AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread
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Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 202

post #6031 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chum View Post

Has anyone mounted this beast on a wall yet? If so, what sort of mount did you go with?

I have mine mounted on a wall. I'm renting a condo and the landlord already had a mount set above the fireplace and I was able to use it for my 54g10. It is a standard tilt mount, likethis one.
post #6032 of 9976
Hey Guys,

I am going to be making the switch to Plasma Soon, and had a few questions on this set.

1. If don't plan on using 1080p/24 sources, and I think THX modes are typicaly too dark, is there any difference between this and the V10?

2. Is there a set coming larger than 54?

3. Hows reflections on this set?

Thanks guys, I would normally just go see the set, but no place around me carries this one yet!
post #6033 of 9976
I just ordered a 46" G10 through Newegg.com. I had been watching it, torturing myself, wondering when I'd finally be ready to pull the trigger and this morning when I checked it the price had shot up from $1186 to $1699!

I quickly started a live chat session with a Newegg rep to see if I could get a credit for the difference if I purchased today and they said yes! Not really sure why the price suddenly jumped up but if anyone was considering ordering the 46" from Newegg try what I did. Be warned though they told me I'd have to order within 24 hrs of the price change to get the credit.

So hopefully I'll have mine by the weekend. I already called my tv service provider to get the HD receiver on Friday.

Quick question in the mean time: Because of the break in period with plasma tvs should I avoid certain things for the first 100 hours or so? Like for example gaming or anything that may cause image retention such as black bars on the sides of the screen for standard def or news tickers? Or is this just an issue with older plasmas and I am ok? I apologize if these things have been discussed but this thread is sooo long. Thanks.
post #6034 of 9976
Mine is wall mounted on a walmart tilt mount 114 buckaroos.
post #6035 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meteor|WAR View Post

Quick question in the mean time: Because of the break in period with plasma tvs should I avoid certain things for the first 100 hours or so? Like for example gaming or anything that may cause image retention such as black bars on the sides of the screen for standard def or news tickers? Or is this just an issue with older plasmas and I am ok? I apologize if these things have been discussed but this thread is sooo long. Thanks.

From my recent experience with my new G15 (same internals as G10) I can tell you that avoiding gaming, black bars and stagnant tickers/emblems for the first 100 hours or so would be wise. During the first 50 hours or so in particular I noticed image retention from 2.35:1 movie bars as well as a movie menu (on one occasion). Per the advice here and elsewhere I avoided gaming and 4:3 side bars, so I have no immediate experience with those (although I imagine the risk is the same).

I also noticed that the longer the television has been on, the lower the risk for image retention. Not sure of the scientific explanation for this, but any IR problems I experienced occurred after turning the unit on and immediately viewing stagnant images (movie bars, movie menu, etc). The good news is that the IR in all instances was temporary and was easily removed by running the scrolling bar and/or leaving the television set to an active HD channel e.g. Discover HD Theater. As the television has broken in (currently at 175 hours), IR has declined to the point of being almost non-existent.
post #6036 of 9976
Ok I have been using serialmikes settings but just got NHL 10. If I use the settings for gaming the ice looks really off color and dull. Is there any suggestion for game settings that makes things a little brighter and more colorful without going to the default "game" settings that come with the TV? Or does everyone use the same settings they watch TV with to game ?
post #6037 of 9976
TC-P50G10 Settings: After 5 months, and just over 1050 hours of use, I find I have settled on these settings. I use them both during the day and evening. Sometimes, the color is a bit more intense than it should be, but it depends on the source. Also, I have a very brightly lit room. I have not gone into the service setting at all. These settings also make some of the SD programming pop a bit more.

Custom Setting
Contrast: 88
Brightness: 51
Color: 44
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 48
LL
post #6038 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meehow21 View Post

Yes, ESPN broadcasts in 720p.

Even more kudos to ESPN then because they squeezed every line of resolution they could out of the Raiders/Chargers game last night. Good game and picture. It had me in HD POP heaven.
post #6039 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDamon View Post

Ok I have been using serialmikes settings but just got NHL 10. If I use the settings for gaming the ice looks really off color and dull. Is there any suggestion for game settings that makes things a little brighter and more colorful without going to the default "game" settings that come with the TV? Or does everyone use the same settings they watch TV with to game ?

