Originally Posted by joikd
I just wanted to say that what Mr Bob told me here was huge for me. After removing the doorstops (no extra piece of wooden paint stirrer needed either), and sliding the array up (higher)--this eliminated all of my red and green scheimpflug issues, which were caused by tilting the array with the doorstops (and leaving them there). Using washers on blue cleared up the scheimpflug issue that was origianally there before the shimming. I did have to use the centering magnets for all 3 (RGB) to lower the picture after removing the doorstops because using VSTA in course green (which had to be cranked way up) caused some weird looking thin lines at the top edge. I checked to see if I needed to adjust astigmatism, but, luckily, it didn't need it. So, once again, Mr Bob saved the day! Thanks so much--I really appreciate all of your help and patience (I'm pretty thickheaded sometimes)!
Keeping the horizontal plane exactly how it is OOB has caused me no sch issues. The doorstops are ONLY for sliding the array forward and back on the existing plane, just as it is. I don't change any angles.
Nor do I change any VSTA or the centering mags.
VSTA is known to cause problems when you alter it to near its extremes, and with the doorstops you only need to alter it a tiny bit afterwards, not more than 50-100 numbers away from where it was OOB, preferably keeping it to 50 changed numbers or less.
I don't change the centering mags because doing this can change the astig magnet influence and cause you to have to redo that whole astig alignment. This is one thing the manufacturers always get right as rain, if your set is equipped with those astig magnet sets in the first place, and as such I like to leave it totally alone.
So I kept mine as they are and used HSTA to change the positioning of the image on my CRTs for recentering the image on the r and b guns. This forces the HSTA value to around plus and minus 230 respectively - started around plus/minus 50 - but that does not seem to insert any non-linearities between points, so I am leaving that alone. On the Pios you gotta worry when you put things too far out from OOB settings in both Coarse and Fine/point, but evidently that's not a worry on the Mit's. So I am keeping those regs there, even tho the ideal thing to do would be to alter them with HSTA to zero and realign the astig. Just not into doing unneeded alignments these days, too much going on that needs my attention.
In your case, the vertical positioning can be done by sliding your array forward and back until it's just right according to the HD DVE overscan grid, then inserting the doorstops to keep the array there until it can be screwed down tightly, whereupon you can remove them. That's what I did. You get it where you want it with the OOB settings and screw it down, then if you need to fine tweak that vertical positioning later you're so close it won't screw anything up in the sm because it's not going anywhere near any extremes.
Also, for anyone using a Mits. template--my understanding is that using the Avia crosshatch pattern with the template is for SD (480) only, and that for HD (1080i) you have to rely on the internal Mits. pattern without using the Avia pattern. Well, I have a hard enough time as it is using both the template and the Avia pattern (I have no idea how Mr Bob can do it by eye), so without the Avia pattern, I was in for a big struggle. But, after trying many things (and failing), I managed to get the new version of PowerDVD to strech the Avia crosshatch pattern perfectly using the "linear stretch" option. EDIT: In case it wasn't clear, this "fix" was for HD (1080i).
Using the internal grid on any of these CRT RPTVs is usually the worst thing you can do for the final supertightening. It's OK for geometry and for getting the point sys close, but their grids are usually too thick and too hot - too super bright - to accurately match up to real world video light level content. As such getting it perfect for the internal grid makes it really messy on real world video.
So I use the Accupel for my supertightening. Its super thin grid is nailed right at 50IRE, where you have the AVERAGE light level of all video material that is being shown at videophile settings of contrast 50 or below.
Both grids show up, but on a Mit you go with the dimmer grid beneath the super monster internal grid whenever you have the choice, which is at each point. The internal grid will show to be off, but who cares. It's the grid I have sent in that counts.
If the only other HD grid I had was the DVE circlehatch, I would dim the contrast down as much as necessary to give me thin, dim lines to use. This can be done on a Mit by setting the User contrast down way low and THEN going into the sm section, where that setting is carried into the sm. All user settings are carried into sm, in the conv sm section.
For other brands I would do whatever it takes to have a nice thin NOT superbright grid to use. If that took lowering my contrast in user, like in the Mits's, fine. On the Pios I'd temporarily alter the sm Contrast reg value. On Hit I'd lower the DCUCONT and DCUBRT to half their hex factory value, in their sm. This lowers the light level of their internal grids, which would allow me to use THEIR internal grid for the supertightening. The internal grids would then show up only half as bright - and thus half as thick - as their OOB sm settings have them show up. Hitachi's user conv grid is excellent when not too bright, and allows for use even in User point alignment only - no need to even go into DCAM! It stays where put even after leaving sm, unlike Mit and Pio's user grids, where any corrections you make in User vaporize upon leaving the sm. Hitachi's user corrections stay.