AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread
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Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 331

post #9901 of 9976
7/12/11 at 7:07am
Hello all!

I believe we experienced a power surge at my house and now it seems like one of the HDMI ports that was active at the time of the surge isn't working....


It was connected to a cable DVR at the time of the surge, and all the components were connected to a surge protector. However now when a device is connected to the HDMI-1 port there is no picture.

To me it seems like the port is fried...

Is there any chance of a fix for this? Can I do a factory reset?
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post #9902 of 9976
7/15/11 at 9:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissmo View Post

Hello all!

I believe we experienced a power surge at my house and now it seems like one of the HDMI ports that was active at the time of the surge isn't working....


It was connected to a cable DVR at the time of the surge, and all the components were connected to a surge protector. However now when a device is connected to the HDMI-1 port there is no picture.

To me it seems like the port is fried...

Is there any chance of a fix for this? Can I do a factory reset?

Have you tried to unplug the unit for maybe 10 mins or more and pluggin it back.
if that wont fix it, i think there is a reset option in the menu
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post #9903 of 9976
7/20/11 at 7:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmusika View Post

Have you tried to unplug the unit for maybe 10 mins or more and pluggin it back.
if that wont fix it, i think there is a reset option in the menu

Would that actually work to fix a non functioning HDMI port?
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post #9904 of 9976
7/22/11 at 7:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdolen View Post

I wish I felt that way about my G10. I made the mistake of looking into new TVs and am now pretty unhappy with my risen black levels. I've seen edge lit LCDs that look better. Can't justify a new TV though.

Sorry to hear that. Whether or not my blacks have risen, I don't know. I simply can't perceive that it has, if it has. Love this TV!
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post #9905 of 9976
7/28/11 at 11:03am
This is an issue which I've just coped with for a while, but thought I'd seek advice...

When watching movies on this TV on my PS3 which are 2.35:1 and letterboxed, I find that I get a noticeable amount of image retention in those black bars. If I pause a movie even for a minute, with the pause icon sitting in the corner on the black bar, when I resume the movie, I can still see a faint glow of the pause icon in that corner. This is most noticeable in a dark room, and it'll go away after 10 minutes or so, or if I run the scrolling bar for about a minute.

If the movie is a blu-ray with one of those dumb animated progress bars which pops up and stays on screen while paused, then that whole bar leaves a shadow on the lower bar. And if I start up the PS3 and leave it on the home screen for a while, with the bright icons on a dark background, then I can see IR from them once I start a letterbox movie.

It's not a huge deal, but I often find myself turning off the TV if I'm gonna pause a letterboxed movie for more than a minute, which gets annoying. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? I'm wondering if changing the pixel orbiter from automatic to periodic-1 will help, but I'm doubtful, since we're just talking about a black bar where no image is normally being displayed anyway.

Edit: Some further searching in the forums seems to indicate this may not be IR but rather "phosphorescence" or "residual charge", which other people see when switching to a blank screen after a static image, and is normal and unavoidable. Does that sound right?
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post #9906 of 9976
7/29/11 at 10:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdude View Post

This is an issue which I've just coped with for a while, but thought I'd seek advice...

When watching movies on this TV on my PS3 which are 2.35:1 and letterboxed, I find that I get a noticeable amount of image retention in those black bars. If I pause a movie even for a minute, with the pause icon sitting in the corner on the black bar, when I resume the movie, I can still see a faint glow of the pause icon in that corner. This is most noticeable in a dark room, and it'll go away after 10 minutes or so, or if I run the scrolling bar for about a minute.

If the movie is a blu-ray with one of those dumb animated progress bars which pops up and stays on screen while paused, then that whole bar leaves a shadow on the lower bar. And if I start up the PS3 and leave it on the home screen for a while, with the bright icons on a dark background, then I can see IR from them once I start a letterbox movie.

It's not a huge deal, but I often find myself turning off the TV if I'm gonna pause a letterboxed movie for more than a minute, which gets annoying. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? I'm wondering if changing the pixel orbiter from automatic to periodic-1 will help, but I'm doubtful, since we're just talking about a black bar where no image is normally being displayed anyway.

