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Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 209

post #6241 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorSignal View Post

Hi again, thanks for your explaination,
The setting on your sigature for the 54".. are they meant to be for a fairly dark room?

No, they are what I can all purpose. I dont believe in night and day settings.

I use them all day long and all night long.

The only excpetion would be THX as those should be used in a dark room.

I recommend Standard as that is what I use. But I did calibtrate Standard,Custom, and THX.
post #6242 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemax View Post

Take some deep breaths and breath slowly. (kidding)

Here's my theory (i have no empirical evidence to support it, besides my TV broke in great)... I have over 200 hrs on my G10, with 120 of them using D-Nice's color slides at the Vivid mode/settings.

The 120 hr slide break-in is to uniformly "season" the cells/pixels. A calibrator doesn't want to do their precision adjustments, then have them thrown off later as the set further breaks in. For their own reasons, they must see a TV broken in with slides for 120 hrs, as a stable, workable product.

I am not a fan of heat stressing electronic equipment, unless you want to test its components' short-term durability. With those slides running, my 50G10 draws almost twice the current, than normal operation. And it gets HOT. So this was the break-in schedule....

4-5 hours per day with the slides and Vivid, and a couple hours per day of normal viewing (it's a bedroom TV), just keeping the contrast down around or below 50 for normal viewing. After the first 5 days, I cooked it twice with the slides/Vivid for 12+ hrs straight (it was a weekend, so I was around, and could check it periodically). Since nothing detonated, I then resumed the normal daily regimen. It's just an opinion or superstition, but I don't think baking the TV for 120 hrs in 5 or 6 days is a good idea. That's trauma, not break-in.

The outcome of this is a mature system in a relatively short period of time. Ideal if you want it calibrated ASAP from the date you bought it. If calibration is something you may want "someday", or don't plan it, there is no reason to not just watch your regular programming. In that case, it may take a little longer for the display to come up to an even, optimum performance, But so what.

So that's break-in. Now for image retention.

I had minor issues with this, because I never read instruction manuals. I don't game, but I would consider that the highest risk for IR. You get playing, and lose track of time. Although I do have a habit of putting on financial news and getting occupied elsewhere. Bloomberg has the ticker at the bottom, and runs commercials with an SD screen and sidebars. I got faint sidelines and a slight "dirty" central screen and bottom at one point.

But here's the thing. Just like the TV is more susceptible to IR in its first hours, the scrolling bars are more effective during that period, also. IMHO, the way that Panasonic implements the bars is insufficient to maximize their effectiveness. They move too quickly, and only for 15 minutes. Then throws you back to viewing program.

To do an effective scrubbing, they should run for at least an hour (and it would be nice if it just turned the TV off at the end. That way you could start it before bed, and not worry about returning to turn the TV off) My answer to this design "weakness" is that i run it 4 or 5 times consecutively when out of synch areas appear. It's a drag, but that's a design issue to be taken up with Panny. My main point being that some accidental IR is not a life sentence, it is recoverable. And another point being that during scrolling, you may clearly see "dirty" areas and small frame lines long after you have had the TV. Don't freak, they are part of doing business with a plasma HDTV, they will have absolutely zero discernible effect on your viewing material

So:

-If you aren't in a hurry to break-in the TV, you can just watch regular programing. Keep the contrast at 50, (and you may learn that a TV with a wide native contrast, doesn't need the contrast jacked, anyway. Fundamentally, contrast is mostly a level gain for whites.) And keep the picture spread wide without bars. With average TV watching, this might be an inconvenience for what?, a few weeks?

- Should the set be touchy, and you get some IR. Scrub it off. They clean-up real nice.

-I don't doubt that some people take the TV home and nuke it in Vivid or game for 22 hours straight. Odds are, if they didn't care to know to care for it in the first place, they don't really care or even notice the consequences.

-Don't fret yourself. Since i started with audio equipment 40 yrs ago, a/v equipment with better than common performance (particularly at a tremendous value price), historically needs just a bit of thoughtfulness on the part of the owner to realize its optimal performance. Most everything has trade-offs. Those which don't, cost an arm and a leg.

- Enjoy your set. It has to have the best bucks to PQ ratio in this year's design generation.