If you are using default game settings, You are not using my settings.
post #6040 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by ts-x View Post

From my recent experience with my new G15 (same internals as G10) I can tell you that avoiding gaming, black bars and stagnant tickers/emblems for the first 100 hours or so would be wise. During the first 50 hours or so in particular I noticed image retention from 2.35:1 movie bars as well as a movie menu (on one occasion). Per the advice here and elsewhere I avoided gaming and 4:3 side bars, so I have no immediate experience with those (although I imagine the risk is the same).

I also noticed that the longer the television has been on, the lower the risk for image retention. Not sure of the scientific explanation for this, but any IR problems I experienced occurred after turning the unit on and immediately viewing stagnant images (movie bars, movie menu, etc). The good news is that the IR in all instances was temporary and was easily removed by running the scrolling bar and/or leaving the television set to an active HD channel e.g. Discover HD Theater. As the television has broken in (currently at 175 hours), IR has declined to the point of being almost non-existent.

Thanks for the feedback. I will be sure to avoid gaming and run all my tv broadcast and movies in fullscreen for the first 100 hours. I'm not planning to "break in" the tv using the methods mentioned in this thread, but havent decided 100% yet on that. Figured I'd just let it break in by normal use over time. This is actually my first HDTV so I am still learning everything.
post #6041 of 9976
Thanks for all of the mount responses. My biggest question is with the back of the set - looking back there yesterday it wasn't very clear to me how I would attach a mount to the plasma. Does anyone know if Panasonic has documentation on the subject? Or will be it become clear what I'm supposed to do once I pick up the mount?

TIA.
post #6042 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chum View Post

Thanks for all of the mount responses. My biggest question is with the back of the set - looking back there yesterday it wasn't very clear to me how I would attach a mount to the plasma. Does anyone know if Panasonic has documentation on the subject? Or will be it become clear what I'm supposed to do once I pick up the mount?

There are four little round removeable plastic covers covering the mounting holes. Just pop em out and you'll see the threads.
post #6043 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

If you are using default game settings, You are not using my settings.

I'm not using default game settings. What I am saying is I love your settings when I watch TV from my reciever or watch a movie but for gaming like with NHL the ice tends to look dull and off-color with those settings. Has a yellow tint. If I turn it to "Game default" settings it's better but it's got the contrast all the way up. I guess what I am wondering is do you use the same settings for movies and gaming? I guess I am looking for something that's not as intense as the default game settings.

One thing I guess I could try is to turn it from Warm 2 back to normal when gaming.

By the way thanks for your settings and all your help.
post #6044 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDamon View Post

I'm not using default game settings. What I am saying is I love your settings when I watch TV from my reciever or watch a movie but for gaming like with NHL the ice tends to look dull and off-color with those settings. Has a yellow tint. If I turn it to "Game default" settings it's better but it's got the contrast all the way up. I guess what I am wondering is do you use the same settings for movies and gaming? I guess I am looking for something that's not as intense as the default game settings.

One thing I guess I could try is to turn it from Warm 2 back to normal when gaming.

By the way thanks for your settings and all your help.

What you do is name the input to game (which will switch it to the game preset) and then you switch it back to standard mode and input his settings.
post #6045 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDamon View Post

I'm not using default game settings. What I am saying is I love your settings when I watch TV from my reciever or watch a movie but for gaming like with NHL the ice tends to look dull and off-color with those settings. Has a yellow tint. If I turn it to "Game default" settings it's better but it's got the contrast all the way up. I guess what I am wondering is do you use the same settings for movies and gaming? I guess I am looking for something that's not as intense as the default game settings.

One thing I guess I could try is to turn it from Warm 2 back to normal when gaming.

By the way thanks for your settings and all your help.

Ah sorry, I misunderstood. Glad you like the settings. Yes I use the same settings for everything. I use standard mode.
post #6046 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

What you do is name the input to game (which will switch it to the game preset) and then you switch it back to standard mode and input his settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

Ah sorry, I misunderstood. Glad you like the settings. Yes I use the same settings for everything. I use standard mode.

