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The Official Panasonic 12G Settings/Issues Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 4414
all in all honesty logan, its real easy, 1 n 2 as up and down and 3 n 4 for sub menu change.... and then just plus the amoutn or minus it... takes away the green push 95%
post #152 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Recommended 120 Hour Break-In settings for all 12G Panasonic models (ONLY to be used with Evangelo2's Break-in DVD or Thumbdrive Files!!!!!!!!)[/b][/size]

*****Note: This procedure is designed to ensure the reference settings listed below provide maximum satisfaction. This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used solely as Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention.*****

Picture:
Picture Mode: Vivid
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 55
Color: 65
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Color Temp: Cool
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Advance Options
MPEG NR: Off
Black Level: Light[/color]

Q about break-in: D-nice seems to do, so for peace of mind I decided to do it too. However, the Evangelo2's Break-in DVD is 16:9 and thus leaves black bars at top & btm.

Would this not cause these areas to be left out ? When watching non 16:9 content (think SD) I don't get these bars, so the areas could get burn-in ?
post #153 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidordinary View Post

all in all honesty logan, its real easy, 1 n 2 as up and down and 3 n 4 for sub menu change.... and then just plus the amoutn or minus it... takes away the green push 95%

Did you use D-Nice's break-in dvd for 120 hrs. before the changes?
post #154 of 4414
i used sd card slides for bout 60 hours
post #155 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidordinary View Post

i used sd card slides for bout 60 hours

I know D-Nice used the dvd ,and his settings are based on that but do you think it would still help my set if I applied these settings after normal viewing ?

As I am writing this I realize that you can't tell me this with any certainty

I had a guy come from Sears (independent contractor )to set everything up (free set up with TV purchase) and he said he would calibrate it for $99.00 where as Geek squad charges $250.00. Is this how they calibrate? ( getting into the set as D-Nice shows )
post #156 of 4414
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by otherda View Post

Q about break-in: D-nice seems to do, so for peace of mind I decided to do it too. However, the Evangelo2's Break-in DVD is 16:9 and thus leaves black bars at top & btm.

Would this not cause these areas to be left out ? When watching non 16:9 content (think SD) I don't get these bars, so the areas could get burn-in ?

The DVD is actually 1.78:1... the exact ratio as your display. If you see black bars on the top and bottom, your DVD player is not setup properly.
post #157 of 4414
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky logan View Post

I had a guy come from Sears (independent contractor )to set everything up (free set up with TV purchase) and he said he would calibrate it for $99.00 where as Geek squad charges $250.00. Is this how they calibrate? ( getting into the set as D-Nice shows )

Calibrate it with what?
post #158 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by otherda View Post

Q about break-in: D-nice seems to do, so for peace of mind I decided to do it too. However, the Evangelo2's Break-in DVD is 16:9 and thus leaves black bars at top & btm.

Would this not cause these areas to be left out ? When watching non 16:9 content (think SD) I don't get these bars, so the areas could get burn-in ?

The tv has a slot for an sd card which imo is easier. But if you have no sd card I'm sure you can just hit format on the remote and put it on zoom. So you can get the full screen.
post #159 of 4414
How many of you guys have dead pixels? If so how many? I have 2 dead sub-pixels.
post #160 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Calibrate it with what?

I think he said he would hook it up to a computer.

I apologize since I don't know crap about this stuff.
post #161 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorfunk View Post

How many of you guys have dead pixels? If so how many? I have 2 dead sub-pixels.

I have zero *knock on wood*

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky logan View Post

I think he said he would hook it up to a computer.

I apologize since I don't know crap about this stuff.

I think you first question should be is he ISF certified.

@ D-NICE So are your settings on the first page of this the ones you would have set my tv to if you calibrated it? I assume yes but just wanted to be sure.
post #162 of 4414
I think you first question should be is he ISF certified.

OK, Thanks!
post #163 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

The DVD is actually 1.78:1... the exact ratio as your display. If you see black bars on the top and bottom, your DVD player is not setup properly.

