Input lag wars!, post your input lag results of your LCD display here for reference - Page 114

The problem with the LG I just returned was not a synchronization issue between the sound and the picture, it was with "input lag" . . . the reason for this thread. Input lag is a delay from when, say, my xbox outputs a picture, and the TV displays the picture. MAN the LG was HORRIBLE!!! I have an old Sharp Aquos LCD, that has less than 15 ms lag. I am now delaying any purchase of a new LED TV because of the lag issues.

Can anyone help me on my Westinghouse 3280? Its a 32" native 1080p panel but I can tell that something is up. The tv was tested here on page 109 and I picked one up cheap.

I normally use a 37" Westinghouse W37w1 monitor that is ancient, and also too big for my desk. I wanted something smaller and thinner. I picked up this set because it appears to have 4:4:4.

I have tried the output via a DVI to HDMI connector, and I have tried it from my Nvidia's micro-HDMI to standard HDMI connector. I have turned the sharpness of the set all the way down, and the output still looks terrible.

My 37" looks like a laptop display. This, no matter what setting i choose, looks like it is scaled text. Thats the best way to describe it. The TV display says 1920x1080 60hz, but everyting looks soft, like its being scaled somehow. If I dare touch the sharpness display on the TV the halos on text get profoundly worse, right now sharpness is set at its lowest level to minimize haloing on text.

Can Anyone help me out here? I have no problem at all buying a better set, and SOMEWHERE around here I have a monoprice DVI to HDMI cable...but I don't think that is it, this is obviously something else.

For what its worth, lag on this TV is as good as it was on my 37" 6 year old Westy monitor and its as good as the LCD 24" monitor I was using as a temp solution but something is wrong on this 32" set. FOR ONE THING when I scroll webpages, text becomes unreadable. it breaks up like I am not seeing a 60hz refresh rate. Another thing is that as I type these letters its like the letter appears and then a split second later "gets sharper"....like, again, some kind of processing is happening.

Anyone know?

I desperately need a 32" 1080p set that just works. I dont care what it costs at this point. if I have to go back to my 37" Westy I will, but I thought this set was one of the ones that accepted a native 1080p signal. Is there a custom resolution I can try via the Nvidia control panel?

Help.

Thanks.

Have you checked your graphics card control panel?

Yeah, I was trying everything I could think of.....turning off sending audio via HDMI, turning on CyPBr444 mode, etc.....but someone else in the LCD forum posted some EDID fix I need to do with my Nvidia card.

In a nutshell, the screen looks like its at 1920x1080...but fuzzy. black on white text, like a google search, is almost unreadable...hence it looks like its scaled.
Note, this is my first new "TV AS A MONITOR" since I plugged my SHARP 55" LED set into my computer via HDMI to HDMI (my nvidia card has a mini HDMI output)....and that just worked, bang, first time....

I turned the sharpness all the way down to 0 on the SET....that helped a BIT, but it still has the halos and softness. Do you remember when we all used CRT displays and there was a SHARPNESS setting that if you turned it up you got the halos around letters, etc?

That is how the display looks.

I'm back to using my 37" Westy (a true 1080p monitor) now but had really wanted to go with the 32" LED....I may try to hunt down my DVI to HDMI monitor cable, see if that helps, and then try that EDID tweak. I will say my TV seems to be sending a SD/HD signal and NOT a PC signal according to the drivers.

I was going to set up a custom 1080p resolution but honestly it got into timings and such and I was like "Eh, now I'm delving into areas I shouldn't HAVE to do".....

Havnt been on this thread for a while. what are now the current 32-37 inch with the least input lag now a days?

I suggest you check if your TV is capable of displaying 4:4:4 chroma with certainity. I redirect you to this thread. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1381724

Hi,I´m going to buy new tv which will be used mostly for gaming,so my main priority is input lag.
I´m thinking about Panasonic TX-L32E30E(TC-L32E30)/Panasonic TX-L32DT30E(TC-L32DT30) and Panasonic TX-P42G30E (TC-P42G30).

At first i´m going to ask,is there any differences in input lag between E30 and DT30 ?E30 should have input lag around 10 ms,so DT30 should be same,but I´m not sure.

Second question,which have smaller input lag,those LCD LED Panasonics,or the Plasma ones? As i said,the E30 should have 10 ms,and i heard that G30 have about 20 ms,so is that true,or not?