Yeah Pendragoon I know about the "game" mode part. mike did a great job of explaining that earlier in the thread. What I am looking for those is something with mikes settings that will make NHL 10 the game look a little better. I'ts a bright game with a lot of white obviously with the ice. Mikes settings I am using is his Custom ones and when playing games some things just don't look right to me. Or maybe they are right and they just don't look like it to me as I was used to always just using default settings on my Toshiba TV and I never really messed with making it look correct.
post #6047 of 9976
Hi, getting delivery from Amazon Friday of my new 46G10 and I'm sure I have to perform some minor surgery on my cabinet. The screen with pedestal is about 1" higher than the present opening. A bit of judicious shelf relocation will help with that. But it is the depth of the pedestal that is going to cause a tight fit.

Can anyone with a 46" oval pedestal help me with a few measurements?

1. Distance from the front edge of screen to front edge of pedestal
2. Distance from rear edge of screen to read edge of pedestal

I know the pedestal dimensions and the screen thickness, I just don't know where the screen sits /on/ the pedestal

Thanks...Vista
post #6048 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistah Vistah View Post

1. Distance from the front edge of screen to front edge of pedestal

Looks like 5 7/8".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistah Vistah View Post

2. Distance from rear edge of screen to read edge of pedestal

Measured at 5 1/4".

Done with a tape measure and probably accurate to within 1/8". Hope that helps
post #6049 of 9976
Have a another dumb question I am sure.

The text in the Xbox 360 Dashboard looks very grainy and out of focus on this TV compaired to my last TV. Anyone have a suggestion for that and why that is?
post #6050 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDamon View Post

Have a another dumb question I am sure.

The text in the Xbox 360 Dashboard looks very grainy and out of focus on this TV compaired to my last TV. Anyone have a suggestion for that and why that is?

Do you have your Xbox set to output 1080i/p?
I have mine set to 1080i (over component) and everything is smooth and clean.
post #6051 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by ts-x View Post

From my recent experience with my new G15 (same internals as G10) I can tell you that avoiding gaming, black bars and stagnant tickers/emblems for the first 100 hours or so would be wise. During the first 50 hours or so in particular I noticed image retention from 2.35:1 movie bars as well as a movie menu (on one occasion). Per the advice here and elsewhere I avoided gaming and 4:3 side bars, so I have no immediate experience with those (although I imagine the risk is the same).

I also noticed that the longer the television has been on, the lower the risk for image retention. Not sure of the scientific explanation for this, but any IR problems I experienced occurred after turning the unit on and immediately viewing stagnant images (movie bars, movie menu, etc). The good news is that the IR in all instances was temporary and was easily removed by running the scrolling bar and/or leaving the television set to an active HD channel e.g. Discover HD Theater. As the television has broken in (currently at 175 hours), IR has declined to the point of being almost non-existent.

+1
same expierence here on a G10
post #6052 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by brainwashed View Post

I was in the same boat, spent weeks researching and then decided on the Panasonic TC-P50G10. When I get to the store, all of the sales people were trying to talk me out of it... and then they showed me "Transformers" on Blu-ray on both a UN467100 and the Panasonic G10. The Panny looked terrible comparitively. How is that possible? That day I decided to purchase the UN467100 over the G10, but I'm haveing buyers remorse as in my home the Samsung's colors are overly bright... almost too vivid? And there is motion blur and poor off angle viewing. Ugh.

How is it possible that one of the highest rated sets made today looks so weak on the Best Buy sales floor? I just don't understand. I'm about ready to return the 7100 but when I went back to the Best Buy the Panny still looked gray, not black. Do I need to just pull the trigger and see the G10 in my own home? We are totaly new to the HDTV arena and it's alot of money to commit to a set without the ability to 'test drive' it in any real way aside from buying it and taking it home.

brain..

I saw in your follow up that you are headed for a G10. If you want blacks (ie wide contrast so you can saturate the colors etc) you will get them. Never mind what you saw at BB. The Samsung B7100 is Best Buy's house version of the Sammy B7000. It is possible (I say possible) that BB encourages their salespeople to sell their house brand. It is likely a good profit margin product.