Really ? I'll check when I get home, something must be out of whack then...

Thx D !
post #164 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky logan View Post

I think he said he would hook it up to a computer.

I apologize since I don't know crap about this stuff.

Lucky it is pointless to have the set calibrated once you get it home because the phosphors require a certain amount of time in which they "settle" in. Usually around the 100+ hour mark of the tv being in use. So even if you have it calibrated when it's first turned on, after the set in time, the colors may shift a little making the calibration kind of useless. But after the set in time, it is perfectly fine to have it calibrated
post #165 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiz6151 View Post

Lucky it is pointless to have the set calibrated once you get it home because the phosphors require a certain amount of time in which they "settle" in. Usually around the 100+ hour mark of the tv being in use. So even if you have it calibrated when it's first turned on, after the set in time, the colors may shift a little making the calibration kind of useless. But after the set in time, it is perfectly fine to have it calibrated

Cool! Thanks for the info.

So is what D-Nice did in the SM after break-in considered Calibrating the TV?
post #166 of 4414
Yes.
post #167 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post

Yes.

Thanks! I'm learning a little at a time

At least all the research I did led me to the 50X1 and I am very Happy with it!
post #168 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky logan View Post

So is what D-Nice did in the SM after break-in considered Calibrating the TV?

What D-Nice did was calibrate his TV.

Not anyone else's.

(Your Mileage May Vary.)
post #169 of 4414
lucky, will Sears come back in a few months to calibrate it for $99? As already mentioned, calibrating it out-of-the-box is a waste of $$ since the settings will change after break-in.
post #170 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeTime View Post

What D-Nice did was calibrate his TV.

Not anyone else's.

(Your Mileage May Vary.)

As stated by D-Nice, these TVs have very little variance. Using the same break-in procedure, his settings should be very close to reference for our TVs. I would trust D-Nice's calibration over a Sears technician's.
post #171 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorfunk View Post

As stated by D-Nice, these TVs have very little variance. Using the same break-in procedure, his settings should be very close to reference for our TVs.

Maybe, maybe not. I'm not sure how anyone is yet in a position to claim "very little variance" among production samples of a new, entry-level model.

It might be interesting to hear what the calibrator community has to say about this open-loop approach to calibration en masse.
Quote:
I would trust D-Nice's calibration over a Sears technician's.

Maybe, but D-Nice isn't coming to your house to calibrate your set -- some other technician is.

It's not clear why one should perform a certain break-in regimen before dialing in a set of Service Menu compensations that are independent of that particular specimen. It's not as if you carefully aged your display, measured it and made corrections. This method dictates that you apply these offsets regardless of how your display might be reacting to any preparation.
post #172 of 4414
So there is no global grey scale like with the 5020. So in order to use all of the available modes, I assume we need calibration numbers for each one. I just would not want to be tied to one mode. Would all the modes benefit from a similar tweak? Do they all suffer from the same green push?
post #173 of 4414
prime,
what he has adjusted does drastically remove the green push tho. so there's always that
post #174 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillP View Post

lucky, will Sears come back in a few months to calibrate it for $99? As already mentioned, calibrating it out-of-the-box is a waste of $$ since the settings will change after break-in.

Yes, I guess he is an independent contractor that does work for Sears.

His card says HD Connect,LLC - Audio and Video Specialists (onehdconnect@yahoo.com)
post #175 of 4414
(It's not clear why one should perform a certain break-in regimen before dialing in a set of Service Menu compensations that are independent of that particular specimen. It's not as if you carefully aged your display, measured it and made corrections. This method dictates that you apply these offsets regardless of how your display might be reacting to any preparation.[/quote]

This guy never said anything about the break-in period but he did say he would hook it up to a computer ( I am guessing it is a calibration tool like D-Nice would use ) I don't know for sure though so don't quote me on that

