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Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 207

post #6181 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by vgsmike View Post

I ordered the 42" G10 from Amazon, got it a couple days ago, and began running the break-in slides.

First thing I did was upgrade the firmware. Then when I first began the slides, the TV turned itself off and the red LED blinked 14 times. I unplugged it in the chance it was a bad power supply or something. When I plugged it back in a little while later, it seemed to work fine. I let it run the slides for about 60 hours so far.

This morning, I unplugged the TV to move it onto the TV stand where I'm going to keep it. I plugged it back in, powered up, and it shut itself off again and I'm getting the 14 blinks again.

Does anybody know what 14 blinks means on the G10's?

Edit: It might be a crazy coincidence, but when I connected the TV to my network, it powered up fine. Hope it STAYS fine. Oy!

I would google what 14 blinks mean to be sure it's not a serious problem.
post #6182 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplelagoon View Post

When I bought both my Panasonic P46G15 and Panasonic Blu Ray player, my hope was that I could control the latter with the TV's remote. This was my prime motivation in my impulse buy to get the blu ray player. Does anyone know how I can accomplish this? Thanks

For me, I simply made sure that under |MENU->Viera Link->Player| was selected and now my 50G15 remote controls all the functions of my DMPBD30 blu-ray...
post #6183 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by IIPale RiderII View Post

For me, I simply made sure that under |MENU->Viera Link->Player| was selected and now my 50G15 remote controls all the functions of my DMPBD30 blu-ray...

Excellent; worked great. Thank you.
post #6184 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabolic View Post

I would google what 14 blinks mean to be sure it's not a serious problem.

Yeah, that's the first thing I did. Best results I could find were for (I believe) last year's models and the list only went up to 13 blinks. Hoping somebody has a new list.
post #6185 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplelagoon View Post

Excellent; worked great. Thank you.

No problem. I actually had my BDP1500 hooked up to the 50G15 but then decided it would make more sense to match my older BD30 to it. I also see a noticeable improvement in the DVD upconverting quality of my BD30->50G15 than I did with BDP1500->50G15...

Glad you got it working.
post #6186 of 9976
those who are looking. Sears has the 54g10 on sale and you can take an additional 10% off, with online code: HALFTIME. it's the cheapest I've seen for this so far, both online and b&m.
I wish I can hop on this now. I'm still about 6 weeks away before I'm "allowed" to purchase.
post #6187 of 9976
I would love to jump on the 50" Panasonic price but I too must wait a few more weeks. It does sound like we may have the same problem. Wonder if they are related?
post #6188 of 9976
vgsmike: The manual only shows blinks to 13 times, and that is a communications error.
If you continue to get it, call Panasonic.
post #6189 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffread View Post

vgsmike: The manual only shows blinks to 13 times, and that is a communications error.
If you continue to get it, call Panasonic.

And if you are within your return period at the store, return it. If my new unit displays one little thing wrong with it during the first 30 days, big river is going to get a call for a replacement. A brand new set should not be something I have to deal with "fixing", it's why one should push electronics VERY hard during the first few weeks of ownership to unmask any issues.
post #6190 of 9976
So, is the "flickering" I am hearing about a huge issue? I assume its not or many people would have returned the TV correct? Also, I heard it was fixed in this thread by a firmware update, but it was not confirmed. Is this true?
post #6191 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabolic View Post

And if you are within your return period at the store, return it. If my new unit displays one little thing wrong with it during the first 30 days, big river is going to get a call for a replacement. A brand new set should not be something I have to deal with "fixing", it's why one should push electronics VERY hard during the first few weeks of ownership to unmask any issues.

I agree, when i got my G10 i ran the break in slides and about 120hrs into it the SS Board on my G10 popped and they had to come out and replace it. I was told it was defective right out of the factory and that they are surprised it didn't pop any sooner.
post #6192 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by iVersatile View Post

I agree, when i got my G10 i ran the break in slides and about 120hrs into it the SS Board on my G10 popped and they had to come out and replace it. I was told it was defective right out of the factory and that they are surprised it didn't pop any sooner.

Crap, my set has a date of manufacture March 2009 , yet I got it in September! No idea how come I have such an old unit from amazon. How can I tell if the SS board is bad?
post #6193 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabolic View Post

Crap, my set has a date of manufacture March 2009 , yet I got it in September! No idea how come I have such an old unit from amazon. How can I tell if the SS board is bad?

