The Official Panasonic 12G Settings/Issues Thread - Page 62

When I calibrated my set the THX mode is actually only outputting 19 FTL - anyone else tested the light output to see what yours is? This is well below the THX standard and I have a hard time believing Panasonic let this get released.

Custom calibrated is 37 FTL output.

Yea, I think there might be a lot of variation in sources, or some people just might prefer a much lower brightness. Through HDMI and a PS3, 64 is the first tic that 17 is visible on the low APL AVS-709 pattern (I'd use this for Blu-Rays). 67 is the first tic the lowest level of near black is visible through RGB sources, such as this pattern (this might be optimal for PS3 games). 64 is the best I've found for Xbox 360 over HDMI, any higher starts to introduce the first tic of dithering/pwm noise to what should be black. Raising or lower the contrast will also affect these numbers as will your console's reference levels (RGB Full/Limited, Standard/Intermediate/Expanded, etc...)


Wow that's low, 19 is what you should be getting for full field whites. You're getting that on a window with contrast capped? Only possible explanation would be if you lowered your DRV's a lot in calibrating it. I think I was getting 31 or 32 fL.

I have just finished my break-in period using Evangelo2's slides. I'm sorry, but I guess I'm getting a little confused when everyone is talking about using Chad's settings, Sadmaker's offsets and Orta's offsets. Is anyone using these on the S1 models?

Please help.

IIRC that's impossible on a fixed pixel display. Is your STB introducing a green or black line along one side of the screen?

My problem is that the actual glass is slightly to the right which means that the black border around the glass in not equal width. Hence, there is a small (2-3mm) gap between the edge of the displayed picture and the black border.

If I applied Ortas settings in the service menu , using a component input (directv-hd), do i need to do this for each input ? For example, my ps3 is hooked up under hdmi 1. Do I have to switch each input and make these changes?

I did not lower the drives that much in calibration. I am not overly concerned as in custom mode the grayscale is near perfect, color scale is dead on. The only issues I really had were that I was only able to get the gamma to a 2.02 and it is pushing blue and cayan a tiny bit high. Picture is awesome though - I just thought it incredibly strange that THX is that low on my set.

ORTA
I have a questions. I also wanted to thank you for helping us with your offsets.
1)Do you think your offsets will work just fine for a 46g10?
2)Do the offsets stay the same for each different input HDMI 1, HDMI 2 etc....?
3)Do the offsets stay the same with warm, cool, normal etc....?
4)In the SM which ones control brightness and contrast?
4) I was hoping you could just tell me if i programmed my offset correctly to your judgement. If you have any recommendations please let me know.
Warm Orignals New
RC= 80 81
GC= 80 80
BC= 80 81
RD= F6 FC (+6)
GD= FC F0 (-12)
BD= B0 B6 (+6)
AC= ADJ Self
AD= FC FC
Thank you very much for all your help.

I forgot one more question sorry.
5) I haven't broke in the screen yet, but i programmed these offsets in. The offsets in the service menu do not change???
Thanks.

Greg, I'm not Orta, but I've been chatting with him in PM. I have a 46G10.

Someone can correct me, but some of the answers:

- your RD GD BD looks like the way to go with those originals - your relative changes are the same +18 as he set, and I had close to the same originals as you.

- You will need to set the offsets for an SD channel and an HD (1080i or p) channel. That will then cover all of your viewing (but I have all of my feeds inputting w/ HDMI.)

- I would use these offsets in the SM, then just use the user controls (outside of the SM) for Contrast and Brightness adjustments,

There are offsets for each color mode, normal, cool and warm. So whatever mode you had it in is the only mode you changed.

okay so I guess I messed up and didnt run the slide with the vivid settings. Ive been running the slides for about 42 hrs. Do I have to redo the whole process or is it fine. Also is okay to run the break in for 120 hours straight or should I give the g10 some rest here and there.

No, When breaking in the TV vivid mode is actually the best. Break-in effects the TV physically so is not mode specific.

When calibrating the TV however, the setting you change only change the specific mode you are in.

You won't get exactly the results that you'd get from D-Nice's (eventual) G10 settings, but the difference should be minor at best. Personally, I'd give the TV some breaks here and there - while the fans are very effective and the temperature of the set never seems to get too out of hand, why push it if you don't have to?

i'm running this on my new g10 50"

is this snake oil? lol

has anyone actually compared a non burned-in set to a standard virgin set?