Opps that quote was from primetime
post #176 of 4414
Hey D-Nice, Thank you for sharing your expertise. I have been running the pictures for break-in that you recommended on my new 50" and some of the colors (green, grey) show a very mild narrow horizontal banding while others don't. Is this normal? Thanks!
post #177 of 4414
I think all this discussion about Sears X D-Nice calibration really silly. D-Nice posted his settings, FOR FREE, you can try and see if you like it or not. No downside. Having a Sears tech to calibrate my set is something I would never do. My local Sears have all the sets linked with a coaxial cable and I guess only Walmart could be worse. I know that the Sears tech is not the person who sets the showroom displays but $99.00 is too cheap and suggests a "Sears quality" calibration. Most good calibrators use very expensive gear and charge over $300. Anyway, you get what you pay for.
post #178 of 4414
First I'd like to thank D-NICE for sharing his settings.

I have been watching my 42px1 for roughly 85 hours in standard mode out of the box and zooming any channels with black bars to make sure I get even break in. I just recently read this thread and set to D-NICE's calib settings and ran the images from an SD card.
I'm about 5 hours in and I'm wondering if there will be any drawback to have already been viewing content before doing this procedure. Also since I've already logged a good bit of hours, should I still run the BI images for 120 hrs?

Thanks.
post #179 of 4414
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeTime View Post

Maybe, maybe not. I'm not sure how anyone is yet in a position to claim "very little variance" among production samples of a new, entry-level model.

It might be interesting to hear what the calibrator community has to say about this open-loop approach to calibration en masse.Maybe, but D-Nice isn't coming to your house to calibrate your set -- some other technician is.

It's not clear why one should perform a certain break-in regimen before dialing in a set of Service Menu compensations that are independent of that particular specimen. It's not as if you carefully aged your display, measured it and made corrections. This method dictates that you apply these offsets regardless of how your display might be reacting to any preparation.

What Panasonic defines as an entry level display has absolutely nothing to do with vairance levels.

As far as differences between sets, I know more about how they are manufactured than anyone else on this forum besides Rysa4. I'm not going to endorse and tag my name to anything that I'm clueless on.

If you want proof of what a break-in procedure can do for a display when it comes to "sharing settings" feel free to visit the ControlCAL forum and look at those who have measured my settings on their displays (Pioneers) and see how close their measurments are to mine when they used the same break-in procedure I did There are also a few members on AVS that have measured my settings on their sets (Pioneers). Member SOWK was the last...I think. Feel free to search for his posts or PM him for verification.

Regarding others in the ISF community....

Most still regard what they/we do as magic and think no one else can do it, so good luck in getting a real answer out of most of them. They will probably say that "Every display is different and requires different settings." However, they fail to tell you that there is more than one way to hit x.3127 y.3290 across the grayscale on one set. So, yes each panel can end up with different settings, BUT they don't always have to have different settings. You would be amazed at how many calibrators use my settings as a starting point and then do one click here and there to get a particular panel to be 100%.

And please remember that my settings are never ment to be substitutes for a full blown calibrating. They will get you close to a full calibration, just not 100%.
post #180 of 4414
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

I think all this discussion about Sears X D-Nice calibration really silly. D-Nice posted his settings, FOR FREE, you can try and see if you like it or not. No downside. Having a Sears tech to calibrate my set is something I would never do. My local Sears have all the sets linked with a coaxial cable and I guess only Walmart could be worse. I know that the Sears tech is not the person who sets the showroom displays but $99.00 is too cheap and suggests a "Sears quality" calibration. Most good calibrators use very expensive gear and charge over $300. Anyway, you get what you pay for.

I apologize for the confusion. I never intended to compare D-Nice with the (Sears Guy) After following these posts I realize that D-Nice is the professional here and I have learned a lot from him (thank you D-nice and all the others here)I just stated what the guy told me

I don't know if I will ever get it calibrated but I know that with all the info I have gotten here I made the right choice with the X1
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