Edit: Some further searching in the forums seems to indicate this may not be IR but rather "phosphorescence" or "residual charge", which other people see when switching to a blank screen after a static image, and is normal and unavoidable. Does that sound right?

How long have you owned your set? I remember this bothered me a bit the first month or so I owned my G10, but soon after it started to become unnoticeable, and now its to the point I don't believe it even happens anymore (though I'm not sure how much of a factor the rising black levels play in this). I can't speak for everyone, and it could be my imagination, but I believe after a set is fully broken in this becomes a non-issue.

For the time being if it bothers you, rather than powering off the set when you pause the video, just switch to another input.
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post #9907 of 9976
7/31/11 at 11:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdude View Post
This is an issue which I've just coped with for a while, but thought I'd seek advice...

When watching movies on this TV on my PS3 which are 2.35:1 and letterboxed, I find that I get a noticeable amount of image retention in those black bars. If I pause a movie even for a minute, with the pause icon sitting in the corner on the black bar, when I resume the movie, I can still see a faint glow of the pause icon in that corner. This is most noticeable in a dark room, and it'll go away after 10 minutes or so, or if I run the scrolling bar for about a minute.

If the movie is a blu-ray with one of those dumb animated progress bars which pops up and stays on screen while paused, then that whole bar leaves a shadow on the lower bar. And if I start up the PS3 and leave it on the home screen for a while, with the bright icons on a dark background, then I can see IR from them once I start a letterbox movie.

It's not a huge deal, but I often find myself turning off the TV if I'm gonna pause a letterboxed movie for more than a minute, which gets annoying. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? I'm wondering if changing the pixel orbiter from automatic to periodic-1 will help, but I'm doubtful, since we're just talking about a black bar where no image is normally being displayed anyway.

Edit: Some further searching in the forums seems to indicate this may not be IR but rather "phosphorescence" or "residual charge", which other people see when switching to a blank screen after a static image, and is normal and unavoidable. Does that sound right?
what i do is run the scrolling bars for the longest time it will run ( i think about 10 mins?? but I could be wrong), and that for me, somehow, removes some of the image retension that occurs not so very often,
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post #9908 of 9976
8/1/11 at 12:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meteor|WAR View Post

How long have you owned your set? I remember this bothered me a bit the first month or so I owned my G10, but soon after it started to become unnoticeable, and now its to the point I don't believe it even happens anymore (though I'm not sure how much of a factor the rising black levels play in this). I can't speak for everyone, and it could be my imagination, but I believe after a set is fully broken in this becomes a non-issue.

For the time being if it bothers you, rather than powering off the set when you pause the video, just switch to another input.

I've owned it for almost 2 years now, and I think it's pretty much always done this. I didn't do any special break-in slides, but this is really the worst of any kind of burn-in/image retention/whatever I've seen. It occurs in a small enough subset of viewing experiences that it's not terribly problemmatic. I'm mostly surprised that it hasn't really been mentioned before, since I figured it'd be somewhat common for watching letterboxed movies on plasma, and the fact that I have to pay attention to whether I pause it for even a minute is just annoying enough. But now that I've found the official burn-in/IR thread, perhaps I'll pursue these questions over there...
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post #9909 of 9976
8/4/11 at 9:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdude View Post
I've owned it for almost 2 years now, and I think it's pretty much always done this. I didn't do any special break-in slides, but this is really the worst of any kind of burn-in/image retention/whatever I've seen. It occurs in a small enough subset of viewing experiences that it's not terribly problemmatic. I'm mostly surprised that it hasn't really been mentioned before, since I figured it'd be somewhat common for watching letterboxed movies on plasma, and the fact that I have to pay attention to whether I pause it for even a minute is just annoying enough. But now that I've found the official burn-in/IR thread, perhaps I'll pursue these questions over there...
Oh it certainly has been mentioned before, and at great length.