Thanks,and have a nice day

I'm looking for a 22-24 inch TV with little to no input lag. It needs to have HDMI, component, and composite (For PS3, 360, Wii, PS2, and Dreamcast). Does such a TV exist?

Things have changed a lot since you've gone. Hardly any test results, or discussions of test results, are being posted anymore

Off the top of my head, these TV's are available for sale and have low input lag:

- The lower end Panasonics (U3, E3 etc) IPS-alpha panels used in the 32" and 37" sizes.

- LG xxLK450. IPS or VA panel lottery, but both test well.

- Samsung LN-xxD550. Samsung S-PVA panel.

- Sony xxEX720, (high end $$)

- JVC BC3000 BlackCrystal series. IPS panel, 1 to 2 frames lag, 16-32ms.

- Westinghouse LD-3280 & VR-3730 & VR-3225 models (VR-3225 uses samsung S-PVA and looks nicer than the LD-3280 model). Cheap budget choices but the VR series works very well with PC.

- RCA xxLA45RQ. VA panel. example models: 32LA45RQ, 37LA45RQ, 40LA45RQ etc. 1 to 1 1/2 frames of lag, around 27ms.

Well, I decided to go out and test a few TVs for input lag.

The first is the 24" RCA LED25A45RQ. I had an average of 40-50ms (2-3 frames) of input lag. I took this one back to Sears.

The second is the 22" Samsung UN22D5003. I tested this out with the PC Mode on which is supposedly better than game mode. It had about 35ms (about 2 frames) of input lag. I haven't decided if I'm keeping it yet because the lag is still kinda noticeable.

Can you describe your test setup? I.e., flatpanels timer or SMTT, 1080p res or another res, CRT or laptop screen, etc.

I hooked up each TV and my monitor to my PC and put them in clone mode. I then ran a timer and took a pic of both at the same time. 1080p was the resolution. I used an ASUS VH222H for comparison (which has 10ms of input lag). I measured the difference between the TV and monitor multiple times, found the average, then added 10ms.

Edit: I used an HDMI cable for each and turned off all post processing stuff. Not sure if you need anymore details or not.

Question:

Is it at all within the realm of possibility to run any of the input lag timers on a smartphone, hook up the smartphone to any HDTVs of your choice, and be able to get reliable input lag numbers from such a simple setup? An app of some type, or a simple smtt timer running off of android or something.

Considering no one has mentioned this, or as far as I can tell even attempted such a test, this is probably a stretch, but I wanted to ask anyway....

Nope, that's all I wanted to know. As you probably guessed, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any external factors that could skew your results. But looks like you covered all the bases, so your numbers are accurate. Thanks for sharing your results.


I've always wondered this myself. I have an Asus Transformer tablet with mini-HDMI output. From a "bulk" perspective, using something like a tablet or smartphone is way better than lugging around a PC + CRT monitor.

Anyways, functionally speaking, I don't see anything wrong with using a smartphone. However, its an untested domain -- so things like scaler delays (if any), frame buffer delays (if any), cadence manipulation (if any), and other things are a huge unknown.

If it were me, I would do both a smartphone test and a SMTT test (or find someone else's SMTT results), and compare the results. If there are any differences, apply the offset to your future tests. Basically the same general concept as those that use a laptop LCD for lag testing -- where they add 10 ms to their results to offset the native lag found on laptop LCDs.

Do you happen to know if the LD-3280 has any LED bleed around the edges? I tried a LD-2240 out Sunday and was incredibly disappointed with the LED bleed which included a dark blue colour, extremely narrow viewing angles, flimsy base, and terrible PQ. I was unable to access any information on the firmware but, I would venture to guess it was a TN panel which really shouldn't have surprised me given that it was a 22". What did surprise me was that everything looked bad on it even after investing a great deal of time in the adjustments. 420p and 1080p DVDs (via a 420p player and a 1080p player) looked bad with a HDMI connection and a Component connection as did the VGA signal. There was a fuzziness that refused to go away and, it was impossible to remove enough contrast via just the the TV's settings.

The reason I am asking about the LD-3280 is because I am willing to give Westinghouse another chance but, this has left a negative impression when it comes to LED sets. Unfortunately, "affordable" LCD sets are hard to find right now given they were apparently clearanced out in November/December of last year.


