case for several cameras I’ve analyzed using data from dpreview.com and imaging-resource.com. The algorithm for standardized sharpening is as follows."

MTFstandard( f ) = MTF( f ) (1- ksharp cos(2πR f/dscan)) / (1- ksharp )
where sharpening constant ksharp is set so MTFstandard( feql ) = MTF(0) = 1. fN = dscan/2 is the Nyquist frequency; feql = 0.3 fN ; feql = 0.6 MTF50 for seriously blurred edges where MTF50 < 0.2 fN.
Edited by coderguy - 1/25/13 at 5:06pm

Thought I would share this: I had been having issues with what I called the watercolor effect...really hoaky picture. The problem would only happen at startup and could sometimes be solved by restarting the PJ. Anyhow, I changed the bulb and the problem disappeard. The old bulb was a cheap Ebay bulb (generic). It had 420 hours on it when I changed it. I put in a new Phillips lamp and it's like a new PJ. So, the moral for me is, don't buy generic ebay lamps. Hope it helps someone else.

Man.....

I'm coming up on the 1yr anniversary of my w6000. I remember when I first bought it on April 1st of last year I was blown away at the bright picture. Well after having the SAME lamp in the machine since day 1, I decided to buy a new one and WOW! I had forgotten just how bright this pj is with a new lamp! A new lamp does WONDERS to the colors and contrast! Geez, right now even brightness and contrast on 50 is almost too bright! I wonder how I went so long running this machine on the same bulb. I need to try and do right by this projector by changing the bulb when the lamp timer reaches 2000 or whatever hours the limit is. Only thing is that lamp price

I have had mine for just over a 1 Year and I'm coming up to 1000 hours and run it in low lamp mode, still bright. The bulb will retain its brightness longer while running in low mode.

I've had my w7000 for a few months and have about 500 hours on it now. Brightness is still really good, mine dropped about 20% is all so far. I am using IRIS position 6 and have a long ways to go before I would need to use the PJ in High Lamp mode, even for 3D. of course I'm on a 106" HP screen, so that is why :P

Yeah, low lamp mode is the way to go. I guarantee I'll hit 2000 hours before you guys do, because I'm running this thing like 14 hrs a day on average lol Too many games too many movies.

On another interesting note, I have my w6000 connected to my PC, and for some weird reason my Nvidia graphics card lists my pj as w5500, when before they repaired it it was listed properly as w6000. Must've been the internal component change.