If it goes away after a few minutes when you switch to a full screen video signal then its just IR, and totally harmless. Try your best to ignore it.
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post #9910 of 9976
8/19/11 at 6:59am
Curiosity in the form of a few questions-

has anyone had their display calibrated LONG after all the MLL rises have taken place?

if so, has anyone collected these settings to give a good "generic" group of recommended settings for folks who want better-than-out-of-box but less-than-professionally-calibrated performance?

I recall over the years seeing all sorts of different peoples' settings. What I don't recall is seeing any of them who specifically had their calibrations done long after the set "stabilized."

Any pointers in the right direction would be appreciated.
..dane
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post #9911 of 9976
9/9/11 at 2:44pm
Friends ... I'm thinking on buying a soundbar for my P46G10E.

One option is the new Panasonic SC-HTB520, but I have one big question/doubt!
The G10 has not got HDMI 1.4 (to use the ARC connection/protocol), so I will have to connect the soundbar to the P46G10E using an optical cable.

My question is:

- will the sound be ok ?

I ask this because I read that the G10's through the optical cable only passes 5.1 sound for the TV signal source (cable/antena), and the other things conected to the TV via the HDMI sockets (in my case one PS3 and one Asus O!Play media player) will only pass stereo via the optical cable!!

Is this true ?
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post #9912 of 9976
9/10/11 at 1:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvidia View Post

Friends ... I'm thinking on buying a soundbar for my P46G10E.

One option is the new Panasonic SC-HTB520, but I have one big question/doubt!
The G10 has not got HDMI 1.4 (to use the ARC connection/protocol), so I will have to connect the soundbar to the P46G10E using an optical cable.

My question is:

- will the sound be ok ?

I ask this because I read that the G10's through the optical cable only passes 5.1 sound for the TV signal source (cable/antena), and the other things conected to the TV via the HDMI sockets (in my case one PS3 and one Asus O!Play media player) will only pass stereo via the optical cable!!

Is this true ?

You are correct, 5.1 from internal tuner, 2.0/4.0 from optical. The 4.0 is Pro Logic which needs a decoder. My old and new AVR decodes 4.0, so you get LCR and mono rear channels, not sure about soundbars though.
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post #9913 of 9976
9/12/11 at 10:38am
I know this betrays my lack of understanding, but do I need a bridge if I want to set up Viera Cast on my TC-P42G10 with FIOS? I mean...presumably all of my content is coming through the router already

They're in separate rooms, but I have an old Linksys with DD-WRT that I can set up as a bridge if necessary. Assuming I can figure out where to plug it in and whatnot. My hope is that the TV will automatically detect the correct network settings at that point.
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post #9914 of 9976
11/7/11 at 8:40am
Last week my P50G10, manufactured November 2009 bought December 2009 from Best Buy, would not turn on. 5 blinks from red power light. Unplugged, plugged back in, pressed power button. Crackle/stink from lower right side of TV. Called Panasonic, they told me to try it unhooked from HDMI and everything else. Same process, another crackle sound, now two blinking lights. On this site, both 5 blinks and 2 blinks indicate problems with the A-Board.

I do not have extended warranty on the TV, really pissed that it could catastrophically fail in less than two years. Asked Panasonic if this was a frequent issue, any special coverage, etc. they said "No". I see a fair amount of this failure reported on these forums.

Geek Squad is coming today, we'll see how that goes. $150 to have them come out. I am generally mechanically inclined but not on TVs. I see the A-Board available from secondary sources for $100 to $130.

If it's too expensive to fix, I will have to get another TV, and will be very unlikely to trust Panasonic again. I'll update when i know more!
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post #9915 of 9976
11/7/11 at 10:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longs View Post

Last week my P50G10, manufactured November 2009 bought December 2009 from Best Buy, would not turn on. 5 blinks from red power light. Unplugged, plugged back in, pressed power button. Crackle/stink from lower right side of TV. Called Panasonic, they told me to try it unhooked from HDMI and everything else. Same process, another crackle sound, now two blinking lights. On this site, both 5 blinks and 2 blinks indicate problems with the A-Board.