Note: If my post from this point on needs to be split off into it's own thread, I am fine with that as this thread is really about lag on various units rather than a selection thread. I'm only bringing up the following information though because it's relevant to why I was asking about the LD-3280 and someone is bound to ask me at least some of the following information. I also would like to apologize for the length of this post but, I am trying to be as thorough as possible.


For some background,

What I am replacing and why:

I am replacing an Orion/Toshiba 34HF85 that I have had since 2006. I spent a good amount of time in the service menu for it last year but, it still requires the PC to run in at least a 1600x900 resolution with a DPI of 150% and to have a very bland/washed out/foggy look to it via a DVI>HDMI in order to be able to clearly read text. Obviously that is just unacceptable so, I am looking to replace it with something that can serve as both an actual TV and a monitor.


What I am looking for:

34" is really to large for the bedroom anyway so, I am looking for anything in the 24"-32" size range that is less than $300.00 and can pass 4:4:4 tests and that lacks image deterioration from a minimal point of view shift. Ideally, I don't think I want to go past a 27" since the pixel density is already going to be rather spread on it compared to something like a 22" to 24" set. I know several of you use a 32" set or larger for the PC but I just don't think it would work in my current application. Delay/lag is an issue as I intend to use it as a primary monitor, play PC and console games on the set, as well as watch movies. All of those things are about equal in priority so, I know it's going to be tough to accomplish at this budget if not flat out impossible. I would also like to avoid the typical pitfalls of TVs like black crush, image processing features that have no way of being turned off, etc.


Available viewing distance(s):

The minimum distance from the bezel to my eyes is between 2.5' and 3'. This is sort of a traditional location of sitting at your desk and at the keyboard. There is a maximum distance of 7' from the bezel to my eyes if I roll my chair back to where it is touching the futon in it's upright position. It would be roughly 9' of distance from the bezel to my eyes if I were sitting on the futon. The average viewing distance with the futon splayed out into a bed would be between 8' to 9' if I were laying down. In other words, I have a huge range of viewing distance I can work with but, I would prefer to sit in my chair when I am using the PC or console gaming rather than sitting on the futon as the chair is far more supportive and comfortable. The distances involving the futon should be factored in though as I will often lay down to watch TV to take a nap or late at night if I can't get to sleep. However, the distances involving the futon are really only relevant to watching movies.


Lighting:

There is no lighting in the room at night if I am using the TV as I despise the impact it has on the screen as well as the glare as I am used to a glass screen. There is also no bias lighting at night. There is however some level of bias lighting during the day from the ambient light that seeps in through the window shades and curtains from the windows behind where the TV is located. That lighting qualifies as far more of an orange/copper/beige than white though due to the colour of the curtains. I wouldn't say the room is dark during the day but, I wouldn't call it well lit either if the lights are off.


What I have seen:

Westinghouse VR-3730 (37")

I saw it in person Monday but, it's obviously a bit large for my needs as well as being over my budget. I was thrilled by the fact that the picture didn't change as I looked it at from angles that I wouldn't be able to mimic in my bedroom. The video playing didn't look the best but, I'm fairly positive most of the issues could be taken care of in the TV's settings given that what stood out most of all on the showroom floor was the oversaturated colour.

LG 32LK450 (32")

I saw it in person Monday but, it's out of my price range since the current price is $375ish. I didn't look at in depth due to the pricing. I just took a passing glance at it as I was looking at how much the PQ fell apart on surrounding sets as I lowered my field of vision.


What I am considering:

Westinghouse VR-3225 (32")

I know that Newegg has the VR-3225 for around $270.00 (currently $245) but, their return policy and the fact I have never seen one in person makes me incredibly hesitant on making the purchase with them. I am also concerned about the pixel density for a 1080p 32" set when it comes to PC usage.

Westinghouse LD-2680 (26")

Wal*mart has a 26" Westinghouse LD-2680 online for $207.00 but, looking over the manual at the manufacturer's site indicates that it uses an external A/C adapter. That could be an unwarranted concern though. The manual also points out that you can access the serial number and the firmware number via the TV's menu which gives me some hope that this isn't just another TN panel masquerading as a TV. However, it's entirely possible they used the LD-3280's manual and only changed the few pages that they needed to. I would feel a lot more comfortable selecting this model if it were actually on display somewhere locally but, it isn't.