My set at the end of 150 24/7 with 50 contrast settings wasnt warm enough to melt an ice cube faster than sitting it on the table. Well maybe a little faster but it was almost room temperature.

With my standard settings even running up to 17hrs a day which mine sometimes does. it is hardly warmer than room temperature. Hardly trauma or abuse.
post #6243 of 9976
I just got my 54G10 on Saturday. I was playing around with the picture settings last night based on recommendations in this thread. Everything looks pretty good so far, but one issue I noticed last night was that I thought the vertical alignment was off, now I'm thinking it might be an AR coating issue. When the screen is off, there is about a 1/4" black line at the top that is not reflective. When I put the TV on, picture will go into that area, but I'll get interference in that area, which I assume is normal with cable tv viewing. I notice it on HD size 1 and 2. Is this an AR coating issue, cable issue, or TV issue.

Thank you.
post #6244 of 9976
Thanks charliemax for sharing your experience. I am replacing my living room Panasonic CRT which worked very well for 9 years. In the last 18 months though fuse blew up couple of times. I bought a fuse for 2$ at radio shack and replaced it. It was working for the last 12 months without any issues. So i decided to upgrade. But during the break-in i am going to keep it in my bed room and watch just the widescreen movies with low settings. Whenever i get a chance i will use the break-in DVD during day time.

Probably watching few action flicks would help a lot i suppose . This is my plan of action.
post #6245 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycincy85 View Post

54g10 from Sears.com, best deal right now! man, i'm not quite ready to buy now, but it's only $30 off my budget price that i was planning to spend 5-6 weeks from now. how much lower do you guys think this will go?

My problem with buying from Sears or any other local store - they charge sales tax, which wipes out the savings you might get from a store like OneCall, where the price in the cart is the total price, including free shipping,
post #6246 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflackey View Post

My problem with buying from Sears or any other local store - they charge sales tax, which wipes out the savings you might get from a store like OneCall, where the price in the cart is the total price, including free shipping,

true, but with tax it's still cheaper than any online store. i plan on picking it up.
post #6247 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycincy85 View Post

true, but with tax it's still cheaper than any online store. i plan on picking it up.

That's not entirely true. You may want to check Amazon's price.
post #6248 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRIME1 View Post

That's not entirely true. You may want to check Amazon's price.

you're right, I'm going to hold out for a few more weeks like I planned. I need to finish up the basement first. Hopefully by then, it will be a couple bills cheaper.
post #6249 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycincy85 View Post

true, but with tax it's still cheaper than any online store. i plan on picking it up.

I must be missing something - the prices I'm seeing on, for example, OneCall are cheaper than the prices I'm seeing for the same TV at Sears, even before you add on tax. Is there a code or something I'm missing at the Sears site?
post #6250 of 9976
I also bought through Amazon. 200$ off with qualified blu ray player. It was a good deal. No tax, shipping anything.
post #6251 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by vkarthik View Post

I also bought through Amazon. 200$ off with qualified blu ray player. It was a good deal. No tax, shipping anything.

They also have the best Customer Service of any place I have dealt with when it comes to HDTVs, really top notch, I won't buy from anyone else.
post #6252 of 9976
Look for the free BD60/BD80 promo to run again VERY soon...
post #6253 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflackey View Post

I must be missing something - the prices I'm seeing on, for example, OneCall are cheaper than the prices I'm seeing for the same TV at Sears, even before you add on tax. Is there a code or something I'm missing at the Sears site?

Someone a couple pages back mentioned a coupon code, but I can't get the website to let me enter it. Even with it input, the final price would still be a little more than other sites mentioned recently, not to mention tax and/or shipping.
post #6254 of 9976
Sears was slightly cheaper than amazon for me. Delaware Rocks
post #6255 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycincy85 View Post

you're right, I'm going to hold out for a few more weeks like I planned. I need to finish up the basement first. Hopefully by then, it will be a couple bills cheaper.

