Originally Posted by tpaxadpom
Congratulations on your results! Too bad pictures can not do the justice.
A few comments:
Looking at your greyscale it seems like you may want to try raising blue cutoff a bit. I think the reason you've got such a high contrast ratio is because Spider colorimeter is not accurate at low light. If you have Eye-One LT/2 laying around and free time, take some measurements and post your HCFR file here. It would be interesting to compare the results. I used to own Eye One 2 and replaced it later with DPT94 and never looked back.
Comparing the prior and after pictures posted here it looks like your mechanical focus was off and Mr. Bob raised the sharpness quite a bit.
Just for fun I'm attaching some of my calibration files.
I use pro mode on my pioneer elite as it allows to me to get rid of false contouring of STD mode. Though STD was used initially to get the set calibrated to 2.22 average gamma and then using greyscale controls in user menu calibrated the pro mode. I also attached calibration file with correction applied to greyscale on PC (PRO mode on Pioneer) and PS3 in RGB mode over HDMI with Pure digital enabled (STD mode on Pioneer). Basically color decoder is out of the picture and therefore no way to control color/tint(not needed really) minus sharpness control (that kind of sucks). I found it's the best to use excel calculator for color adjustments where primaries can be entered to calculate secondary targets (available in calibration thread). Color errors are minimal in RGB mode with Pure Digital enabled (though it's hard to judge with only colorimeter in hands). BTW I keep the screen shield on my Pioneer and it's tinted, so I loose about 20% of light output. I tried recommended 30-40ftL range but it's way too bright for me as I watch my tv with light turned off.
Thanks, I appreciate the comments. I know this is what everyone says about their sets, but I can tell you that it really looks great after Mr. Bob's work and final (never final) touchups. I still want to get primaries alittle tighter, well green in particular, I think blue is where it needs to be (thanks again to Bob) and red, for these sets is excellent.
These Hitachies only have Blue CUT no Blue DRV, so once you get it close on the low end anything you do on the high end really affect the low end. I have it at one click adjustment either way (like Bob would say), but I'll keep trying to get it closer.
I'll take some reading with the Eye-one, thus We, LastButNotLeast and I, already did some comparisons between the Spyder and the Eye-one, and if you give the Spyder enough time to read, the differences are minor, at least with my SpyderII.
Another thing to consider on my set; I do not have any external processor, all the adjustments are directly from the set and the Hitachi's electronics, at one time or another I've considered adding a Lumagen or the likes for gamma and color adjustment but the itch hasn't been bad enough I guess.
Your numbers are great, although with an external processor, not easy, but easier to obtain, nonetheless outstanding.