I do not have extended warranty on the TV, really pissed that it could catastrophically fail in less than two years. Asked Panasonic if this was a frequent issue, any special coverage, etc. they said "No". I see a fair amount of this failure reported on these forums.

Geek Squad is coming today, we'll see how that goes. $150 to have them come out. I am generally mechanically inclined but not on TVs. I see the A-Board available from secondary sources for $100 to $130.

If it's too expensive to fix, I will have to get another TV, and will be very unlikely to trust Panasonic again. I'll update when i know more!

I will tell you that I bought my G10 Jan of 2010. On June 8th, 2011 my tv failed. It would power on and light up but no picture or menu. I did not get the blinking red light though. Luckily, I purchased an extended warranty as they covered everything. It was the A board. Tech cam to house and changed it out. It is a fairly simple process as it is just a small circuit board that has two connection ribbons and a few screws. Now after about three weeks it failed again with the exact same issue. Tech came back as he said board still under warranty and put another A Board in. It has been fine since. So if you ask me, the A board quality control is certainly an issue.
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post #9916 of 9976
11/13/11 at 7:00am
When I hook up my laptop via vga, I'm unable to get 1:1 pixel mapping.

1024x768 displays the whole screen but it's stretched.
1280x768 will result in the right edge of screen getting cropped (overscan).
My video card doesn't support 1366x768. My laptop doesn't have hdmi or dvi.

So is there any way to get the full screen via vga without stretching?

What about using a vga to component adapter?
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post #9917 of 9976
11/13/11 at 7:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by the1percent View Post


I will tell you that I bought my G10 Jan of 2010. On June 8th, 2011 my tv failed. It would power on and light up but no picture or menu. I did not get the blinking red light though. Luckily, I purchased an extended warranty as they covered everything. It was the A board. Tech cam to house and changed it out. It is a fairly simple process as it is just a small circuit board that has two connection ribbons and a few screws. Now after about three weeks it failed again with the exact same issue. Tech came back as he said board still under warranty and put another A Board in. It has been fine since. So if you ask me, the A board quality control is certainly an issue.

Longs and 1 per...do either of you have any idea how many hours were on your sets when this happened? I have one but it doesnt get as much use because of where it is in the home. I'm past the 2 years age wise but not in average hours viewed I'm sure.
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post #9918 of 9976
11/16/11 at 7:58am
Allow myself to quote ... myself:

Quote:
Originally Posted by erikstormtrooper View Post

When I hook up my laptop via vga, I'm unable to get 1:1 pixel mapping.

1024x768 displays the whole screen but it's stretched.
1280x768 will result in the right edge of screen getting cropped (overscan).
My video card doesn't support 1366x768. My laptop doesn't have hdmi or dvi.

So is there any way to get the full screen via vga without stretching?

What about using a vga to component adapter?

So I played around with this problem some more. What I'm seeing is that I can't seem to get any 16:9 image to the TV. All resolutions are limited to 4:3.

The only aspect options the Panny is giving me on the PC input (aka, VGA) are 4:3 and Full. If I set the resolution to 1024x768 and the aspect to 4:3, I get a 1:1 pixelmapped image, but it's of course only 4:3.

If I try 1280x768 at 4:3, the right side of the screen gets cropped beyond the 4:3 ratio. When I switch the aspect to Full, it just stretches the same thing it gave me at 4:3. It seems like 1290x768 would be acceptable if I could just get the TV to realize this is a 16:9 image.

I wonder if my laptop (Dell Inspiron e1405) is only sending a 4:3 signal via VGA for some reason.

Can anybody offer assistance?
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post #9919 of 9976
11/18/11 at 11:15am
Erik,
Try downloading Powerstrip. I was able to use this software for an older laptop of mine to make it compatible with 1366x768 resolution.

http://download.cnet.com/PowerStrip/...3_4-14972.html

Mike
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post #9920 of 9976
11/18/11 at 11:43am
Thanks for the tip. Do you know if the trial version is crippled in any way?
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post #9921 of 9976
11/19/11 at 7:08am
I tried to use Powerstrip, but it doesn't seem to work with Intel chipsets like mine.