What i don't want to do:

I really don't want to keep purchasing sets and returning them especially since the returns stem from the fact I am unable to do any research on certain models because, they are either not on display or there is absolutely no information available online about them other than at the manufacture's website. It's rather difficult to make an informed purchase when there is no information to go off of. I really want to draw the line right now when it comes to returns and not make anymore of them barring some horrible manufacturer's defect or warranty issue. I don't ever want to be one of those customers that just keeps purchasing a set and then returning them.

Allow me to contribute....I just purchased a 3280 on a whim, and can comment. I own an Nvidia card, and I had to do the EDID registry hack to get the nvidia card to treat my display like a Monitor. Without doing that, the image was always scaled (Unless you want to run a VGA cable, but who wants to do that in this day and age). Once I did the hack, the display became a 1080p monitor for less than $300 at 32", light and LED backlit.

As a computer monitor for gaming and web surfing, I'd be perfectly happy with the 3280 once I did the fix. It does NOT have any flashlighting or edge bleed that I can see immediately, although some say that comes with time. However, the speakers emit a kind of white noise...even with the volume at zero...OR there is a small fan inside this unit keeping the LED block cool (LED's dont get hot but sometimes the controllers do)..........which may or may not be annoying or distracting. There may be a 60mm fan in there, hard to say...if there is not, then the unit emits a kind of low hushed white noise....may or may not be a problem.

For less than $300 at BBuy online, I would probably put this unit up with other super inexpensive 1080p units.

If you need panel information I can get it, errr, if someone tells me how to do that. I used Phoenix EDID extractor to do the nvidia output fix...

I doubt I would hear the noise over the Hyper 212 Evo and the other fans. Thank you for pointing that out though especially about the volume being all the way down as I never use the speakers on a TV. I'm also glad to hear you didn't have any of the issues I experienced with the LD-2240. I just never expected a 22" anything to be that bad.

I performed the EDID bypass for my Orion/Toshiba 34HF85 so it won't be any issue to do it for another display. I didn't bother doing it for the LD-2240 because of all it's other issues. The 34HF85 failed the 4:4:4 test but anyone that's been around knows that TV was going to and it was just more out of curiosity to look at the EDID procedure.

Going by the manual for the LD-2680, you should be able to see the firmware version your LD-3280 is running in the TV menu. For some reason, Westinghouse doesn't have the LD-3280's manual online. Anyway if you enter the setup menu, there should be a set of submenus that comes up. If you click on the one that says version the screen will display your serial number (don't post that obviously) and the firmware version. if you post the firmware version, we should be able to dig up the panel info provided the firmware is named in the same fashion that the VR series was. if you need a visual guide of what you're looking for in the TV's menus look at page 61 of the LD-2680 manual. (I was unable to post a link due to my post count but, the manual can be found on Westinghouse's site).

BTW, did you ever resolve the "bland colour" issue you had with your LD-3280?


*edit* Sigh Newegg has dropped the price of the VR-3225 down to $245. If only they had a better return policy . . .

Looking to get a new TV or monitor for gaming purposes. I play a lot of fighting games, so it must be less than 1 frame of input delay. I already know about the ASUS VH236H, but I was hoping to find something larger, like a 27". Anyone have any recommendations?

Just a followup, I decided to box up and return the Westy 3280. Unfortunately, even after the registry fix, something about the text didn't look right. It was obviously throwing up a native signal but there was something off about it, maybe it no longer passed 4:4:4?

I decided it was actually a downgrade, and wasn't worth the $300. I went back to my 37" westy and will wait for it to die

Sorry I could not help you further with the panel information, but I think someone called that out earlier in this thread (or search on 3280, it might be in a separate thread here on AVS).

That's OK, I appreciate the input you had to offer.

I seem to recall reading something about the panel in the LD-3280 recently either on here or over at [H]ard|Forum. It's hard to keep track of the LD-3280 conversations as they are constantly cross referenced between threads at both boards. It also doesn't help that the VR-3225 is the preffered 32" model from Westinghouse. I understand why though as the LD-3280 is still relatively "untested" and, is limited to what you and Thepoohcontinuum have found. That's why I have been hesitant to drop the $310 on it with tax and shipping.

