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Ian's AV15H pr'd build - Page 3

post #61 of 95
I prefer using the speakons, they lock in. For stereo you can use NL2's. Bridged requires NL4's wired +1 and +2.
post #62 of 95
Any updates on this build?
post #63 of 95
Thread Starter 
I am at work right now so I can't post any pics. My AV15-H came yesterday via ups. I am waiting on my PRs now and am not sure how long the wait is on those but they haven't shipped yet so I am at least a week from getting those. The box is pretty much prepped for painting except drilling out the mounting holes.

My questions. I was planning on using t-nuts for the mounting, but have never used before. Any tips or alternate mounting methods? The inside of my cabinet is bare, should I be stuffing it with pillows, polyfill, rock wool, etc.? The suspense of waiting is killing me, making me want to just mount the driver and fire it up before the PRs come. I know the sound will take a huge hit but otherwise is there a reason not to do this?

pics to come
post #64 of 95
I've had a couple hurricane nuts back out on me, big PITA. On my current build I took a cheap piece of lumber, something like a 2"x2"x4', I cut it into small squares and glued them to the inside of the cabinet for each hurricane nut. I'm hoping the wood creates more bite for the nuts and lessens the chance that they will back out. Unfortunately after I did this I needed longer screws, it never ends :P

Hopefully the more experienced builders here will chime in. I personally would not use t-nuts on bare mdf though.

One tip, if you ever have to remove the driver afterwards, pay close attention to the downward pressure you put on the screws with your drill or screwdriver. One of them backed out on me because I wasn't paying attention and I put too much downward force...doh!
post #65 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilbeaver View Post

I've had a couple hurricane nuts back out on me, big PITA.

I just had this happen on my sealed Mal-X. My baffle is all baltic birch so I didn't think I would have any problems but I still did. So once I got the bolt out, I pulled the driver and put a dab of epoxy on all the hurricane nuts and reinstalled them. No more problems.

This was my first time using hurricane nuts and was not impressed. I have either used T-nuts or threaded inserts in the past. I may be switching back next time.

Regards,

Dennis
post #66 of 95
Currently I'm actually using the barbed nuts PE sells. They seem to be better than the hurricane nuts but its still early.
post #67 of 95
Wood screws!!!!
post #68 of 95
Thread Starter 
So my prs have come in and my buddy came over today with his sprayer and we got our first couple coats of primer on. I am getting really close



LL
LL
LL
post #69 of 95
I was under the impression the AV drivers were logo free...
post #70 of 95
My AV15's are logo free
post #71 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

I was under the impression the AV drivers were logo free...

From other pics they were but I like it
post #72 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

From other pics they were but I like it

I am not a fan of logo's at all. I purposely had them mount my tires on my truck white lettering in. To me, it looks cheap.

I like the look of phase plugs though.
post #73 of 95
Yuch. It almost looks like the crap cap on an eD 19ov2.
post #74 of 95
There really is no similarity between our cone/logo and the eD. They have a cheap Chinese made poly cone that is made to look like aluminum and hot stamped with a black logo. Our cones are hand spun in California from US sourced 5052 aluminum. We then sand them by hand to give a 220grit brushed finish and apply a 2part process to give them a matte finish. The logos are then masked off on the dustcaps and sprayed with a clear gloss finish. What you see for the logo is essentially just the aluminum itself without being dulled down to the matte finish that the rest of the cone has. It is a very subtle effect. In some light it is barely noticeable. In other light it stands out much more. Those who don't want logos can request the woofer to be made without them. If you want your own custom logo you can request that as well. We can also paint cones and dustcaps to any color desired for those who don't want the aluminum finish.

John
post #75 of 95
Thread Starter 
The lighting of the pic makes the logo stick out more than it does in person. The driver looks classy in person and screams build quality. Thank you John for a well made product.
post #76 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_E_Janowitz View Post

If you want your own custom logo you can request that as well.

Really? How much would something like that cost?
post #77 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

I am not a fan of logo's at all. I purposely had them mount my tires on my truck white lettering in. To me, it looks cheap.

I like the look of phase plugs though.

Do not care about the logo that much but the aluminum is sweet!! I own 4 TC2000 drivers that are aluminum so I have a bias.
post #78 of 95
John, is it actual paint you would use on the cone? I would prefer the look of the aluminum but, with a black anodizing. I thought I read that your PR's where going to be designed to look like the drivers. When will this be available?