As you're waiting, you may want to check Amazon daily. Their prices rise and fall pretty frequently, and you could possibly catch a good deal that may not be there the next day. I bought my 46" g10 from them at an EXCELLENT price and have yet to see that price come back around. Amazon has really great deals (as mentioned by others), delivery service (in my experience), and customer service.
post #6256 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

Sears was slightly cheaper than amazon for me. Delaware Rocks

I wish we didn't have sales tax here.
post #6257 of 9976
SerialMike.. so setting my HDMI1 to game LABEL (not game mode) reduce phosphor trail and increase response time?
It doesn't decrease the life of component or anything right?

my input for game and movies are the same one... but I guess if it help the movies too I will try this.
post #6258 of 9976
Another question to owners. Do you experience motion sickness while watching fast moving images? I am highly susceptible to it. One of the reason why i never play games with fast movements.
post #6259 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorSignal View Post

SerialMike.. so setting my HDMI1 to game LABEL (not game mode) reduce phosphor trail and increase response time?
It doesn't decrease the life of component or anything right?

my input for game and movies are the same one... but I guess if it help the movies too I will try this.

It should reduce trails if you see em because the phosphers have faster response time in this mode. I cant say for sure but I do not see any reason why it would shorten life.
post #6260 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by vkarthik View Post

Another question to owners. Do you experience motion sickness while watching fast moving images? I am highly susceptible to it. One of the reason why i never play games with fast movements.

No problem.. it looks great although this might not have to do with the TV. I am pretty sensitive, I get nausious watching cloverflied on my 26".
post #6261 of 9976
For those of you worried to the point of obsession with burn-in, image retention and break-in periods, relax a bit and use some common sense. This board is a great resource, but a guy can get carried away with these issues.

Several months ago I purchased a Panny G15 46" after two years of shopping. By spending a lot of time on this forum, I became so worried about these issues that I was about in a frenzy by the time I got the TV.

One look at the beautiful image, and well...I kinda forgot about my frenzy. We watched Blu-Ray movies with black bars on top and bottom at whatever picture setting made it look the best, we watched 4:3 content with black bars on the sides and we watched a lot of HD channels with fixed logos on the screen. There was never an issue with burn-in or image retention or any other worries that I initally had.

What we did do is use a little common sense. For 3 weeks, I set the Standard picture settings all to 50 or lower and used that setting to run a 24 hour commercial free slideshow HD "Frames" channel at night and when the TV was not being watched. If we watched a Blu-Ray, we'd take a break for a little while to watch full screen content before watching another one at our "optimum" picture settings. Honestly, that's all we did and the picture is just as great or better than it ever was.

And if I did shorten the life span of my TV, even up to the point of taking a few thousand hours off its life, we'd still have to watch it years beyond the next "must have" TV technology that comes along that means an upgrade anyway. :-)
post #6262 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflackey View Post

I must be missing something - the prices I'm seeing on, for example, OneCall are cheaper than the prices I'm seeing for the same TV at Sears, even before you add on tax. Is there a code or something I'm missing at the Sears site?

Also don't forget to use Bing to get you to the Sears (or any other qualifying) site. I am scheduled to get 16% back from my G10 purchase, although it's officially at 2% right now. If you watch it it will jump around, just like Amazon's price.
post #6263 of 9976
I would get a TV at us-appliance.com. I just purchased a 50" G15 for $1289 plus free shipping and a free Panasonic 60K blu ray player.
post #6264 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaitrancer View Post

For those of you worried to the point of obsession with burn-in, image retention and break-in periods, relax a bit and use some common sense. This board is a great resource, but a guy can get carried away with these issues.

Several months ago I purchased a Panny G15 46" after two years of shopping. By spending a lot of time on this forum, I became so worried about these issues that I was about in a frenzy by the time I got the TV.

One look at the beautiful image, and well...I kinda forgot about my frenzy. We watched Blu-Ray movies with black bars on top and bottom at whatever picture setting made it look the best, we watched 4:3 content with black bars on the sides and we watched a lot of HD channels with fixed logos on the screen. There was never an issue with burn-in or image retention or any other worries that I initally had.

What we did do is use a little common sense. For 3 weeks, I set the Standard picture settings all to 50 or lower and used that setting to run a 24 hour commercial free slideshow HD "Frames" channel at night and when the TV was not being watched. If we watched a Blu-Ray, we'd take a break for a little while to watch full screen content before watching another one at our "optimum" picture settings. Honestly, that's all we did and the picture is just as great or better than it ever was.

