In user you only get red and blue. In the sm you get all 3 colors.
The shimming op messes quite substantially with the geometry, which is the green. You gotta go in and redo the green so that the outer areas are consistent with the test patterns in terms of the geometry, then reconverge the red and blue on a more permanent basis than the user conv.
The sm conv also allows you to send in your OWN pattern! The user does not, you're stuck with those too hot, too thick grid lines. In the sm you can send in the AVIA grids for SD, and HD DVE grids for HD.
The HD DVE overscan pattern is not just good for measuring overscan, it's also excellent for redoing your geometry. There's also a circlehatch grid on HD DVE that is valuable for convergence, with the lowered light levels that happen automatically in the sm in the conv menu.
I hope you used the Cantilever Technique for your optical focusing. Your electrostatic focusing should not need redoing because of the shimming op, but it's always good to trim it up now and then, watching VERY carefully that you don't reach for any of the Screen trimpots on the Focus Block by mistake.
On this vintage a unit, you gotta watch out for the edges being brighter than the middle on the sides because of the aging footprint when you recenter your red and blue images via the crosshairs, which become uncentered when you add the blocks. If virgin phospors get involved at the side edges by re-aiming the images on the CRT faces, and all of a sudden you notice the left and right edges are showing brighter edges there, you gotta recenter to where you started via the crosshairs on your CRT faces, then recenter the red and blue mechanically instead, by altering the angle at which they hit the screen. Doesn't take much on a 510, but my 73" required that I change the angle by loosening up my outer screws by about 3/4" each on the red and blue, allowing those guns to fall backwards a bit on that side - gotta also loosen up the inner screws on the red and blue guns just a bit, to allow this to happen without breaking the pot metal casings of the CRTs - re-aiming them and thus recentering them mechanically. This kept my images where they were on the CRT face, which preserves the aging footprint and keeps it in place. While still allowing the recentering of the images for correct superimposition of all 3 upon each other, but mechanically rather than electronically.
Since I had no aging footprint at the time I did this on mine, I later went in and improved on how much of my CRT faces actually are in play and seen by the viewscreen. But this is not usually possible on a set with advanced years on it, tho the pix they are capable at that age are still breathtaking -
Doing this op on your set should not only give you substantially more picture to watch out at the edges - as you saw with 5% now rather than the OOB 10% of before - it will also allow you greater resolution because of the increased amount of picture taking up the same amount of space as before, on your viewscreen.
There are copious amounts of info on this at my Don't Dump your CRT RPTV! thread, plus recent screenshots of my fully shimmed set in action. I didn't run them here because this is a Pioneer thread, but you're welcome to see what's possible with your set, which is also CRT RPTV -http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17543352