There really is no way to tell. I was watching a movie and got a phone call so i ran the while scrolling bar to avoid leaving a static image when i got done with the call, i went to sit back down to enjoy my movie and i heard a loud "pop" the TV turned off and when i tried to turn it back on the LED light was blinking four times which indicated that there was either a power board failure or SS.Board failure.
post #6194 of 9976
What ever happened to buying a set and just watching it? I never went thru this with my Old TH50X. It looked fine. Are the newer sets just sensitive? My home got robbed so they took my pld plasma() I am planning on the new G10 but this thread has me wondering. Burn in-Break in-IR dont watch movies with black bars-scared to have the menu come up after changeing the channel? Jeeze!
post #6195 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpcgamer View Post

What ever happened to buying a set and just watching it? I never went thru this with my Old TH50X. It looked fine. Are the newer sets just sensitive? My home got robbed so they took my pld plasma() I am planning on the new G10 but this thread has me wondering. Burn in-Break in-IR dont watch movies with black bars-scared to have the menu come up after changeing the channel? Jeeze!

haha, see a few posts up about "Unnecessary paranoia"
post #6196 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmen82 View Post

So, is the "flickering" I am hearing about a huge issue? I assume its not or many people would have returned the TV correct? Also, I heard it was fixed in this thread by a firmware update, but it was not confirmed. Is this true?

As far as I can tell, the flickering is only a problem if you engage the '48 Hz' option while watching 24p Blu-Rays.

FYI, as soon as I got my PS3 Slim I threw in The Dark Knight and put the G10 in 48 Hz. Yuk. The flicker was immediate and VERY noticeable. Reminded me of when a fluorescent bulb starts to go bad. I don't know how some people say they don't see it or that they actually prefer it over leaving the set @ 60 Hz.
On top of that, to my eyes, 48 Hz did nothing to improve the picture quality. So it was a no-brainer, for me, to leave it @ 60 Hz and Blu-Rays look fantastic.
So far I've watched Dark Knight, 300 and I Am Legend and all 3 were drop-dead gorgeous.

That's the only flicker I've ever experienced with this set.
post #6197 of 9976
I have 10 hours left for the 100 hour break in period on my 46G15. A few weeks ago when I received the G15 the pq was good, but now its even better with better black levels, better picture detail, and better color. When the breakin period is finished can I start watching movies with an aspect ratio of 2:35:1 and can I also watch shows that have the 4x3 aspect ratio without setting the g15 to just mode? Also is it ok to do the picture calibration when the breakin period is finished?
post #6198 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by panabolic View Post

haha, see a few posts up about "Unnecessary paranoia"


Ha ha. Yep, that was me. I tend to worry a lot about new electronics too. However, sometimes paranoia is necessary and sometimes not. Which is exactly why I took the sensible route and didn't use break-in slides.

I bought my G15 on Friday and the manufacturing date is August 2009 so I can't beat that. Maybe Amazon was sitting on a ton of inventory since they came out or more likely they weren't cycling out the inventory properly to get rid of the old first.

I tell you what though, I have been playing some video games an hour or two here and there this weekend and have had not a hint of IR. Trust me, I've been looking for it! I won't be risking any 3 to 4 hour gaming sessions until after the 100 hour mark though.
post #6199 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpcgamer View Post

What ever happened to buying a set and just watching it? I never went thru this with my Old TH50X. It looked fine. Are the newer sets just sensitive? My home got robbed so they took my pld plasma() I am planning on the new G10 but this thread has me wondering. Burn in-Break in-IR dont watch movies with black bars-scared to have the menu come up after changeing the channel? Jeeze!

I agree with you 100%.

Don't get me wrong, I love my G10 and I'm (now) an advocate of PDPs. But the 'average' person is going to get turned off immediately as soon as they start hearing about breaking-in, image retention, not watching content with black bars, not playing too many videogames (especially with HUDs), not turning up the contrast past 50 for the first 100+ hours, etc.
It's just too much. Most people, like you said, just want to WATCH the darn thing. They don't want to baby it...
Thus the popularity of LCD. You just plug 'em in and you watch 'em however you want, whenever you want, whatever you want, right outta the box.

I mean PQ-wise we all know that plasma beats LCD everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. But we also know how much Joe Sixpack cares (or even knows) about picture quality.

I don't know, sometimes I think threads like this do more harm than good...

/rant

PS the G10 is a great TV. I like to think of it as the poor man's KURO. Don't hesitate to buy one.
post #6200 of 9976
As my signature says, the ONLY thing panasonic says is not to do much non-full screen viewing in the first 100 or so hours. I love this part:

The rule of thumb: if you don't worry about your traditional tube TV, you don't have to worry about a Panasonic plasma TV.
post #6201 of 9976
How much buzzing should there be on the G10s? I am sitting 8' away for the 54" and if I have muted volume definitely can hear a bit of buzzing, depending on the brightness of the screen, sometimes the screen flashes something bright and you would hear a quick "blip" of buzz. If you put your head near the back of the TV you can hear it more. Luckily most movies are widescreen and the screen isn't bright so the noise on average is minimal.