This.

it's not the burn in that really improves the pic, it's the post burn in calibration.

Burn-in slides is just a way to get everyone's tv pretty much on the same plateau when the offsets are applied.

that's what i meant.

just curious if it's just a matter of time before all sets reach that plateau

anyways - i'm running it now.

thank you

how am i a new member? and your an advanced? lol - i've been here for years.

really sorry to ask such a basic question, but can someone point me to instructions on how to access the offset menus and apply offset settings for an S1? i just finished the break in and would like to apply some of the values being posted here

Because you only have 5 posts and zetram has 578.

My 54" V10 is powerd up and going through the break-in slides per the recommended settings. However I do have one issue, I can see some image retention right out of the box! In the upper left hand corner of the screen I can see text like "factory" "adjust" "options" and some other settings but I can't read what they say. They don't look like any of the menu options I've been through. Maybe something setup at the factory? Should I be concerned? Anyone else notice this? Will it go away as I run the slides? I'm going to keep my eye on it, but I'm wondering if I should call Best Buy and ask for another set?

I can't remember ever seeing anyone post such a thing. Are you sure the TV is brand new? I wonder if someone has been in the Service Menu before you got the TV? Maybe you should check the Hours Used and how many times the TV has been powered up. Can you take pictures of the menus and post em?

I followed the instructions that were posted earlier in this thread to access the Service Menu. The instructions were close, but not exact to navigate to what I needed, but I figured it out. The service menu is definitely the burn in I see.

Time showed: 8:20
Count: 4

I've only had the TV on for two hours and probably turned it off a few times when trying to navigate the service menu. So...it looks like my TV was powerd on previously. I called Panasonic and they had me run the white scrolling bar. The burn in seems to be fading, but I'm still unhappy that it was there from the beginning.

I'm thinking it might be best to call Best Buy for a new TV...

Hey... I notice a half inch black bar horizontally on the top and bottom and about a quarter inch black bar vertically on both sides, when i watch TV and blu rays but not during video games? What is this? I am using hd size 2. It gets a little better if I go to hd size 1 but then i lose some of the picture on the sides. Any suggestions?

JPS...That's normal for Blu Rays and some TV shows....You want it that way with Blu rays, it's the way it's supposed to presented.

Some Blu Rays fills the entire screen, just depends on the aspect ratio..

Your 16:9 wide screen display has an aspect ratio of 1.78:1. The movies that have an aspect ratio of higher than 1.78:1 will have black bars at the top/bottom.

Someone can correct me if I'm giving any false info..

There's a post somewhere on AVS with a comparison shot. Sorry, no link.

I was just about to post the same thing. You'll notice some shows don't have it, and some stations don't have it. It's really nothing to worry about. If it bothers you, use HD Size 1. That's really the only way to ensure you won't see them.

Meh, I broke in my TV today, but then I completely misunderstood the Service Menu values. I thought the negative values were what we suppose to set to and was wondering why I couldn't get there then I re-read and found out we were suppose to go down on the Volume button X amount of times. Naturally, I didn't write down all the original factory setting values so I'm SOL (idiot me). Now the TV has a blue-ish dark tint and I can see faint horizontal lines in the picture. Any ideas on how to correct some of this?

Ah-Ha!! Typical sleazy bastards at Best Buy. I bet they used your TV to train their Geek Squad how to calibrate a TV before repacking it and putting it back in inventory. Sounds like the TV got some serious service menu time during first six hours of the TV's life before you got it. You don't know what the heck went on with it during that first six hours. I'd return that junker immediately and complain to upper management about it. Take pictures of the hours menu and of the screen damage too.

Is there any indication that the TV was repackaged? Did you unpack it and notice things were previously opened or re-taped etc? Or did their people set it up at your house (in which case you wouldn't have seen that the bags had been previously opened)?

It would be helpful if you'd give more information like what your source is when seeing these horizontal black bars, what TV show/program/channel you were watching, etc.

Whatever it is, the issue is being introduced by the source so concentrate of getting that squared away. The TV just displays what you send to it.