The only thing I recall for certain about the LD-3280 is it passed the 4:4:4 test for Thepoohcontinuum, it had the same lag that the VR-3225 has (16-32ms), that you had some colour issues with it, and that Sjetski71 thinks the VR-3225 looks better and is hesitant to add the LD-3280 to the recommend list over at [H]ard|Forum due to the aforementioned colour issue.

Ya, i wouldn't recommend the LD-3280, i don't think you've missed any discussions on it because i've hardly seen any. I've recently seen it in action, and have the other Westinghouse Edge-lit in my office as a display (forget the model # but it is still available). They both have muted colors, visibly less contrast, and a permanent tint to the picture, they appear absolutely identical to my eyes.

Are you sure your local Walmart and BestBuy don't have the VR-3225 in store? Their websites have long since sold out, but it doesn't account for local store leftover stock, you may get lucky. It really does have a great picture, and for $250-$300 it is shocking how well it competes with $400-$500 models. I'm not saying it is perfect, but you certainly get a lot for the money. If you are not willing to chance it, then i'd recommend the LG 32LK450 when it goes on sale, from a good merchant that is.

Racer, can't remember if i saw you there already, but have you joined our Hardforum TV monitor discussion yet? All related discussions, including price talk, are allowed, and welcome

I also mirror the thoughts about muted colors. During my mini review of the 3280, the colors of the 3280 were just bland and lifeless. And for some bizarre reason, the Color and Tint settings were locked out, so I couldn't make any adjustments. Instead, I resorted to making color adjustments through my video card settings. But even then, the PQ was just "boring" to look at (compared to my S-IPS LG displays).

The closest Best Buy does not have the VR-3225 in stock for sure as I was there both Sunday and Monday. It along with several other TVs are marked as deleted items despite their website insinuating otherwise. I went round and round with them about the issue the past couple of days so I would honestly rather avoid them if at all possible. To be fair, the VR-3225 wasn't listed as being available in any shape of form but, other sets were.

I'm no stranger to the workings and shortcomings of the POS (point of sale) system and the living hell that is known as inventory as I did a 7 year stint in retail management. The overwhelming flaws in their inventory system, their inability to get any of the models I was looking at that are listed online as available but really aren't, and their unwillingness to work with me on the price of another set to compensate for all of that has been an overwhelming negative experience. I personally didn't see what the issue was with marking another set down $50 to $75 was though and, that's coming from someone that followed company policy to the letter 99.99% of the time. At some point you have to do something to resolve a situation that the company created and the customer found themselves in the middle of. I was actually willing to spend more money than the items I was originally looking at online but, they just refused any and all suggestions on how to resolve the issue.

I know my current level of disdain for Best Buy isn't really on topic or asked for but, it just sort of came up.


I have not looked locally at Wal*Mart though. Their website shows that it isn't available locally but, I'll give them a call here in a little bit to see if they have one or if they have another store that does and can work out a store transfer if it's "too far".



I actually saw this model last night next to a 1080p Toshiba last night at Best Buy. I don't recall the Toshiba's model number. Both would have met the demands of the viewing angle issue but I didn't look at either in depth as the Toshiba was on sale for $350ish and the LG was on sale for $370ish.

My only concern with risk is Newegg's return policy. I'm happy to take a risk on a set but not in shipping/restocking fees and other nonsense due to a manufacturer's defect or because, something turned out to be unacceptable PQ wise. Unfortunately when it comes to Audio/Video all the research in the world on a make/model can be tossed right out the window as soon as you have it setup in your home.



I have not. I don't think I have an account there as I only recently "stumbled" onto that site it as I am rather "green" when it comes to LCDs. The last time I looked at them was when I bought the Orion/Toshiba 34HF85 and CRTs were still better than LCDs PQ wise. I'm sort of trying to play catch up on the advancements in screen technology over the past six years lol. I'll make an account there in a bit as there are a couple of threads I have been lurking about in the past few days including the one you linked to.



Yea, I recall seeing something about the colour and tint being locked out which was bothersome to say the least. Thank you for weighing in as you are sort of the gold standard for the LD-3280 given it's apparently rather limited ownership.


