Originally Posted by Angelo M
I pulled the front screen of my ws-65813, all this shimming stuff has me willing to give it a try.
Did you pull the top half of your set to raise your CRT cage? With the top half on, it looks like no clearance with the cage frame and black styro from the top half. Just wondering how you slipped your shims in there. Looks like 3 inches will put your crt cage even with where the styro flares out to the screen.
I dont want to trim any of the stryo off, I think it helps with internal reflections, I dont really get any halo-ing in dark scene with this set.
I can't see how, if I lift the top half of the set, how I can put it back on once the CRT cage has been raised, esp 3inches. because the top half has to be dropped in then slid horz to get the top even with the bottom. How did you do it?
I looked down inside my crt to look for burn in around the perimeter to see if I would have problems expanding the image out. Couldn't see much of anything even with a bright flashlight. I guess I'll be ok, when I bought the set used it had 5% overscan around all sides.
I guess it wouldn't be safe healthwise to turn the set on and look into the CRT to check for burn-in around the edges, with x-ray warnings on the lens barrels? Plus I need a way to keep the front screen power button wiring harness etc connected with the screen removed to power it up
There might be a better way, but here's how I did it:
1. Remove the front panel, and free up some slack by removing the wires from those white ties (I think there were two--one by red & one by blue). The slack is needed when you raise the assembly.
2. If you're doing 3 inches, use pliers to slightly bend the side of the metal tray (bulkhead?) in on both sides--only needed towards the front corner on each side. Before you do this, you may want to try lifting the assembly first, and see exactly where it hits. I didn't trim any styro.
3. It might be easier to remove the top half, but I think I just removed the screen (I don't have the protective screen, so removing the screen is much easier than it was before).
4. My set of four wood blocks ended up being four .75" pieces each that I glued together, which I'm glad I did because it would have been too hard to try to stack pieces on top of each other for the two corners near the front (hands do not fit up in there). Plus, individual pieces would be hard to control, and keep them from moving around.
5. I needed another person to put the shims (from the back) in while I lifted the tray (from the front). This is after removing the four screws that hold the assembly in place. Once the screws are removed, there is a nub? on each side that keeps the tray from slipping off. Lifting the tray is awkward--I used a thick allen wrench and hooked it through the hole in the side of the tray towards the front, and the other hand lifted the tray from the back. Doing one side at a time, it went like this: lift one side--the other side stays locked with its nub; place first block just far enough in, so that it is on the angled section just far enough in that the end of the block touches the "corner" where the angled section goes horizontal (it acts like a brake, and holds the block); do the same for the other side, then immediately push that second block all the way to the front corner (used two wooden paint stirrers to guide it up, and kept it tight on the edge)--so, at this point you have two blocks in (on opposing corners); immediately slide the third block in place behind the second in the same angle-locked position as the first block; then do the same on the other side--guide the first block up into the corner, place fourth block in the angle-locked position. With all four blocks in, the assembly shouldn't really slide, but be careful. That's it for my helper--the rest I did on my own.
6. I used two 4" #10 wood screws from Home Depot (one on each side towards the back), and secured the assembly again. The back shims don't really move and are easy to get to if they do, but the front shims are a pain to get to if they move too far (they kept turning on me) Once the assembly is raised, you can reach in with your fingers from the front and reach the front shims--but, not much. So, I used my fingers and slid the two front shims back down towards the back slightly, then used a couple of wood screws through the front (same holes as the back 4" #10 screws--just on the front side). This keeps the blocks from slipping off, and allows me to adjust them if they rotate. Ideally, you would want to pre-drill holes through the two front blocks, and use them same 4" #10 screws on the front--that would both secure the shims & the assembly. But, I didn't want to pull everything back out to do this--plus I don't think it's really necessary.
7. Using two solid, nickel? door stops (Home Depot) that have rubber on both sides, I ended up barely sliding in the tips in between the tray and the front shims. They are angled & not straight because there isn't enough room to be straight without raising the tray too much. I used metal door stops because I thought that the rubber ones might flex over time, and move the picture.
That seems like a lot, but it's really not. I'm not handy at all (lucky I didn't lose any fingers sawing my blocks), so if I can do it, I'm sure you and everyone else can without too much difficulty.
Let me know if you have any more questions.