But I doubt one would hear it if you even set the movie more than a whisper volume. I searched this thread for word "buzz" and came up with 4 pages of results so this plasma definitely have some.. do you agree?
post #6202 of 9976
Is there a setting on the TV that will reduce phosphor trails? Do phosphor trails get better over time?
post #6203 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindman View Post

Is there a setting on the TV that will reduce phosphor trails? Do phosphor trails get better over time?

Yeah, phospher trail blind eye setting on/off. Enables a system whereby you just watch the set instead of looking for things that are inherent with the technology. Also flashes on screen disadvantages of LCD to help you worry less about it.

Seriously you have to be looking purposefully for it and even then I dont see it.
post #6204 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdok View Post

Hey, just put together a chart with the various G10 settings I have collected from this site and others. I wanted to have a quick reference that I could print and put by the TV.

As has been said many times before, these are just starting points - every room and lighting situation is different.

By the way, a link is included for each column to go to the original source of the information. I by no means want to take credit for the settings.

I probably missed some settings, so if you want others included, let me know.

I tried using some of the custom mode settings on the pdf chart. Colors and blacks look fine, but I noticed when there is a fully white screen the whites seem to have a yellow tint to them. Is it suppose to look yellow? Or would it be considered an 'accurate' white?
post #6205 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpcgamer View Post

What ever happened to buying a set and just watching it? I never went thru this with my Old TH50X. It looked fine. Are the newer sets just sensitive? My home got robbed so they took my pld plasma() I am planning on the new G10 but this thread has me wondering. Burn in-Break in-IR dont watch movies with black bars-scared to have the menu come up after changeing the channel? Jeeze!

I've been asking myself that question all week long. It's unquestionably the best picture. But it's going to be a high maintenance TV, at least for me.
post #6206 of 9976
panabolic,

Interesting about the manufacture date of your set. Bought a G10 two weeks ago from a different dealer and it also had a 3/09 date. Not sure why that would matter though. For all we know sets manufactured in March might be better than those from July or August :-) Now if it was put together in March 2008......
post #6207 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

Yeah, phospher trail blind eye setting on/off. Enables a system whereby you just watch the set instead of looking for things that are inherent with the technology. Also flashes on screen disadvantages of LCD to help you worry less about it.

Seriously you have to be looking purposefully for it and even then I dont see it.

Ha ha nice! I like that.

I tried to look for phosphor trails and see none at all. In fact, I've seen no drawbacks at all after 25+ hours with this set. No IR. No phosphor trails. No buzzing. No excessive heat.

I think people trick themselves into seeing problems.
post #6208 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by IIPale RiderII View Post

Ha ha nice! I like that.

I tried to look for phosphor trails and see none at all. In fact, I've seen no drawbacks at all after 25+ hours with this set. No IR. No phosphor trails. No buzzing. No excessive heat.

I think people trick themselves into seeing problems.

If you have unlimited time on your hands and want to make yourself crazy, I have found the perfect solution.

Pick a picture mode and adjust the settings visually. I can be very picky after developing photographs for years, from darkrooms to LCD monitors and Photoshop.

I usually start with actors' complexions, then work out into details which contribute to the backgrounds surrounding the actors.

Here's what happens..

On a rare occasion. i will think i got it as close to perfect as possible.

The next day, I will wonder WTH I was i thinking.

The important thing is that time has passed.

Many times, I have just thrown in the towel because I just can't get everything right. I'll try again tomorrow.

The next day, I'll turn it on to watch something and go "Wow! That looks great!"

I think if you spend a continuous hour or two fidgeting with the settings, you can lose complete perspective of the PQ as a whole for normal viewing.

You need a break to get your eyes and brain back into synch, so you can see the forest, and not make yourself crazy over a little tree or two.
post #6209 of 9976
I think I'll set it to dim and watch TV when I get it next week. Maybe I Zoom in if I see the black bars on the top and bottom. I'll post pics of my set up when I get it.
post #6210 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by worx54 View Post

I tried using some of the custom mode settings on the pdf chart. Colors and blacks look fine, but I noticed when there is a fully white screen the whites seem to have a yellow tint to them. Is it suppose to look yellow? Or would it be considered an 'accurate' white?

Try "normal" color temperature.
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