Just in case... you are aware that HDTV is not plug and play, for best results? It's not your Dad's TV. The one you brought home, turned it on, adjusted the brightness and contrast once, and you were good for the next 5-10 years.

The HDTVs have "settings" which can effect a huge difference in your viewing picture. Some people do just take the HDTV home, and use the factory settings. Makes for some real crappy viewing, as factory settings are usually set for showroom screaming and burning of facial hair.

Settings can also be used for evil. Sounds like your BB buddies have the G10 set for a mode called "Crappola". That's where you take a TV with a well-know reputation (Like a G10). You use the settings to crap it up a bit. Then you compare it to the HDTV you want to sell. "Look at this G10. Decent TV, great rep. But look how much better our XZ9000 picture is!"

I have also seen people do some frighteningly heinous chit to their own TVs with the settings. Particularly on LCDs with that 120/240 Hz Motion stuff, which is to smooth flying pixels (blur) and de-judder the picture. It can really molest film sources.

But I digress..

I did note the 50 G10 is about $600 cheaper than the B7100. So that's a good thing. And my opinion is that there is a lot of fat in the B7100 price, for bells and whistles, which don't relate directly to picture quality.

So, Yes. It does suck that you can't get a decent test drive before you buy. And I do beat up on Best Buy alot. But their 30-day free swap is worth the premium to a lot of people. It's good for their customers and for their business.
post #6053 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rig85 View Post

I have a surround sound system now, so I don't use the TV speakers any longer, but I think I know what is causing your issue. Do you guys have the Bass Boost (or something like that) turned on? Check your sound settings, and shut it off if you have it on. That should solve the issue.

I noticed shortly after turning Bass Boost on that it made some sounds sound really bad...turning it off alleviated the issue.

Thanks for the tip!
Was coming here to look for a solution to just that problem.
post #6054 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaa-Yoo View Post

Do you have your Xbox set to output 1080i/p?
I have mine set to 1080i (over component) and everything is smooth and clean.

I have it on 720p It's over component. I can try 1080i and see what that changes.
post #6055 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big L View Post

Anyway I'm wondering what settings other PS3 owners are using to get the most out of their G10s. Right now I have everything set to 'automatic' on the PS3.
FWIW I was watching in THX mode. Tried the other modes but THX looked the best. For gaming I use the Game mode. I played around with 60 vs. 48 Hz and noticed flickering with 48 Hz immediately.

Thanks for any tips.

Anyone?
post #6056 of 9976
Great Chum, that'll help. Now to get the cuts made for a decent fit.

Thanks...Vista



1. Distance from the front edge of screen to front edge of pedestal
Looks like 5 7/8".

2. Distance from rear edge of screen to read edge of pedestal
Measured at 5 1/4".

Done with a tape measure and probably accurate to within 1/8". Hope that helps
post #6057 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffread View Post

TC-P50G10 Settings: After 5 months, and just over 1050 hours of use, I find I have settled on these settings. I use them both during the day and evening. Sometimes, the color is a bit more intense than it should be, but it depends on the source. Also, I have a very brightly lit room. I have not gone into the service setting at all. These settings also make some of the SD programming pop a bit more.

Custom Setting
Contrast: 88
Brightness: 51
Color: 44
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 48


thanks for this.
post #6058 of 9976
What exactly does "Sharpness" do? The reason I ask is in most settings I see most stuff is pretty close but on the setting above and some others Sharpness is much diffrent. Mike had his at 83, The above is 48 and I think I saw one on Cnet that was 25.
post #6059 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big L View Post

Anyone?

automatic's good.
post #6060 of 9976
I think we need to start a g10 picture settings thread. I too have a PS3 and have been trying to settle on what picture mode/ settings look the best. I have been in the service menu, and entered Jeff Lackeys settings, which look really good. Jeff, If your reading, did you stick with your offsets you posted. Do you game on your plasma ? If So, are you using just your normal custom settings for gaming? Anyone else calibrated their set, of have suggestions ?
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