I was able to get another Dell laptop to connect properly to my tv via VGA, so I think the problem is on my laptop's end.
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post #9922 of 9976
12/2/11 at 9:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikstormtrooper View Post

I tried to use Powerstrip, but it doesn't seem to work with Intel chipsets like mine.

I was able to get another Dell laptop to connect properly to my tv via VGA, so I think the problem is on my laptop's end.

try this man
http://komku.blogspot.com/2009/10/ho...esolution.html
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post #9923 of 9976
12/2/11 at 9:50pm
I'm attempting 1:1 now, that's why i'm here searching around. ganna try the powerstrip now, thanks.

TC-P54G10, hdmi, ati, win7.


**edit.
nm, got it. no 3rd party software needed.
set tv to DVD size 2, tell ati software to scale all the way up to "0" (zoom in).
done.
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post #9924 of 9976
12/8/11 at 7:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramsinks View Post

try this man
http://komku.blogspot.com/2009/10/ho...esolution.html

Thanks for the suggestion. Did you try this?

I started but didn't get too far. I spent about 3 hours messing around with DTD Calculator to no avail. But I need to give it a more concerted try.

Part of my problem is that my laptop is detecting the TV as a generic plug and play monitor, which assigns a max resolution of 1024x768. I think what I really need to do is adjust my chipset's 1280x768 resolution, but haven't figured that out yet.
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post #9925 of 9976
12/13/11 at 11:34pm
My TC-P54G10, July 2009 build, purchased on 12/23/2009. Total hours 7504. I had a service tech from Sears out today for it's yearly check up. Everything is fine. Good for another year.
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post #9926 of 9976
2/9/12 at 1:50pm
I have had my Panasonic TC-P42G10 since 2009. Just curious if anyone has noticed any decrease in black levels? I don't notice any but then again I don't have a trained eye for that lol. The black still looks vibrant like it did when I got the tv. I think lol
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post #9927 of 9976
2/9/12 at 3:22pm
Seems the same. You can always make adjusts to allow for it if you decide but it sounds like your at a good place with your TV. I have noticed a little more with retention (when navigating through something like VuDu or Boxee Box as many things are static) that I used to. But it seems to clear up pretty quickly when I move onto something else. I've toyed around with that function that is supposed to remove retention. Not sure if it works all that work or helps much. But for me I'm happy with my TC-P42S10 that I bought about mid 2009.
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post #9928 of 9976
2/10/12 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1521 View Post

I have had my Panasonic TC-P42G10 since 2009. Just curious if anyone has noticed any decrease in black levels? I don't notice any but then again I don't have a trained eye for that lol. The black still looks vibrant like it did when I got the tv. I think lol

I bought my TC-P42G10 in October 2009. I have noticed an increase in black level, enough to irk me somewhat. I'm considering bringing a calibrator in to see if the black level can be reduced.

The picture still looks really good, it just isn't as dark as it should be when I'm watching movies at night.
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post #9929 of 9976
2/10/12 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1521 View Post

I have had my Panasonic TC-P42G10 since 2009. Just curious if anyone has noticed any decrease in black levels? I don't notice any but then again I don't have a trained eye for that lol. The black still looks vibrant like it did when I got the tv. I think lol

Mine still looks great but it's in an area that I don't use it much so im sure it doesn't have as Many hours on it as most others do.
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post #9930 of 9976
2/13/12 at 10:19am
I use mine a lot and have had it since May 2009. Picture still looks amazing! By far the best TV I've ever had. When the time comes, I'll get myself another Panasonic down the road. I have not noticed an increased black level at all and I'm pretty obsessed with picture quality. I hope it lasts me another 2-3 years!
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Panasonic TC-P42G10, TC-P46G10, TC-P50G10, and TC-P54G10 Owner's Discussion Thread