Thanks,
Tom
post #79 of 95
Thread Starter 
Tom,
I wrote in on the aespeakers.com forum to ask when the matching prs would be ready to see if it was worth it to wait on my order. Simon responded that John said it would still be awhile before they are ready.
post #80 of 95
I am another who will certainly be interested when John's PR's come out to match my AV15's.
post #81 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lop_posse View Post

Tom,
I wrote in on the aespeakers.com forum to ask when the matching prs would be ready to see if it was worth it to wait on my order. Simon responded that John said it would still be awhile before they are ready.

Thanks for the info!
post #82 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_E_Janowitz View Post

There really is no similarity between our cone/logo and the eD. They have a cheap Chinese made poly cone that is made to look like aluminum and hot stamped with a black logo. Our cones are hand spun in California from US sourced 5052 aluminum. We then sand them by hand to give a 220grit brushed finish and apply a 2part process to give them a matte finish. The logos are then masked off on the dustcaps and sprayed with a clear gloss finish. What you see for the logo is essentially just the aluminum itself without being dulled down to the matte finish that the rest of the cone has. It is a very subtle effect. In some light it is barely noticeable. In other light it stands out much more. Those who don't want logos can request the woofer to be made without them. If you want your own custom logo you can request that as well. We can also paint cones and dustcaps to any color desired for those who don't want the aluminum finish.

John

Thanx for the explanation. I didn't know you had those other options as well. Options are good!

I like the PRs the way they are. They don't look like active drivers and take up less box volume than if they were dished.
post #83 of 95
Thread Starter 
So problems

I got my box all painted and mounted my drivers and lugged the box upstairs with a dolly(pics coming). I plugged it in to my system for a test fire and nothing. I had the gain real low so I turned it up half way and still nothing. Past halfway the signal light came on and the sub pretty much just rattled. All the way up and the rattling got a little louder. I walked over to the sub and the sound was coming from the driver. I put my hand on the cone and rattling stopped and had a faint bass signal. Not enough to feel the air with my hand. I tried xlr and 1/4 inch for input, bridged and one channel output, no change. Am I not getting enough signal from my receiver? If so why the rattling? I don't have a hpf yet but the cone isn't even moving, let alone exceeding xmax. My signal chain is as follows:

Computer itunes -> optical toslink -> onkyo 605 -> rca to xlr cable -> behringer ep2500 -> 12ga copper -> binding posts on sub

Help me AVS you're my only hope.
post #84 of 95
Might be something with the output from the Onkyo not being enough--I recall reading about that on various threads mentioning the Behringer. Maybe search for MIC2200 posts or that Cleanbox
post #85 of 95
Plug another speaker (that you know works great) in place of your subwoofer, for example, one of your L/R towers or whichever. If you still get the same rattle, you know it's not your subwoofer driver. If the rattle stops and you get bass, then you know it's the sub driver.
post #86 of 95
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip Looneybomber. I plugged the sub cable into one of my towers and I got the same problem of having to turn the gain up all the way just to hear the bass. The bass was clean though, no rattling. It appears that I have two problems: not enough signal getting to my amp and rattling that appears to be coming from the dust cap. I will address the signal issue first. My buddy lent me a line mixer that he said should help boost the signal. If that works it looks like I need a new piece of equipment to boost the signal. I know a clean box would work but I would like to find something that also could act as a hpf to kill two birds with one stone. I also plan on upgrading my receiver in the next year to something with pre-outs. I don't know if that could help my signal problem as well.
post #87 of 95
The MIC2200 seems to fit the bill and it is priced right.
post #88 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lop_posse View Post

I also plan on upgrading my receiver in the next year to something with pre-outs. I don't know if that could help my signal problem as well.

Your AVR does not LFE pre-amp outs? Were you meaning it doesn't have balanced outputs just unbalanced (RCA) outputs?


Quote:
Originally Posted by robertcharles View Post

The MIC2200 seems to fit the bill and it is priced right.

But can it adjust the output level? I know it can function as a subsonic filter, but I didn't know if it had a way of increasing the output level to better match the input level of the EP2500
post #89 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

But can it adjust the output level? I know it can function as a subsonic filter, but I didn't know if it had a way of increasing the output level to better match the input level of the EP2500

Yes it can
post #90 of 95
we had some issues with the dustcap adhesive so that could be an issue with the driver. They were fine here when tested, but apparently the epoxy didn't have the flexibility that it was supposed to and was very brittle. In shipping we had a couple that came apart even though they tested fine. That could explain the rattling as you mention. Give us a call and I'll get it taken care of.

John
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