Speaking of panel types, I know the rough ins and outs about blacks, colours, lag, and what not but, I am a bit fuzzy on the issue of viewing angles. I know this is rather off topic to lag so, I will keep it short. I noticed that the Westinghouse LD-2680 has a vertical and horizontal viewing angle of 176 degrees which is the same angle on the LD-3280 and the VR-3225. I was under the impression that only IPS Pro/Alpha panels were able to provide that wide of an angle. I've read that the angle listed is determined on what the manufacturer considers within spec and not what the end user may find acceptable but, beyond that do manufacturer's use different methods of measuring the viewing angle? I just can't see how they would be able to get a S-PVA panel to that wide of angle unless I am missing something.

Just a quick update, Wal*Mart no longer carries Westinghouse in store so they didn't even look it up in the system. I guess retail is a vastly different place since 2009. I know the economy is certainly different so you would think people would "go the extra mile" these days but, I guess not. Oh well.

I thought the black levels on the set bested my older 37" CCFL Westy monitor, but that is hardly surprising. On the other hand the contrast was also impossible to set properly, so everything was either too dark or too bright. Muted Colors? Hard to tell because I'm using this as a desktop monitor, the only TV i watch on it comes from the internet and picture quality is not a primary concern, for games it looked plenty colorful...(with most games absurd color pallets).....input lag with a mouse was imperceptible.

Ultimately, text didn't look as good as it does on my 37" westy even after the EDID fix, and that was after adjusting cleartype fonts several times. I just kept noticing that text didn't look right..I saw some red bleed into some black areas, etc....that is what made me wonder if it was a 4:4:4 problem I was setting.

I also could not get the set to accept 1080p/60, it allowed me to choose it but every time the confirmation dialog box to keep 1080p/60 appeared it immediately went back to 1080p/59....ultimately I said "Why am i wrestling with this", and will return it this week to the store.

You might also want to check out Target too. I remember seeing the 3225 sold there as well.

Edit: Doh, from Target's website, they don't even list the 3225 anymore. So I guess they don't sell it anymore.


Correction... the general rule of thumb is that 178/178 is for *-IPS displays. 176/176 is for the newer TN and *VA displays. And anything less than 176/176 is TN.


There isn't a international standard for measuring viewing angle (nor contrast ratios for that matter), so always take the marketing spec with a grain of salt. But the unofficial method used by most manufacturers is to take a spectroradiometer (sp?), put it 1 ft away from the TV, and take contrast measurements at 5 different points on the panel. If the measurements pass a certain contrast ratio, then rotate the TV by x-degrees, and repeat the measurement. Eventually at some steep angle (around 170+ degrees), the contrast ratio will fail to meet a certain threshold (usually 10:1), and that becomes the advertised viewing angle.

If you're a nut like me and like to read panel engineering specification sheets, you'll usually see the above method and results outlined in those documents. For example, this spec sheet (link) is supposedly for the 3280. Page 27+ talks about viewing angle measurements and their setup.

I actually have a lot more to say about viewing angles (ex., effects of anti-glare/glossy coatings, effects of black vs gray, etc). But I've already gone off in a tangent in this thread, and I don't want to be yelled at by the forum police for going off topic .

I know this frame of mind all to well lol. I had it when I first hooked up my PC to my Orion/Toshiba 34HR85 in 2010. I experienced all that last week hence the desire to "retire" it and move on to another product. For all it's flaws I did manage to get a really nice picture on it when it comes to DVDs and consoles but it just hates trying to display PC text.



I also don't wish to incur the wrath of the staff but, I did want to take the opportunity to reply to both of you and to pass along my appreciation for the help. I would also like to extend my apologies for any "derailment" that might have taken place as a result of my posts. I wasn't expecting the conversation to grow to this extent much less happen this rapidly. If the posts need to be split off and I need to be "raked across the coals" I will totally understand.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824116483

Recorded some footage using a mouse emulator on ps3 to see if there would be any huge amounts of input lag. I filmed my hand and the screen I really can only tell a small amount if any I attribute this just to the emulation process. Anyone know what the input lag is on this set? 46" d6000. I notice a lot of lag out of Game mode but extremely smooth mouse movements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Mg1GLjHPbk

Here is the Asus 27, LED backlit, I would get this personally if it was me. This is what I would get if I was getting a monitor for fps & fighting games on PC or PS3.

EDIT: I linked the wrong monitor, fixed.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824236103


- But I am not getting a monitor, I am getting a TV and I am wondering if anyone has any input on this Panasonic TC-L37E3.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CEYQ8wIwAQ