And if I did shorten the life span of my TV, even up to the point of taking a few thousand hours off its life, we'd still have to watch it years beyond the next "must have" TV technology that comes along that means an upgrade anyway. :-)

Well said! +++++
post #6265 of 9976
Another quick question from a newbie. My 24p direct in setting is grayed out. Am I unable to change to 48hz with the PS3 as my blu ray player?
post #6266 of 9976
Make sure the PS3 is set to output BD video at 24p, otherwise I don't think you can change the option on the tv.
post #6267 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

It should reduce trails if you see em because the phosphers have faster response time in this mode. I cant say for sure but I do not see any reason why it would shorten life.

Do you have some objective evidence to support your Game label theory? You must you admit that this is a really, really goofy way to design a product. If, as you assert, they assign technical performance characteristics to once-used labels instead of modes, they've created a huge mess for the engineers and the user. Does the TV remember ad infinitum that you once assigned a certain input the label "Game"?

To me this theory makes absolutely no sense. Have you measured any of these supposed changes?
post #6268 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimasterchad View Post

Make sure the PS3 is set to output BD video at 24p, otherwise I don't think you can change the option on the tv.

Ya, I did that and still the option is still greyed out. Anyone get it to change with PS3?
post #6269 of 9976
Hello all,I haven't posted here in a while due to receiving a new panel.I had a "A Board" and "Panel" replaced,and I wanted to wait after my new set was broken in before posting my impressions.I have one MAJOR issue with my 42g10,and this question has NEVER been answered by pro's or amatuer's.My first set was purchased in late April,but during sometime in July I noticed my "blacks"(which were once dark gray)are now light gray.I'm talking "LCD gray",just with a perfect uniform screen due to being a plasma.What I've noticed is that I had around 700+ hours on my first set,but I entered the service menu at about 400ish to punch in Orta's offsets.When I turned back on the tv is when I noticed the blacks(or dark greys)are now light gray.This is NOT due to Orta's offsets though,is it the tv's fault or the users?Now when I received my second set back in late September,I waited for nightfall to come so I could see if my "dark grays" were back.Sure enough they were,I guess because my panel was replaced(due to dead pixels).My second set now has 300+ hours on it and guess what happened?My dark grays are now light gray.Here is the big question:Is there a "right" way to exit the Service Menu?I wonder if the rise in blacks is due to exiting the wrong way,or if after x amount of hours the black levels change?Because when the tech hooked up my new set he immediately entered the SM to check for dead pixels on the color slides(found in the red screen in SM)then he exited.But the set still retained its black level.I bought this set mainly for its deep blacks but now it just looks like a uniform lcd,can the pros chime in for some help please?
post #6270 of 9976
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmafan09 View Post

Hello all,I haven't posted here in a while due to receiving a new panel.I had a "A Board" and "Panel" replaced,and I wanted to wait after my new set was broken in before posting my impressions.I have one MAJOR issue with my 42g10,and this question has NEVER been answered by pro's or amatuer's.My first set was purchased in late April,but during sometime in July I noticed my "blacks"(which were once dark gray)are now light gray.I'm talking "LCD gray",just with a perfect uniform screen due to being a plasma.What I've noticed is that I had around 700+ hours on my first set,but I entered the service menu at about 400ish to punch in Orta's offsets.When I turned back on the tv is when I noticed the blacks(or dark greys)are now light gray.This is NOT due to Orta's offsets though,is it the tv's fault or the users?Now when I received my second set back in late September,I waited for nightfall to come so I could see if my "dark grays" were back.Sure enough they were,I guess because my panel was replaced(due to dead pixels).My second set now has 300+ hours on it and guess what happened?My dark grays are now light gray.Here is the big question:Is there a "right" way to exit the Service Menu?I wonder if the rise in blacks is due to exiting the wrong way,or if after x amount of hours the black levels change?Because when the tech hooked up my new set he immediately entered the SM to check for dead pixels on the color slides(found in the red screen in SM)then he exited.But the set still retained its black level.I bought this set mainly for its deep blacks but now it just looks like a uniform lcd,can the pros chime in for some help please?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1167339
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